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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > M3 Wishbone links, Tesnion Links, and Strut Brace Installed!



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      03-25-2011, 10:19 AM   #265
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can i fit the wishbones and tension link in front without changing to m3 frontal axel ?
the car is a 320i e90 2006
Yes, you sure can.
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      03-25-2011, 11:44 AM   #266
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Yes, you sure can.
thank you so much for the assist
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      03-28-2011, 03:18 PM   #267
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I finally got through all 13 pages and now have some questions. I'm looking to tighten up the feel of my suspension as a daily driver. I want the car to feel more confident at higher highway speeds (80-85mph), the car feels floaty now. Is the m3 wishbone and tension links my best route or would FSD's or coilovers be a better route?
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      03-28-2011, 05:08 PM   #268
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Originally Posted by Chefcg1 View Post
I finally got through all 13 pages and now have some questions. I'm looking to tighten up the feel of my suspension as a daily driver. I want the car to feel more confident at higher highway speeds (80-85mph), the car feels floaty now. Is the m3 wishbone and tension links my best route or would FSD's or coilovers be a better route?
How many miles are on your car, what kind of tires are you running and what size tires?
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      03-28-2011, 05:29 PM   #269
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sitting at 32k new continental dws 245/35/19 front, 265/30/19 rear
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      03-28-2011, 07:46 PM   #270
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Originally Posted by Chefcg1 View Post
I finally got through all 13 pages and now have some questions. I'm looking to tighten up the feel of my suspension as a daily driver. I want the car to feel more confident at higher highway speeds (80-85mph), the car feels floaty now. Is the m3 wishbone and tension links my best route or would FSD's or coilovers be a better route?
I would do the front M3 parts before the coilovers for highway use. If your OE shocks are warn, then do FSDs. Next would probably be the rear M3 subframe bushings, although it's a decent amount of labor.
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      03-28-2011, 07:47 PM   #271
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Originally Posted by Chefcg1 View Post
sitting at 32k new continental dws 245/35/19 front, 265/30/19 rear
Im running the same tires but stock sizes 225/40/18 in the front and 255/35/18 in the rear and after I had the dealer redue my allignment it is stable at high speeds. When is the last time you had the car aligned and was it done by the dealer or a shop with good equipment? My car handled better with PS-2's but I wouldnt say my car is unstable at high speeds but I havent had my car above 110 with the DSW's on it. I have been up to 145ish with the PS-2's and it was very stable.

I am sure HP Autowerks can help you more with your setup, they are the one's with the most experance using M-3 parts on the E9X I think they were the first shop to do it.
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      03-28-2011, 08:25 PM   #272
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Quote:
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I would do the front M3 parts before the coilovers for highway use. If your OE shocks are warn, then do FSDs. Next would probably be the rear M3 subframe bushings, although it's a decent amount of labor.
That was what I was thinking as well.
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      03-28-2011, 08:30 PM   #273
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Im running the same tires but stock sizes 225/40/18 in the front and 255/35/18 in the rear and after I had the dealer redue my allignment it is stable at high speeds. When is the last time you had the car aligned and was it done by the dealer or a shop with good equipment? My car handled better with PS-2's but I wouldnt say my car is unstable at high speeds but I havent had my car above 110 with the DSW's on it. I have been up to 145ish with the PS-2's and it was very stable.

I am sure HP Autowerks can help you more with your setup, they are the one's with the most experance using M-3 parts on the E9X I think they were the first shop to do it.
To be honest it isn't that the car is unstable it is just that I want it to feel more connected with the road. I have not had the car aligned since i bought it with 9k as CPO. I figured I would do the suspension work and get it aligned at that time. Guess it is time to talk to the guys at HP Autowerks.
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      03-28-2011, 08:35 PM   #274
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+1 on Harold at HP Autowerks. He'll ask you about how you use the car (and how sensitive/demanding you are) to make the right set of recommendations.

