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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > M3 Wishbone links, Tesnion Links, and Strut Brace Installed!



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      12-07-2008, 06:53 PM   #67
Fraggy
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Yea, they are good guys over there!
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      12-08-2008, 03:57 AM   #68
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Mr.5...btw what happened to your AFE intake and RR oil catch can?
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      12-08-2008, 02:58 PM   #69
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This really has me thinking of doing on my 335. It would be awesome to get the steering feel of the M3 on that car.

Are the parts the same for the sedan?
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      12-08-2008, 03:18 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
This really has me thinking of doing on my 335. It would be awesome to get the steering feel of the M3 on that car.

Are the parts the same for the sedan?
Yes, they are the same, as long as it's not the xi.
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      12-08-2008, 06:39 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. 5 View Post
Which one would you take?
I'd take the bridge less traveled.
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      12-08-2008, 07:11 PM   #72
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That's great, thanks Richwm!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Richwm View Post
Part Number: 31102283577 Core Price Your Price
Front suspension - Front suspension - Lower control arm - Rear arm Rear arm, m series, left - 2wd 2008
$79.98

Part Number: 31102283578 Core Price Your Price
Front suspension - Front suspension - Lower control arm - Rear arm Rear arm, m series, right - 2wd 2008
$79.98

Part Number: 31102283575 Core Price Your Price
Front suspension - Front suspension - Lower control arm - Front arm Front arm, m series, left - 2wd 2008
$114.36

Part Number: 31102283576 Core Price Your Price
Front suspension - Front suspension - Lower control arm - Front arm Front arm, m series, right - 2wd 2008
$114.3

Total: $388.68
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      12-08-2008, 07:56 PM   #73
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The M/M-sport suspension package: (prices rounded, approximate, and no doubt subject to change... HP Autowerks has kits for control arms, tension rods, rear subframe bushings, and strut brace; Tischer has kits for dampers+springs+rear sway, control arms+tension rods+rear subframe bushings, and strut brace)


$550 BMW Perf dampers
$350 BMW Perf springs
$100 M-sport rear sway
($980 for kit @ Tischer)

$405 Front control arms & tension rods
$220 M3 Rear subframe bushings
$600 Rear guide rods and upper links
_____
$2205 sub-total
_____

$315 M3 Front strut brace
$50 Used E92 rear chassis brace (for E90) or $350 Hotchkis
_____
$2570 total

About the cost of the Premium package... I know which option I would choose!

Install costs will vary depending on who does it, but note that at a minimum you will need a proper alignment. Good shops are likely to charge about $400 for the dampers+springs, $300 for the rear sway, $300 for rear bushings (might be savings doing them together with sway or differential LSD work), $100 for control arms+tension rods, and $100 for alignment.

OT here, but add the BMW Perf exhaust, brake kit (when available for 335), forged wheels & non-rfts, Quaife LSD, tune, lightweight battery, interior & exterior M-sport bits, and along with the suspension stuff above, you have a car similar in most performance respects to the M3 for 15-18k depending on labor costs. At least 100 lbs. lighter to boot. Sure would make a factory ZMP/tii package with most of the above stuff a bargain at 4-5k...

Last edited by stressdoc; 12-10-2008 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Price changes
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      12-10-2008, 11:10 AM   #74
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I edited the first page to get rid of the prices.
They have changed a bit since I have purchased them.
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      12-14-2008, 09:53 AM   #75
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Mr. 5 did you have any problems geting the wishbones into the sub-frame mount? mine were so tight that I had to beat them in with a rubber mallet. Oh and my original tension struts were shot the bushings were like jello, I could move them with my fingers. Thanks to you and ORB all of my front suspension issues are now solved and my car now drives better than when it was new.
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180K miles.
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      12-14-2008, 10:46 AM   #76
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These mods make great sense for those with high mileage cars.
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      12-14-2008, 04:05 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stressdoc View Post
These mods make great sense for those with high mileage cars.
+1 I think my tension strut bushings were bad at 75k miles. The wishbones were fine but I just wanted to do both M parts.
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180K miles.
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      12-14-2008, 04:48 PM   #78
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As a general rule it's a good idea to replace the system as a whole.
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      12-15-2008, 01:37 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stressdoc View Post
As a general rule it's a good idea to replace the system as a whole.
Might as well do both the tension rods and wishbone links while you are in there with the tires off!
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      12-21-2008, 08:16 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. 5 View Post
So after reading Orb's thread with the M3 parts, it really made me make a decision with where I wanted to go with modding.
Here is the thread that is very informative.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177028
If you haven't read it yet, then you probably should before reading on so you get some more answers.

Before, I was only concerned about making my car faster and faster and I was thinking that more power meant faster. It does to an extent, but if one has a better tuned suspension, yet it has 6 less hp, then this car will be faster on a road course.

So, I took the plunge.
Thanks a bunch to Harold from HP Autowerks and Evan@Tischer!
Without them, I wouldn't have these parts!
Hats off to these guys for excellent customer service!!

I ordered the following:

Left Wishbone link--31102283577
Right Wishbone link--31102283578
Left Tension link--31102283575
Right Tension link--31102283576
M3 Strut brace (All Parts) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...61&hg=51&fg=75
Rental of my friend's shop was $50, so no labor costs.

Most would say that the under steer with this car completely sucks!
Some think that if you put a thick sway bar in the rear then you will correct it and that is so not true.
What will happen in this case is you will start to under steer, and then go directly into snap overseer. This is when you will see the world start to spin while you yell obscenities to yourself.

