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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Just got my Procede Rev.II!!



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      01-10-2009, 05:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prich2004 View Post
If you shift manually while in DS mode, you are in "manual" mode (M). If I am in M5, and I floor it, the car will downshift to M3 or M4 by itself...
switch to DS, then switch to M by shifting into a gear.
floor it lightly, but don't hit the kickdown...

press lightly, and you will feel the pedal stop. that is 100% throttle. if you push further, it will push the kickdownbutton, and the car with downshift.

Also, if on a dyno, make sure to DISABLE DTC and DSC by holding the DTC button for 5 seconds (traction light will come on solid) BEFORE you do your dyno runs...
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      01-10-2009, 05:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiXst3r View Post
switch to DS, then switch to M by shifting into a gear.
floor it lightly, but don't hit the kickdown...

press lightly, and you will feel the pedal stop. that is 100% throttle. if you push further, it will push the kickdownbutton, and the car with downshift.

Also, if on a dyno, make sure to DISABLE DTC and DSC by holding the DTC button for 5 seconds (traction light will come on solid) BEFORE you do your dyno runs...

Ok, so when you hit that sweet spot at 100% throttle, then it is ok to shift into the next gear? If not, how would you explain how to do a proper dyno from the very beginning, step by step so I can give the advice to the tech. I made sure that DTC and DSC were disabled and the a/c was off. Next dyno is on the house.
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      01-10-2009, 05:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prich2004 View Post
Ok, so when you hit that sweet spot at 100% throttle, then it is ok to shift into the next gear? If not, how would you explain how to do a proper dyno from the very beginning, step by step so I can give the advice to the tech. I made sure that DTC and DSC were disabled and the a/c was off. Next dyno is on the house.
The goal with a dyno is to go from below 2000 rpms to 7000rpms with no shifting, all at 100% throttle.

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1) The brand of dyno matters. They all read (and work) differently so if you want to compare numbers with others find an actual Dynojet dyno.

2) If possible do a baseline dyno before your modifications so you can measure the power increase. For those of you using an off brand dyno, failure to perform this step will result in numbers that are impossible to analyze. If you can't do a before dyno and you're not using a Dynojet, don't waste your money or time.

3) Make sure the car is fully adapted to your modifications before you go. If you just added race gas, floor the car a few times so it can adapt to the higher octane.

4) Bring along a USB flash drive to take home your runs.

5) The better the fans, the higher the dyno numbers. Make sure the dyno shop you use has adequate fans and ventilation.

6) The N54 always dynos better in colder weather, despite correction factors. Take this in to consideration when picking a day to dyno and when comparing numbers with others. Corrected runs in 50 degree temps will generally result in higher numbers than those in 100 degree temps, all else being equal. So if you want to improve your chances for a dyno record, go on a cold day. Just be prepared for skeptics to complain about your optimal weather.

7) Correction factors do not properly take in to account altitude. If you live in a high altitude area, do not try to compare your corrected numbers to others at sea level. Try to find a dyno close to sea level.


Once you arrive:

1) To connect the RPM pickup use an allen wrench to loosen and lift the plastic engine cover. The tach pickup connects to the wire bundle going to a coil pack. If the dyno operator can't get a signal, just move to another bundle under there until you find one that works.

2) Measure air/fuel ratios from the right tailpipe. This avoids confusion if your factory exhaust flapper is not disabled. As a side note, ignore the dyno operator when he freaks out about how lean your air/fuel ratios are. The N54 is a direct injection motor and typically runs 14.5:1 air/fuel ratios in the midrange stock. Also ignore the power/torque dip around 4000rpm, it is a cam timing event.

3) Disable the traction control system.

3a) For manual transmissions: Do all runs in 4th gear from 2000rpm to 7000rpm.

3b) For automatic transmissions: This is very confusing and likely your dyno operator will not be smart enough to do this, so don’t be afraid to operate the car on the dyno yourself.

Shift the car in to 4th gear in sport mode, bring the RPMs up to around 1800-2200, and then floor the car to right before the kick down switch. If you floor it all the way, the car will downshift and screw up your run. If this happens abort the run and try again. The kick down is a small button at the end of the gas pedal travel and you can practice with the car off, or on the way to the dynoshop.

