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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > DIY-Changing spark plugs on e90 330i



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      08-11-2010, 10:54 AM   #45
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I just did this on my 06' 325i with 127,000 miles (original plugs since new)...

Went to Momentum West in Houston to pickup 6 new plugs (LIST: $37.25) at $21.96 each part number 12-12-0-035-915
Also picked up Microfilter (LIST: $85.42) at $50.92
Part number 64-31-9-142-115 3022A

Out the door for 6 new plugs and micro filter and tax: $197.75 NOT BAD!! Considering they charge $250 for microfilter change.

Anywho... The install went fine and my cold idle is 10000000 times better, power is better, gas mileage better, acceleration better. Its like a new car!

The new microfilter fixed my mister, I mean AC and also corrected my surging HVAC....

All this good news even with temps in the 108F the past week! I can't wait till it cools down.
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      08-11-2010, 10:56 AM   #46
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Forgot to add that some of the new plugs were NGK and some were BOSCH (same part numbers on each spark plug box). I would have cared if it were from an online retailer but since its straight from the horses mouth, I couldnt care less.
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      10-14-2010, 05:54 AM   #47
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so i replaced the plugs, just like on this diy
I bought new ngk ILZFR6D11 laser iridum, and original in car were bmw bosch r6
As soon as I started car, it went crazy, check engine flashed .. and there were numerus missfire CELs in cylinder 1,2,3. I turn it off and on, rev it a litle and it drive's ok. But when cold it has some issues idling and on low revs. Do I have to go to dealer to reset adaptations or something?
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      10-20-2010, 01:15 AM   #48
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The car going crazy and misfiring and all sounds like you got your spark polug wires all crossed over and on wrong cylinders....It's been five days what did go wrong??
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      10-20-2010, 12:03 PM   #49
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Looks like they're the wrong plugs for your car (assuming you installedmthem correctly). You can check the gaps by buying a gap tool and getting the gap specs for your car. Also check with NGK and make sure you have the right ones and that they were pre-gapped.
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      10-22-2010, 05:15 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashoverride View Post
The car going crazy and misfiring and all sounds like you got your spark polug wires all crossed over and on wrong cylinders....It's been five days what did go wrong??
I put old spark plugs back in, and same shit is happening, only when cold .. but car is in shop right now, they are trying to figure it out. I'll post updates.
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      10-22-2010, 05:23 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
Looks like they're the wrong plugs for your car (assuming you installedmthem correctly). You can check the gaps by buying a gap tool and getting the gap specs for your car. Also check with NGK and make sure you have the right ones and that they were pre-gapped.
plugs are correct, i checked on ngk configurator and on realoem.
These sparks are all pregaped.
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      10-22-2010, 05:56 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashoverride View Post
The car going crazy and misfiring and all sounds like you got your spark polug wires all crossed over and on wrong cylinders....It's been five days what did go wrong??
You can't cross up the plug wires on an N52. It coil-over-plug and there is no slack in the wire harness to put the coil on the wrong plug, or plug the wrong connector on the wrong coil.

My advice with experience maintaining my BMWs for the past 20 years is to only use OEM BMW parts.
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      10-24-2010, 07:34 PM   #53
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Thanks for the DIY - I changed my plugs this weekend, and it would have taken a lot longer without this guide. It took me longer than I thought, but I divided the work into two mornings, and was careful enough to avoid breaking anything for once - some bits had already been broken (by BMW).

A couple things I learned along the way:

Step 3: The wiring harness literally pulls straight out towards the rad. There doesn't seem to be any release clips.

Step 7: You need to (carefully) lift the brackets on top of the coils all the way up to a full 90 degrees. As it goes from 75 to 90 degrees, it is unlocking the wiring harness. Likewise, when you put it back together, the bracket needs to close down to bring the plug all the way into the coil. For some of the coils, there is not a lot of room to remove the wiring - but it's easier if you lift the coil partially out first.

Step 11: After replacing 3 plugs, I started the car for a brief time to see if everything was alright so far - you could do this after each plug if you want to know if there are any problems - but I suspect you want to keep the engine as cold as possible - it might affect the torque values if you change the plugs in a hot engine? Anyway, I didn't want to re-assemble everything just to find out I did something wrong on the rear plug....

Now for the old plugs - 100K (km) or 62K miles...they look ok to me, maybe they could have gone all the way to 160K. The plug from cylinder #3 is a bit suspicious, maybe some expert here can say. Car runs fine after the change, maybe a subtle improvement. I'll need a little time to be sure.

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      01-10-2011, 12:27 PM   #54
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just changed my spark plugs using this DIY on Thursday night after racking up 89K miles on my stock plugs. Stock plugs were pretty much fried, causing a misfire on cylinders 1 and 4.

Once replacing my old plugs with new Bosch OE plugs, i had new CEL codes on my E90 in addition to the shakes and misfire when idling. It's now Monday and the car seems to be idling better. CEL went away this morning (monday) as well.

