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      04-15-2006, 06:03 AM   #1
325ie90
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V1 hardwiring through fusebox

Does anyone have a detailed DIY to hardwire the valentine one radar detector through the fusebox?

I tried searching but could only find the hardwiring through the lighting console.
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      04-15-2006, 10:37 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 325ie90
Does anyone have a detailed DIY to hardwire the valentine one radar detector through the fusebox?

I tried searching but could only find the hardwiring through the lighting console.
Hey I hardwired my Passport 8500 x50 to the fuse box, was thinking of writing a DIY but didn't get a chance. But I can give you a really quick heads up on what I did...

Radar detector right of rear view mirror. Ran wire under headliner to right A-pillar. Ran wire down black flap that lifts up all the way down to next to the glove compartment. Went left from there through a hole that comes out right in front of fuse box. Tried normal conventional fuse holders, that didn't work. Got pissed off, then decided to take a trip to Auto Zone. Bought this thing you should buy:http://www.anythinggps.com/browsepro...-100-Pack.HTML at autozone (get the mini fuse version, $7) It adds another fuse to the system, the instructions in the package do a very good job explaining how it works. Its a very clean install. I used the PDC/Homelink fuse, so the detector goes on and off when you turn the engine on and off. This should get you started post questions if you have them. It was a pain in the butt, especially getting to the fuse box through the glove compartment.

Oh, the positive side of the wire I used the adapter in the link above, the negative side I put an eyelet on and put under the light silver torx bolt on the left as a ground..

Everything works beautifully...
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Last edited by Josh49; 05-08-2006 at 06:02 PM.
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      04-15-2006, 11:45 PM   #3
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I did almost the same as the above technique except I went down the right A-pillar (passenger side). It's a much shorter trip and easier to get to the glove box. Running to the fuse compartment vs. map light area also allows the installation of a concealed display (for V1) or SmartCord remote (8500) much easier.
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      04-16-2006, 09:34 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimf15e
I did almost the same as the above technique except I went down the right A-pillar (passenger side). It's a much shorter trip and easier to get to the glove box. Running to the fuse compartment vs. map light area also allows the installation of a concealed display (for V1) or SmartCord remote (8500) much easier.
Hey good call. I went down the right a-pillar too. I was typing too fast on that post.. Its fixed now..
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      04-20-2006, 11:06 PM   #5
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I guess im better of to go to a shop and install it unless someone has step by step photos of installation. Any ideas how much it will cost?
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      04-21-2006, 07:41 AM   #6
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Its really not that hard, I highly suggest you do it on your own and save yourself some serious cash. I can take pictures for you of any of the steps if you need. Start at the radar detector (put it on the windshield), go across the headliner, down the right a-pillar (put wire under black flap that lifts up), and into the box to the fuse box. Very simple so far, and half the work is done. I went through a little gap underneatch the glove box which comes out directly in front of the fuse box. Now open your glove compartment, turn screw on each side to take off back cover (1/2 turn loosens it, they're not normal screws just locks). Negative side of your wire put an eyelet ($1 at radio shack, bring the bolt so you can get the right size one) on and put this under the bolt. Buy that one part I reccomended (make sure to buy the one for the mini fuse), and use the pdc/homelink fuse location. Turn on your car and see if it powers up, if not pull out the fuse thing and turn it around 180 degrees. That part explains it in the directions..

PM me if you have any questions, or post here. it took a while to figure out since I didn't know where anything was, if your car was here I could do it in 5 minutes now..

Try it on your own for a few, struggle a little maybe, you'll get it. Then you have the money in your wallet, and the satisfaction of doing your own work. I'd say if you looked at any part of my install it looks 100% clean and professional...

