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      07-20-2008, 02:41 PM   #1
CrimsonRedE93
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Arrow E93 Blaupunkt Amplifier & Tweeter Install

I have the base stereo system in my E93 which I have found a little lacking in the highs and in power so I have been looking to upgrade, I have to thank
Gizze (Guy) for his posts and help he has given on this topic.

My car is an E93 with Pro Nav, Bluetooth and Telematics, this post is for information and does not include every step required and carrying out this work may invalidate your warranty or damage your car, I am in no way responsible for this.


Tweeter Addition
So I decided to add the tweeters that the base system does not have, these were purchased directly from BMW:

B51.33.7.184.197 Corner Moulding x 1 8.68
B51.33.7.184.198 Corner Moulding x 1 8.68
B65.13.6.964.013 Logic 7 Tweeter x 2 36.68 Each

These prices do not include VAT, you can go for the cheaper tweeter, the tweeters come with the cable that plugs into the midrange door speaker.

Before you start on the door panel is to make sure you have something to rest the door panel on once it is free as you only have a few inches of slack to play with and you need to keep it at the same height whilst you are fitting the tweeter.

1) Carefully pull the trim strip off the door to expose the screws and remove (if working on the passenger door remove the handle trim and remove the other screw)

2) Carefully lever the door panel, you do have to pull it quite hard (you may damage the wiring if you pull the panel off hard though)

3) Taking the corner piece of is very difficult to explain, I suggest looking at the purchased replacements to understand how they are held on with the tweeters.

4) The tweeter wires plug into the door speaker there is a spare connector.


Amplifier Addition
The only real option is to use the Blaupunkt plug and play amplifiers unless you want to go complete custom which would be a real pain as the audio system is integrated into everything.

THA275 2 x 75W RMS
THA475 4 x 75W RMS
THA555 4 x 55W RMS, 1 x 200W RMS

Blaupunkt Cable adapter 7 607 622 016-001
Blaupunkt 5.5m extension cable 7 607 622 011-001

The standard headunit is 4 x 15W, I thought I would go with the THA555 so that for now I can change from 15W to 55W per channel and later I could upgrade the standard 6.5" subs to 8" subs and use the 200W channel that is left if I though I needed to.

Hard parts of the amplifier install, getting the headunit back in with the extra wires which is made worse if you have Pro Nav and running the cables through
the boot of an E93 .


1) If your car is auto turn the engine off with the car in drive you will need the space to get the headunit out

2) Disconnect the battery to be on the safe side

3) Cover the gear knob and trim with a cloth, it will get scratched when you are messing around with the cables

4) Carefully remove the trim strip from the centre of the dash to allow removal of the climate controls (it has a lip on the top)

5) Pull the climate control straight out, it is held by one clip on either side (I recommend removing the 3 cables and putting the climate somewhere safe as it gets in the way)

6) Remove the headunit cover/heated seat buttons by levering the sides at the top, unclip the buttons from the bezel and rest the buttons in the Nav hole

7) Undo the 4 headunit screws and pull the headunit out far enough to gain access to the rear, being careful not to damage any cables

8) Remove the original headunit connector from the headunit and remove the fibre optics noting the location and orientation

9) Fit the fibre optics into the new adapter and fit into the head unit (This is not mentioned in the manufactures information)

10) Plug the other cables where the instructions state, If you are powering the amplifier directly from the battery you do not need to use the single and
double connectors (I removed these to give more space behind the headunit)

11) Push the original/adapter connector to the far right so that it is out of the way, try and route all wires to give the maximum room, this may mean
removing the foam at the bottom or removing the cable clips at the bottom to give more space

12) Try fitting the headunit back in, keep moving wires and retrying until it fits without too much trouble and screw back in

13) At this stage I suggest connecting the amplifier to the battery and headunit to do a test before moving forward

14) If all is good just hide the cables, I have left out the cable running from headunit to amplifier as it will vary drastically


Amplifier Setup
Front and rear levels set to 8V as the head unit has a high output
Front and rear high pass set to 10Hz (as front output currently runs the underseat subs as well)
Rear low pass is off to give full range output on rears


The tweeters are good I have now turned down the treble a few notches, the amplifier has added depth and warmth to the sound, I can hear things that were not there before, I need some more time to try different music and perhaps make a few tweaks.


