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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Valve cover gasket leak



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      11-20-2011, 01:37 PM   #89
striderg3
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i think im just gonna pay a mechanic to do this. and change the plugs while hes at at. $300 cost with parts. not bad?
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      11-20-2011, 01:44 PM   #90
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That's a good price.
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      11-22-2011, 09:15 PM   #91
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hose that breaks easily. #3

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      12-06-2011, 11:19 PM   #92
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When should you have this fixed?

I just purchased my first BMW, which is an 06 325i from a import auto dealer who told me the car needed nothing...well come to find out it needs a few things, surprise surprise. I called Motorwerks BMW dealership (where the previous owner, before the import dealer I bought it from had all the maintenance done) they had all the records and were able to supply me with copies.

Back in March they recommended replacing:
Valve cover gasket (leaking oil) - $1,066.80
Oil filter housing O-rings (leaking oil) - 756.60

I have only had the car for about 1k miles and yes the engine does have oil around the valve cover from leakage but I don't have the extra money to drop on this fix. If my oil indicator light is not coming on and there is no noticeable puddling of oil underneath the car in my garage how long can I go without having this fixed? Is there risk of major damage if I just add oil when it runs low? This pricing sounds rediculous compared to some I have seen on this thread...would you recommend a non-import shop to do this work, if they give me a better quote?

A little frustrated that the shop I bought this from didn't tell me of this as they clearly would have known, especially since they bought it from the dealership that gave me all the records. But, you live and you learn i guess...Thanks for any suggestions on how I should proceed.
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      12-07-2011, 12:01 AM   #93
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Is valve cover gasket really leaking or the oil from the housing gasket dripping down to all around the engine, making it look like vcg leak? Are there any broken bolts that you can see? Perhaps clean out the vcg area and housing gasket area with rags and determine which one is really leaking? You should get it changed soon since it is not good if the oil falls on some hoses and belts- that will create more problems down the road. Perhaps call some especialized BMW Indy's in your area- they will be the best if you don't want to DIY.
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      12-08-2011, 12:26 AM   #94
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I have same problem which is 06 330Xi with 52000 mile and dealer asked me $ 985. I decided do it myself I already bought gasket and aliminium bolts from dealership about $100. I ll do this weekend. I ll post my all experience but I m still not sure about torque for bolts. Did anyone decide correct value?

Last edited by Zeky; 12-08-2011 at 12:31 AM.
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      12-08-2011, 12:35 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stbimmerguymn View Post
I just purchased my first BMW, which is an 06 325i from a import auto dealer who told me the car needed nothing...well come to find out it needs a few things, surprise surprise. I called Motorwerks BMW dealership (where the previous owner, before the import dealer I bought it from had all the maintenance done) they had all the records and were able to supply me with copies.

Back in March they recommended replacing:
Valve cover gasket (leaking oil) - $1,066.80
Oil filter housing O-rings (leaking oil) - 756.60

I have only had the car for about 1k miles and yes the engine does have oil around the valve cover from leakage but I don't have the extra money to drop on this fix. If my oil indicator light is not coming on and there is no noticeable puddling of oil underneath the car in my garage how long can I go without having this fixed? Is there risk of major damage if I just add oil when it runs low? This pricing sounds rediculous compared to some I have seen on this thread...would you recommend a non-import shop to do this work, if they give me a better quote?

A little frustrated that the shop I bought this from didn't tell me of this as they clearly would have known, especially since they bought it from the dealership that gave me all the records. But, you live and you learn i guess...Thanks for any suggestions on how I should proceed.

a thousand for replacing valve cover gasket? lol WTF, go ask your local forum and see if any one know a good shop around your area. Dealer always
will be ridiculous.
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      12-08-2011, 04:29 PM   #96
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Please help, does anyone know torque value for cover aliminium bolts?
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      12-13-2011, 04:35 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxjecxxx View Post
I did it myself last year. . No DIY but make sure to get new screws because they can only be used once. Some tips:

Do not use any sealant it's not needed. If your leak is due to broken aluminum screws you can turn them out with the tip of a flat screw driver. Should take about 4 hours. Make sure to do an oil change the next day so if you are leaking oil, you won't leak the new one. Total parts for me was about $150. No special tool required. You will have to remove a hose on the valve cover that you will most likely break and BMW dealership won't have in stock since their techs break it all the time so I suggest you order that and return it if you don't need it. If you do break it, you will need to remove the intake manifold to take off the other end so be careful not to break it. There is absolutely no order to anything i just wrote but i hope it helps. Here are some pics:



broken bolt causing leak






Look directly under the end of the wiper, that's the hose you have to be careful with and will most likely break (it's already broke there). Aslo in that last picture you can see that I pushed the coil wires all the way down to have some working space.

Oh yea. You don't have to remove the injectors but it's a lot easier if you do. Also you will need some swivel because the screws closer to the firewall are a pain to get to. (Only two of them the rest are easy)



Don't be afraid to try it it's a lot easier than it looks and I'm no mechanic. Start Early and don't forget to have the extra hose in case it break. If you run the car without it, oil will fly everywhere. Hope this helps.
I broked same hose, how did you fix it. Can you pls help me?
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      12-22-2011, 10:52 PM   #98
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Broken Hose

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeky View Post
I broked same hose, how did you fix it. Can you pls help me?
I broke the same hose this week too. My local dealership charged about $40 for the hose (I think they gave me the wholesale price). I was actually able to change it without removing the manifold. You'll need to be slightly skinny, flexible and VERY patient to do it that way.