Good luck..
Josh
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      04-23-2006, 01:54 AM   #7
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Is it possible for someone to post a photo guide like the one on this thread http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...age=8&pp=22,if it is not too much of a hassle. I was looking for a simple guide that even a 8 yr old kid can do.
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      05-15-2006, 09:43 AM   #8
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Josh49 thanks for the valuable suggestions ! I did this install yesterday in about 45 minutes. I did not want to tap the wires in the light assembly like others were doing, as wiring to the fuse box is a far better option and reversible if there is ever any question of modifications vs. warrantee. The only thing that was unclear from your posts was where you attached the ground in the area of the fuse box. I spent a lot of time looking for a good candidate existing screw in the fuse box area, without finding a good option. I finally just drilled a hole in the metal support bar that runs in front of the fuse box (the one the wire bundle is attached to) and used a bolt and nut with some locktite to hold the eyelet.

I should have taken pictures for 325ie90. This is a REALLY simple installation and is very clean. The hardest part was working within the confines of the fuse box (I'm a pretty big guy - and upside down under dashboards has never been easy for me). If I have a chance tonight, I'll take a few pics and post them here to help everybody out.
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      05-18-2006, 04:39 PM   #9
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Hardwire Installation Pics

OK - I said I'd post pics - here they are

First- mount the V1 where you want it on the windshield, I chose just left of the mirror. The telephone wire can then be easily tucked between the headliner and the windshield with just fingertips to push it in. Route it across the windshield to the right side until you get to the place where the headliner meets the separation with the A-pillar cover (point A in second pic).

Put your fingers behind the black rubber moulding at the door side of the A-pillar (at B) and push behind the seam from A - B. The headliner can be gently pulled out enough to open up the gap so that you can feed the telephone wire behind it. You can then push the headliner back in without showing any change or separation.

Route the telephone wire behind the black rubber moulding until you get down to the glove compartment (third pic). Fitting it between the gap is pretty simple.

Once you are in the glove compartment (pic 4), placing the Fuse Tap and the V1 Hardwire adapter is very straight forward. Crimp the Fuse Tap red wire to the red wire of the V1 Hardwire Adapter. I also used the fuse for PDC / Homelink (third from right side in the second row of fuses - see the fuse map card in the compartment for details). Remove the 5 amp fuse that is in that slot and place it in the A slot of the Fuse Tap. I used a 3 amp fuse for the V1 because that was the lowest one I had - even though the V1 only requires a 1 amp fuse. I have since replaced the 3 with a 1. For the black ground wire, crimp on an eyelet connector, and I drilled a hole in the metal brace and used a #8 bolt and nut to attach it, secured with some locktite.

I mounted the Hardwire adapter to the sidewall of the fuse compartment using the supplied velcro (pic 5). The phone wire plugs in to the Hardwire adapter in the main slot. If I choose to later, it will be very simple to add the Remote Display - just plug it in to the Accessory slot.

Very simple installation - Thanks very much to Josh49's original post for the initial info - I hope that this helps any of you considering doing this for yourself.
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      05-18-2006, 07:29 PM   #10
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Good job.. Thank you for the pics.
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      05-18-2006, 10:05 PM   #11
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You guys are really making my day! My V1 came in today and I'm already tired of that cord dangling down. Looks like I found a project for tomorrow...
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      05-19-2006, 06:03 AM   #12
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Just a heads up, the torx bolt to the left of where you added the screw can be used as ground as well... (it's hard to get around in the fuse box)..

Nice pictures though, you use a SWAT fiber optic camera to take the ones inside the fuse box??
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      05-19-2006, 07:00 AM   #13
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Can you guys explain to me what the difference is between this type of hardwire and one that simply taps the power to the sunroof (which is what I have done)?

The latter seems much simpler.
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      05-19-2006, 07:24 AM   #14
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IMO, I think this is much "cleaner", and much more professional. I always hardwire my accessories such as my radar detector, dash light (Volunteer Fire) through the fuse box. Using the fuse tap shown here, the radar detector is also protected with its own fuse. If I wire to a fuse box, I know exactly what I am getting, and what electricity I am getting. Tapping into random wires for the sunroof, etc, I am unconfident with the power I will be getting, and potentially damaging the radar unit ($300 - $400). If I make a mistake taking this route I buy a new fuse (3 fuses / $2 ). This is my reasoning...

