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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > VRSF Charge Pipe Install for N55



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      08-21-2014, 11:57 AM   #1
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VRSF Charge Pipe Install for N55

This is a DIY for installing a VRSF Charge Pipe on an N55 335i, this may be applicable to other aftermarket Charge Pipes as well. Read thoroughly before taking anything apart, and feel free to PM or comment with any questions/concerns.

Difficulty: 1/5
Time: 20-40min

Tools:
- Torx T30
- Torx T20
- 10mm Hex Socket (extender would be useful)
- Flathead screwdriver
- A bit for the two Boost Sensor screws provided with your CP
- Gloves (optional, things are pretty hot)

VRSF CP
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First Stage: Removing Air Intake
Remove OEM airbox lid by unplugging MAF sensor connector, unsnapping 4 clips holding it down to airbox, and removing the single screw holding it to the OEM rubber elbow.
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After you pull out the intake you will be left with a box that needs to be pulled out. The only thing keeping this box attached is two rubber grommets and some tubes attached in the rear.
You will begin by detaching the 3 hoses behind the box by pulling up on them (Green Circles). There is a 4th small hose held down by a clip, unclip it. Now the box is only held down by two rubber grommets, push them down and pull up on the box (Red Cirlces)
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Second Stage: Removing stock Charge Pipe
Now you should have access to the stock Charge Pipe. The pipe is held down in 3 locations as well as the attached boost sensor. First remove the boost sensor with a Torx T20. (pull it out gently, donít want to damage this)
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Next you will remove the stock Charge Pipe
  1. 1. Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp
  2. 2. Use a Torx T30 to take off this bolt (you will no longer need this bolt)
  3. 3. Use a Flathead screwdriver to pry this piece off (You will need this, keep it)
Time to pry the CP off, detach at location #3 and give a solid pull at location #1.
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Third Stage: Installing the VRSF Charge Pipe
Place the new O ring on the new CP. (VRSF provided a new O, if you do not have one then transfer your old one over to the new CP) It is recommended that you oil up the O ring.
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Place a T-Clamp (or whatever you were provided) onto the smaller end of the Rubber connector, and ease it onto the connection pictured below.
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Attach the Charge Pipe and the other T-Clamp to the larger end of the rubber connector, do not tighten the clamps yet.
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Maneuver the top of the Charge Pipe to fit onto the top connection shown below, this may take some time just be patient.
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Place the piece that was originally keeping the stock CP connected at the top onto the new CP, this should keep the new CP in place so that you can connect the Boost Sensor and tighten the T-Clamps below.
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Attach Boost sensor. You should have been supplied two small screws with the new Charge Pipe that will be used to attach the Boost Sensor. Be very careful not to drop these screws, and to align them perfectly straight before screwing them in. (Providing same image, couldn't take a picture)
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Final Stage: Tightening T-Clamps
If you do not attach the clamps correctly the CP will pop off during your first major boost peak. (This happened to me)

The rubber connector must be pushed as far onto each connection as possible, after you are sure you cannot feed anymore pipe into either end of the rubber connector you will move each of the two T-Clamps to the furthest edge of the rubber connector. Make sure when you tighten the T-Clamp with the 10mm socket that the clamp does not move to the sides. If you are not sure if the clamp is tight enough then it is not tight enough, keep tightening until you canít anymore. It should look like this at the end.
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Congratulations: You have installed your new Charge Pipe!!
Yank it around a little bit to make sure it is as secure as possible, then begin putting everything else back together. I highly recommend using a code reader such as Cobb AP to clear all codes then take it out for a good hard run and read codes afterwards. If you hear a pop then the rubber connector most likely popped off, just stay off the boost and return home slowly to re-attach it.
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      08-23-2014, 04:18 PM   #2
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Thanks for this write-up. Perfect instructions. Worked beautifully for my ER CP
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      09-08-2014, 04:16 PM   #3
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Quick question on this, the clip that holds the charge pipe to the throttle body, do you install it after you fit the charge pipe on throttle body or before? From the pics it looks like you attached the charge pipe first to the throttle body and then slid the clip over it.

