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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Why is an oil cooler important and why upgrade to a larger oil cooler?
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| 12-04-2008, 11:09 PM | #1 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
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Why is an oil cooler important and why upgrade to a larger oil cooler?
Why is an oil cooler important
This question has been the most emailed/private message question I receive so I decided to answer that question with this post. The n54 has two primary cooling systems. The first is the engine’s radiator coolant system which cools the top of the engine. I will go into that in more detail when we release our twin core radiator system. The rest of the engine’s internal components are cooled by engine oil, these internal components include pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, bearings, camshaft, lifters, and those tiny turbos. Engine oils job is not only to cool these components but also to lubricate and cleanse them. In order for engine oil to perform well it has to be kept within a certain operating range. BMW has installed a thermostat to monitor and regulate the oil temps. When the engine oil is below the optimal range the thermostat stays closed allowing the engine to warm up the engine oil quickly. On the alternative side if the engine oil becomes too hot, the thermostat opens a valve to allow engine oil into the cars oil cooler (if you have one) The oil cooler then cools down the oil and is then recirculated back into the motor. Why upgrade to a larger oil cooler? At stock power levels the n54’s ability to keep its oil temperatures in check are marginal. Even in cool weather and some “spirited driving,” it isn’t difficult to get the oil temps to go well above 250 degrees Fahrenheit. If you Google, the words “n54 and Limp mode.” The number one reason for the n54 to go into limp mode is oil coolers inability to keep the oil temps within optimal range (fuel pump issues seem to be closing the gap!). A larger oil cooler will help you enjoy your car without the fear of oil temp induced limp mode. Your engine will also perform better and last longer and so will those cute little turbos. Here is a great bit of news, we have reduced the price to only $695 for the holidays! Last edited by Vince@ V K Motorwerks; 12-05-2008 at 11:34 AM. |
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| 12-05-2008, 06:26 AM | #2 | |
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Bodhisattva
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Quote:
Which is ok most of the time since 90% of the utilization of the car is on the highway, where I just stretch my legs every now and then and that's it. What I think (let's say I almost "know") is that if I take my 335i to the track in a not even hot summer temperature, it would just take a very few laps to get the oil temperature to a point where the car gives you a "stop", gets into an inducted limp, and puts me out of the track until it cools down. Which is ok, since this is done to avoid damages to the N54. My question is this: can an oil cooler, the largest possible, be fitted into a 335i E92 which doesn't have one? Thanks
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![]() Salut, Gilles! 335I E92 6AT - V3.2 - GRUPPE M - FMI - RR DOWNPIPES - AE EXHAUST HFC |
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| 12-05-2008, 07:18 AM | #4 |
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Major General
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would be nice to see a compairason of oil temps with and without the upgrade of the oil cooler. For spirited driving in the sommer i have seen highest 120 Celsius which should be around 240/250 . (i have the OEM oil cooler)
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07 335i AT - TD St.2 Turbos - COBB (Custom Cobb mapping by http://www.protuningfreaks.com/) - JB4G5 ISO - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - E85 Walbro - Injen Intake - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - AR DPs - midpipes 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - Level 10 AT upgrade - Alpina AT Flash
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| 12-05-2008, 07:29 AM | #5 |
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Bodhisattva
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Last summer, with air temperature of 33 Celsius (in Italy) the average oil temperature was 120 Celsius just cruising, if pushing they climbed up to 130/132 easily before I lift my right foot. I have no oil cooler, with such temperature I can't even think to take it to the track, and it's not "so much better" if I take it to the track with 23 Celsius instead of 33, I bet my lunch it would only take few additional laps to go into an oil temperature limp no matter what
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![]() Salut, Gilles! 335I E92 6AT - V3.2 - GRUPPE M - FMI - RR DOWNPIPES - AE EXHAUST HFC |
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| 12-05-2008, 08:38 AM | #6 | |
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Lieutenant Colonel
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Quote:
-Vince |
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| 12-05-2008, 08:41 AM | #7 | |
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Major General
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07 335i AT - TD St.2 Turbos - COBB (Custom Cobb mapping by http://www.protuningfreaks.com/) - JB4G5 ISO - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - E85 Walbro - Injen Intake - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - AR DPs - midpipes 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - Level 10 AT upgrade - Alpina AT Flash
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| 12-05-2008, 09:00 AM | #8 | ||
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Lieutenant Colonel
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() However if you purchased the VK OC or know someone who did and is interested in doing a video shoot, please send me a PM. |
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| 12-05-2008, 09:42 AM | #9 | |
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Colonel
