[dwells]

I have very little experience when it comes to working on cars mechanically. So far on my car I've swapped bulbs, reflectors, changed my cabin filter, and cleaned out my airbox. On my old car, a Saab, I changed the engine coolant which was a pain. That's about all the car experience I have - I've always had a warranty and no one in my family was mechanically inclined. Never even taken a wheel off.

I'm ordering new pads, rotors, sensors, brake fluid, and caliper paint since the brakes are due and I'm out of warranty now. How much of a challenge is this project going to be for someone as inexperienced as myself? I have a strong desire to learn and I definitely want to start teaching myself to do these things.

What tools am I going to need and about how much should I be expecting to spend? So far I've determined the following:

• Jack (I believe this is the one I have already)
• Jack stands
• Digital torque wrench adapter
• Wrench
• Rubber-coated 17mm socket
• Brake bleeder

And yeah, I know it's pretty damn sad how clueless I am about all this. But I'm trying to learn. Electrical work has always been my thing, not mechanical work.

Thanks for any help!

[BRGmatthew]

not hard, takes me about 20min after all the wheels are off
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=613337

[BRGmatthew]

also look into buying an actual torque wrench, not an adapter
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-elect..._tnt=39869:4:0

[BillionPa]

as mentioned, get a real torque wrench

You also need a jack pad adapter for the 335, and make sure the jack is a low profile kind, mine is not and i need to drive onto something like a wood plank to make the car taller before it will fit under the car

I used 2 different torque wrenches (1/2 and 3/8 drive), a standard craftsman 1/2" drive wrench, a husky 3/8" drive articulating wrench, and a set of metric hex bit adapters with 3/8 drive. you will need the hex bits to remove the rotor and caliper (7mm I think). having more tools is WAY better than having less, and you will probably find 1000 uses for them later. You will also need sockets between 14 and 21mm for most work on the axle and brake components of these cars

Have several extensions and adapters between the 1/2 and 3/8 sizes available

Also, get a rubber mallet is the 'anti bounce' kind, they cost more, but are totally worth it (if you have ever hit something hard and had the mallet bounce back into plastic bodywork and damage it, you know...). these help remove stuck wheels and rotors

For brake work, get 8,10,and 11mm flare wrenches ( I have 2 10/11 combo flares, and 8,9,10 regular). You should have a full set of metric wrenches from 6 to 17mm anyway for working on BMWs, the flare specific ones are good for brake bleeding and removing the solid brake pipes

Also get Lubro Moly LM508 anti sieze, and ATE Plastilube
Also, I recommend a new set of rotor bolts 34211161806, front caliper carrier bolts 34116772117, rear caliper caliper bolts 34203414763

I also used moly dry lube spray on the caliper mounting bolts, as wet lubricant should not be used on them, although you technically only need to clean them or replace them.

Dont forget shop towels, a dust mask, goggles, non-chlorinated brake cleaner spray, and catch bottles for the fluid from the calipers, and a box of nitrile gloves

You may also need a handheld grinder with a soft metal brush to clean rust off the wheel hub assemblies ( then use plastilube on them so they dont rust anymore )

[dwells]

Why the suggestions for a real torque wrench? From what I gather, I'd have to spend at least $200 to get a decent one, while that $40 adapter seems to be extremely accurate based on reviews.

EDIT: Reviews for thsi wrench - http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...rench-239.html - say the 90 ft/lb setting is accurate, close enough to 88 ft/lb BMW recommends I'd say. I'm sure at $20 it won't last long, but I'll never use a wrench enough to justify $200+.

[BillionPa]

my 3/8" drive was $25 (ProGrade brand)
my 1/2" was Husky I think, got it at Home Depot for $80, does not look like the ones they are currently selling
there is no way in hell I would buy a torque wrench from harbor freight...

[mlifxs]

I recently changed my front pads. Haven't done any brake work in +30 years. Before attempting, I watched this DIY video from a parts vendor fcpeuro. THought it was pretty good. DIY for pads, rotors and sensor.

