That's a cool video, thanks for sharing. I love how DIY video makes everything seem so easy. If anyone tried to bleed the clutch on an e90 you know it is not that easy because the bleed valve is located in a very tight space. I did not have room to loosen the nut on the valve.

Everything is so easy when you assembled it on top of a work bench

You have to use a 7/16 wrench not ratched one, I got at at sears for $2

The first turn is the hardest (opening it) and is easier by pushing the metal tubing a little which is connected to the CDV

Also dont waste your money buying a modified cdv because all it takes is a thin drill bit. Basically just insert the drill bit through the smaller hole in the cdv. Just put pressure while the drill bit is turning and the restrictor will just fall out. Dont worry you wont break anything.

after the restrictor comes out, just clean the cdv and blow air through it to get any plastic fragments out.

So is drilling necessary, it sounds like you can actually push it out with the thin drill bit.

dude don't drill it. You just need a hex wrench thats small enough to go thru the smaller opening but big enough to not come all the way out. place the cdv on the ground, big opening down. stick the hex wrench thru the smaller opening till it stops. Get a hammer and lightly tap once on the wrench, the "guts" will come out right away w/o much force. Trust me, this is the best way to do it. its just a plastic stopper.

Correct you can just push it out with a hex wrench, but I used a drill and a tiny drill bit because I have a steady hand and it was faster.

Good luck...

I know this is an old thread, but I've just removed my E92 CDV today, and ended up with no fluid in the system after trying to bleed... The reservoir was up to the MAX mark, so I was mystified, and worried that I wouldn't be able to figure it out.

Eventually I noticed that the way the reservoir is partitioned for brake / clutch is bloody daft... There is a tiny tiny little partition at the back left (where the flexible woven reinforced pipe exits to clutch master). This is the only volume of fluid dedicated to clutch, and only flows in from the rest of the reservoir when it is absolutely brim full (way above the MAX line).

Hence it is very easy and not at all obvious that the reservoir can be at MAX level, but the clutch reserve is gone!!!!

After noticing this and keeping the reservoir absolutely full, I still couldn't satisfactorily bleed all the air out, and it's still a bit spongy but luckily drivable... After reading this thread, I'll be buying an oil can to try again...

Hey, GL with the oil can method and let us know how well the oil can method work.

It's actually an 11mm wrench but 7/16 will work.

What an excellent video and post. Thanks very much.

Anyone try this method?

I've used it. It works. And yes, the partition height in the brake reservoir is retarded.

Ok, I tried this to no avail. Oilers are cheaply made and the oiler I found delivered air mixed in with the brake fluid. I tried to use a water bottle held upside down with a hose through the cap in place of the oiler. I forced a whole 12oz bottle of brake fluid up into the clutch system, and it the pedal was still mushy. I finally went back to my vacuum pump brake bleeder. I held just a few inches vacuum against the closed bleeder, and instructed my helper to slowly press the clutch pedal. I cracked open the bleeder for a split second and tons of fluid and bubbles came out. We did that 4 times, filled the res, 4 more times, filled the res, and 4 more times and we were good to go. The few inches of vacuum ensured no air could enter the bleeder, and the pressure on the pedal forced the air through the system.