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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > JuiceBox 3 Review: CRAZY



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      09-28-2008, 02:16 AM   #23
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nice post and thanks for sharing.
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      09-28-2008, 03:12 AM   #24
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The JB3 should not be detected as long as you select the proper version and don't do something stupid like leave it in when you take it in for service but there is no way to guarantee that there isn't something really hidden that will give it away. You can go to certain places to get hidden ecu codes checked and cleared but again it's never a guarantee.

After a day of driving I have to say that the power of the JB3 comes with a price. All that low end power comes at the expense of your MPG rating. Using the high boost map I have lost 1-2 mpg(probably due to all those WOT pulls too haha) but I would definitely say that it won't improve your gas mileage. Then again im sure the low boost map has much less of a mpg issue while the stock map is always there if you REALLY need to save gas. For long commutes its not so much of an issue as long as you don't get stuck in bad traffic because the mpg only starts sucking when you accelerate and the higher boost means more gas. I don't really think that anybody buys a 335i for the gas mileage anyway so.... not really a big deal i think. With all that extra power I don't mind paying a bit more at the pump.

On a side note oil temperatures seem pretty much the same as before or maybe a tiny bit cooler.

Oh yeah, me and a porsche 911 gt2 went at it on the freeway today and I actually kept up. He pulled on me a decent bit when it cleared up but I can't even imagine how far back I would have been without the JB3. I didn't know if the GT2 was that fast or not at the time so I looked it up when I got home and just now realized how fast his car really is.

from wikipedia:
"The GT2 accelerates in 3.6 seconds to 60 mph (97 km/h) and in 7.4 seconds to 100 mph (161 km/h) and has a maximum top speed of 204 mph (328 km/h) This makes it the first Porsche 911 to exceed the 200 mph (322 km/h) top speed, with the exception of the 1998 Porsche 911 GT1 which is not considered by enthusiasts to be an actual Porsche 911 due to its mid-mounted engine."

And he wasn't even pulling away that much! I talked to him afterward and he said he was surprised I kept up as well as I did. I thought he was just being a bit arrogant but his car is actually FAST.
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      09-28-2008, 09:00 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T2x View Post
The JB3 should not be detected as long as you select the proper version and don't do something stupid like leave it in when you take it in for service but there is no way to guarantee that there isn't something really hidden that will give it away. You can go to certain places to get hidden ecu codes checked and cleared but again it's never a guarantee.

After a day of driving I have to say that the power of the JB3 comes with a price. All that low end power comes at the expense of your MPG rating. Using the high boost map I have lost 1-2 mpg(probably due to all those WOT pulls too haha) but I would definitely say that it won't improve your gas mileage. Then again im sure the low boost map has much less of a mpg issue while the stock map is always there if you REALLY need to save gas. For long commutes its not so much of an issue as long as you don't get stuck in bad traffic because the mpg only starts sucking when you accelerate and the higher boost means more gas. I don't really think that anybody buys a 335i for the gas mileage anyway so.... not really a big deal i think. With all that extra power I don't mind paying a bit more at the pump.

On a side note oil temperatures seem pretty much the same as before or maybe a tiny bit cooler.

Oh yeah, me and a porsche 911 gt2 went at it on the freeway today and I actually kept up. He pulled on me a decent bit when it cleared up but I can't even imagine how far back I would have been without the JB3. I didn't know if the GT2 was that fast or not at the time so I looked it up when I got home and just now realized how fast his car really is.

from wikipedia:
"The GT2 accelerates in 3.6 seconds to 60 mph (97 km/h) and in 7.4 seconds to 100 mph (161 km/h) and has a maximum top speed of 204 mph (328 km/h) This makes it the first Porsche 911 to exceed the 200 mph (322 km/h) top speed, with the exception of the 1998 Porsche 911 GT1 which is not considered by enthusiasts to be an actual Porsche 911 due to its mid-mounted engine."

