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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > H&R Springs Install DIY (finally)



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  H&R Springs Install DIY (finally)
larryn
03-18-2006
E90 H&R Sport Spring DIY Install

for the left side we remove the 21mm nut and bolt, 10mm control arm sensor and 19mm strut nut.

for the right side we remove the 21mm nut and bolt and the 19mm strut nut.

there is only 1 control arm sensor, that is located...
  #154  
By Glopez5 on 08-11-2012, 03:17 PM
I have an e92 335i, i used this diagram to do my springs. The front springs were pretty easy to use, i followed those instructions and for the most part it was pretty accurate. The rear however i realized is easier if you remove the 21mm near the strut and bring it down from that end. it's much easier and you don't have to worry about the exhaust being in the way.
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  #155  
By DUI Elite on 02-21-2013, 07:13 PM
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Just did this for my fronts today. Ran out of daylight to do the rears.

Just a heads up!

The front springs are literally almost twice as large as the H&R's (I have the sport springs) so compressing the stock spring (in this method) will by far be the hardest part.

Everything else is very straightward and easy.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...1/Video319-HD/

This video made the rear install so much simpler in my opinion. I LOVE ECS TUNING!!!!
Last edited by DUI Elite; 02-27-2013 at 04:27 PM.
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  #156  
By 328wagonxi on 03-01-2013, 01:29 AM
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This is a great thread, I will be using this once I order my h&r springs thanks
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  #157  
By robbs34 on 04-08-2013, 04:01 PM
Somehow your rims changed during your shock install.....
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  #158  
By CWysong on 04-17-2013, 03:48 PM
Silly, basic, and embarrasing question. How the heck do you get the bolts in the suspension to move? After I got the wheel off the only bolt I could remove was the rear bolt holding the bottom of the strut. Nothing else would even budge, no matter how hard I tried. Is there a secret for home gamers, or do I need special shop tools and access to a lift?
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  #159  
By DUI Elite on 04-17-2013, 03:54 PM
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Just a good amount of force
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  #160  
By ellipsis212 on 04-17-2013, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiscottiGelato View Post
I take everything back and have to say that this DIY is no good. Fiddling with spring compressors while the whole suspension is still attached, swinging the whole thing out from under the fender is just BAD!!!!! This sounds MUCH better and MUCH easier.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=11
This. Would've saved me a couple hours!

BTW, it's been 3 years and my Koni FSD/Eibach setup is still killing it on my DD!
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  #161  
By btl1990 on 05-04-2013, 06:21 PM
Bump and a shout out to the OP for the write up. Pretty straight forward DIY that took me 4 hours all the way around. I have a 2006 325i and put the Eibach Pro kit on. Some advice is to grab 3 coils on the front and tighten all the way down. Have a friend put some pressure on the front end assembly and move the strut out from under the car.

On the back, we removed the 2 nuts holding the muffler on. This allowed us to put enough pressure on the muffler to get the bolt out from the carrier. Take your time, drink some beer, and you can easily get this done and save $$$
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  #162  
By larryn on 05-05-2013, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellipsis212 View Post
This. Would've saved me a couple hours!

BTW, it's been 3 years and my Koni FSD/Eibach setup is still killing it on my DD!
Saved a coupe hours? Wow.. When I wrote this DIY 8 year ago, the fronts took me less than a couple hours, with figuring out how to do it, documenting, AND taking these pics. I used this method on numerous friends cars, including the 135i that I traded that e90 330i for, and also on my M3.

Loosening/detaching the control arms virtually guarantees a substantial alignment is needed, whereas this method leaves the geometry pretty darned close to same alignment specs, yet adds some negative camber.

I'm just glad that folks get to see the underpinnings and feel encouraged to take this on themselves still.
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  #163  
By ellipsis212 on 05-06-2013, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Saved a coupe hours? Wow.. When I wrote this DIY 8 year ago, the fronts took me less than a couple hours, with figuring out how to do it, documenting, AND taking these pics. I used this method on numerous friends cars, including the 135i that I traded that e90 330i for, and also on my M3.

Loosening/detaching the control arms virtually guarantees a substantial alignment is needed, whereas this method leaves the geometry pretty darned close to same alignment specs, yet adds some negative camber.

