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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Ugh!!! 2006 330i Valvecover gasket, oil filter gasket, and broken breather hose...



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      01-06-2015, 09:46 AM   #1
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Ugh!!! 2006 330i Valvecover gasket, oil filter gasket, and broken breather hose...

So this past weekend I decided to tackle this little project of changing the VCG, OFHG, change plugs, change oil, clean VANOS, etc.

Well, let me tell you that I now understand why shops charge so much in labor. What a PITA!!! First off, I ran into 2 broken bolts that I now have to drill out. After I got everything off the cover will not come out! It was getting caught on the wire loom towards the back passenger side. After about 3 hours of trying to get the cover off it finally came out with some force. Now I'm worried I may have dislodged other wire connections. I really DO NOT look forward to trying to get that cover back on.

On top of that, I could not get the valvecover breather hose off of the back of the cover, and eventually ended up breaking in half.

Question is, how hard is it to remove the rest of the hose? Or, can I simply tape it up really well since it's not a high pressure hose? I really do not want to start taking other parts off at this point and need the car running in short order.
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      01-06-2015, 10:24 AM   #2
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Amazing!

IF I am correct in my assumption about which hose you are talking about, DO not touch your car anymore! LOL! You will destroy it with such luck.

If it is the whose that is between the engine and firewall, then you will have to remove your intake manifold in order to get the other part of the breather hose removed (replace it completely).
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      01-06-2015, 11:05 AM   #3
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Yes, that is the hose. Apparently it breaks 99% of the time...

I can't be that everybody that breaks the hose has to go through the intake manifold removal...(hoping not).
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      01-06-2015, 11:13 AM   #4
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It breaks 99% of the time during intake swap.

Actually, intake swap is really not that hard. I had to do it twice in 3 days. It takes about 3-4 hours for a novice. BTW. Before you attempt anything, all new bolts to replace your old ones. Do not reuse bolts that come in contact with engine block.
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      01-06-2015, 01:13 PM   #5
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Sorry to change the topic @ stormtrooper7

@ stormtrooper7
Hey stormtropper7, did you ever figure out that throttle valve freezing issue?
I ended up replacing my throttle body with a new unit in the summer due to the freezing issue in the 2014 winter. Damn check engine light came back on this morning with the same code... It was only about -20 C here over night in the GTA.
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      01-06-2015, 02:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duaux View Post
@ stormtrooper7
Hey stormtropper7, did you ever figure out that throttle valve freezing issue?
I ended up replacing my throttle body with a new unit in the summer due to the freezing issue in the 2014 winter. Damn check engine light came back on this morning with the same code... It was only about -20 C here over night in the GTA.
No, I did not. But, I did figure out that it does not happen (at least for me anyway) if I let the car warm up for about 10 minutes or so, depending on how cold it is. I only got it once this year (and it has been cold) and it was because I got into the car and drove off after a couple of minutes.

What year is yours and how many KM's?
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      01-06-2015, 05:41 PM   #7
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I see a lot of Bimmers driving around, and I assume they are not driving in limp mode. Who knows? Maybe they've been warming their cars up all along.
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      01-08-2015, 09:14 PM   #8
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Unhappy

I am driving a 2006 325i with about 155k on it.
-Last year (2013-2014) was my first winter parking outside. It was also a brutal winter last year here in GTA with the ice storm, etc.
-Prior to that I had no problems.

It was DREADFUL. Long story short, too busy at work to even haul my car to my mechanic as I changed job that was located way too far from him. I basically bummed a ride off my sister's COROLLA for the remainder of the winter whenever the car decided to limp mode on me.

Toyota = Legendary Reliability...

My attempt at fixing the freezing TB issue:
1. Cleaned the Throttle Body with the TB cleaning, etc. BTW, it was not dirty... . Problem came back.
2. In the spring I replaced the Throttle Body Unit with a NEW ONE.

This week...
PROBLEM COMES BACK...