Not the neatest install but very easy to return to stock

Yes I know the logo is upside down but I wanted to maintain easy access to the adjustments and the logo panel is glued on
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      07-20-2008, 03:35 PM   #2
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Superb! thanks heaps! I owe you and Guy a beer or ten
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      07-20-2008, 03:42 PM   #3
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also check out http://www.cooper-bmw-parts.co.uk for part costings, I have a 10% off voucher somewhere
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      07-20-2008, 03:48 PM   #4
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one question - in step 4

"(4) Carefully remove the trim strip from the centre of the dash to allow removal of the climate controls (it has a lip on the top)"

However in picture 4 the trim is back on? (above climate)
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      07-20-2008, 04:55 PM   #5
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Awesome post mate...

If only there were more like you on this forum
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      07-21-2008, 01:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzapb View Post
one question - in step 4

"(4) Carefully remove the trim strip from the centre of the dash to allow removal of the climate controls (it has a lip on the top)"

However in picture 4 the trim is back on? (above climate)
Great post! I have the same query. I want to check behind the climate because of an irritating rattle - do I need to take off the dash wood trim (if so how) and how to lever off the front of the climate (credit card...)? Thanks.
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      07-21-2008, 07:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzapb View Post
one question - in step 4

"(4) Carefully remove the trim strip from the centre of the dash to allow removal of the climate controls (it has a lip on the top)"

However in picture 4 the trim is back on? (above climate)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BC4J View Post
Great post! I have the same query. I want to check behind the climate because of an irritating rattle - do I need to take off the dash wood trim (if so how) and how to lever off the front of the climate (credit card...)? Thanks.
Let's just say that if you lever the climate out from the bottom you can actually get it out without removing the dash trim strip but you can't get it back in again, unless you remove the lip before refitting it

To get the dash trim strip off you need to insert a wide flat blade screwdriver between the trim and dash on the passenger side, I used a folded credit card as it then protects both the dash and the trim strip, bend the card in half and push the folded edge between the dash and trim then insert the screwdriver so it sits in the fold of the credit card and lever away.
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      02-20-2009, 05:13 PM   #8
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Good set of pictures!

I am new to the forum and read Gizze post adding the amp to an E90 which inspired me to buy a THA555 and I also got a set of MB Quartz component speakers.

I spent yesterday evening fitting the amp and after much frustration trying to get the head unit back in, with all the additional wiring behind, I finally succeded.

I first tried with the power coming from the head unit as per 'PnP' and this worked fine but turning up the volume to not far above a whisper resulted in the power to the amp being cut (green light went out). I turned the volume down again and the amp kicked back into life.

I then left it till morning when I took my usual 3/4 hour commute to work and hallf way there the amp cut out again. It then refused to come back to life at all. On checking the amp, it would come to life (green light on) for half a second or so then cllick off (green light fade), after 10 secs or so this would happen again and again.

I guessed the problem was with the power and so picked up some live fused and earth cable and replaced the PnP power with a connection direct to the battery.

This did not fix the problem, it is still going on and off every 10 secs without ever getting as far as powering the speakers.

I resorted to removing the wiring loom again and plugging back in as per OEM and confirmed the normal set up still works.

Any ideas? Am I going to have to return tha amp? I haven't even got as far as fitting my shiny new speakers yet!!!
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      02-21-2009, 02:15 PM   #9
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I presume that the red light does not flick at all?, this would indicate a wiring problem before the shutdown.

The +12V and 0V power are only connected to the battery and not connected to the head unit as well?, they should only be connected to the battery?

You did change the MOST fibre optics over from the old head unit connector to the new one?

Did you try it before pushing the head unit far back?, I have heard of problems where the speaker connector can be pulled out when the head unit is pushed in hard and this can stop teh amp turning on?

Thats all I can think of at the moment, but Gizze may be along with some more suggestions
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      02-21-2009, 03:03 PM   #10
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Is there any point in replacing the speakers in the rear passenger side panels? Do you know what size they are?
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      02-21-2009, 04:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonRedE93 View Post
I presume that the red light does not flick at all?, this would indicate a wiring problem before the shutdown.
No, the red light doesn't come on at all

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonRedE93 View Post
The +12V and 0V power are only connected to the battery and not connected to the head unit as well?, they should only be connected to the battery?
Yes, just +12V direct from battery and Ground to negative battery connection. Nothing in the centre "remote" connection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonRedE93 View Post
You did change the MOST fibre optics over from the old head unit connector to the new one?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonRedE93 View Post
Did you try it before pushing the head unit far back?, I have heard of problems where the speaker connector can be pulled out when the head unit is pushed in hard and this can stop teh amp turning on?
Yes, as I say it did work briefly before and after pushing home before entering this green light on/off cycle. I have also removed the head unit, unplugged and checked the PnP cable and re connected and get the same cycle.