This clip in red:

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      09-08-2014, 05:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SM335i View Post
Quick question on this, the clip that holds the charge pipe to the throttle body, do you install it after you fit the charge pipe on throttle body or before? From the pics it looks like you attached the charge pipe first to the throttle body and then slid the clip over it.

This clip in red:

You have to slide that clip on last. Let me know if you have any issues with the install. It should be a breeze, I just like to over-document things in case anyone runs into problems.
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      09-21-2014, 01:17 PM   #5
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Great detail DIY
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      05-18-2015, 09:00 AM   #6
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Great DIY instructions! I finished my VRSF N55 install yesterday. Not too bad. Took a little over an hour with me taking my time and making sure everything is bolted down tightly.

One thing I would like to point out is that getting the boost sensor in the VRSF charge pipe takes a little wiggle. If you try to just push it in I felt like it may break and I definitely did not want to end up with that happening.
It did however go in pretty easily by gently by twisting it back and forth.

Took her out for a test drive and it all seemed to hold up well! I definitely feel more confident now with my tune.
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      05-18-2015, 09:15 AM   #7
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The only thing I would edit is the word c clip. The only c clip is the one that attaches to the throttle body. The other two are called t clamps. Just don't want anyone to get confused in the future.
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      05-18-2015, 07:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacblack View Post
The only thing I would edit is the word c clip. The only c clip is the one that attaches to the throttle body. The other two are called t clamps. Just don't want anyone to get confused in the future.
Thank you for the tip, just edited the post. Glad the DIY is being put to use.
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      10-30-2015, 12:29 PM   #9
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Thanks for the write up!
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      04-02-2016, 12:52 PM   #10
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but does anyone know what size that screw is for the boost sensor? I have a used vrsf but do not have those screws and thinking about picking them up at a hardware store.
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      06-05-2016, 09:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soccerplr View Post
Sorry to bump an old thread, but does anyone know what size that screw is for the boost sensor? I have a used vrsf but do not have those screws and thinking about picking them up at a hardware store.


Did you find this out? I'm in need as well.
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      09-01-2016, 01:40 PM   #12
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For the xi version, this wouldnt be same install? correct?
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      11-13-2016, 09:26 PM   #13
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Thank you for this write up, it really helped me get my new CP on and my car is back to running great.
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      01-17-2017, 10:30 AM   #14
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Just received mine.......other than less likely to crack like oem plastic CP, are there any benefits? Besides the bung hole for meth.
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      01-17-2017, 11:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E36graduate View Post
Just received mine.......other than less likely to crack like oem plastic CP, are there any benefits? Besides the bung hole for meth.
Not too many other benefits besides avoiding or replacing a cracked charge pipe.

Looks fancy?
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      02-26-2017, 06:41 PM   #16
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This was a perfect diy. Thank you it's installed and has held boost with no leak at WOT all day. Only one concern really. Did you feel the silicon connector? Like on the underside? Mine has a noticeable kink from the fit. Does yours?
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      05-08-2017, 12:07 PM   #17
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Does battery need to be disconnected before unplugging the sensors?
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      05-08-2017, 02:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregmitch View Post
Does battery need to be disconnected before unplugging the sensors?
No, but you can wait for the car to go to sleep if you want to be conservative. Which means don't lock/unlock or open the doors for at least 15 minutes.
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      07-13-2017, 05:50 PM   #19
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My charge pipe came with 2 bung holes completely open and no screws to plug them.... can anyone advise on this? Whats the deal?
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      07-14-2017, 05:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestimp View Post
My charge pipe came with 2 bung holes completely open and no screws to plug them.... can anyone advise on this? Whats the deal?
They sometimes fall out in the box.

That being said they are just basic 1/8NPT Threads. You can find a bolt or fitting at any hardware store / plumbing isle.
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      07-15-2017, 11:56 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
They sometimes fall out in the box.

That being said they are just basic 1/8NPT Threads. You can find a bolt or fitting at any hardware store / plumbing isle.
Werent in the box, so had to go out and find what you said.

Last edited by thestimp; 07-17-2017 at 10:30 AM.
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      08-07-2017, 03:21 PM   #22
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Removed links to bad Photobucket images and uploaded them via bimmerpost.
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