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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > V1 hardwiring through fusebox



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      10-11-2007, 04:54 PM   #243
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Hard to say snare, depends on your dealer but yeh sure they could point the finger at a future problem at your radar detector wiring if you let them.

Mine is hardwired with the fusetap and can be removed completey with no trace bback to stock in <5 mins. That said, I dont plan on doing it for regular service. If I have an electrical problem, sure I will spend the time and remove it prior to bringing it in.
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      10-11-2007, 06:42 PM   #244
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Well, I went and bought the mini fuse adaptor at Autosone today - $8. It comes with fuses down to 3amps. They suggested RadioShack to find a 1amp fuse. Hopefully tomorrow I can give the install a try. I'm going to get an updated V1 since mine is still the larger olderversion, albeit software v1.7 which is still supposed to be fine. But for $189 the smaller size and updated software is nice. Thankfully I live just an hour north of Cincinnati where they are, so I'm just going to drive down and swap it out. Of course it looks like I could sell my current one on ebay and end up paying less in the end if I just bought a new one outright. Anyone want to buy a V1?
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      10-12-2007, 09:30 AM   #245
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Did some further work on the V1 install last night....

I decided I wanted the remote display where the ashtray was instead of foam taped below the console. For thiefs and when I eventually do get pulled over its nice to be able to close the lid for complete stealth.

I removed the metal ashtray insert and then removed the gearshift boot, popped the surrounding trimpiece off and proceeded to deattach the ashtray assembly according to the sunglass holder mod DIY.

For the ultraclean install I decided to enlarge a hole in the back of the ashtay assembly w a dremel to run the cord through. I put everything back together and it looks great. I will post pics later.
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      10-12-2007, 12:12 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruz View Post
Did some further work on the V1 install last night....

I decided I wanted the remote display where the ashtray was instead of foam taped below the console. For thiefs and when I eventually do get pulled over its nice to be able to close the lid for complete stealth.

I removed the metal ashtray insert and then removed the gearshift boot, popped the surrounding trimpiece off and proceeded to deattach the ashtray assembly according to the sunglass holder mod DIY.

For the ultraclean install I decided to enlarge a hole in the back of the ashtay assembly w a dremel to run the cord through. I put everything back together and it looks great. I will post pics later.
Thats how I did mine. Posted some pics of it in some other thread.
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      10-12-2007, 12:18 PM   #247
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I really wouldn't worry about V1 wiring and warranty. It's just tapping a 12v power lead.

Put the concealed display in the AC vent! I really like where mine is and how close it is to the gauges / eye level. I prefer that a lot more compared to the ashtray area where I tried it. And it's still stealth in the vent as you cannot see it unless you are REALLY looking and the vents are facing you.
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      10-12-2007, 01:45 PM   #248
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I rememeber the vent pics....I just want the mute button accessible and im no that ambitous.
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      10-12-2007, 01:54 PM   #249
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I think I saw it somewherein the previous 12 pages of this thread, but which fuse # is it that I should use?
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      10-12-2007, 05:38 PM   #250
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Nevermind - found the correct fuse from the instructions on the first page. Done! I'm way not inclined in this area, but in the end it was fairly simple. I had to go buy a torx bit for the ground screw and a little electrical tape to hold the wire from the V1 adaptor into the fuse tap. The fuse part was extremely easy!. Thanks for whomever pointed out the fuse picker tool. I wouldn't have found that. I wasn't quite ready to take the A-pillar off though to run the wire behind it.

Overall, definitely doable as a DIY. Thanks again for all the great tips and picrures!
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      10-12-2007, 06:08 PM   #251
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You have to crimp the V1 power wire to the fuse tap... Or else it might fall out.

When you feel inclined to do the a-pillar, just pull off that little airbag tag, and there's a torx screw behind there. And then the whole thing comes off.

I would suggest you invest in a full torx bit set with this car, tons of torx bits all over the place.
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      10-12-2007, 06:10 PM   #252
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Quote:
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You have to crimp the V1 power wire to the fuse tap... Or else it might fall out.

