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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > V1 hardwiring through fusebox



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      12-27-2008, 02:37 AM   #375
Choolgooz
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Thanks to all those who contributed to this. Especially the guys on the first page, I was able to use the Fusebox technique w/ a passport 9500i.
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      12-27-2008, 09:58 AM   #376
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nice write up
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      12-27-2008, 09:59 AM   #377
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i did it with my 8500. the only thing that was confusing was the fuse tap.

i used a 7.5 for the mirror, and a 2 for the radar. so im still under the 10 limit.
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      01-19-2009, 06:40 PM   #378
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sorry for the noob question, but do I need to have two fuses plugged into my add-a-circuit for it to work? The original one, and the one for the accessory i'm powering? Which fuse can I use for constant power?

Last edited by oct1285; 01-19-2009 at 08:01 PM.
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      01-20-2009, 12:54 AM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oct1285 View Post
sorry for the noob question, but do I need to have two fuses plugged into my add-a-circuit for it to work? The original one, and the one for the accessory i'm powering? Which fuse can I use for constant power?
yes, you need 2 fuse blades, one for your PDC (or w/e slot you are tapping) and 2nd for the V1.
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      01-20-2009, 06:44 AM   #380
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Originally Posted by akack79 View Post
yes, you need 2 fuse blades, one for your PDC (or w/e slot you are tapping) and 2nd for the V1.
does the combined total for these two fuses have to be under 10?
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      01-21-2009, 10:59 AM   #381
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does the combined total for these two fuses have to be under 10?
Yes I believe so. I got the extra blade from Advanced Auto Parts (unfortunately it came in a bundle of about 10 blades, I have extras so if you happen to be in Austin I can give you one).
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      01-27-2009, 07:43 AM   #382
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can this be the same fuse (#28) to hook up a remote turn on lead wire to an amplifier i wanted to hook up my v1 and my amp wire to the same to avoid more clutter. any ideas? or would the stereo fuse be better for my purpose?
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      02-04-2009, 04:47 PM   #383
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Just did the hardwire... took me 1.5 hours to do the V1 hardwire along with the concealed display (located by instrument cluster). If you read this thread thoroughly before doing the hard wire, you will have 0 problems.

Fuse #28 worked perfectly for me.

Also, people wonder what fuse they should use for the V1... just use the fuse in the cigarette lighter power adapter (2amp) or use the spare fuse included with the V1 (2amp also)

I placed the concealed display right in front of my gas gauge (you can still see where the needle is pointing generally, and you have the "Range" function on the car anyways, so you don't really need to see exactly where the gas needle is pointing)... The included trulock attachment tape is like, 1 cm thick, so instead I used a paper-thin layer of sticky tack that holds the display secure VERY well... best of all, it won't leave a mark on the trim and is completely removable!!

Some pictures
Can you spot it?


Interior shot of concealed display in front of gauge cluster and the V1 to the right of the rear view mirror


Driver's view


Yeah, you can see a little of the yellow sticky tack I used


The V1
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Last edited by skim7x; 02-04-2009 at 05:18 PM.
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      02-15-2009, 03:55 PM   #384
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Hey guys,

Just did this today, worked out great. One recommendation, once you get the wire down the A pillar you can pop off the trim piece of the edge of the dash to allow you to see down and route the wire from the bottom of the A pillar into the fuse box. This way you don't have to hide it behind the door trim.



Great instructions, thanks!

Dan
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      02-15-2009, 07:32 PM   #385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmurray14 View Post
Hey guys,

Just did this today, worked out great. One recommendation, once you get the wire down the A pillar you can pop off the trim piece of the edge of the dash to allow you to see down and route the wire from the bottom of the A pillar into the fuse box. This way you don't have to hide it behind the door trim.



Great instructions, thanks!

Dan

How did you remove the trim piece from the edge of the dash and how hard was it?

I tried to fish one end of a phone jack from the opening on top of the dash with the a-pilar removed with a coat hanger and managed to break one end of the phone line off

Now it'd be nice to remove it thru the edge of the dash pop method.
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      02-15-2009, 08:32 PM   #386
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Quote:
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How did you remove the trim piece from the edge of the dash and how hard was it?

