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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Wastegate Ticking Resolved Without Getting 29.2! Works With 29.2 As Well!



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      09-24-2013, 09:10 AM   #287
TheRuss
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Hi folks, I have a rattle only on warm starts. Would doing this likely fix that rattle? I don't hear it any other time, and only if I have the window down or door open when I start the car warm.
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      09-24-2013, 09:28 AM   #288
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It is normal sometines little rattling at starting... Depending the car...not science exactly!
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      09-24-2013, 10:44 AM   #289
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But will tightening the rod sort it? Or should I just leave it?
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      09-24-2013, 12:14 PM   #290
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But will tightening the rod sort it? Or should I just leave it?
Its best to check with a mityvac and adjust if needed. But you can do small adjustments to see if it helps.
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      09-28-2013, 04:34 AM   #291
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Could someone who has succesfully done this count the number of threads that can be seen from axel? Would be nice to know a ballpark estimate which is a "right" place to adjust it...
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      10-09-2013, 01:08 PM   #292
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Just to make sure I am turning in the correct direction, while standing over the passenger fender, you want to get the wrench under the rod and turn clockwise (towards the driver side of the vehicle?) You should be able to get a half turn at a time.
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      10-09-2013, 01:23 PM   #293
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Nevermind. Just read JPSimon's description.
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      03-08-2014, 03:35 PM   #294
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What's the max turns people have been doing. I'm at around 2 turns and it sounds the same with the same boost.
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      03-08-2014, 08:55 PM   #295
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Has anyone done this from under the car? If so, is it any easier? I have not been able to get ample enough room to reach the rod let alone turn it.
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      04-08-2014, 02:37 PM   #296
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up up I'm also interested.
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      04-28-2014, 11:59 AM   #297
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Has anyone done this from under the car? If so, is it any easier? I have not been able to get ample enough room to reach the rod let alone turn it.
I did this at the weekend, as I have a right hand drive car its near impossible to get to from above due to the steering column, so had to access from below.

You can access the rod from below and you don't even need to remove the protection under the engine to get to it as there is a small hole you can get your hand through as well as an even smaller gap through to the wheel arch.

It is however very fiddly though, maybe as the car is RHD I didnt have the space to use a spanner on the 10mm bolt, so I had to use a 10mm Crowsfoot socket on an extension, once loose I spun by hand. To turn the rod I used a 4mm spanner that I bent in half to fit round the gaps.
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      04-28-2014, 01:48 PM   #298
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My car had a loud and nasty rattle everytime under deacceleration, and this fixed the problem with two full rotations. Wish i did this sooner. The difference is like night and day. Thanks again mr. 5!
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      04-28-2014, 02:12 PM   #299
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hello guys,
sorry for the thread jack but this is for those that has this issue but have not adjusted their rods.

So when i first bought my car used 3 years ago until now it has always had the wastegate rattle. i thought it was normal or it's a sign of the wastegate dying from all the posts. well i decided to change out my vacuum lines to the wastegate for the hell of it they looked a little worn. To my amazement my rattle issue was resolved. I then i began to think about the issue.. now i'm not sure if the wastegate is closed or open at no vacuum but it does it makes sense.. if you have a slow leak the wastegate would not close properly because it could not build enough vacuum and it will begin to rattle. By adjusting the rod, you're compensating for the lack of vacuum but as time goes by the leak worsens and you would run into the same issue again. again you would adjust.. until you're maxed out.

now for those that had already adjusted their rods I really don't know what would happen if you change the lines, if that really was your issue because your wastegate is way out of spec now. But for those that has not, i would follow these instructions and change the vacuum lines first to see if this resolves your issue.

at the very worst, you waste a little time and 5-10 dollars for the hoses. overtime these lines goes bad because one side sits on the oil filter housing and the other side gets the heat from the turbo so you would eventually have to change them anyways. you could use rubber hoses but i replaced mine with silicone hoses. they have better thermal durability.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894084
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546560

Last edited by Nguyenhu0106; 04-28-2014 at 02:39 PM.
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      04-28-2014, 02:29 PM   #300
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Originally Posted by Addicted2Boost View Post
My car had a loud and nasty rattle everytime under deacceleration, and this fixed the problem with two full rotations. Wish i did this sooner. The difference is like night and day. Thanks again mr. 5!
I have the same issue, esp during decel. What tools did you use? Which way to turn the 10mm nut and the rod? Thank you.
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      04-28-2014, 03:07 PM   #301
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I have the same issue, esp during decel. What tools did you use? Which way to turn the 10mm nut and the rod? Thank you.
standing the the front facing the rear of the car, i loosened the 10mm nut by turning it counterclockwise. and i adjusted the rod by spinning it clockwise away from the block with a 4mm craftsman mini wrench i got at sears. hope that helps.
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      05-01-2014, 08:14 AM   #302
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So, let me make it clear, turn rod away from the engine, and also turn the nut away from engine, right?
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      05-01-2014, 11:22 AM   #303
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So, let me make it clear, turn rod away from the engine, and also turn the nut away from engine, right?
have you tried changing your vacuum lines yet?
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      05-01-2014, 03:57 PM   #304
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have you tried changing your vacuum lines yet?
I will soon. Haven't got those lines yet.
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      05-01-2014, 04:05 PM   #305
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i tried like 3 full turns until i could not turn it anymore but there was no difference made in the rattle
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      05-01-2014, 04:07 PM   #306
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The damn 10mm nut is stuck on mine. Thank you rust.
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      05-11-2014, 08:26 PM   #307
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I just did this today. Worked great with about 1.5 turns. Getting the right wrenches is important. I made a 4mm wrench being a machinist and used a 3/8" wrench instead of 10mm and it fit way better. But I dropped a wrench and it sits on the skid plate now. I could not get both hands down there at the same time. Had to prop the 4mm against something to crack the 3/8. Kinda a pita in my opinion but not having that hideous sound is great. Thanks a million op.
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      05-12-2014, 07:06 PM   #308
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29.2 sux...i really notice the low end power loss coming out of the turns
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