4) When analyzing your runs, move the correction factor to STD, and the smoothing to 5. The early 335i tuning gods decided this was the appropriate factor for the N54 so using the more appropriate SAE factor will likely result in your disappointment.

5) Copy your .DRF run files to your USB drive to take home. You can download Dynojet winpep software online free of change to create graphs, combine runs on to one chart, change correction algorithms, and analyze your runs.
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      01-10-2009, 05:55 PM   #26
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Exactly what I needed. Perfect thanks!!!!
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      01-13-2009, 09:39 AM   #27
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as i have 29.1.1 version in my 335i what map will be installed into Procede Rev.II Race when i will buy it? cos i dont have laptop
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      01-13-2009, 10:00 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by **335i** View Post
as i have 29.1.1 version in my 335i what map will be installed into Procede Rev.II Race when i will buy it? cos i dont have laptop
You can run either, doomsday to play it safe.
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      01-13-2009, 10:10 AM   #29
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why do you need the USB cable? I thought the Procede II has the wireless built into it?
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      01-13-2009, 10:45 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Dirt View Post
why do you need the USB cable? I thought the Procede II has the wireless built into it?
It comes with a wireless map switcher, to select between your already loaded maps. Loading maps is done exactly the same as with all other procede versions.
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      01-13-2009, 11:17 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiXst3r View Post
It comes with a wireless map switcher, to select between your already loaded maps. Loading maps is done exactly the same as with all other procede versions.
Darn, I was hoping to not having to run an additional cable if I went this route. Oh well back to the drawing board...
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      01-13-2009, 11:18 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiXst3r View Post
You can run either, doomsday to play it safe.
maybe also it can be programed with doomsday map when buying it? as i understood it comes with serial cable to connect to laptop?
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      01-13-2009, 11:26 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by **335i** View Post
maybe also it can be programed with doomsday map when buying it? as i understood it comes with serial cable to connect to laptop?
Uploading maps isn't a problem. I'll help you during installation. And no, it doesn't come with serial->usb cable. I bought one and will put it into glove box.
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      01-13-2009, 11:30 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edo View Post
Uploading maps isn't a problem. I'll help you during installation. And no, it doesn't come with serial->usb cable. I bought one and will put it into glove box.
thanks edo so what cables should i buy in advance? usb or serial to put it into glove box?
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      01-13-2009, 11:33 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by **335i** View Post
thanks edo so what cables should i buy in advance? usb or serial to put it into glove box?
It's a serial to usb cable, not one or the other.
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      01-13-2009, 11:42 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by jpsimon View Post
It's a serial to usb cable, not one or the other.
Yes, and it will make your life much easier when you want to change maps.
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      01-13-2009, 11:52 AM   #37
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Btw, how long should the cable be? The one I bought is 4 feet long. Is it enough?
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      01-13-2009, 11:54 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edo View Post
Uploading maps isn't a problem. I'll help you during installation. And no, it doesn't come with serial->usb cable. I bought one and will put it into glove box.
Could you Edo do me / maybe many others a favour when installing your COM->USB cable from ECUbox to glovebox... if you could TAKE SOME DETAILED PICTURES!!

I know that there´s a DIY about it but some more pictures wouldn't hurt

Thanks

-Ville-
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      01-13-2009, 12:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ville View Post
Could you Edo do me / maybe many others a favour when installing your COM->USB cable from ECUbox to glovebox... if you could TAKE SOME DETAILED PICTURES!!

I know that there´s a DIY about it but some more pictures wouldn't hurt

Thanks

-Ville-
OK, no problem. But the thing is I'll install it only in about 2 months, when winter ends and ther's no snow. By the time other parts should arrive.
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      01-13-2009, 12:07 PM   #40
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Wink

OK, actually I'm wondering here if I should do it at once I receive my Procede or wait until all the snow/ice is gone...I HATE THE WINTER

Can't wait to get it installed
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      01-13-2009, 02:41 PM   #41
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wonder does it take any sense if you have 29.1.1 or 29.2 when programing rev II with maps?
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      01-13-2009, 03:26 PM   #42
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6 feet would be best because there will be room to play around with in the glovebox to the laptop
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      01-13-2009, 03:31 PM   #43
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get a 6' cable from radio shack, costs about 32 bucks! i think the brand i have is Gigiwire

GL
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