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      09-23-2008, 05:02 AM   #1
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Meguiars G220.....where to start

Hi there,

I'm new to all of this so i'm really just looking for a wee bit of advice.

I've done my homework on polishing machines and have decided to go with meguiars g220 over the porter cable machines.

My painwork is in good condition (it's only an 07 plate and i got it 3 months ago) but having made the leap from my old heap of a corsa to a bmw i obviously want to keep it in as good a condition as i possibly can.

I do have light swirl marks from the previous owner and want try and get rid of them.

The products i will be using are Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine polish, then a wax ( still to decide which one) and then Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection as a sealant.

Which pads should i be using for each stage ?

I have looked at various threads but can't seem to get an answer.

Any help would be great.

Thanks
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      09-23-2008, 05:09 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by g_b View Post
Hi there,

I'm new to all of this so i'm really just looking for a wee bit of advice.

I've done my homework on polishing machines and have decided to go with meguiars g220 over the porter cable machines.

My painwork is in good condition (it's only an 07 plate and i got it 3 months ago) but having made the leap from my old heap of a corsa to a bmw i obviously want to keep it in as good a condition as i possibly can.

I do have light swirl marks from the previous owner and want try and get rid of them.

The products i will be using are Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine polish, then a wax ( still to decide which one) and then Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection as a sealant.

Which pads should i be using for each stage ?

I have looked at various threads but can't seem to get an answer.

Any help would be great.

Thanks
Welcome, I would suggest www.detailingworld.co.uk would be the place to ask the question. Although there are a number of guys on here that can answer your question, i'm sure they will be along soon.
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      09-23-2008, 07:34 AM   #3
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Brave man !

detailingworld is definitely the best place for advice. I thought about buying one of these myself recently but have opted to get the car professionally detailed instead.

Good luck !
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      09-23-2008, 09:59 AM   #4
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I have been researching the same thing!

I spent a while last night surfing tinternet, found some useful vids on youtube, just type in the product or mequiars etc.

Detailworld is a good place to start, and also the mequiars website/uk forums.

I agree with NFS totally though, when you price up the cost of the machine, polish and pads, its not far off the cost of a detail. I now know how to look after the car after some self educating, its just the initial prep and paintwork correction I need.

But, probably like you I enjoy cleaning/detailing, and the investment of a good machine and accessories will last you for along time and many happy hours having fun. (if you like that sort of thing of course)

BTW, the meguiars 3 stage sytem appears a better choice for correction rather than the AG range, but then i've only been looking into this recently too? Probably a lot more better things out there?

Good luck!
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      09-23-2008, 05:30 PM   #5
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Hi GB,

Hope this will help - I've been using a Porter Cable for several years and prepping cars for private use/shows for about 20 odd - never used the Meguiars but the principle on any DA is basically the same.

Please forgive me if any of this sounds like teaching you how to suck eggs - that's not the intention

Regarding pads - The first rule is to use the least aggressive pad that you can. By polishing you are removing some of the clearcoat and you only want to remove the bear minimum in order to correct the swirls. You need a pad that has some cutting action but the pad and polish must work in conjunction i.e there's no point using a light polish on a compounding pad or vice versa.

I use Sonus SFX pads with my PC but as you are probably aware, different companies use different colours. In the case of Sonus, the yellow pad is for heavy cutting (like a compound), the white pad is general polishing (for light/medium polishes) and the blue pad is for finishing with waxes/sealants. I believe in the case of Meguiars pads for light polishing (such as swirl marks) you would want to use their yellow 'Softbuff polishing' pad. See here: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish...ds/cat_23.html

Which polish to use is a very personal thing, everyone has different preferences. The second rule is to use the least aggressive polish - this will save your paint and save you the chance of either creating more problems than you had in the first place or having to spend ages polishing with progressively finer polishes.

Obviously it's important that any polish is suitable for machine use. I've used a variety of polishes over the years but nowadays I only use 3M Finesse-it, which is widely used in the trade - it is a bodyshop safe (silicone free) polish specifically intended for machine use (though you can use it by hand as well) but it is designed so that the polishing particles break down under the heat & friction caused by the machine, so you achieve paint correction but end with a smooth finish. Just occasionally I use Farecla G3 which is a little bit stronger, then I finish with Finesse-it.

