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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Camber Procedure?



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      12-20-2008, 03:02 PM   #1
335lvr
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Camber Procedure-Tire Shop Confusing Me.

My left front is way out of camber and I found the following info regarding a factory pin which can be removed to allow some camber play:

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Originally Posted by SoCalTech View Post
It absolutely is. The pin is there because it is what the factory uses for assembly to make sure it's within spec. The alignment procedure calls for knocking out/unscrewing the pin (depending on model), loosening the 3 13mm nuts, and moving the strut with the slotted adjustment holes.
Does anyone have a pic of the pin or diagram showing it and the full procedure...need to give something to the tire shop....tired of hearing how camber doesn't effect tire wear as much as toe, yet I'm getting outer tire wear on 1 side.

Thanks.

UPDATE: OK, went to my local tire shop, showed them the wear I'm getting on the left side and here are some of the responses:
-Although you are slightly out of specified range for your left front camber, BMW sets their car up for the driver, i.e. as soon as you sit in the car, the tire moves to negative camber in range.
-With less than .1 degree from spec, the wear shouldn't be attributed to it.
-High performance PS2 tires have a softer compound on the outside edge for grip and you should expect faster wear when driven hard.
-YOu've changed the geometry of the set-up by going with non-oem wheels.
-BMWs usually have outer or inner tire wear, the car is made for sport and some strange wear should be expected.

At this point, I pointed to the wear on the outside edge of just the left tire and then pointed to the only setting out of range on the alignment: left front camber. I asked about removing the pin and moving the strut assembly for camber adjustment and heard the following:

-That is not an approved procedure and has liability for us to attempt it.
-YOu will be changing the dynamics of the suspension, etc. which may affect air-bag deployment, adaptive cruise control, and other systems.
-The pin is there for a reason and should not be adjusted/removed.

Finally, he gave me a wink-wink and said if I removed the pin and moved the strut somewhat myself: I could bring it in and the would align to specs. Looking for comments/suggestions.
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Last edited by 335lvr; 12-31-2008 at 12:19 PM.
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      12-22-2008, 09:09 PM   #2
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alignment

Did you get an answer to your question because I am in the process of looking for a place to align my car, recently lowered on KW V2 and bms wants 250-300 to do the alignment and balance the car?
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      12-23-2008, 11:34 AM   #3
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Nope....still waiting. Just need to know where exactly that pin is.
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      12-23-2008, 04:29 PM   #4
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The nut to the right is one of 3 that you loosen to adjust the camber. You have to jack up that side to alleviate tension when adjusting it. The pin is by the nut that is hidden by the strut tower brace in this picture.

This is off of an M5, but the principle is still the same. By the bottom right nut, that little opening is where the pin used to be.
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      12-23-2008, 04:55 PM   #5
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Thank-you!
The pin on mine looks like an allen wrench nut....so just unscrew, loosen nuts and align?
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      12-24-2008, 01:09 AM   #6
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That is correct!
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      12-31-2008, 12:49 PM   #7
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To the top.
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      12-31-2008, 02:58 PM   #8
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STOP!

Don't ever go to the place that told you that fucking retarded story, that is some of the dumbest &%(^#)^$%(#$




1: you CAN NOT just loosen the bolts and adjust your camber yourself and expect it to be "in spec" that is completely idiotic, you will be 20 times farther off spec then when you started. It's hard to adjust camber by tenths on an alignment machine in the first place, no way in hell are you going to be able to by eyeballing it.

2. .1 degrees is NOTHING and going to be completely impossible to notice in tire wear.

3: alignments are done (or supposed to be) with your weight in the car.

4: wheels don't change geometry


stay away from that place.
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      01-01-2009, 09:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
STOP!

Don't ever go to the place that told you that fucking retarded story, that is some of the dumbest &%(^#)^$%(#$




1: you CAN NOT just loosen the bolts and adjust your camber yourself and expect it to be "in spec" that is completely idiotic, you will be 20 times farther off spec then when you started. It's hard to adjust camber by tenths on an alignment machine in the first place, no way in hell are you going to be able to by eyeballing it.

2. .1 degrees is NOTHING and going to be completely impossible to notice in tire wear.

3: alignments are done (or supposed to be) with your weight in the car.

4: wheels don't change geometry


stay away from that place.
Haha...I think you're right.

Here's a scan of my alignment for what it's worth:
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