When you feel inclined to do the a-pillar, just pull off that little airbag tag, and there's a torx screw behind there. And then the whole thing comes off.

I would suggest you invest in a full torx bit set with this car, tons of torx bits all over the place.
Yea, I did crimp it, but was still a little leery of it falling out, so I just put some electrical tape around it to hold it in.

I think I got a set of 5ish torx bits, so hopefully I'll be covered if I decide to press on.

I was just happy when I turned the car on and the V1 turned on along with it.
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      10-20-2007, 10:13 PM   #253
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OK, stupid question here... to connect the fuse tap to the red wire of the V1 direct wire adaptor, did you all cut off the little blade attachment that was on the end of the red wire and expose the copper? Then inserted that into the fuse tap and squeezed? I was thinking I'd use the blue 3M connector thing. Thanks.
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      10-22-2007, 09:05 AM   #254
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Yes...no need for the 3m splicer.
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      10-22-2007, 12:56 PM   #255
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Quote:
"Put your fingers behind the black rubber moulding at the door side of the A-pillar (at B) and push behind the seam from A - B. The headliner can be gently pulled out enough to open up the gap so that you can feed the telephone wire behind it. You can then push the headliner back in without showing any change or separation."
Note in the picture this may cross the deploymet zone of your side curtain airbag Anyone got a pic or digram of this so that the V1 does not become a projectile if the bags deploy?
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      10-22-2007, 01:11 PM   #256
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Don't have a pic, but I would very much recommend people doing this install to remove the a-pillar cover and tuck the wire behind the airbag. There are a bunch of other wires back there as well so you can just zip tie the wire back there. I'd have to have my V1 become a projectile when the airbag snags that wire and flings the V1 into my head. Bet that'd hurt.
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      10-22-2007, 01:16 PM   #257
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If you guys run the wire down the front of the a-pillar and then down around the dash cowl to the glovebox, there is no way of getting snagged on the airbag.
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      10-22-2007, 04:47 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperM3 View Post
If you guys run the wire down the front of the a-pillar and then down around the dash cowl to the glovebox, there is no way of getting snagged on the airbag.
That is what I did.
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      10-24-2007, 02:01 PM   #259
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Late to the party but just a FYI, there are A-pillar removal pics w/V1 wiring down the bundle at post #175.
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      10-25-2007, 05:01 PM   #260
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Yes...no need for the 3m splicer.
Trying to do this here, but why wouldn't you use the 3M splicer, if it came with it. You don't have to cut any wires?
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      10-26-2007, 10:01 AM   #261
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Its been a while, but if I recall correctly the 3M splicer is provided to tap into a powered wire (ex: those that use the dome light power source).

If you go the Fusetap route the 3M splicer is just another unnecessary piece to clog up your clean install. I guess you could use the 3M thing instead of crimping the Fusetap.
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      10-28-2007, 11:15 PM   #262
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OK, so I went with the remove-A-pillar-so-the-cable-doesn't-block-the-airbag route. Putting the A-pillar cover panel back on was quite a challenge. Somehow eventually I got it back on, but is there a trick to put it back on? I had trouble putting the bottom of the panel into the little slots.

It's nice to have the power cable concealed. Nice and neat.
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      10-30-2007, 11:20 PM   #263
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Quote:
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OK, so I went with the remove-A-pillar-so-the-cable-doesn't-block-the-airbag route. Putting the A-pillar cover panel back on was quite a challenge. Somehow eventually I got it back on, but is there a trick to put it back on? I had trouble putting the bottom of the panel into the little slots.

It's nice to have the power cable concealed. Nice and neat.
Gentle force and wiggling. I really didn't have much trouble getting it back in place. Perhaps the allowances are looser on my car?
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      12-28-2007, 05:14 PM   #264
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I just hardwired my V1 using the fuse tap method. I'm pretty sure I tapped into the homelink fuse, but the V1 stays on even when the car is off (so for now I just turn off the V1 when the car is off)... does this mean I am not using the right fuse? The little map of fuses tells me I'm using the right one... or so I think.

whats going on here? I just want the V1 to turn on when the car turns on, and turn off when the car turns off.
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