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      01-28-2016, 08:54 PM   #1
fmoua916
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Screw me!!!Extracting broken screw!!!

Ok installing bms chargepipe and everything was going smoothly until im swaping over the sensor onto the chargepipe and they both broke while screwing them in!!! Are there extractors small enough to extract these two screws out or is this chargepipe just trash now??? Freakin piss off. Or maybe an auto shop can extract them out???

***or thinking about maybe using jbweld or sometype of epoxy glue to just permaantly stick the sensor on there but dont no if it will be strong enough to hold onto it or from the pressure build up in the pipe it will blow it out after time.


Last edited by fmoua916; 01-28-2016 at 09:42 PM.
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      01-28-2016, 09:12 PM   #2
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Seems Vice-grip worthy here. Both have enough protruding to grab and twist. If the vice starts to slip then stop. And and try a small flat head and mallot hitting at 90 deg angles.
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      01-28-2016, 09:17 PM   #3
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you probably cross thread both screws or over torque them.

There are some videos on youtube on how to get them out. Usually you can drill them out , or you could get a small needle nose pliers/vice grips and see if you can catch some of the screw to get them out.

Worst case scenario , Superglue may also work , but I would put some tie wraps around it to make sure the sensor stays in place

The other problem you may run into is that the thread may be bad once you get the 2 screws out . There are kits to fix the thread though . Good luck
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      01-28-2016, 09:26 PM   #4
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that looks pretty easy to take out with a screw extractor. Something like this will have it out in no time:
http://www.zoro.com/irwin-hanson-scr...zr/i/G2367242/

You can get a less comprehensive set for quite a bit less money.
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      01-28-2016, 09:37 PM   #5
fmoua916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PichaDis11 View Post
Seems Vice-grip worthy here. Both have enough protruding to grab and twist. If the vice starts to slip then stop. And and try a small flat head and mallot hitting at 90 deg angles.
Already tried vise grips it wont hold
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      01-28-2016, 09:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon View Post
that looks pretty easy to take out with a screw extractor. Something like this will have it out in no time:
http://www.zoro.com/irwin-hanson-scr...zr/i/G2367242/

You can get a less comprehensive set for quite a bit less money.
$150 i rather just buy a new chargepipe and screws haha
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      01-28-2016, 09:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PichaDis11 View Post
Seems Vice-grip worthy here. Both have enough protruding to grab and twist. If the vice starts to slip then stop. And and try a small flat head and mallot hitting at 90 deg angles.
Same here good luck and be patient
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      01-28-2016, 09:53 PM   #8
rick100
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you can find at home depot and it will do the trick

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      01-28-2016, 10:50 PM   #9
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Just an observation, but why are you using screws designed for self threading into plastic on aluminum? Not familiar with the charge pipe you bought but shouldn't the holes be threaded for a proper screw?

Now you are in a pickle because the screws cut their own threads and galled up. These are going to be difficult to remove. What you need to do is cut them flush and slowly drill them out, google drilling out broken screw. With the right tools and a lot of patience you can get it done and save the charge pipe. Then helicoil the threads and reuse.

Good luck
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      01-29-2016, 12:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slupie View Post
Just an observation, but why are you using screws designed for self threading into plastic on aluminum? Not familiar with the charge pipe you bought but shouldn't the holes be threaded for a proper screw?

Now you are in a pickle because the screws cut their own threads and galled up. These are going to be difficult to remove. What you need to do is cut them flush and slowly drill them out, google drilling out broken screw. With the right tools and a lot of patience you can get it done and save the charge pipe. Then helicoil the threads and reuse.

Good luck
These were the screws that was already on the stock chargepipe so i thought it was going to swap over.
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      01-29-2016, 12:02 AM   #11
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Oh will ima just jb weld the sensor onto the chargepipe if i ever need to put the stock one back will just buy a new sensor
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      01-29-2016, 02:03 AM   #12
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Are those tapper wood screws?
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      01-29-2016, 07:06 AM   #13
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What year is this for? I'd be interested in buying it for the right price. If have no problem drilling and tapping this out.
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      01-29-2016, 09:48 AM   #14
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Just get a screw extractor kit for a few bucks at the local hardware store man...
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      01-29-2016, 11:17 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick100
you probably cross thread both screws or over torque them.

There are some videos on youtube on how to get them out. Usually you can drill them out , or you could get a small needle nose pliers/vice grips and see if you can catch some of the screw to get them out.

Worst case scenario , Superglue may also work , but I would put some tie wraps around it to make sure the sensor stays in place

The other problem you may run into is that the thread may be bad once you get the 2 screws out . There are kits to fix the thread though . Good luck
Your probably going to need a screw extractor and perhaps a tool and die set.

Irwin makes the best screw extractors money can buy. They sell a 15 piece and 25 piece. Well worth the money.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002S...fdL&ref=plSrch

You drill a hole in the screw with a cobalt bit and the tap the correct extractor in the hole with a hammer. Then use a ratchet and socket to get the screw out.
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      01-29-2016, 03:09 PM   #16
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MIG-weld a nut to the protruding part and just screw it out with a spanner. Heat will help. The aluminum will not melt if you're quick enough.
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      01-29-2016, 05:13 PM   #17
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I got a broken valve cover screw out of my cylinder head with an autozone extractor set, was like $9 or something.. Just drill a small pilot hole as close to center as you can, then place the extractor bit on there and give it a slight tap into the pilot hole with a hammer.. Used my drill and would click in bursts of like 1-2 seconds and it grabbed on the 3rd or 4th time and came right out.. I have no doubt you can't get this one out because mine was even more flush with the head than yours is with the CP..
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      01-29-2016, 05:18 PM   #18
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I had a broken exhaust stud during turbo swap. The end sheared off. I used combo heat & vicegrips.

I think just vicegrips would work here if tight enough as I think those ends would crush slightly to give it some grip to hang on to.

Make sure they're tight so it's hard to get them closed and then open them and go a tiny turn more. Repeat until it grips. Might be a bitch to close.

You can also go to harbor freight for a cheap rethread set. Easy to fix and you'd never know.
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      01-29-2016, 05:32 PM   #19
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Almost happened to me with VRSF charge pipe, trying to use the stock screws to reattach the sensor. When they were so difficult to screw in I luckily noticed that new (different) screws had come with the new charge pipe. Maybe the BMS one came with its own screws as well?
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      02-02-2016, 08:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmoua916 View Post
These were the screws that was already on the stock chargepipe so i thought it was going to swap over.
Did you have any luck getting the broken screws out?
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      02-02-2016, 09:59 AM   #21
fmoua916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slupie View Post
Did you have any luck getting the broken screws out?
Didnt bother i just jb welded the sensor on and so far holding up fine. Dont look like it will budge even after i tried my harded to take it off after it fully cured.
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      02-02-2016, 10:45 AM   #22
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How did you miss the new bolts that come with the charge pipe? Now you have a messed up charge pipe and sensor rather than just the pipe.
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