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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Door Locks - Anyone had / have this problem?



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      08-19-2012, 12:07 PM   #133
btinl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siper2 View Post
Dealer near me gave a quote of $287.38 to replace one actuator. Which I probably won't do, because the part is $73.19 on ECS' website, plus I'll pick up a door trim removal kit. There's DIYs on YouTube and the forums.

This is the part they provided me with, so hopefully it's what I need:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES90118/

It's $56.78 at Tischer.
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      08-19-2012, 12:13 PM   #134
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I did search their site, they had several listings under "actuator" but I hadn't narrowed it down yet. Thanks.
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      08-19-2012, 12:15 PM   #135
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Well...actually.... that one is for a rear door. $71.26 for a front actuator.
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      08-19-2012, 12:18 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siper2 View Post
Well...actually.... that one is for a rear door. $71.26 for a front actuator.
well, my issue is with a rear door.
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      09-25-2012, 07:48 PM   #137
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Door lock failure

I have been hanging on every word you guys are saying and was going to try the fuse #57 trick. My problem is I can't get to the fuse box withought the passenger door opening ... and it won't open. I can't even figure out how you can change an actuator if you can't get the door open. Am I missing something?
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      09-25-2012, 09:37 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabershaz View Post
I have been hanging on every word you guys are saying and was going to try the fuse #57 trick. My problem is I can't get to the fuse box withought the passenger door opening ... and it won't open. I can't even figure out how you can change an actuator if you can't get the door open. Am I missing something?
Been through this before. Simplest way.
1-change fuse 56 and 57 with a higher rated fuse (I think the one I used was 20)
2- Remove the door panel
3-Remove the condensation protection cover
4-Take off screws that hold the actuator in place (should be 3)
5-Replace lock actuator (will be a bitch to put it in, but play with it.)
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      09-26-2012, 10:49 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabershaz View Post
I have been hanging on every word you guys are saying and was going to try the fuse #57 trick. My problem is I can't get to the fuse box withought the passenger door opening ... and it won't open. I can't even figure out how you can change an actuator if you can't get the door open. Am I missing something?
I'm a little confused by that part of your comment. The fuse box is behind the glovebox... were you aware of that part?
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      09-26-2012, 02:29 PM   #140
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Pretty sure he (or she) is talking about physical access. It's hard to get into the passenger side when the door won't open.

Mine is going to a dealer for the fuse change. I'm going to make them contort their body into unnatural shapes to replace the fuse.
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      09-26-2012, 02:31 PM   #141
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Yes, but though not quite as comfortable, it's still possible to lean over the seat from the driver's side, to change the fuse. Or perhaps lay the passenger seat all the way down.
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      09-26-2012, 02:40 PM   #142
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Ahhh.... laying the seat nearly down may be helpful, thanks for that.

I'm a bigger-sized guy (think linebacker build) so I have less, uhh, degrees of freedom as compared to smaller folks.
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      09-26-2012, 02:44 PM   #143
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It's a safety feature

Quote:
Originally Posted by MontegoDad View Post
Anyone have this problem?

Last week my doors didn't open with the key fob. They lock, but won't unlock. Same with the comfort access features. They lock, but not unlock.

When I press the button, the lights flash 2 x like they are unlocking, I also hear a 'click' in the dash, but the doors dont' unlock.

I took it to the dealer, they replaced a fuse, then it worked. However, today I have the same problem. I can lock the doors, but not unlock them with anything but the actual key.

Fobs - don't work
Button on dash - doesn't work

Any ideas? I'm afraid it sounds like a freak electrical issue / short which is causing the blown fuse.
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      09-26-2012, 02:51 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithrh View Post
Ahhh.... laying the seat nearly down may be helpful, thanks for that.

I'm a bigger-sized guy (think linebacker build) so I have less, uhh, degrees of freedom as compared to smaller folks.
Understood. Just wasn't sure if you knew where the fusebox was, that one comment was a little baffling.
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      09-26-2012, 03:02 PM   #145
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that comment was from another poster - I was just chiming in to say I knew what they meant...
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      09-26-2012, 03:08 PM   #146
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Oh... so it was! Points for paying attention, Siper.
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      09-26-2012, 04:12 PM   #147
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Thanks - I did recline the passenger side, and with a moderate amount of difficulty, I was able to replace the blown 15A fuse with a 20A fuse.

We'll see how long this lasts. Not entirely expecting this to be a long-term fix, but it's worth a shot.
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      09-27-2012, 09:52 PM   #148
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BMW Door lock malfuntion

OK, as a car guy who likes German cars, I have owned 4 VWs (3 new), 4 new MBs and 3 new BMWs plus some detroit iron over the last 50 years. However, I've lost confidence in the geniuses in Munich and in my 2007 BMW 328i wagon over this door lock issue and this is probably my last BMW.

The munich geniuses know things are going to fail, such as the gas filler cover, and they hide a pull string in the back so you can manually release it. If cousin Vito locks you in the trunk, there is a pull string so you can release the trunk lid and get out. BUT THERE IS NO SAFETY FAIL SAFE method for getting out of the car in an emergency if your electronoic unlocker system fails. I think this is a serious safety issue.

Today I took the car in to my independant repair shop. They have worked on my wheels for over 20 years and have trained and qualified mechanics and they somehow have connections to the dealer system. Bottom line, the service guy told me that BMW is well aware of this problem and has determined that the root of the problem is the front door actuators. the have a repair kit that has both left and right actuators in it for $103. Labor to install plus the kit comes to $450.00 plus tax.

This will surely make the doors work for a while but BMW still has a serious emergency egress safety flaw and I will be submitting my complaint to the appropriate channels of government.
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      09-28-2012, 10:57 AM   #149
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Well guys mine went out yesterday I tried replacing Fuse No. 57 with 15amp and blow it I'm going to try replacing fuse No. 56 and 57 with 20amps and see if it works...
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      09-29-2012, 06:45 PM   #150
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Well nothing works I tried replacing fuse no. 56 and 57 with 20amp fuse it Just blow up as soon I tried locking the door... The driver will lock but won't unlock the rest of the doors won't work at all luckily I can manually luck it and I can still open using 2 pull.. So which actuator I need to replace?
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      04-02-2013, 08:48 AM   #151
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So, get this. My right-front door lock wasn't working since last year. I bought the part from ECS but hadn't gotten around to swapping it yet.

Then, last week, I'm in the car on the way somewhere, glance out my right window and see...........my door lock button. In the UP position.

"Did I pull the door handle when I got in the car? I don't think I did..."

Pushed the door lock button a few times, and guess what? The damned thing works.

Completely on its own.

Now that's weird.
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      09-26-2014, 07:56 PM   #152
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I just got this issue on my 07 e90 328i. Driver door won't unlock with key fob, all other doors lock and unlock. Going to check fuses after I get back from the race track tomorrow with my other car. Hopefully I don't have to replace the actuator, as I've already replaced a lot of BMW parts on this car.
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      10-19-2014, 09:57 PM   #153
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have had my car for a month so far...just had this issue tonight. Went out and checked after searching. My 57 was blown. I used a spare 15 that was in the fuse box area, but I will replace it with a 20A when I get one.
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