Quote:
Originally Posted by petesamprs
The latter seems much simpler.
I have to disagree with this as well. A lot of people were having problems taking the sunroof control panel off, some claiming after an hour its still not off, and they damaged their headliner. Others are having power problems, and the radar detector doesn't work when the sunroof is opening, etc. People are confused what wires to tap into... To sum it up, I thought this was a sketchy way to get something done, and I didn't think twice before choosing the other route. Hardwiring to the fuse box I could get done in 5 minutes, and to me is the "right way" to get it done...
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      05-19-2006, 08:30 AM   #15
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Which fuse do you tap into? Is the pink fuse the original fuse you tapped into or is it the one you added?

Edit: Nevermind! Saw the answer above which I missed last night.
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      05-19-2006, 08:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh49
IMO, I think this is much "cleaner", and much more professional. I always hardwire my accessories such as my radar detector, dash light (Volunteer Fire) through the fuse box. Using the fuse tap shown here, the radar detector is also protected with its own fuse. If I wire to a fuse box, I know exactly what I am getting, and what electricity I am getting. Tapping into random wires for the sunroof, etc, I am unconfident with the power I will be getting, and potentially damaging the radar unit ($300 - $400). If I make a mistake taking this route I buy a new fuse (3 fuses / $2 ). This is my reasoning...


I have to disagree with this as well. A lot of people were having problems taking the sunroof control panel off, some claiming after an hour its still not off, and they damaged their headliner. Others are having power problems, and the radar detector doesn't work when the sunroof is opening, etc. People are confused what wires to tap into... To sum it up, I thought this was a sketchy way to get something done, and I didn't think twice before choosing the other route. Hardwiring to the fuse box I could get done in 5 minutes, and to me is the "right way" to get it done...
Fair points. Thanks.

I actually think the sunroof install is "cleaner" since the wire goes right up into the headliner and not across the whole windshield, down the A pillar and into the fuse box. I agree with your point about the power source uncertainty, but after many BMW owners have successfully used this source for many years, along with the board members here, that concern was alleviated. Lastly, with regards to the install, I guess it's all relative...I can do the sunroof hardwire within 15 minutes.

Regardless, it's great having options, so nice work.
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      05-19-2006, 09:49 AM   #17
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Good point... I agree after doing most installs when going back you could probably do them in 5 minutes.. But yes in any case, awesome cars, awesome detectors, good times...



Quick question - I've been thinking lately of switching to the valentine 1. The e90 is such a solid car, my 8500 x50 is really starting to tick me off with the rattling. I've tried just about everything to make that a more solid connection. I love the 8500 but man is it irritating in such a quiet, solid car. How quiet/solid/firm is the v1 mount. I've heard good things about it..
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      05-19-2006, 11:40 AM   #18
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Josh49 - I think the V1 mount is very solid - if you place it correctly - it uses the 2 suction cups with a third contact point of a rubber strip across the front of the detector. It is adjustable in the mounting clip - so all you need to do is put the suction cups to the windshield and then slide the detector forward (it has a toothed catch to hold it in place) until the rubber contacts the windshield. Then you have three-point contact and it stays pretty solid. It is a little sensitive to getting the 2 suction cups level so that the front rubber strip sits flush across the windshield, but a couple of tries and I figured it out. The adjustment slide allows you to mount it so that the V1 is level front to back and that squaring it up with the windshield makes it solid and vibration free. I've taken some pretty healthy bumps without the detector vibrating. The V1 is awesome in its functionality - I'm glad I spent the money.

I didn't use the Torx screw mostly because I didn't see it until I looked at the pictures ! But in general, I don't like to loosen any factory connectors if I don't have to - I hate rattles. Thus the locktite on my own connection.