Is there any way to check the amp function without connecting up the Head unit and PnP cables, e.g. ipod into aux direct and speakers direct to output?

Thanks for reply and help.
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      02-21-2009, 04:50 PM   #12
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If you want to try the amp seperately you can unplug the PNP input cables, connect the remote connection to +12V to turn the amp on and feed any audio signal into the RCA inputs (using the front and then rear RCA inputs to check the speakers etc seperately)

This should prove the power, amp and speaker wiring
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      02-24-2009, 01:12 PM   #13
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I've gone down the L7 tweeter route and, thanks to people like yourself, (and others), know exactly how to fit once here which should be tomorrow with a fair wind blowing! The next logical step is an amp upgrade and the Blaupunkt THA275 looks like it'll suit me, (I think). My question is should I decide to install the SWS-8 subs in the future will the THA275 power these ok? I don't want massive bass levels so i'm assuming the standard units will be sufficient with this B/punkt but if not will the amp be up to the job?

Appreciate some input here as i'm itching to get the amp on order.
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      02-24-2009, 03:59 PM   #14
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If you plan to get SWS-8's, go for the THA555 amp that has its own channel for the subs - the THA275 only has 2 channels - so the subs would have to share the same channels as the other 2 speakers - not worth the effort IMO
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      02-24-2009, 04:02 PM   #15
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The man gives good advice !
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      02-24-2009, 05:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOB View Post
If you plan to get SWS-8's, go for the THA555 amp that has its own channel for the subs - the THA275 only has 2 channels - so the subs would have to share the same channels as the other 2 speakers - not worth the effort IMO
Thanks for the advice, guys.........I thought this may be the case if I go down the SWS route. I don't suppose either of you have listened to the 275 driving the standard subs? It's a quandry really as I don't tend to listen to music at high volumes, but I'd like some more depth than is there currently, you know how pathetic the standard system is. Likewise If the 555 was fitted will the standard speakers be ok run from that?

Apologies for the dumbass questions

Edit........obviously they will, just realised CrimsonRed's initial post related to this amp/speaker set up!, tired is my excuse!

Last edited by ziplex; 02-24-2009 at 05:20 PM. Reason: post reviewed
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      02-27-2009, 11:25 AM   #17
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As you spotted it works fine
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      02-27-2009, 12:55 PM   #18
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L7 tweeters are in and offer a definate improvement, noticeably more detailed especially when using MP3's. Am I right in thinking the subs are recieving a little more power now, seems like it!?

Anyhow, just need to make my mind up with which amp to go for, I imagine i'll wait a while and go the 555 route.

Thanks again for the info' on the L7's.........
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      02-28-2009, 01:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziplex View Post
L7 tweeters are in and offer a definate improvement, noticeably more detailed especially when using MP3's. Am I right in thinking the subs are recieving a little more power now, seems like it!?

Anyhow, just need to make my mind up with which amp to go for, I imagine i'll wait a while and go the 555 route.

Thanks again for the info' on the L7's.........
Now your running mids and tweeters, the speaker impedance will have changed... so your now probably having to drive the channels a bit harder, meaning the subs are having a bit more juice.
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      03-01-2009, 09:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biscuits View Post
Now your running mids and tweeters, the speaker impedance will have changed... so your now probably having to drive the channels a bit harder, meaning the subs are having a bit more juice.
thank you Biscuits, nice to think i'm not hearing things then, what with the creaks and rattles that are driving me barking I was starting to think..........
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      03-18-2009, 08:37 AM   #21
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CrimsonRed
In your original post you said

"Hard parts of the amplifier install, getting the headunit back in with the extra wires which is made worse if you have Pro Nav and running the cables through
the boot of an E93."

I have just taken my Amp and cable out of the E92 and am going to fit it to my (new to me) E93. My E93 has the Pro Nav, looking at the photo's I cannot work out the routing you used for the speaker cable thru the seat back. Can you explain where the speaker cable transits the seat back?
Thanks in Advance
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      04-04-2009, 04:13 PM   #22
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Sorry Kend, I missed your post

The picture in my post before the battery connection is showing the speaker cable routing on the near/passenger side in the boot.

Once you take the back seat out you will find that there are cables that run over the right inner wheel arch, there is a foam section that you can open up to pass the speaker cables through.

You will find getting the boot trim out a bit of fun, it is quite stiff and you need to bend it to remove it.
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