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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > DMTL pump bad



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      01-13-2012, 08:00 PM   #23
AndreyT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David1 View Post
You door here the pump for about a second when you unlock the door (or open the drivers door) or the car wakes up.
While I don't know what "You door here the pump..." is supposed to mean, it is still not the DMTL pump that you hear when the car wakes up.
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      02-24-2012, 01:32 PM   #24
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To people who got the DMTL hose replace, did you guys have to pay or was it covered under CPO? Please let me know.. And if you did pay, how much was the cost? My dealer is askign for 690.00
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      02-24-2012, 04:33 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreyT View Post
While I don't know what "You door here the pump..." is supposed to mean, it is still not the DMTL pump that you hear when the car wakes up.

What he meant is that if you "don't hear" a whistling sound coming from the driver's rear of your car and you get those codes, that means your pump is not pumping. The whistling sound is the pump and NOT the amp as others have mentioned in other threads. I hear this sound when i shut off the car. The pump might be on too when i start the car but i wouldn't be able to hear it with the exhuast running as well.
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      02-24-2012, 04:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asado111 View Post
To people who got the DMTL hose replace, did you guys have to pay or was it covered under CPO? Please let me know.. And if you did pay, how much was the cost? My dealer is askign for 690.00
THe DMTL pump, not hose cost me a little over 100 bucks shipped. I easily changed it myself. Mines is a 335i and it's located on the rear driver's side and not passenger side as mentioned earlier.
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      02-24-2012, 04:43 PM   #27
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It's attached to this black canister here.
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      02-24-2012, 07:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asado111 View Post
To people who got the DMTL hose replace, did you guys have to pay or was it covered under CPO? Please let me know.. And if you did pay, how much was the cost? My dealer is askign for 690.00
mine was covered by CPO
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      02-03-2013, 11:11 PM   #29
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Just a tip.. before you visit the dealer or do anything else try to wipe the area of the gas cap. My SES light was coming on with P2402 code and I was resetting it every time but after 2~3 days it would come on again. After a few months of repeating that I read this thread and saw 330icanadian's comment above. After seeing his comment I wiped the gas cap area and reset the code. It's been two months now and the SES light is not coming back ever since.
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      02-03-2013, 11:50 PM   #30
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There is more than 1 issue with dmtl systems on the e90. 1 is the pump going bad itself which would be a 2a17 fc. In this instance a lot of the pumps being replaced are found to have water in them shorting out the pump motor. Don't ask me how moisture gets in them. The other popular one 2a15 dmtl minor leak is often caused by the purge valve not sealing properly (and I've also seen faulty dmtl pumps show a leak when there isn't one), then you have the emissions hose that rubs on the a/c line, and will also throw a 2a15 minor leak dmtl fault. I wish I could help with p-codes but I have never dealt with them on BMW.

I do see a lot of gas caps being left loos also. If you have a green cap still, it prob wouldn't hurt to get a blue click style one to replace it with (updated part)
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      02-04-2013, 08:21 AM   #31
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Just had this exact same thing happen to me. SES light with a p2402 code. Took it in and the dealer said that I needed a new DMTL pump. Quoted me at $500 but when I asked why this wouldn't be covered under CPO warranty they replaced it for me under warranty. Hope this helps.
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      02-16-2013, 11:37 AM   #32
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i just threw the same p2402 code on my 07 328, did you guys notice a decrease in power with it? and where have people found the best price for the part?
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      03-19-2013, 01:09 PM   #33
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Quick question to those who had SES light and replaced DMTL pump....did you notice mileage numbers being erratic? For example in my case:

1) Half tank that used to give me 300~350 km is now giving just about 200~250 km per half tank
2) When doing 120-130 km/hr OBC used to show 8~9L/100km consumption but now shows 6~7L/100KM consumption

Wierd...but I am curious if anyone notice this behaviour.....i have no smell or visible fuel leaks anywhere from quick inspection.
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      03-19-2013, 08:01 PM   #34
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BMW just recently issued a recall for the DTML pump for the E70 X5s. Not sure of the details, but they need to step up and do the same for the E90s!
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      03-19-2013, 10:32 PM   #35
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Actually I just remembered it might have been an extended warranty and not a recall for the E70..
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      10-21-2013, 01:49 AM   #36
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Small clarification...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
DMTL pump is easy to replace. Just remove the panel under the passenger side rear, remove the 3 or 4 screws for the carbon canister, then you can drop that down and see the pump on the front side of the canister.
I interpreted your comment to mean somewhere under the rear passenger seat. Spent a couple hours removing more than one plastic splash shield and looking for it. Could be purely my failure to understand, or lack of clarity on your part, but the panel is the one in the very rear, behind the wheel well.

Also, in some BMWs -- my 335i included -- it is on the LEFT side.