And he wasn't even pulling away that much! I talked to him afterward and he said he was surprised I kept up as well as I did. I thought he was just being a bit arrogant but his car is actually FAST.
They will pull away from a Z06, Gallardo, or GTRs on the straights. Oh, and they are about $200K.
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      09-28-2008, 09:22 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post
They will pull away from a Z06, Gallardo, or GTRs on the straights. Oh, and they are about $200K.
^+100, I tried running against one with my stock coupe and JB3 beta high boost running 91 oct. vs 08 911 Turbo on the freeway, and he just left me there after ~70 mph. My dream car btw.
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      09-28-2008, 09:27 AM   #27
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great add
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      09-28-2008, 09:54 AM   #28
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^+100, I tried running against one with my stock coupe and JB3 beta high boost running 91 oct. vs 08 911 Turbo on the freeway, and he just left me there after ~70 mph. My dream car btw.
Yup ,and the GT2 is lighter, and more powerful, with less driveline loss than a standard 911 Turbo. And about $60000 more too.
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      09-28-2008, 10:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post
They will pull away from a Z06, Gallardo, or GTRs on the straights. Oh, and they are about $200K.
i have read that the GTR will pull away from a porsche turbo in the straights AND the track, but did not know the GT2 was that much faster.

anyway, in my book: for around 100k, if u can get one, the GTR is the best car for the money by far.

my 2 cents
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      09-29-2008, 12:00 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T2x View Post
Well as far as recommendations go for the install:

Have the proper tools! A small flat head screwdriver is very important. Basically the kind you open watches with. You can actually use it for every step that doesn't involve removing 8 mm or 10 mm bolts. All the bolts you'll be removing in the engine are 8 mm and the one for the battery in the back is 10 mm. A picture of the screwdriver is here, it's the one right below the larger flat head and its all silver. http://www.minidolls.com/Blog/wirecontents.jpg

Make sure your car is cooled down so you don't burn yourself on the engine components.

Have a very good source of light, like one of those hanging lightbulbs(sorry don't know the name haha) that you can attack to the hooks on top of the hood.

Every step should not take too much force, everything comes apart pretty easily if you are doing it right so take the time to figure out whats wrong if somethings isn't coming out.

The ecu has 4 clips, 2 on the left side and 2 on the right, if you are looking at it from the front of the car to the back. They are connected to the black pieces of plastic on the sides of the ecu and you basically just stick your finger under the sides at both ends of the black plastic and push the clip towards whatever end of the plastic you are on to make it pop off. I couldn't figure this part out for a while because i kept thinking you had to somehow slide the black pieces but really there are just clips underneath them.

Once you have the ecu open, you need to maneuver your fingers around some wires in order to get to the sliders on each side of the DME's. They are the only big box connectors in the ecu really. You take the passenger side one out first by gripping the sides of the slider which have a big dip in them so you can grip it properly. As you slide the slider out, the connector comes off because the slider has an angled path which guides it out. The slider does have two little clips on the inside that stop it from coming out sometimes. I got it out once by pushing in the little holes that run along the slider to push the clips out of the way but eventually I figured out that if you wiggle it the right way it will just pop out. You get the driver side DME connector out the same way except it was a lot harder for me to do the right than to do the left for some reason.

Now that you have the big box connectors out, you can take the sliders that kept them in completely out of the DME connectors and put them aside. For the next step, you NEED the small flathead screwdriver. On the sides of the DME, the connectors slide out, but to get them out you need to take off the 1 clip for each one that holds them. The way to do this is first shine some light on the end of it so you can see the clip that I'm talking about. The walls around the sides of the connector are flat but at a certain point there is a small break and there is a piece that is pretty small and is actually a clip holding the edge of the connector from coming out. You just push the flathead into the space between that small clip and the connector and then push the end of the flat head up(if the clip is on top of the connector) to undo the clip and push the connector out a little bit all at the same time. then you can just use your finger nail to slide the connector out easily by pulling from the top and bottom of it towards you. None of the things you do with the flathead should take a lot of effort so if the connectors don't slide out easily, don't force it.