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Sitting in traffic, my oil temp hits 250. Without airflow, I don't thing it matters how big your oil cooler or even intercooler is. It's obvious that BMW did not design these cars for sustained track use. But I don't track my car, so this is just commentary for daily driving circumstances. I would be curious to know what oil temp normally aspirated cars experience in comparison. Cooler is probably always better, unless there is an optimal temperature built in by design. |
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| 12-05-2008, 10:05 AM | #10 | |
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Lieutenant Colonel
![]() Drives: 01 Black 911 Turbo, 09 X5 Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
Turbo cars generally run hotter then N/A cars by design since the exhaust gases are recirculated and also the oil is not just heated up by the engine but by the turbos as well. As for the optimal temperature range BMW leaves quite a bit open. From our research the thermostat seems to be partially open at 210 and is fully open by 230. However, once open the factory failsafe doesn’t kick in until slightly above 300f. Most people will not use their cars for track use. However, they are not keeping this car stock either. They are modifying it to be a better performance car. Therefore, its just a important to maintain the car like a performance car with more frequent oil changes, spark plug replacements, tires replacement...and have supplement mods such as better sway bars, lsd, brakes, oil cooler, IC,... for the car and their own safety. One more thing to remember its well documented that even a stock car equipped with a OEM OC it is possible to over hear the oil. BMW only warranties these cars for 50k miles, after that, any mechanical failure is your problem. |
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| 12-05-2008, 10:40 AM | #13 |
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Lieutenant
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For those of us that have the extra factory oil cooler in there, how bad is the DIY for the 'smaller kit' ?? I had heard it was a pain, but maybe those people were referring to the full one ?
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| 12-05-2008, 10:47 AM | #14 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
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For the upgrade kit it can be done as a DIY, however, you need the right tools and have to know what your doing. Definitely not for a beginner. A regular shop should have no issue putting it on within a few hours.
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| 12-05-2008, 11:15 AM | #16 |
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Lieutenant
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Looks nice. I'm saving up for my cp-e exhaust, but after that I'll be getting an oil cooler upgrade.
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2008 Montego Blue E90 ll Custom K&N Dual Cone Intake ll Aluminum OEM Pedals ll 25% Tint ll M3 Spoiler
To Do (Cosmetic): Black Line lights, Lux 4.0 Angel Eyes, 19" CSL HyperBlack To Do (Performance): Exhaust (still undecided which brand), SSTT, FMIC (unsure what type) |
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| 12-05-2008, 11:38 AM | #17 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
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The full kit requires you to remove your intake manifold, you have gaskets there that have to then be replaced (included in the kit) The oil filter housing has to be changed, the new thermostat has to be added to the new oil filter housing which has to be sealed properly, a new oil cooler braket has to be installed as well. I hope you understand why im saying its not a DIY. Just pay a professional to do the job and be done with it. I really dont see how BMW would have an issue with an oil cooler since all its doing is helping keep the engine oil cool (a very good thing!) and its still controlled by their thermostat (another good thing!)
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| 12-05-2008, 12:02 PM | #18 | |
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Private First Class
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Thanks, Nate
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JPSIMON's personal mechanic
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| 12-05-2008, 12:33 PM | #19 | |
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Lieutenant Colonel
![]() Drives: 01 Black 911 Turbo, 09 X5 Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
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| 12-05-2008, 01:00 PM | #20 |
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Samtaro!
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I have a complaint with Vince @ VKMotorwerks!
![]() I ran on the track back in September at the Auto Club Speedway (formerly California Speedway) with the stock oil cooler. I had the JB3 tune set to low-boost mode. It was easy to get the car to overheat and go into limp mode if I drove aggressively. The oil temp gauge hit 290+. Because of this experience, I bought and installed the VK Motorwerks Oil Cooler in October. In November I ran with Speedventures.com, again at the Auto Club Speedway. Oil temperatures never climbed above 265 in JB3 low-boost mode, even with aggressive driving. So I set the JB3 to high-boost mode. I saw the temps hit about 275 at times, but I never went into limp mode. So rather than worrying about the engine overheating, I have a different worry now... brakes! Since the engine lets me drive aggressively without the engine overheating, I'm starting to cook my brakes! I blame Vince @ VKMotorwerks for my new problem! ![]()
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| 12-05-2008, 01:04 PM | #21 | |
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Lieutenant Colonel
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| 12-05-2008, 01:07 PM | #22 |
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Captain
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I tracked my car in November. It was in the 70's during the day and I have a Dinan Oil Cooler. It worked fine actually. I never got above 253 or so.
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335i coupe Montego Blue Dinan stage 3 tune, Advan RS wheels 350whp/365wtq
1994 Brooklands Green Acura NSX Comptech Supercharged 390whp/300wtq |
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