Before you start polishing you want to prep the car - here's my approach:
First of all, if you can do all of this in the shade - or on an overcast day then so much the better - for you and the car!
1) Thorough rinse (or jet wash if it's really dirty), followed by a thorough
wash (two bucket method) with Meguiars Gold Class shampoo and a lambswool mitt - no sense in creating more swirls Rinse off (filtered water if you have it - I use Aqua Gleam but doesn't matter if not). Dry with a Water Magnet or other waffle weave towel.
2) Clay bar the entire body (and glass) - on the BMW I use Megiuars Quick Clay as IMO it suits BM paint better (I use Sonus Fine on some paints). I cut the block into 3 pieces usually and use different bits (for upper, mid, lower panels) - kneading/turning the clay regularly to reveal a fresh face. I never use the Meguiars lube as I find it better to use a fresh mix of soapy shampoo - this seems to give a more consistent 'shaving' action and removes more embedded particles. The lube they supply is OK but you seem to either apply too much (no 'shaving') or too little (the clay 'grabs'). Go over the entire car, top down, panel at a time. When every panel feels as smooth as glass and there is no more gritty feeling beneath your finger tips, then you are done. Rinse the panels throughly again.
3) Dry the entire car with a Water Magnet or other waffle weave drying towel (chamois cause more damage, so avoid them).
4) Masking off: Using a polisher close to plastic/metal trim can ruin it, so take the time to mask it off using some low-tack tape. I use the yellow stuff as it reminds me where I've masked at the finishing stages.
5) Covering Up: It's a good idea to use some old Cotton bed sheets to cover parts of the car that you are not working on, especially the glass and windscreen wipers.
6) Ready to Polish: Set up your machine, apply the pad (making sure it's centered and firmly affixed), now make sure there is nothing on your person that could damage the paint (rings, buckles etc) when you are standing by the car working - I know it sounds daft but there's nothing worse than standing back to admire your handywork and seeing a scratch on the side panel Next make sure you put the electric cable over your shoulder, to save it dragging on the paint. Using some filtered water in a spritz bottle, lightly mist the polishing pad (2 squirts should be enough) and squeeze a large 'X' shape of polish onto the pad.
7) Starting at the front of the roof, press the pad (LIGHTLY) onto a about a quarter of the roof, to transfer the polish onto the roof. BE CAREFUL - the roofs on modern BMs are quite thin metal and can dent them if you apply to much pressure (I know - it's a pro job to remove them).
8) Now you can start polishing: Set the machine on about 1/3rd (I'm not sure what the setting range is on the G220 but on a PC it's about setting 3). Hold the machine and start it on the paint, with the pad kept flat on the paint (don't angle it) and don't apply pressure: The weight of the machine and the polish should be all you need to do the polishing work.
9) Move the machine slowly from side to side and up and down in order to spread the polish evenly over the area you are working. Once you have done this you can increase the speed to about half way - again, keep moving the machine slowly, about 1 - 2 inches per second seems to work for me on a mid setting. Take care when you are polishing near seams or ridges, as this is where paint/clear coat will be thinnest - it's often best to polish up to the line from either side - don't sit your machine on a seam/ridge and never leave it there for more than a second or two. DA machines do a great job but no matter what people tell you, a DA machine can cut paint if left on a seam/ridge for too long and care is still needed!!
Keep polishing until the polish starts to 'buff out' - it will go clear and then begin to dry to a haze (to be honest you can stop when it turns clear but you will need more cloths to remove the remainder of the still wet polish). At this point you should have an area that is covered in a fine film of polish.
10) Put the machine carefully out of the way - I use a portable table as it saves getting the machine/pad anywhere near the ground!
11) Clean off the remaining polish/haze with a clean Cotton polishing towel (I prefer to use Cotton, as it gives a better finish than Polyester Microfibre but again it's what you get used to or prefer).
12) Check your work: A hand held fluorescent lamp is ideal, especially if you are working under cover and look along the length of the panel and from several angles/positions, to see if there are any remaining swirls. Better to go over the area twice (if needed) with a fine polish than hit it too hard with a harsh abrasive and then have to work that out with finer abrasives.
13) Repeat this procedure over the entire panel and then every other panel on the car - taking care again with ridges and shut lines.
I usually work, roof, bonnet, wings, doors, 3/4s, boot then the flat areas of the front spoiler (finishing the remainder by hand).
14) Be sure to hand polish in the recess behind the door handles. This area can get a lot of abuse (esp if your lady has long nails
15) Remove your masking tape and clean any remaining polish from shut lines and crevices with cotton towel and horsehair brush.