After you are all done getting the connectors out and hooking everything up, go back and look at the pictures and make sure all the wire colors match up. I made the mistake of attaching the white oem connector to the red jb3 connector, exactly what it said not to do in the online manual, but I didn't have it on hand so I didn't realize. Getting the big dme connectors back in is pretty easy if you are doing it right. You put the sliders back in but they have to be pulled out to a certain distance that you can feel if u pull back on them until they stop. Once its seated properly then you push the slider in and if everything is right the connector will start moving down and lock into place. If that doesn't happen or its too hard, check the seating and make sure you are doing it right as sometimes it can take a few wiggles to get it on right.

When you are putting the ecu cover back on, make sure that all the wires are folded down and out of the way so that you dont accidentally catch any of them with the hooks of the ecu cover. The ecu cover goes back on pretty easily once you get it in the right place. Make sure the 4 hooks on the dark plastic pieces are on the outsides of the connections on the bottom part of the ecu so that the seat properly. Once all 4 are in the right spots, you can just push down on the tops of the dark plastic in the corners and they will click in. Then you use the front and black sliders to lock it into place.

Getting the cowl back on properly was the hardest part for me. That's the part that is only held down by 2 bolts. You have to put it in at sort of a downward angle so that you can get the clips underneath the part that faces away from you to seat on the cushioning the runs along the edges of it. Make sure before you put the cowl in the the cushioning is pushed completely on. When the cowl goes on, it should basically wrap around that cushion pretty nicely. If you did it wrong then the air filter wont go back on. Make sure you have the flathead ready for getting the cable bundle back into the cowl as well as those clips are hard to get undone otherwise. Then make sure you push the rail with the other cables back in too and put the cover back on the rail if you took it off.

After all of that, everything else is pretty easy.

I definitely left out a lot of steps but just keep what I said in mind when you are doing the things I outlined.

Also, make sure you keep all your tools on a table or something away from the engine compartment so that you don't leave anything in there and then destroy your hood when you try to close it on a wrench or something.

Also, maybe make a checklist of the stuff you took off so you can be sure you put it back on before you start closing everything up.

Everything you do related to the install is only hard if you don't know what you are doing, after you figure out how everything works then its really not a big deal.

Good luck!
please tell me this is for the pin out. This was the most confusing thing I've ever read.
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      09-29-2008, 12:38 AM   #31
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      09-29-2008, 01:52 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post
Sending big manuals would only make the package a lot bigger and heavier, making shipping more of an issue. We should already be thankful of the fast shipping that Terry provides right now, because it is cheap enough for him. I'm sure if someone doesn't have access to a printer/computer, Terry would gladly ship out a set of instructions too.
or he can just make an online manual, put it on his sight as a downloadable pdf.
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      09-29-2008, 06:24 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vyruz Reaper View Post
or he can just make an online manual, put it on his sight as a downloadable pdf.
PDF's....

http://www.burgertuning.com/support.html
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      09-29-2008, 04:39 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistermojorizin View Post
please tell me this is for the pin out. This was the most confusing thing I've ever read.

Haha no its the plug and play. There are a lot of subtleties to the install that you have to grasp otherwise its going to be troublesome. It's not exactly the hardest install ever just for somebody who doesn't know what they are doing its confusing.

Put simply all you do is get into the ecu, unplug 4 connectors and after connecting the jb3 to those 4 and replacing the ones u pulled out of the ecu with the jb3 ones, you just close the ecu back up and you are done.