Thanks for the DIY!
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      02-02-2011, 05:53 PM   #55
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Used this DIY today, worked perfectly. The illustrations and instructions were right on par. Thanks.
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      02-16-2011, 12:03 PM   #56
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has anyone tried Autolite XP5325 Iridium plugs? Stated as OE replacement with .040 gap.
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      03-20-2011, 01:40 PM   #57
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Anyone know what foot lbs of torque needed?
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      03-23-2011, 11:43 AM   #58
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      03-23-2011, 12:30 PM   #59
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step 9 listed it at 30 nm not sure what that is equate to ft lbs. It tells you on the OEM sparkplug paper box.
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      03-23-2011, 06:39 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03 View Post
step 9 listed it at 30 nm not sure what that is equate to ft lbs. It tells you on the OEM sparkplug paper box.
I got the 30nm but My torque wrench is ft lbs... and I dont have the OEM box... I ordered the NGK ILZFR6D11.. Then read I needed the new NGK PLZFR6A-11S so thats what Im waiting on now. I bought my plugs off amazon great price 13.62 each
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      03-23-2011, 10:09 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klove83 View Post
I got the 30nm but My torque wrench is ft lbs... and I dont have the OEM box... I ordered the NGK ILZFR6D11.. Then read I needed the new NGK PLZFR6A-11S so thats what Im waiting on now. I bought my plugs off amazon great price 13.62 each
according to google, 30 nm = 22 ft lbs

http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html

But you need to follow the NGK specification but I don't know.
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      03-26-2011, 09:49 AM   #62
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With a crush washer, torquing them isn't so straight forward. I turned them in until they were tight, and then gave them another 1/4 of a turn exactly, which crushes the washer and provides a lock-nut type of effect. I didn't use a torque wrench (and I torque everything to spec.), it is more critical to get the right amount of crush to the washer.
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      04-03-2011, 07:54 PM   #63
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Hello, I know this is my first post and all, however I am hardly new to the BMW scene.

I am questioning the use of anti seize on the plug threads,
I have used it before, and I understand the possible chance of a plug seizing in the head.. but?

one, was there antiseize on the plugs you pulled out from the factory ? yes or no ?

two, Porsche recently issued a service bulletin advising not to use anti sieze compound anymore because of its non-conducive properties, they have found it can interfere with getting a proper ground on the electrode,

Would anyone care to shed any light on this ?

thanks
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      04-05-2011, 08:47 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Zoidberg View Post
Hello, I know this is my first post and all, however I am hardly new to the BMW scene.

I am questioning the use of anti seize on the plug threads,
I have used it before, and I understand the possible chance of a plug seizing in the head.. but?

one, was there antiseize on the plugs you pulled out from the factory ? yes or no ?

two, Porsche recently issued a service bulletin advising not to use anti sieze compound anymore because of its non-conducive properties, they have found it can interfere with getting a proper ground on the electrode,

Would anyone care to shed any light on this ?

thanks
Any1 here who is BMW tech have any info on this. I am curious. There are lots of photos on old plugs in this thread but how can you tell if it has anti seize from factory? Look @ post #5 and 53 for photos of old plugs.
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      04-07-2011, 02:53 PM   #65
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The final answer is.....

DO NOT use the regular silver/gray antisieze,

BMW recommends using a LIGHT coating on COPPER based anti seize.

-that is all
- carry on
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      06-18-2011, 04:04 PM   #66
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1st, thanks OP, awesome DIY!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin Jason View Post
can i do this diy with a 325i also?
Yes. See my experience below

Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyF View Post
txusa03,

What did you set the spark plug gap to?

Per manufacturer's web page, I found NGK ILZFR6D11 plugs are set for 0.044" and Bosch FR7NP332 are set for 0.040".

Also, both NGK and Bosch are HEX(6 sided) plugs. Why do you need a 12 point 5/8 socket?

Thanks

wallyf
+1 Bosch FR7NP332 are set for 0.040
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Wilson View Post
I just used this guide and it worked very well. Feel free to put the screwdriver through the top of the coil and use it as a bar if you need some help pulling it out. Oh and watch all the little clips under the cowling because they break easy. Nothing a little superglue won't fix though.


Jesse
+1, see pics below

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw6953 View Post
Its the exact same process for the 325i. I belive its even the same spark plug. I used a standard 5/8 socket and it worked just fine for me, no need for a 12 point socket, or spcial bmw socket. Just make sure the plug is gapped correctly and use a torque wrench.
+1, except I didn't use a torque wrench. Also OEM for the 325i is Bosch FR7NP332 and the gap is 0.040.

Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
Plugs come pre-gapped from the factory.
Don't rely on that. My plugs were supposedly pre-gapped because they are oem, but I checked the gap and they were all over the place. This might be a reason why some members are having problems when they start 'er up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Zoidberg View Post
Hello, I know this is my first post and all, however I am hardly new to the BMW scene.

I am questioning the use of anti seize on the plug threads,
I have used it before, and I understand the possible chance of a plug seizing in the head.. but?

one, was there antiseize on the plugs you pulled out from the factory ? yes or no ?
thanks
Yes, when I removed the oem plugs they had anti-seize on them. It didn't smell like oil and it was little slippery and clear.

Just did this today. As Jesse Wilson stated, use a screwdriver to flip up the coil and then place the screwdriver in the hole of the coil to use as leverage (see pics below).

Also, I wasn't comfortable removing plugs 5 and 6 with the strut brace there, so I moved it out of the way by removing the nut using a 7/16 socket. (see the first pic). Just unloosen the nut and push it up and over the red battery connection.

Again, OP, thank you!
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Last edited by Chriztofor; 06-18-2011 at 04:17 PM.
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