Once the entire car has been polished you will want to proceed immediately with wax or sealant as in it's current state the vehicle has no protection.

Again, what you use is personal choice: I've used Autoglym, Meguiars, and Zymol but my current preference is for Klasse products, topped off with Zymol for added warmth.
1) Klasse AIO (All in One) - apply with a damp cotton cloth, wipe immediately with a dry cotton cloth and buff with cotton buffing towel. This stuff can also be applied to glass, metal trim (gutters, wiper arms etc), perspex (headlight covers) and doesn't leave any white chalky residue.
2) Klasse SG (Sealant Glaze) - apply a tiny, tiny amount with a foam applicator, allow to dry and buff off. This stuff is excellent and gives great protection (c8-12mths) but is a PIG to buff off. The best technique is to apply thin layer, let it dry for a few mintes, use a moistened cloth to remove haze then buff immediately with a dry cotton cloth - then you get a great shine. Bit of a pfaff but worth it.
3) Zymol Carnauba Glaze - I have used various for different cars, Atlantique (if you can get your hands on some) or Destiny are excellent but TBH, other than for shows I normally use Titanium (meant for SUV's but works well and adds warmth to the shine, esp on dark blue or red).

Final jobs (usually the following weekend - when I've recovered) are wheel cleaning with Klasse AIO, followed by Poor Boys wheel sealant and tyre dressing. Engine bay plastics. Interior vac, glass, plastics and leather.

This work should remove swirls and give good protection for 12 months. Keeping the swirls at bay is then much easier and you can use the machine when needed to correct swirls, polish out scratches or do the penultimate buff on your wax (the final buff is always better done by hand).

HTH

PS: Anything deeper than a swirl requires a slightly different approach - happy to advise if needed.
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Last edited by Mark II; 09-23-2008 at 06:15 PM.
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      09-24-2008, 02:59 AM   #6
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That's what I call a reply, well done Mark II
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      09-24-2008, 04:09 AM   #7
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Excellent!!!

I have just purchased one of these machines so has given me LOADS of tips, many thanks
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      09-24-2008, 04:16 AM   #8
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POST OF THE CENTURY!!

Well done!
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      09-24-2008, 04:42 AM   #9
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Nice one Mark!

Note to self, remember to look out for when Mark is selling his car - will be better than new!!!
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      09-24-2008, 04:52 AM   #10
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I have written to Her Majesty at Buckingham Palace to recommend Mark for a Knighthood.

I think from now on he should be named "Sir Mark the II of e90post"
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      09-24-2008, 07:01 AM   #11
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Aww, thanks guys

Happy to help - sorry I didn't have any pics to hand but if anyone needs any further advice then I'll do my best.

Booforty: Thanks, I quite like the sound of Sir Mark II ! If you could put a word in with Queeny I'd appreciate it.

Chrisbin: Thanks mate - it is usually the case. I'm keeping this one for a while but I'll let you know

RedE93cab: You're not very far from me, so if you want any help on the first run then just give me a shout.

Cheers
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      09-24-2008, 07:34 AM   #12
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- sorry I didn't have any pics to hand
Yeah come to think of it, your answer was crap really.
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      09-24-2008, 08:10 AM   #13
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Yeah come to think of it, your answer was crap really.
Cheeky sod

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      09-24-2008, 08:39 AM   #14
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Streuth Mark, just read all that - very impressed and the spelling and formatting is excellent.

Just proves that we was properly educated in our day dun it.

Very useful information though, thanks.
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      09-24-2008, 08:54 AM   #15
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Thanks for the amazing reply Mark.....i am slightly worried now though.