Today, Warm Up Test
I tried warming up the car... here is the test.
1. Warmed up the car for about 10 min when the limp mode light came on.
2. I left it on for another 10 min, turned the car off and back on again.
3. Limp mode turned off, but check engine symbol remained.

Note: I know if I were to drive "far enough", the computer will eventually turn the check engine symbol off after it realizes that the TB is no longer spiting out P1639 code.

Symptoms (for those who don't know)
"Extreme Cold" (example, below 10-15 degree Celsius plus another 10-15 degree wind chill)
1. Car sits for 6-8 hours plus+
2. Dash will light up "LIMP MODE" and Check Engine symbols.
3. Car is operating at reduced power. e.g., Can not go above 35-40 KM/H
4. The limp mode can kick in while I have not moved the car. e.g., while it is still warming up.

Conclusion:
I agree with you. Maybe we just need to let it warm up?
Maybe this problem is only applicable to 2006 E90?

Workaround aid:
Remote starter?
Heat gun pointed at the TB?

I love my ride... but I if can't get to work in the morning whats the point? Considering a winter beater when a parking space frees up at home...
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      01-09-2015, 01:11 PM   #9
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Yeah, pretty much exactly what I went though/am going through. I cleaned the TB and VANOS'. The small check engine light does stay on afterwards but it will go away (until the next limp mode...).

Driving this thing in this extreme cold is so frustrating and stressful/anxiety causing. You never know when you will get the dreaded "bong" and then you're limping around...such an inconvenience.

But warming up the car definitely helps. I'm not sure that that is the solution though as there may also be underlying issues.
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      01-09-2015, 01:16 PM   #10
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"Warming up the car" is wearing on engine/trans/diff components. Poor decision.
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      01-09-2015, 01:21 PM   #11
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I live in the GTA also, my E90 never "froze" I even leave the car outside since there's no space in the garage. It starts every single time.
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      01-09-2015, 01:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
"Warming up the car" is wearing on engine/trans/diff components. Poor decision.
To some extent, but not enough to do any more damage to the vehicle than when compared to driving it. Canadians have been doing this since the beginning of time... I have yet to hear someone say "my car died because I warm it up in the morning..."

Warming up the car seems to be the only solution to this (for me anyway). Some BMW SA's here will say the same thing, "it's due to the cold weather this and that..."
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      01-09-2015, 01:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playground View Post
I live in the GTA also, my E90 never "froze" I even leave the car outside since there's no space in the garage. It starts every single time.
Not saying it doesn't start, but that limp mode rears it's head if you don't warm up your car. You're lucky if you don't get this. Or, like I said earlier, we may have underlying issues that are causing it.
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      01-09-2015, 01:39 PM   #14
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I have been driving my car for 4 years through these winters and I have never experienced this issue once.
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      01-09-2015, 01:58 PM   #15
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Sounds like an issue with bad plugs and old coilpacks.
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      01-09-2015, 02:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormtrooper7 View Post
To some extent, but not enough to do any more damage to the vehicle than when compared to driving it. Canadians have been doing this since the beginning of time... I have yet to hear someone say "my car died because I warm it up in the morning..."

Warming up the car seems to be the only solution to this (for me anyway). Some BMW SA's here will say the same thing, "it's due to the cold weather this and that..."
You are just wrong.

Much like religion, it doesn't matter if people have been doing it for centuries. It is utterly moronic, without basis, and causes more damage then it prevents.
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      01-09-2015, 02:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
You are just wrong.

Much like religion, it doesn't matter if people have been doing it for centuries. It is utterly moronic, without basis, and causes more damage then it prevents.
You've obviously have not lived in an extreme cold climate (-30C to -40C). People here would see it the other way, moronic being the one not to warm up the vehicle.

I'm not saying that it doesn't do any damage, I'm saying that you're not going to notice a difference between driving after you've warmed up your car and driving without warming up your car, with the exception of the warmed up car being obviously warmer. I'd also have to say that a majority of car owners will not even come close to seeing the "damaging" effects of "warming up the car" before they are in a new vehicle. Hell, the second and third owners may not even see those effects.