I tried to fish one end of a phone jack from the opening on top of the dash with the a-pilar removed with a coat hanger and managed to break one end of the phone line off

Now it'd be nice to remove it thru the edge of the dash pop method.
Just stuck a small flathead screwdriver behind it and pryed back gently til it popped. Put some electrical tape on the end of the screwdriver so you don't mar the interior. Quick and easy!
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      02-16-2009, 12:45 AM   #387
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You can also pull off the felt/rubber door trim piece(it just slips off) and route the cable behind that dash trim, without having to remove anything. You will see what I mean if you do pull it off. Personally I think its the easiest method.
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      06-05-2009, 08:59 AM   #388
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Hi guys,
I have noticed that BMW is cutting costs and 2009 year 320i does not have a power socket in the passenger footwell (to power the navigator for example). There is a hole in the plastic trim for it but no power socket! I want to diy a power socket under the passenger footwell. Can I use the connection shown in this thread (to the adjacent fuse box) to power my socket? What size fuse should I use in the mini fuse adapter? Thanks for your reply in advance.
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      06-05-2009, 09:44 AM   #389
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I hardwired my V1 this past weekend with help from information in this thread. I used the fuse tap from Autozone as was recommended. Many thanks to the contributors to this thread.

The hardest part was finding the correct fuse slot to use. For my 09 E90, I used fuse #8, which is the cig lighter fuse I believe.
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      06-06-2009, 07:47 PM   #390
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Thanks for all the help in this thread guys!

I did this yesterday with my 8500 and it took about 40 minutes. I used Fuse 21 (it was open) and it worked like a champ, first try! (that never happens!)

A great help!
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      06-29-2009, 02:58 PM   #391
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Just found this thread...

Getting this done... TONIGHT!

Thanks for everyones input!
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      06-29-2009, 03:01 PM   #392
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very nice ill def do this when i get my car
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      06-29-2009, 06:57 PM   #393
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I have the best luck... not.

Tapped in fuse 28....

I either get constant power with car off. or if I flip 180 degrees...

I get nothing even with car on.

What kind of peanut butter jelly shit is this.

Oh its an E92 coupe, and my car doesnt even have "homelink"...
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      06-29-2009, 07:03 PM   #394
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Took me a little bit of diagram reading to come up with the problem.

#28 Fuse on my car is "START AND STOP"

Looked into this homelink, it turns out its a picture of a little house with an up arrow...

Well that is Fuse #7 or #63.

I tried #63, that was constant power.

I went for #7... Cha ching!

Works when car is on, but not when car is off.

Sounds legit to me.


Again, this is for a 2009 E92 Coupe 335i, that doesnt have homelink as an option.

Thank you everyone for your previous input... you got me about 95% of the way, it just turns out my car is not like the other BMW's lol.
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      07-01-2009, 06:23 PM   #395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liliej View Post
Slot number 7... perfect. FYI... the homelink is actually mapped to two slots in my 08 model. Number 7 and another number (I think it's 63 or something). Anyway, the other slot did not work properly - the V1 power remained on even when the ignition was turned off. When I tried slot 7, with the fuse tap pointing to the right (as pictured), it worked great.

Awesome thread!
FYI is this hasn't already been posted. The 2009 model is the same. I tried 28, but it always stayed on. Work in my March 2007 car, but not my 09. I tried slot #7 and it works perfectly.

Edit - apparently this was posted right above me.
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      07-01-2009, 06:54 PM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPSlick View Post
Took me a little bit of diagram reading to come up with the problem.

#28 Fuse on my car is "START AND STOP"

Looked into this homelink, it turns out its a picture of a little house with an up arrow...

Well that is Fuse #7 or #63.

I tried #63, that was constant power.

I went for #7... Cha ching!

Works when car is on, but not when car is off.

Sounds legit to me.


Again, this is for a 2009 E92 Coupe 335i, that doesnt have homelink as an option.

Thank you everyone for your previous input... you got me about 95% of the way, it just turns out my car is not like the other BMW's lol.
If you don't have the option its possible that the FRM (or whatever module controls power to it) doesn't power it up like it would in a car with the option. Just play around until you find an ignition switched fuse, shouldn't be too hard.
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