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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Wire Harness connector to Crankshaft Position Sensor broke :(



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      02-22-2015, 09:59 PM   #1
desolatax
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Wire Harness connector to Crankshaft Position Sensor broke :(

I recently replaced a dead DISA valve, valve cover gasket, and had it all together and running fine for the last week. Just today an engine code popped up, P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction.
Upon further inspection, I found that the cable connected to the sensor had snapped off. It doesn't look like I could solder or reconnect the two parts back on to the connector.

Here's a picture of the connector I'm talking about. Does anyone know if it's possible to purchase just the connector anywhere without buying a whole engine harness?

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      02-22-2015, 10:30 PM   #2
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Take a look here if you have a chance.
http://www.te.com/en/industries/auto...y-chassis.html


Or check out molex connectors.
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      02-22-2015, 10:49 PM   #3
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Your sensor for your car doesn't look like the one on here at all. Check out the photos that someone submitted. Are you sure it's the CPS connector? Can you provide the damaged portion that fell off?


http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm
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      02-22-2015, 11:21 PM   #4
desolatax
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Damaged portion that fell off is down on the plastic underbody panels when I took the cable out.
I just took a closer look at the cable and found that you can take off the connector. The numbers on the side that is broke is 7 507 525 .9 and 872-405B. Looks like this poster had a similar cable to mine except his says A on the side instead of B like mine and the rubber ring is green on mine. The part numbers on the connector are the same as the part numbers for the disa valve connectors except the disa valve towards the outside has 872-405A.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=47

Here's a pic with the connector removed of the damaged cable.

They popped out of the connector before I could write down the order of the colors, but it looked like it was orange on the left, black/blue middle, and yellow on the right with the latch bump on top from the back of the connector going in.

Last edited by desolatax; 02-22-2015 at 11:35 PM.
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      02-23-2015, 07:09 PM   #5
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Aha! Found the parts on RealOEM, available at the dealer.

For future reference if anyone else breaks their wiring harness connectors,
Socket housing, blue 1x 12527507526 $2.53
Sealing grommet 0.5-0.75MM˛ 1x 61138366245 $0.17
Terminal socket MCON 1.2 0,5-0,75 MM˛/AG 3x 12527545852 $0.50

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...32&hg=11&fg=10

Connections looked like orange on the left, black/blue middle, and yellow on the right with the latch bump on top from the back of the connector going in.

Does anyone know where I could find the wiring diagram for this? BMW Dealer was no help, parts counter guy was completely useless and arrogant. I'm looking for pics on the net and not seeing much
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      02-24-2015, 11:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desolatax View Post
Aha! Found the parts on RealOEM, available at the dealer.

For future reference if anyone else breaks their wiring harness connectors,
Socket housing, blue 1x 12527507526 $2.53
Sealing grommet 0.5-0.75MM˛ 1x 61138366245 $0.17
Terminal socket MCON 1.2 0,5-0,75 MM˛/AG 3x 12527545852 $0.50

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...32&hg=11&fg=10

Connections looked like orange on the left, black/blue middle, and yellow on the right with the latch bump on top from the back of the connector going in.

Does anyone know where I could find the wiring diagram for this? BMW Dealer was no help, parts counter guy was completely useless and arrogant. I'm looking for pics on the net and not seeing much
I am in the exact same position. I broke mine yesterday and now am stranded. Good news for you, I took pictures of my broken cable. I even have it memorized... lol

I have a 325i, I assume for your car would be the same. I'm going to post a picture in a few to confirm.

Last edited by xxxjecxxx; 02-24-2015 at 11:47 AM.
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      02-24-2015, 11:34 AM   #7
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The tab that locks is facing up.

Yellow, Black, Orange
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      02-24-2015, 01:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxjecxxx View Post


The tab that locks is facing up.

Yellow, Black, Orange
Thanks a bunch! I'm just waiting for the parts to come in to the stealership and hoping I can get my car on the road soon.
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      09-14-2015, 02:45 PM   #9
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where you able to fix this? I managed to get the part #'s in real oem.
But dunno how i will fit them now....
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      11-06-2015, 01:08 AM   #10
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i have the same problem,, but my connector isnt totally broken but it still could be the source of the crankshaft position sensor code. im thinking of ordering the parts listed above and getting a new sensor as well to see if that fixes my problems. this gives me a headache :/... first my 2001 e46 330ci coupe and now my e90 2006 330i (n52). the same sensor too lol
i found all the parts at http://www.pelicanparts.com/