Sometimes you just don't need to drink the cool-aid.
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      01-09-2015, 05:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormtrooper7 View Post
You've obviously have not lived in an extreme cold climate (-30C to -40C). People here would see it the other way, moronic being the one not to warm up the vehicle.

I'm not saying that it doesn't do any damage, I'm saying that you're not going to notice a difference between driving after you've warmed up your car and driving without warming up your car, with the exception of the warmed up car being obviously warmer. I'd also have to say that a majority of car owners will not even come close to seeing the "damaging" effects of "warming up the car" before they are in a new vehicle. Hell, the second and third owners may not even see those effects.

Sometimes you just don't need to drink the cool-aid.
Please explain your superior body of evidence on warm up wear that invalidates the recommendations of the factory, and quantifies your assertion that the wear does not matter.
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      01-09-2015, 08:33 PM   #19
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Have never never heard of this issue before. It is also strange since the throttle body is less relied on since these engines use the Valvtronic for throttle control. But then again, the throttle body does stay partially closed on the warm up cycle (at least from how I understand it). I gather you are suspecting that the actual throttle plate is getting frozen in the closed or partially closed position from frozen condensation or so? Well, even though I cannot say that I have heard of this problem before, suffering with a problem like this with temperatures way below freezing is believable, but I cannot believe this for temperatures around 10-15 degree Celsius as duaux posted. We don't get very cold weather here, but in winter it does sometimes get down to close to freezing in extreme cases, but well below 10 degrees Celsius on winter nights are typical and mostly the days are only somewhat warmer, sometimes only a few degrees, sometimes indeed more. But have never had this problem for what it's worth.

Maybe try warming the engine for a few minutes, then turn it off so that there is no induction allowing the throttle body to benefit from the warmed up engine bay. My gut tells me it is something else though. Very strange, and yes, annoying problem!

As for warming up an engine - I am also dead against it. I would opt to park the car in a garage (ideally climate controlled to a point) and definitely not outside! Whichever way you look at it, it's a waste of fuel, and most engine wear occurs when an engine is cold. Also, the rest of the drivestrain and car doesn't benefit from this warm up since the car is not moving. Where I do feel that it might be less of a problem with these engines, is the fact that these engines have heat exchangers for the oil and coolant, and with this the engine is designed to warm up the engine as quickly as possible. So theoretically it would not stay cold nearly as long as a normal engine that does not have this. But anyway...

How are you progressing with reassembling your car's engine though? I would rather replace that breather hose than tape it up. They are heated so don't suffer from breaking nearly as much as the older non-heated vent hoses. Maybe the extreme cold temperatures where you are is just too much for this. Had to take my 330i's intake off a few years ago, had no trouble getting it off and back on without breaking it. As said above, you will need to take the intake off in order to replace that vent hose.

Hope you get this all sorted out.
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      01-09-2015, 09:25 PM   #20
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@ stormtrooper7
I am in agreement with all your responses to the other members replies. For the other Canadian folks, they are lucky?

@ Three_thirty_I
Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to Minus (negative) 10-15 degrees Celsius with another 10-15 degrees of wind chill. So -30C to -40C total as stated by stormtrooper7. These are well below freezing temperatures I am referring to.
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      01-09-2015, 09:30 PM   #21
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@ All
To recap, this has nothing to do with starting the car... battery, spark plus, coils, are ruled out.

@ stormtrooper
BTW, I had the vanos solenoid problem in the winter of Jan'12 at about 80,000KM. I cleaned them with the air hose and switched them around. Fingers crossed, the problem has not come back since. I should probably plan time to clean them again...
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      01-09-2015, 10:22 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
"Warming up the car" is wearing on engine/trans/diff components. Poor decision.
I'm just gonna leave this here for possible educational purposes.
http://jalopnik.com/yes-warm-your-da...old-1678251730
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