[RallyRcrr]

Just a friendly word of caution. If you're unsure of your ability to complete this at any point seek help from a knowledgable friend or professional. Of all the mods/fixes you can do this is one of the most critical to safety. A lot of things go wrong when you cant stop.

[boostfiend]

The only thing i'd be worried about is bleeding the system properly if you are changing the fluid (Make sure you get the proper brake fluid and NOT MIX what you have now with what's going in there unless you know for sure they are the same DOT brake fluid rating and same brand brake fluid most really don't mix well at all). If you are doing it yourself with no prior knowledge that's about the only really thing that you can screw it the rest is pretty simple if you follow a DIY.

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by BRGmatthew

also look into buying an actual torque wrench, not an adapter
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-elect..._tnt=39869:4:0

A rebadged Gearwrench.

For future use, if you do more than brakes, get the model with torque plus angle.

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by dwells

Why the suggestions for a real torque wrench? From what I gather, I'd have to spend at least $200 to get a decent one, while that $40 adapter seems to be extremely accurate based on reviews.

EDIT: Reviews for thsi wrench - http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...rench-239.html - say the 90 ft/lb setting is accurate, close enough to 88 ft/lb BMW recommends I'd say. I'm sure at $20 it won't last long, but I'll never use a wrench enough to justify $200+.

In a tight space, that adapter's a problem. Does it do angle? Some BMW bolts need that. Does it beep? When you can't easily see the readout, invaluable.

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by dwells

Jack (I believe this is the one I have already)

Have you used it to raise yer ride? You have a low profile vehicle....best to raise the vehicle by driving onto 2x12 blocks, then slip that floor jack under. I use forward jack point and differential; 3 ton jack stands at each side pad with 2x4 block between stand & pad for protection. Ditto wood between floor jack and jack point. For add'l height, nail 2 blocks together. Naturally, bevel one end. Might want to nail a small rail on the other end for safety/tire bump stop.

I drive onto blocks on one end, use center jack point to raise; slip jack stands under side pads, that end. Then use side jack stand to raise the other end enough to access the other center jack point with a second floor jack. I found 2 floor jacks very useful.

Jack Points

[dwells]

First off, thanks for the feedback, everyone.

Originally Posted by mlifxs

I recently changed my front pads. Haven't done any brake work in +30 years. Before attempting, I watched this DIY video from a parts vendor fcpeuro. THought it was pretty good. DIY for pads, rotors and sensor.

Awesome, I'll check that out.

Originally Posted by RallyRcrr

Just a friendly word of caution. If you're unsure of your ability to complete this at any point seek help from a knowledgable friend or professional. Of all the mods/fixes you can do this is one of the most critical to safety. A lot of things go wrong when you cant stop.

I'm hoping I'll be able to get one of my friends in town soon to lend me a hand. Either way, after doing the work, I'll take the car for a quick spin around the block on side roads, if everything checks out then I'll find somewhere to bed the brakes, then drive a bit more on side roads and unpopulated areas to make sure everything checks out.

Originally Posted by boostfiend

The only thing i'd be worried about is bleeding the system properly if you are changing the fluid (Make sure you get the proper brake fluid and NOT MIX what you have now with what's going in there unless you know for sure they are the same DOT brake fluid rating and same brand brake fluid most really don't mix well at all). If you are doing it yourself with no prior knowledge that's about the only really thing that you can screw it the rest is pretty simple if you follow a DIY.

Ordered ATE Super Blue which is DOT 4 (same as OEM BMW). I'm going to have to find some videos or something on how to properly do fluid changes.

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

I drive onto blocks on one end, use center jack point to raise; slip jack stands under side pads, that end. Then use side jack stand to raise the other end enough to access the other center jack point with a second floor jack. I found 2 floor jacks very useful.

Yeah, there's probably no way I'm going to be able to reach the front/central jacking point with my lift, so I'll wind up driving onto blocks or buying the ramp things (which are stupidly expensive for a glorified piece of plastic). My plan was to drive the front wheels on blocks, slide the jack under, slip a piece of wood or something between the jack point and the jack as protection, raise the car, and then put the front on jack stands (again, wood protectors). Then repeat for the rear.