As you wrote, it's an easy DIY project.
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      10-21-2013, 02:00 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwantaw335 View Post
THe DMTL pump, not hose cost me a little over 100 bucks shipped. I easily changed it myself. Mines is a 335i and it's located on the rear driver's side and not passenger side as mentioned earlier.
I have an additional comment about what might be causing them to fail.

My car showed two problems -- P1449 DMTL pump current, and static coming from right rear speaker.

In the thread on the static, one post said he/she found that the cause was water accumulated in the compartment which holds the amp, on the left side of the trunk.

Mine also had moisture there, so that is the principal suspect in the frequent random static I'm getting in the right rear speaker (even when car is turned off -- and some occasional pops in other speakers).

Right below that are the carbon canister and the DMTL pump.

When I went to replace my DMTL pump ($118 including basic shipping from europarts.com or add up to $29.95 for overnight, which I did), I found that the plastic splash shield you have to remove for the DMTL was smashed. And there was a small concurrent hole in the splash shield of the wheel well.

This splash shield, because of its location, is easily damaged. Especially here in Big Bear, where the roads are ... Well, Christopher Dorner got stuck here because he ripped out the rear axle of his truck.

The huge hole in the splash shield (and small hole in fender splash shield where it joins the other one) was allowing pretty violent splashing to hit the DMTL, and is probably the source of the water in the amp compartment above it.

My guess is that this water is the reason for the P1449 current error in the DMTL...possibly splashed water seeping into the plug.

Bottom line: one possible reason for all these DMTL failures is water seepage through cracks and holes in the flimsy plastic splash shields.
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      10-21-2013, 08:13 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insi10 View Post
I interpreted your comment to mean somewhere under the rear passenger seat. Spent a couple hours removing more than one plastic splash shield and looking for it. Could be purely my failure to understand, or lack of clarity on your part, but the panel is the one in the very rear, behind the wheel well.

Also, in some BMWs -- my 335i included -- it is on the LEFT side.

As you wrote, it's an easy DIY project.
I guess you need to read the entire thread. I even attached a photo.
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      11-01-2013, 02:15 AM   #39
insi10
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Read your post several times. Clarity in your own mind isn't clarity in the language itself.
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      11-01-2013, 03:51 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insi10 View Post
Read your post several times. Clarity in your own mind isn't clarity in the language itself.
I wrote that you need to read entire thread. Not just my post. This is the same exact test teachers give out in school, to read entire instructions for the test before beginning the test itself because the instruction at the beginning may say NOT to even do the test.
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      11-11-2013, 04:15 PM   #41
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i have the check engine light on. i had the car on scan, the 2A15 error showed up ,a DTML thing i guess. is it serious?? or it does not affect anything
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      11-11-2013, 06:33 PM   #42
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I replaced DTML pump yesterday because of the code. Some people said it's an "easy" DIY.

Well, not exactly.

I tried to remove the splash shield. I thought I've removed all of screws, but there was one "hidden screw" which was almost impossible to find. I had to jack up and remove the wheel (driver's side and rear wheel only), then removed a few more screws in the wheel wheel to access the DTML. I found the "hidden" screw and was able to remove the splash shield.

The large-diameter hose plugged into the DTML was a "bitch". It took me, like, 10 minutes trying to pull the hose out of it. Also the electricial plug to the DTML was a bit difficult to unplug. You have to squeeze (a bit hard) with your fingers in the right place and it'll unplug from the DTML.

After that, I installed new DTML and put everything back. I used the handheld OBD scanner to remove the code. Make sure that the engine is off while using the scanner.

If the engine is running, you won't be able to remove the code.
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      11-05-2014, 09:10 PM   #43
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2008 BMW 335xi  [0.00]
I know this thread is old, but it does have relevant information. I'm getting my CEL on, with my 2008 335xi.



So I purchased a new DTML pump, brought it to my local indie BMW garage and had them install it. I didn't ask them to diagnose or anything, just install the new part. They said after ~100 miles it should resolve itself. Its been 400+ miles and the code is still there. I've tried clearing it, which does not work.

I had a garage do the install because the location of the pump, is above the exhaust pipes (all the guides appear to be for 328's, which are NOT dual exhaust, and I could not get all the brackets down on my own to lower it enough to get at the heat shield and ultimately the pump itself). If I did this wrong, I'd love to know!

The next solution is the Purge Valve in the engine bay itself? I'm attempting to fix this myself without bringing it back in anywhere, and just looking for some advice and direction. Thanks!
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      11-06-2014, 04:59 AM   #44
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1st you need to clear the codes. I don't understand why the indie shop wouldn't clear the code for you its pretty much standard practice i would say.

When clearing the code make sure the key fob is in the slot and u have pushed the start/stop button WITHOUT pressing down on the brake. You should get a multitude of lights that turn on cluster. Then try to clear the code.

i would also replace the gas cap as this can cause the same error code. If you current cap has a green gasket its time to replace it anyway. $20.00 from Amazon or a number of dealers online.

After these 2 steps run the vehicle and see if the code comes back.
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