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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > V1 hardwiring through fusebox



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      05-19-2006, 05:20 PM   #23
deez330
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well said bellbarstow

there are defintely many advantages to wiring to the fuse box

a friend of mine had a v1 hardwired in his x5. he started having problems with the cars alarm. when he took it to the dealership and they saw that somebody had messed with the wires to hardwire a v1 they voided his warranty.

also, the electricity when hardwiring to those wires is the unstable, as bill said. my friend fried his v1 concealed display and audio adapter. hardwiring to these wires will likely lead to many blown fuses, and possibly even damage to the device itself.
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      05-22-2006, 01:27 PM   #24
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I ordered my V1 this morning. Should be getting it this week sometime. I like the fuse box installation better than the sunroof installation. I don't like cutting into wires. My question with the fuse box installation is if the fuse slot we are tapping into has a 5 amp fuse, wouldn't adding the V1 with another fuse cause a problem with the circuit?
I don't like messing with electricity. Just want to make sure.
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      05-22-2006, 01:36 PM   #25
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The fuse tap adds an extra fuse to the existing slot...so you use the existing 5 amp fuse and add a 1 or 3 amp fuse. I think the limit for the fuse tap is like 10 amps.
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      05-22-2006, 02:58 PM   #26
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gdnyc - javajaws has this mostly correct - the fuse tap allows you to add a device Up to 10 amps + the value of the original fuse. The original circuit had a 5 amp fuse - that is the fuse would blow if the device drawing current through it exceeded 5 amps. But the fuse holder that you are putting the tap into is a direct power draw from the electrical supply - if you put a 20 amp fuse into the slot, the slot would supply up to 20 amps and then the fuse would blow if the draw exceeded that. By using a 5 for the original Homelink/PDC circuit and a 1 or a 3 for the V1, the total current draw through the tap is only a maximum of 8 amps. The circuit is more than capable of that. The original circuit is still directly in line to the power source, think of the new circuit as being added along side of the original circuit, as if a new slot were installed into the fuse block.
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      05-23-2006, 06:11 PM   #27
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Got my V1 today. I definitely can't stand the cord dangling down the middle of the windshield. I went to autozone and got the mini tap. I will be hardwiring it this week soemtime. Thanks for the info on the install
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      05-27-2006, 03:40 PM   #28
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im thinking of wiring my gps up too

which slots can i use besides the PDC/Homelink one?

can any slot in that section be used as long as i stay under 10 amps?

thanks all

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      07-15-2006, 01:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javajaws
apparently autozone
I got mine at PepBoys.
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      07-15-2006, 01:36 PM   #30
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I just got done with hardwiring the V1 by fusetap. I got the fusetap (mini) at Autozone for about 7 dollars.

As for the installation, it is very simple until you get to the ground wire hookup. I had to drill a hole through that metal thing shown in the previous post, but it was very hard to reach that area with my electric drill. The first hole I made was a little to big, so I had to drill a second hole. Also, the V1 ground connector is made of very soft metal and it gets bent out of shape very easily.

Anway, once everything is hooked up, it is very clean and is completely reversible. Good luck people!!!
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      07-23-2006, 01:25 PM   #31
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Do it the fuse box way...the light panel method is a real hassle and can be finicky - mine mysteriously stopped working yesterday. (The V1 works - I checked with the cigarette lighter adapter - so it must be a wiring connection problem.) That 10mm hex bolt is a real pain to work with, and the light panel is still annoying to pop out. It was working happily since I wrote up that DIY in February, but I wonder if yesterday's 115F heat caused something to go wrong.

Update: Opened it up - didn't seem as hard to pop it open this time. Everything was clean and in place (10mm ground hex not disturbed in any way and no smoke or mysterious meltdowns, which is what I was dreading), but it seems that the spliced wire is finicky and needs to be tugged/tucked in the right spot or the power is not 100% guaranteed to go to the V1. I shuffled it around for a couple of minutes until the V1 came back on and closed it up. I suppose if I used some electrical tape to keep things more secure it would be less likely to shift, but I don't want to do any permanent sticky stuff (I never glued down the adhesive velcro patch that comes with the V1 hardwire kit). I still think you're better off with the fuse box way...
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      07-23-2006, 03:41 PM   #32
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Glad to see people are still using this thread. As an update for myself, since originally writing this post, I have bought the Valentine 1, hardwired it in the same manner as the Passport 8500 x50, and sold the Passport to a co-worker. For a few I was driving around with both on the windshield (one hardwired, one using cigarette lighter) to determine which one I was keeping.