free image uploading
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      06-08-2016, 01:55 AM   #11
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Had to revive this old thread as I am in the same boat. I ordered the parts today and should be pickiny them up in the morning. Im just wondering on how to attach the terminals to the connecter. I believe one end locks in but the other side do i solder it to the wire or crimp it, is there a special tool. If anyone has experience with these connectors do let me know, currently my connector looks exactly as OP's broken in half. Thanks guys
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      06-08-2016, 05:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killerace View Post
Had to revive this old thread as I am in the same boat. I ordered the parts today and should be pickiny them up in the morning. Im just wondering on how to attach the terminals to the connecter. I believe one end locks in but the other side do i solder it to the wire or crimp it, is there a special tool. If anyone has experience with these connectors do let me know, currently my connector looks exactly as OP's broken in half. Thanks guys
If your terminal pins are damaged & need replaced like his:
  • Remove (3) terminal pins/wires from old Connector Housing (pay attention to which color goes where). If they are still locked in to the plastic housing you will need a tiny screwdriver to push in on the lock tab of the Terminal Pin showing thru a little window in the housing while pulling out wire at same time
  • Cut off old broken Terminal Pins as close as possible so as to not shorten the wires any more than you have to
  • Remove old Grommets from each wire
  • Slide new Grommets on to each wire paying attention to the orientation - ribbed end of Grommet should be away from end of wire, shank of Grommet to end of wire
  • Push Grommets back up each wire to allow room to strip each wire 3/16"
  • Twist stranded ends of stripped wires tightly
  • Insert stripped end of wire into new Terminal Pin crimp end till it reaches the barrel
  • Slide Grommet down wire toward stripped end so that shank of Grommet fits into outer crimp tabs of Terminal Pin & gently squeeze those (2) tabs around the shank of the Grommet to hold everything together whilst you crimp
  • Crimp terminals onto each wire (no soldering needed). There are specific Crimp Tools used for these type of terminals - I have the ratcheting style that has multiple sizes available
  • After crimp both the wire & the Grommet should be secured to the terminal
  • Slide Terminal pins into new Socket Housing paying attention to what color wire goes where till they can go no further & you here a tiny 'click' noise telling you the Terminal Pin lock tab is engaged (Terminal pin should be all way to end of Socket Housing & Grommet should be entirely inserted into bore of Housing so it is flush

And you are done

Sounds more complicated than it is - I've done these style connectors so many times it only takes seconds.

If you have never done them before I would suggest buying extra (more than you need) Terminal Pins as you may *uck up some as you learn
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      06-08-2016, 10:02 AM   #13
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Wow thanks for the detailed writeup i truly appreciate it. Is it okay to use the old grommets and can you provide a link to the tool. Is on like this going to work

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.terminal-kit-wcrimp-tool-case-terminals.1000818680.html
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      06-08-2016, 11:51 AM   #14
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if you could get the old grommets off without damaging, sure you could reuse them - but that is probably going to be a pain in the ass. Considering you'll only save a couple bucks, it's probably worth just getting new ones and saving yourself the headache.
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      06-08-2016, 12:17 PM   #15
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Its not even about the money, I rodered that parts yesterday and will be picking them up today but since they are special order I would have to wait till tomorrow for the grommets. I ordered the parts that OP has listed one of each and 3 of the terminal not sure if OP had 3 new grommets or not.
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      06-08-2016, 04:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killerace View Post
Wow thanks for the detailed writeup i truly appreciate it. Is it okay to use the old grommets and can you provide a link to the tool. Is on like this going to work

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.t...000818680.html
No, unfortunately that crimper will not work - you need a Crimp Tool that makes 'F ' Crimps

Such as this one:

http://www.repairconnector.com/24to-...crimping-tool/



Or this one:

http://www.repairconnector.com/heavy...nd-connectors/





And those are the cheaper versions that will at least get the job done, the Crimp tools I have (Molex & AMP) are both ratcheting & way more $$

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/...ION_TOOLIN.xml



http://store.crimptools.com/amp-tyco...imp-snap-.html


As far as needing new Grommets is concerned - the old Grommets will have been crimped already as there is a 2nd set of prongs on the Terminal Pins that crimps around the barrel of the Grommet as I explained above. You maj be able to get the old Grommets out of the crimp without damaging, or you may not...
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      06-08-2016, 05:11 PM   #17
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yeah you need the right crimper, those links are great suggestions. The cheaper ones will work if you're only going to use it a few times - the ratcheting ones are nicer if you're using it a lot. I crimped so many Amp connectors with my ratcheting tool I started to get pain in my right hand, lol.
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      06-08-2016, 06:48 PM   #18
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Would this work?
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...ol/A-p8397234e
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      06-08-2016, 08:23 PM   #19
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no - wrong die shape.
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      06-08-2016, 10:55 PM   #20
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Im having trouble trying to find one here in Canada I went to homedepot and no luck there either. Can you help out and check if any on princessauto can be used?
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      06-09-2016, 12:52 AM   #21
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Where in canada are you?
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      06-09-2016, 01:39 AM   #22
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I live in the GTA near mississauga/brampton. My car has been parked for about a week otherwise I wouldve ordered online. What about this one from canadiantire it says "f type" but i dont think it is the right one either lol.

https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products...303&quantity=1

or any of these?



Please view this ad:

Pin Crimping Tool Crimper 2.54mm 3.96mm KF2510 28-18 AWG,
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-hand-tool/mar...awg/1164624049





https://www.lowes.ca/products/view.aspx?family=1812593

Last edited by killerace; 06-09-2016 at 02:16 AM.
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