As far as the pics - just used a Canon ELF - at 2048 x 1536 - then edited the pics in Photoshop, cropping and scaling to smaller image sizes.
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      05-19-2006, 11:59 AM   #19
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petesamprs - I understand how you might feel that keeping the wires all within the light enclosure is the "cleanest" - but that space is pretty cramped to begin with, the bundle of wires that you have to access to get the correct power lead is neatly bound before you start messing with it, and the problems that many people have had with getting adequate ground are all troublesome to me.

My biggest problem with that install method is the crimp-on tap for the power lead. Those types of taps actually slice through the insulation on the wire that it is tapping, getting its power feed from the "blades" contacting the conductor. I don't want any of the wires in my precious car cut in any way if I can avoid it - Bimmers are already known to have their share of electrical problems and I don't want to be the cause of one. Plugging the Fuse Tap into the fuse block is actually double protection - the original circuit is still protected by its original fuse, and the new circuit has its own separate fuse. It is drawing its power directly from the fuse block supply which comes from the battery, and thus is reasonably isolated from any interference on any other circuit. This is "clean" power in my opinion.

The routing of the wires, while it is a further distance, is very hidden and unnoticable - and can be very easily removed without any disturbance to any of the car's components. All wiring connections are hidden behind the fuse door, but are easily accessable in case a fuse blows etc. And the final benefit is that it will be equally easy to route the single wire to the glove box / V1 hardwire adapter if I ever decide to add the remote display module for greater stealth operations. If it was in the light enclosure, I'd have to rip that sucker open again just to replace the fuse.

The great thing is - now there are illustrated instructions for both install methods here on e90Post - each user can choose the DIY that suits them best !
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      05-19-2006, 12:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bilbarstow
Josh49 - I think the V1 mount is very solid - if you place it correctly - it uses the 2 suction cups with a third contact point of a rubber strip across the front of the detector. It is adjustable in the mounting clip - so all you need to do is put the suction cups to the windshield and then slide the detector forward (it has a toothed catch to hold it in place) until the rubber contacts the windshield. Then you have three-point contact and it stays pretty solid. It is a little sensitive to getting the 2 suction cups level so that the front rubber strip sits flush across the windshield, but a couple of tries and I figured it out. The adjustment slide allows you to mount it so that the V1 is level front to back and that squaring it up with the windshield makes it solid and vibration free. I've taken some pretty healthy bumps without the detector vibrating. The V1 is awesome in its functionality - I'm glad I spent the money.

I didn't use the Torx screw mostly because I didn't see it until I looked at the pictures ! But in general, I don't like to loosen any factory connectors if I don't have to - I hate rattles. Thus the locktite on my own connection.

As far as the pics - just used a Canon ELF - at 2048 x 1536 - then edited the pics in Photoshop, cropping and scaling to smaller image sizes.
Thanks for the response.. I have been reading over the V1 webpage more and more, I know I shouldn't pull the trigger, but I want to so bad. So we'll see what happens.. 3 points of contact sounds like a much more stable design, and I kind of want the arrows..

Did you drill/tap your new ground hole? If so I'm very impressed you got in there like that, I could barely fit my arm in..
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      05-19-2006, 02:17 PM   #21
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Josh49 - yes, I drilled the hole, but didn't tap it. I used a stainless steel bolt with a nut on the back side with a star washer and locktite to keep it from vibrating loose. As you note, it was a tight fit, but a motivated installer can accomplish anything.

If you do go for the V1, I can tell you the Arrows are totally worth it ! just knowing the direction of the bogey gives you a lot of insight on the level of threat. If I'm driving past a grocery and the right arrow comes up, it's a pretty good bet I'm being clocked by an automatic door opener !
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      05-19-2006, 04:07 PM   #22
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Sweet...just wired mine up. Took about 15 minutes. Took longer to find the fuse tap...apparently autozone is the only auto parts store that carries them.

BTW, I found the perfect tool for help tucking the phone cord behind the black rubber and behind the pillar cover...a paint can opener! Try it, it really helps!
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