I realise that for the cost of all the stuff i need i might be better off just paying someone else to do it but i kinda fancy giving it a go myself and i figure that in the long run it'll work out cheaper for me.

How badly wrong can i go ?
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      09-24-2008, 09:08 AM   #16
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Just proves that we was properly educated in our day dun it.
Two write. Nun of thiz modden twaddel!

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      09-24-2008, 09:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g_b View Post
Thanks for the amazing reply Mark.....i am slightly worried now though.

I realise that for the cost of all the stuff i need i might be better off just paying someone else to do it but i kinda fancy giving it a go myself and i figure that in the long run it'll work out cheaper for me.

How badly wrong can i go ?
Don't buy the Meguiars unit. Instead try your local Aldi, where for a very similar model but with 3yrs warranty, the cost is 25.

Mark, great post . I was looking for more information on how to use mine. Do not have any swirl marks but only want to make waxing easier and less time consuming.
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      09-24-2008, 09:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g_b View Post
Thanks for the amazing reply Mark.....i am slightly worried now though.

I realise that for the cost of all the stuff i need i might be better off just paying someone else to do it but i kinda fancy giving it a go myself and i figure that in the long run it'll work out cheaper for me.

How badly wrong can i go ?
No problem!

Monetary cost aside, there is a great sense of pride in having done it yourself and with a bit of care it should not be a problem - just follow the basic rules above, allow plenty of time (a long weekend is best if you can on the first occasion), don't try to rush and all should be OK.

If you have the time then there is much to be said for doing the work yourself: No matter how good a professional detailer is, they are doing it for a living and must be constrained to some extent by the commercial considerations of how long they spend on your car and how hard they try to perfect every panel.

Obviously you don't need to use all the same stuff I do, just make sure the car is completely clean before you begin and that the polish is suitable for machine use. You don't have to clay if you don't want to/or have time to (though I recommend it if you want the best results).

If you really are concerned about 'trying things out' on your BM then I would suggest buying a panel from a scrap yard to practice on - a saloon/coupe boot (e36/e46) would be ideal as they would be small enough to bring home easily but give you both flat and ridged areas to work on.

Other than that just 'go for it'

Anything else just ask.
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      09-24-2008, 09:57 AM   #19
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Don't buy the Meguiars unit. Instead try your local Aldi, where for a very similar model but with 3yrs warranty, the cost is 25.

Mark, great post . I was looking for more information on how to use mine. Do not have any swirl marks but only want to make waxing easier and less time consuming.
Interesting, I know Lidl have been selling inexpensive power tools for some time but I didn't know Aldi were doing it.

All I would say is that if it's branded 'Park' (which is one of Lidl's brands - made in China I'm sure) then I would figure on it lasting no more than 3 years - like 3yrs and phut!

Applying solid waxes with a machine is much the same technique as for polishing - except you use a lower machine setting and use a Final Finish pad (Blue for Sonus SFX or Creamy Beige colour for Meguiars). If you are using a liquid wax then just be careful of the amount of sling you will get.

You can use a DAS microfibre buffing bonnet (over the pad) to buff out but even if I do this, I always prefer to do the very final buff by hand. Also, some waxes (like Zymol) are very specific about how you buff to achieve the best result (like in some cases 'buff lightly once, turn microfibre to reveal fresh face, buff again, leave for 24 hrs then buff again') - all depends on what you use.
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      09-24-2008, 10:01 AM   #20
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Thanks for quick reply. Going to wax car tomorrow when it stops raining
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      09-24-2008, 02:54 PM   #21
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Awesome post, well written too!!

The more I research this week, the more tempted I am to get one and 'have a go'!

To me, within reason, irrespective of the car, nothing turns heads more than a highly polished gleaming motor!

My friend has an A6 that he wants to just get rid of, the paintwork has been abused slightly over the years.........I think this is my guinea pig!!!

Ive found a detailer in the midlands, via a forum (detailingworld), that does tuition for a reasonable daily fee?

Mark, you may have just cost me money?
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      09-24-2008, 03:01 PM   #22
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Sir Mark the II would you detail my car? I would love someone like you to do it!
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