But of course you need to do things like disconnect the battery and stuff like that on the way.
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      09-30-2008, 06:40 PM   #35
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wow.. the review you posted seriously helped in my decision.. im hoping to order one next month
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      08-14-2009, 04:27 PM   #36
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I know this is an old post but I'm wondering how you like the JB3 a year later . I currently have the Active Autowerkes processor and I'm not too happy. It really hasn't produced what is advertised. It's a very safe tune but if there's something else out there a little more aggressive that won't kill my turbo's or motor I would love to know about it ! I've heard nothing but good things about the JB3 . Is it too much for the stock turbo's ?
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      08-14-2009, 06:14 PM   #37
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I've had my JB3 for over a year now and I love it. You can tailor how much boost you want to run by swapping through the various maps using the gas pedal. I'm running a beta version of the software, and it's even better than 1.3

Try it out, you can always return it if you don't like it (which is highly unlikely).
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      08-14-2009, 06:17 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackyl13 View Post
I know this is an old post but I'm wondering how you like the JB3 a year later . I currently have the Active Autowerkes processor and I'm not too happy. It really hasn't produced what is advertised. It's a very safe tune but if there's something else out there a little more aggressive that won't kill my turbo's or motor I would love to know about it ! I've heard nothing but good things about the JB3 . Is it too much for the stock turbo's ?
FYI

Here is some more info and what maps it currently comes with

http://www.n54tuning.com/index.php?_...d&productId=18

Mike
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      08-14-2009, 09:59 PM   #39
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Do you have any Dyno results ? I just did a Dyno run and produced 327 hp in 95 degree weather. I'm going to go out on a limb and add 15 more HP if the weather was 20 degrees cooler. I have Active exhaust, Active Processor, K&N air filter oem box ..My stock run was 286 hp , which is only a gain of 41 hp . The 41 HP is great but Active's website says 55 + and even more with there exhaust. I keep seeing everyone with the JB3 posting much better #'s ? I have noticed they all have down pipes ? How much of a difference do down pipes make ????
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      08-14-2009, 10:19 PM   #40
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Oh yeah I also have the AA Intercooler ! Not sure WHY I always forget this 1300.00 product !!!!!
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      08-14-2009, 10:24 PM   #41
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I dyno'd 385 whp/380 wtq with DCI, JB3/map 8 and 97 octane gas. I can look around for the dyno if you're interested. I haven't dyno'd since I added the rest of my mods however so I couldn't say how much the dp's added. They certainly made a difference with the butt dyno

JB3 ftw.
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      08-15-2009, 12:02 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A418t81 View Post
I've had my JB3 for over a year now and I love it. You can tailor how much boost you want to run by swapping through the various maps using the gas pedal. I'm running a beta version of the software, and it's even better than 1.3

Try it out, you can always return it if you don't like it (which is highly unlikely).
+1, i have mine almost a year, and it has been nothing but GREAT! Customer service is amazing aswell.
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      08-15-2009, 10:38 PM   #43
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Ok I'm convinced !!! Now the hard part having someone remove the AA processor and installing the JB3...any hook ups in South FL ?
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      08-16-2009, 04:03 AM   #44
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A year later and I'm loving it even more.

Back then it was pretty cool but looking back on it now I'm like wow it has come very far.

I mean it used to be I would compare my car to others based on how many car lengths I would beat them by but now it's more like how many seconds until I can't even see them in my rear view anymore

You could sort of compare it to a kid getting a new bike for christmas and he's super happy. Then for his 16th birthday he gets a car and now he's more like

I haven't had any problems with it or my car so that's a plus as well.

One thing I would recommend is that you do your oil change maybe 2 or 3 times more than the warranty covers. That way if you do 2 oil changes you can have BMW pay for one and you can pay for the other. Also I would recommend a less restricted intake so that the turbos don't have to work as hard. And of course ALWAYS make sure you get the best quality gas you can. I have been going to the same 76 gas station for the 2.5 years I've had my car and I would like to think that is the reason my HPFP hasn't died on me yet. *knocks on wood*

Anyway I know you will love the JB3 when you get it :]
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