I was able to follow the hose to where it connects behind/under the manifold and remove it. Putting the new hose on took a little work, but once I had a feel for the angle of where it connected, I was able to get it to snap in. I did all of this leaning over from the passenger side.

To plug in the wires, you'll have to move to the driver's side. I used a flat head screw driver to get the old plug out and also to push the new one in.

Although, following the valve cover gasket and spark plug replacement, my car's idle is messed up and I think the gasket around my valvetronic motor is leaking significantly, so, take advice from me at your own risk! And if you need me tomorrow, I'll be taking some parts off of my car trying to fix the new leak
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      12-23-2011, 02:10 AM   #99
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Had my valve cover gasket, variable timing gasket (both leaking) and new spark plugs put in today. $840 for everything.

My car feels much more responsive with the new plugs. If you do the gasket, it's a good idea to do the plugs too.
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      12-23-2011, 08:52 PM   #100
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Any idea on how to remove the breather hose, it has an odd connector? Does it pull straight off?
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      12-24-2011, 09:12 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aschierberg View Post
I broke the same hose this week too. My local dealership charged about $40 for the hose (I think they gave me the wholesale price). I was actually able to change it without removing the manifold. You'll need to be slightly skinny, flexible and VERY patient to do it that way.

I was able to follow the hose to where it connects behind/under the manifold and remove it. Putting the new hose on took a little work, but once I had a feel for the angle of where it connected, I was able to get it to snap in. I did all of this leaning over from the passenger side.

To plug in the wires, you'll have to move to the driver's side. I used a flat head screw driver to get the old plug out and also to push the new one in.

Although, following the valve cover gasket and spark plug replacement, my car's idle is messed up and I think the gasket around my valvetronic motor is leaking significantly, so, take advice from me at your own risk! And if you need me tomorrow, I'll be taking some parts off of my car trying to fix the new leak
I could take hose off but i'm still stock in wires? I tried everthing i wasnt able to plug off old wires. How did you took old wires.
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      01-05-2012, 09:59 AM   #102
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I have not had a chance to search the forums for an answer to my question since I have to pick up my car from the dealership this morning and need a quick answer. Does anyone know if a leaking valve cover gasket could cause the mass air flow sensor to trip therefore causing the service engine light to come on.
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      05-07-2012, 06:23 PM   #103
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thanks. that's very clear

thanks. that's very clear
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxjecxxx View Post
hose that breaks easily. #3

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      05-08-2012, 09:33 PM   #104
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Alum-mag cover on n52 needs 63 inch-lb with an additional 90 degree torque angle (just tighten the bolt to torque spec and then an additional 90 degree turn) and you need new bolts. n52kp and n51 with plastic cover uses 7ft-lbs and no need for new bolts.
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      05-08-2012, 09:37 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by italiano1980 View Post
I have not had a chance to search the forums for an answer to my question since I have to pick up my car from the dealership this morning and need a quick answer. Does anyone know if a leaking valve cover gasket could cause the mass air flow sensor to trip therefore causing the service engine light to come on.
I dont see how that can trigger the mass air flow sensor. But if you need a new one i have one for sale
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      05-15-2012, 04:34 PM   #106
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I also have this problem and have seen smoke numerous times when I come to a stop and get the nasty smell inside my car. I bought the new gaskets $35 and took all the plastic parts off the car to get to the Valve cover. Decided just doing that was a pita and decided not to change the vcg mainly because I can't find a good DIY and don't feel like risking breaking some part on my BMW. So instead I cleaned all the oil off the edges of the valve cover and the oil that was sitting around the spark plugs with Q-tips. Then put the parts back on. Haven't noticed any oil leaking yet and it fixed the oil burning smell. I did have to clean off the header exhaust pipe since some oil had leaked on it causing the smell.

Dealer wants $1k and indy shop wants $700. Gonna keep driving it until it gets worse then probably pay to get it fixed or trade the car in for $15k.
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      05-15-2012, 05:53 PM   #107
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crap.. why couldn't this be easy as tightening one of the the screws!
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      05-15-2012, 06:41 PM   #108
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Quote:
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crap.. why couldn't this be easy as tightening one of the the screws!
I know right? I also have this issue with the bolts but honestly it does not cause any low oil warning light yet. I changed the oil back in December and still in the same high level position. 6 months has gone by and no oil needed as of yet. I know I will have to change since i can see the oil leaking a bit down the engine block. Any suggestions anyone?
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      07-02-2012, 09:55 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
I know right? I also have this issue with the bolts but honestly it does not cause any low oil warning light yet. I changed the oil back in December and still in the same high level position. 6 months has gone by and no oil needed as of yet. I know I will have to change since i can see the oil leaking a bit down the engine block. Any suggestions anyone?
My best guess will be the aluminum bolts are giving away. The gaskets are fine, but some bolts broken and causing insufficient seal pressure to the gasket, thus the leaking oil. To be precise, seeping oil out when you rev it.

I found out mine during diagnostic and have it fixed in an indy shop here in SoCal for 250. But felt like eventually those aluminum bolts will be shaken and break again.
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      07-03-2012, 10:10 AM   #110
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I just went threw this my self. I took my car in 5 times, each time they told me some bs, said it was fixed, week later leaking again!!!! So I decided to do there job for em. Took the cover off, noticed oil half way up the side of the valve cover and no where else....hmmmmmmm..... wiped it off and heyyyy look at that, there was a crack in the cover. Anyways sorry for my rant but im pissed at my dealer.


Hope your car was sorted out properly though!
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