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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: changing out the rear struts



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      10-30-2013, 07:11 PM   #23
xroads
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Thanks deadmn1337, I ended up replacing the LCA rubber mount on both sides.
I also replaced items 1 to 7 in diagram on both sides.
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      11-08-2013, 06:14 PM   #24
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If you are replacing the lower shock mount, the one in the aluminum control arm,the 2 torx bolts are size e-12 external torx.
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      07-06-2014, 04:37 PM   #25
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I just replaced the struts on my e90. I don't remember the sizes of the sockets I used, but most of the sized described in this DIY and the front strut DIY are wrong. OEM struts from a 2007, the struts dated 3/1/2007 if I remember correctly. Sorry I didn't write down the sizes but I was powering through the install, it was hot in the garage.

To the guy that suggested the pass-thru socket set, THANK YOU. Such a time saver.
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      10-02-2014, 09:50 AM   #26
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I just did this job on my 2006 325i sport package last weekend. This job is very easy, particularly compared to the water pump and thermostat I did last month! Anyway, I used Bilstein B4 p/n 19-135052. These are a perfect fit and a nice stock replacement. The hardest part of the job is actually removing and installing the interior trunk carpet panels. Buy an $8 trim panel fastener removal tool from Amazon! It is not difficult to compress the shocks by hand. For reference, I'm 5'7" 160 and sit in front of a computer all day. I replaced the upper and lower mounts, but this probably was not necessary if you are on a budget. The upper mounts especially looked and felt like new. BMW parts are really well made. All my suspension components are solid and like new after 9 years and 92k and 7 Boston winters. Except the shocks.
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      01-22-2015, 04:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbiec View Post
I just did this job on my 2006 325i sport package last weekend. This job is very easy, particularly compared to the water pump and thermostat I did last month! Anyway, I used Bilstein B4 p/n 19-135052. These are a perfect fit and a nice stock replacement. The hardest part of the job is actually removing and installing the interior trunk carpet panels. Buy an $8 trim panel fastener removal tool from Amazon! It is not difficult to compress the shocks by hand. For reference, I'm 5'7" 160 and sit in front of a computer all day. I replaced the upper and lower mounts, but this probably was not necessary if you are on a budget. The upper mounts especially looked and felt like new. BMW parts are really well made. All my suspension components are solid and like new after 9 years and 92k and 7 Boston winters. Except the shocks.
Thanks for the heads up.. I'm planning on doing mine tonight with the same shocks.. Looking forward to a better ride!!
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      03-25-2015, 01:00 PM   #28
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Thanks for this DIY. I did this last weekend, with a bad back as well. Took me 2 hrs as I had to watch how much I was bending over.

The process is relatively straight forward. I think I had more of a hard time with the stupid lining in the trunk than the shocks themselves. LOL. I replaced with B4's. Not having a 16mm open end wrench I used a 5/8 which instead which worked fine.

The new B4's had a 15mm nut on the bottom end as opposed to 17mm, weird but it worked out fine.

Thanks to the OP for posting the DIY as it was invaluable. Next up, is the front struts!
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      07-02-2016, 02:37 PM   #29
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Top nut

Am I missing something about tightening up the upper nut ?

My new Bilstein B4 OE shocks have the same 6mm top that that my OEM shocks have. I am assuming that if I hold this 6mm top with a wrench, I can use an open end wrench to tighten the 16mm nut.

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      07-22-2016, 01:34 PM   #30
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Update to the DIY Rear Shock Installation

I recently replaced my two rear shocks on my 2006 325xi and answered my previous post. I just held the 6mm shock top and tighten the nut tight. I did not worry about the 27 ft lbs torque spec.

One thing is that I used a 6 inch pry bar (see photo) that I purchase at Home Depot to remove the seven (7) expanding black plastic expanding rivets. Take your time so as not to break the plastic expanding rivet. I used a screw driver along with the pry bar on a couple of the rivets. I believe the part number for the black plastic rivet is 07-14-6-971-349.

I was not able to remove the left and right side covers as described in the DIY as the rear luggage compartment trim piece also needs to be removed first. See photos.

To removed this trim piece there are four (4) gray expanding rivets (51-47-8-184-135) and two sheet metal screws under cover caps. See photos. The rivets were difficult to remove as the plastic rivets were brittle. I suggest taking small bites. On some to the rivets I had to use long nose pliers once I got it out a little distance.

Then, remove the floor panel, the battery cover panel and lift the left and right panels out.

I had help compressing the original shocks to remove them as well as installing the new shocks. Made the process much easier.

I replaced both shocks with Bilstein B4 OE 19-135021 shocks using new Rein AVZ0293P bump stops . The original left shock was leaking after 10 1/2 years so I replaced the lower shock mount with a Lemfoerder 35398 01 mount.

Hope this helps.

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      08-12-2016, 08:09 AM   #31
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to everyone who contributed to this thread.... THANK YOU!!!!
i already had trim tools from replacing my speakers, but i did not have a through socket set and an e-torq set. went to harbor freight and grabbed both.

took me a bit over an hour per side (including a good 30 minutes getting the stupid trim in the trunk again.
thank you everyone!!!
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