So, what happened after the install?
First off, the most important thing that I need to say is that if you install the wishbone links, you need to make sure that the same shop that installs these performs alignments as well.
Don't even think that you will drive to an alignment shop to get it done because it will be very dangerous.
Trust me on this please! I tried it and it was very scary!
I drove back to my friend's shop and adjusted it myself the old fashioned way.
I straightened the wheel and measured the front of the tire and the back of the tire.
The toe alignment was so far off that the rear was of the tires was 1.75" longer than the front!!

With all that said, the feeling of the car is 100% better. There is so much more feedback with the steering. Meaning, when I turn the steering wheel, it's a bit tighter, but not too tight. The steering wheel doesn't try to pop out of my hands and it doesn't feel light. It does exactly what I want it to do.
Having said that, you can feel more of the road as well.
I do understand why BMW chose to put the hydraulic bushings in because the so called typical BMW driver would most likely complain since they can feel the bumps in the steering wheel, but I believe that this is a very important feature to have for a modified car. We need to feel the bumps in the road. We need to be able to react as quickly as possible, so the more information that is being transferred to me via the steering wheel, the better Iím going to drive the car.

Iíll give you an example, after I installed the lower links, I noticed that my steering wheel was vibrating on the freeway. It turns out that one of the weights fell or came off my car in the past and I never noticed it. I have been driving around on a wheel that wasnít balanced correctly and I never noticed it. Once I installed the M2 links, I noticed it right away.

As far as the M3 strut brace, Iím sure itís doing its job as well. It would have been nice to do one at a time but then again, doing everything all at once saves time and money, and letís face itóI was excited to get it on.

The fitment of the strut brace was perfect except for one thing. The studs need to be taken out since the microfilter housing will rub on the studs. I went to the local hardware store and picked up some stainless steel flanged bolts. That did the job.

Sorry about the pictures of the compared tension links and wishbone links.
I forgot my camera at the shop so I used my friendís camera phone.

The first picture is comparing the wishbone links. The bottom link is the M3 link. Notice how the bushing is completely different and that the M3 link is longer. This will actually add some negative camber to the front since itís pushing the lower wheel out more than the 335 link does.
The second picture is comparing the tension links. The bottom is the M3 link. Again, notice how this link is also a bit longer, and look at the size of the rubber bushing. Itís very stiff compared to the 335 link.
The third picture is is a group photo.

The other pictures are detailed pictures of the strut brace installed.

Just curious..How do you get that "V" section of the M strut brace connect under the cowl? Does the cowl and wipers have to come off to remove the OEM brace and to install the M brace. It looks like it fits in a tunnel...everything else looks straight forward.
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      12-21-2008, 08:43 PM   #81
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M strut brace install question

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
Might as well do both the tension rods and wishbone links while you are in there with the tires off!
Just curious..How do you get that "V" section of the M strut brace to connect under the cowl? Does the cowl and wipers have to come off to remove the OEM brace and to install the M brace. It looks like it fits in a tunnel...everything else looks straight forward.
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      12-21-2008, 08:54 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PuNiShEr View Post
Just curious..How do you get that "V" section of the M strut brace to connect under the cowl? Does the cowl and wipers have to come off to remove the OEM brace and to install the M brace. It looks like it fits in a tunnel...everything else looks straight forward.
I asked this before and didn't get an answer -- must be something simple like you can undo the nut from underneath and it's just hard to see from the picture. That or else the circular plug comes out and gives access from above.
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      12-22-2008, 02:30 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PuNiShEr View Post
Just curious..How do you get that "V" section of the M strut brace to connect under the cowl? Does the cowl and wipers have to come off to remove the OEM brace and to install the M brace. It looks like it fits in a tunnel...everything else looks straight forward.
Just pop off the plastic cover/plug and you can access the bolt from there. No need to remove the cowl and wipers.
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      12-27-2008, 07:18 PM   #84
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Tension struts only

So many thanks to you guys for trying this stuff out. Is the bushing in the 335 wishbone really that weak? Those of you who did the replacement, what do you think? I'd like to do only the tension struts, and avoid (some of) the camber change.
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      12-29-2008, 09:01 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyu View Post
So many thanks to you guys for trying this stuff out. Is the bushing in the 335 wishbone really that weak? Those of you who did the replacement, what do you think? I'd like to do only the tension struts, and avoid (some of) the camber change.
The bushings in my wishbones were fine after 95k miles but the tension struts were very soft so I think you would be fine only changing the tension struts.
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      12-29-2008, 01:01 PM   #86
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The problem with changing just one part is that the remaining soft OEM parts are then subject to more force. It's like having two equal rubber bands connected to one another; when you pull them apart, they both stretch equally. If you replace one of the rubber bands with a thicker/stiffer one, then when you pull them apart the same distance as before (same force) the thinner/more elastic one will be stretched much further, because the stiffer one does not stretch as much.
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      12-29-2008, 02:33 PM   #87
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Thanks guys. I wish I could find a photo of the front suspension, so I can visualize exactly where these parts are going. The parts diagram in the ETK is not helping me.

There must be a useful photo in the media section of e90post, but I haven't found anything yet. We need a tagging system for photos.
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      12-29-2008, 08:20 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richwm View Post
The bushings in my wishbones were fine after 95k miles but the tension struts were very soft so I think you would be fine only changing the tension struts.

We don't see a problem just changing one of the components as each one exposed to a diff force. However, why not do both if you are already in there doing the upgrade!
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