I've done almost all the M3 pieces front and back, as well as Koni sport shocks and BMW performance springs. HUGE change in performance. Not cheap.

You've already done the first thing, which is getting rid of the RFTs. Bang for the buck, the M3 front bits might be the next place to go. Try to get the front alignment to 0.9 degree negative camber or more if you can. Consider adding the M3 front sway bar at the same time.

Next I would do the shocks/springs. And then the rear pieces and subframe bushings if you feel you need it.
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      03-28-2011, 08:45 PM   #275
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+1 on Harold at HP Autowerks. He'll ask you about how you use the car (and how sensitive/demanding you are) to make the right set of recommendations.

I've done almost all the M3 pieces front and back, as well as Koni sport shocks and BMW performance springs. HUGE change in performance. Not cheap.

You've already done the first thing, which is getting rid of the RFTs. Bang for the buck, the M3 front bits might be the next place to go. Try to get the front alignment to 0.9 degree negative camber or more if you can. Consider adding the M3 front sway bar at the same time.

Next I would do the shocks/springs. And then the rear pieces and subframe bushings if you feel you need it.
I PM'ed Harold and I'll see what he recommends. Thanks!
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      03-29-2011, 05:22 PM   #276
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So I checked my tires this morning; I just had discount tire put them on last week and my fronts were at 29psi! rears were fine at 36psi. I added air and the car drives much better...go figure. I guess you just can't trust the installers these days.
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      03-29-2011, 09:03 PM   #277
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Originally Posted by Chefcg1 View Post
So I checked my tires this morning; I just had discount tire put them on last week and my fronts were at 29psi! rears were fine at 36psi. I added air and the car drives much better...go figure. I guess you just can't trust the installers these days.
I run 36 psi front and 38 psi rear, after many tire pressure changes over the years I feal that it gave me the best turn in and traction. My dealership tech recomended 38 psi for the front due to the negative camber from the M-3 suspension parts but 36 felt better to me.
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      03-30-2011, 06:04 AM   #278
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I run 36 psi front and 38 psi rear, after many tire pressure changes over the years I feal that it gave me the best turn in and traction. My dealership tech recomended 38 psi for the front due to the negative camber from the M-3 suspension parts but 36 felt better to me.
good to know, thanks! I'll bump up the rears to 2 psi and see how that feels.
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      04-01-2011, 11:16 AM   #279
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I PM'ed Harold and I'll see what he recommends. Thanks!
Curious to hear what Harold has said. Thanks!
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      04-01-2011, 05:31 PM   #280
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Curious to hear what Harold has said. Thanks!
Please PM or email me with your questions.

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      05-15-2012, 09:44 AM   #281
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This is great info, thanks!
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      05-15-2012, 04:42 PM   #282
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question- can I install only the tension strut rods without the control arms?
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      05-16-2012, 02:13 PM   #283
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question- can I install only the tension strut rods without the control arms?
You can but why? If your going to do that just replace the old bushings with the myle HD bushings and save some money.
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      05-16-2012, 04:27 PM   #284
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You can but why? If your going to do that just replace the old bushings with the myle HD bushings and save some money.
oh really? I thought it would easier for DIY to do the whole arm rather than just the bushing. Do these arms "wear" out? What are these HD bushings you speak of?


p.s thanks for answering
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      05-17-2012, 01:45 AM   #285
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oh really? I thought it would easier for DIY to do the whole arm rather than just the bushing. Do these arms "wear" out? What are these HD bushings you speak of?


p.s thanks for answering
Kind of defeating the whole purpose of improving the handling with one suspension alteration. What's the point???
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      05-17-2012, 12:33 PM   #286
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Originally Posted by Donia330i View Post
oh really? I thought it would easier for DIY to do the whole arm rather than just the bushing. Do these arms "wear" out? What are these HD bushings you speak of?


p.s thanks for answering
You can replace the whole arm with a Meyle for $90 each http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...-31126769798my
if you don't want the negative camber up front and just want stiffer bushings.
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