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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > BMW Coding > Power Supply Options..



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      03-18-2017, 06:21 AM   #1
K22Honda
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Power Supply Options..

So let me give a lil backround. I got my first e90 NOT RUNNING with a scratch or two, I have every intention of building the N52. Yes I know there is a N54 and N55 but I really like the N52's layout and wanted to get my hands on one to tinker with. Ive built LOTS of cars and bikes over the years.. I own too many still. I live in Los Angeles though and 3 of my favorite cars are Honda's. Ones a teg but its all the same. I can't take them ANYWHERE, not and leave them if I want to see them ever again. :/ So they sit and are for play this BMW I have as a daily now. When I picked it up it he said it might not start and it fired right up. sounded perfect, I could hear compression no missing and it had even been sitting a month. I paid 3k for it and towed it home. I then grabbed a k - D can cable and flashed everything all at once.. most of it failed, lol BUT the car started.. Learned it was the steering lock that I had now working with the locks rather than the key.. Didnt wanna ever think of it again so I ordered one of those emulators and ripped the column out and manually set the steering lock to unlock after I unplugged it and installed the emulator.

So now, my car runs.. but NOTHING works but the tach, gas windows and seat heaters. no radio, no navi, heater and ac work great but it ONLY says 25 degrees and EVERYTHING blinks SOS and airbag stuff all that jazz.. I dun real fuckin good...

I now have an Icom NEXT setup I got for 300 off ebay came with a HDD.. I installed that and got it hooked up via MOST_async234 or something like that.

Then I loaded INSTA/P and started session and all was going well but it said low voltage.. so it aborted..

Will this work to hook up as a bench charger? (Tekpower Tp30swi 30 Amp Dc 13.8v Switching Power Supply With Noise)

Google that.. Should I go for MORE amps? or could I do with less? Will this murder my battery? should I not go "pow wow" while it flashes? Any advice is much appreciated. Anything else I should know?
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      03-18-2017, 06:25 AM   #2
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The car I'm dealing with..

Everyone loves a pic or two..
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      03-18-2017, 06:00 PM   #3
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50 amps

50 amp stable power supply is needed to safely complete a whole car.. Many have done 1 by 1 method with all kinds of random chargers and power supplies with success but for the whole car you need a stable 50+ amp power supply.. BMW asks for a 4/20/70 amp switchable power supply.. I'm assuming they need to be able to switch to a lower amp to not MURDER the battery. They cost only about 60 bucks more than what I posted.. Just ordered mine..

Next thread will be a step by step of how to recover modules from incomplete flashes, Including how to get them in the proper state before programing.. I figured it all out I just didn't wanna fire the gun till I verified a couple things first.. I'm still very curious to know if a 30-4 amp switchable 13.8 volt power supply would do a good job.. If it was a larger price variant I would have got both and tested them under load and returned 1 respectively. They sell the 30 amp power supply units at FRY's electronics I may one day just have to for the sake of knowing if there is a difference or if BMW had "X" PS unit and just said well we used that one, so we approve that one. Seen it done many times in all forms of manufacturing. Why fix what isnt broken when you have deadlines to meet. I have a lifetime so maybe one day..

Now we know if you didn't already.. I kept using wrong search terms once I typed in "PS unit BMW coding" it all came up. o.0 I was typing in charger.. :/ sometimes that is all it takes to find what you need..
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      03-18-2017, 06:46 PM   #4
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Schumacher INC-700a is good. 70a

Also CTEK and Ring both make very good 50a chargers with a built in battery support mode. Excellent value.
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      03-20-2017, 03:33 AM   #5
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You had to say it.. -_-

I was thinking about the Schumacher INC-700a for almost 2 days, and then bought a cheaper one. Saw your reply (your damn name is sensible ffs) and I ordered the Schumacher from Amazon with express 1 day shipping. Was under 500.

Seriously I know myself too well. I'm gonna mess with this stuff over and over again. Might as well get the correct tool for the job.. Thanks for pushing me in the right direction, I'm sure I won't be upset when everything works perfectly. :P
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      03-23-2017, 05:24 PM   #6
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Tested it..

So I recived the Schumacher 700a yesterday and I got the Chinese thing I bought today.. I had to be quick to return the Chinese one.. (Schumacher is MADE IN CHINA also but it has a name at least lol)

I quickly threw each on on my car and turned on all the lights and stuff I could, I then used a 12 volt spot light to draw 15 amps consistent from the battery to get it to discharge QUICK.. I used the no name first and it took so long to register the voltage drop that the car went UNDER 12 volts while being charged before kicking up to the 50a setting.. Then it got REALLY hot and shut it's self off due to heat protection circuit switch. Did that within 3 mins of switching to 50amps. LOL!

The Schumacher was up next to defend it's title.. Already having been low I let it charge on auto for 20 mins.. Before fully charged.. I started the drain again.. Without a sound the Schumacher KICKED UP and started pulling down real juice, 70a and 13.8v stable. So thought, lets break it if I can, hell its new and I could return it. Put another spotlight on the circuit 30amps being drawn JUST from the lights and car has EVERYTHING on.. AC FANS and EVERYTHING.. Still charged and held volts steady.. after awhile it turned on internal fans to cool it's slef but never got more than warm to the touch..

Schumacher was able to charge the car AND hold an extra load of 30amps like it was nothing.. No failure under loaded conditions and for long flashes I see why they say this is the tool to use.. You're money will not be wasted, you get EXACTLY what you pay for in some cases, and this is one of them..
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