Happy Hardwiring,
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      07-23-2006, 09:37 PM   #33
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I hardwired my RX65 yesterday, took 10min if that running it and connecting it to a mini fuse splitter from autozone. Very clean install, and as far as a ground, the screw from the picture was perfect, it came out easily, fit the eyelet on my wire and went back in now problem no rattling. I think I took more time reading this post than actually installing it, thanks for the insights it made it a breeze!

I snapped a couple pictures with my Q real quick:
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      07-23-2006, 09:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfbmw
Do it the fuse box way...the light panel method is a real hassle and can be finicky - mine mysteriously stopped working yesterday. (The V1 works - I checked with the cigarette lighter adapter - so it must be a wiring connection problem.) That 10mm hex bolt is a real pain to work with, and the light panel is still annoying to pop out. It was working happily since I wrote up that DIY in February, but I wonder if yesterday's 115F heat caused something to go wrong.

Update: Opened it up - didn't seem as hard to pop it open this time. Everything was clean and in place (10mm ground hex not disturbed in any way and no smoke or mysterious meltdowns, which is what I was dreading), but it seems that the spliced wire is finicky and needs to be tugged/tucked in the right spot or the power is not 100% guaranteed to go to the V1. I shuffled it around for a couple of minutes until the V1 came back on and closed it up. I suppose if I used some electrical tape to keep things more secure it would be less likely to shift, but I don't want to do any permanent sticky stuff (I never glued down the adhesive velcro patch that comes with the V1 hardwire kit). I still think you're better off with the fuse box way...
i think i will be going this route as well...the splice works about 95% of the time, i think wiring it to the fuse box is a better solution
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      07-25-2006, 09:28 PM   #35
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thanks a lot for posting the diy and those with inputs... will try to install it when i get the time. It will solve my problems with a dangling cord which gets kind of annoying.

Admin should post this thread in the diy section.
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      10-21-2006, 02:56 PM   #36
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couple of questions


1) do the temperature changes mess with the suction cups?

2) do you worry about the sun during the summer perhaps heating the v1 up and messing with the on board processor

3) doesnt this tempt a thief to break in?
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      10-21-2006, 07:39 PM   #37
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1) The suction cups wear out over time, but so be it.
2) Using it for years, and the heat from the summer is not an issue.
3) Well yea, but what are you going to do, not have a radar detector?
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      10-23-2006, 12:04 PM   #38
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Can someone tell me which is the homelink fuse? Is it the fuse #28 (that has a p and a home?)

Thanks!
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      10-23-2006, 12:23 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbkim
Can someone tell me which is the homelink fuse? Is it the fuse #28 (that has a p and a home?)

Thanks!
It is the one with a house with an arrow in it, and a cone looking object with sound waves bouncing off of it..
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      10-23-2006, 02:40 PM   #40
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Just hardwired my V1 this weekend and for the most part it went great. Had to go buy the right size torx bit for one. The other part that had me a bit confused was figuring out how to get the wire from the door jam into the glove box area. Finally found that the opening was farther back on the right side so I had to snake the wire a bit to get the plug into the glove box. Then, the rest of the wire pulled forward so there was only a small amount that had to run outside the glovebox. The rest of the install went great.
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      10-23-2006, 08:22 PM   #41
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Just installed V1 -Glove Box Method

This was very easy Install to the Fuse Box ! When I first got the 330XI I tried to install to the headlinner - but could not get the cover off. This method was clean, used the torx screw for the ground wire and fuse number 28 slot Homelink on the fuse box.
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      12-15-2006, 06:46 PM   #42
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Anyone with the beltronics smartplug wire??

Connecting directly into the fuse box seems a much better idea. I have the beltronics rx55 and was wondering if anyone had used the smartplug hardwire kit? How can i run the wire so that i have easy access to the mute button on the module? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated?
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      12-17-2006, 06:34 PM   #43
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Awesome instructions! Made my day much easier.
The add a fuse thing is sweet. I like how I didn't have to cut or splice any wires.
Thanks for the write up.
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      12-17-2006, 07:28 PM   #44
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Yeah that part makes life sooo much easier.. Congrats...
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