I'm just glad that folks get to see the underpinnings and feel encouraged to take this on themselves still.
Maybe more like "hour." Using a spring compressor inside of the fender well is a total PITA. And FWIW, my alignment was completely insane after doing this. Thanks again for the DIY!
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  #164  
By E90305 on 05-21-2013, 09:54 PM
Just completed this DIY today and now I'm having passenger front side clunking Any idea on what this can be ? I check the end link its tight and the upper mount was on correctly
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  #165  
By my07_335i on 06-17-2013, 05:22 PM
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I finally got around to installing my Eibach prokits and koni fsd's. I tried to do the fronts myself, but the shitty harbor freight spring compressors i had woudln't find under my fender, so i ended up taking it to a shop. Get this:

Paid 600$ for springs and shock install, took the whole day...and I find out that Eibach had included two of the wrong springs in the kit...for the rears, so I had 4 shocks and 2 springs installed for 600$. FML

I tried doing the rears last weekend, tried using the inner bolt like the pictures showed... could NOT get them out from around the exhuast no matter what I tried. Seeing the OUTER bolt makes sense...so I'm gonna try again this weekend...
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  #166  
By cynabel on 11-18-2013, 11:30 AM
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Just finished the rear springs on a 2007 328i sedan. Just to confirm what others have said, I removed the upper end link nut, the nut holding the shock and the OUTTER bolt holding the swing arm (attached to the brake assembly). The brake assembly dropped down and the spring came out no problem. Jacked the brake assembly back up, replaced the swing arm bolt, link nut and shock nut. Done. Watch for the rubber grommet on the brake assembly where the swing arm attaches. It gets kind of jammed when being jacked back up. Use a screwdriver to guide it back in. Keep your jack directly under the swing arm as you jack, otherwise the swing arm bolt doesn't want to slide back in easily. I'll do the fronts tomorrow. FYI..
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  #167  
By whitebimmer335 on 02-11-2014, 02:37 AM
i just lowered my car with h&r sports spring. i love the drop! i only have a big problem i think...

you can here a clunking sound while turning left and right. its like metal to metal clunk, everytime i turn you'll hear "clunk clunk clunk" then it will stop on a certain point then when going back itll do the same thing. im pretty sure i tighten everything. i even went to the shop to get it checked out and they cant seem to find the answer not unless they redo the whole install..

i know i have blown shocks but it should not make that sound i think since the sound was never there when i was running on stock springs.. please help me out.

i only have problem with the fronts.
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  #168  
By gallopinto57 on 03-08-2014, 11:37 PM
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Compressing the springs

This is what i did to get the extra 1/4" for the 19mm strut nut on top.
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  #169  
By BMWster on 06-23-2014, 05:19 AM
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I just changed my rear struts and springs on my 2007 328xi and have a few observations to share.

1) You CAN lower the control arm by removing the front bolt. but it needs a little persuasion. The control arm will not drop because the is a small cross member on the arm that just hits the knuckle. A tap downward on the control arm with a piece of 2x4 and a dead low hammer will knock it loose. Removing the front bolts is the way to go if you hate working underneath the car. I was able to do the whole job from the side of the car.

2) you definitely need 2 jacks to get the control realign with the knuckle. One under the control arm and the other under the rotor hat. It's a royal pain in the ass. You need to play with both jacks to get the holes aligned. Occassionally tap the wheel assembly with the dead low hammer because the control arm will bind with the knuckle. Align the rear facing hole and insert the bolt, then work on aligning the other hole. This is the hardest part of the job.

3) ALERT - On the driverside control arm, disconnect the ride height sensor, if you have one. I think cars with xenon headlamps will have this. This was not mentioned in this DIY and mine came off when the control arm dropped. I got lucky and there was no damage to the part. The assembly popped out of the frame, but it was a pita to put it back in. Tight spaces and not knowing the orientation of the part made the task difficult. So, look at the driver side control arm before doing anything. Maybe take a picture before proceeding.
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  #170  
By BMWster on 06-23-2014, 05:27 AM
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Btw, it took me a couple of hours to do the first side. Figuring out how to lower the control arm past the knuckle took time and then to realign the control arm with the knuckle took more time. With experience, It was much faster on the other side but I lost a lot of time reattaching the ride height sensor. All together, it took me about 8 hrs to do both sides.

Nevertheless, this is a great DIY. I hope these additional tips will shorten your time.
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  #171  
By BMWster on 06-23-2014, 05:31 AM
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One more tip. Have your car on jacks. And as an extra safety, put your wheel underneath the side frame of your car, on the side that you are working on. If your car comes off the jack, your wheel will support your car. Safety first.
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  #172  
By WapArtist on Today, 03:31 PM
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Excellent DIY. Will be doing this weekend but with Eibachs.
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