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      04-03-2014, 10:46 AM   #1
prepster
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leaky oil pan/rear main seal?

hello everyone, so i replaced my ofhg, vcg, rear turbo return line gasket (that the dealer diagnosed) and installed new check valve and pcv valve on the valve cover as well. But I still get a leak in this exact same spot.

I want to say its the oil pan because on one of the bolts in the picture you can see a drop of oil resting on it, with no residues or signs of surrounding oil. (I noticed it was a tad loose, so i torqued it a little bit more but then heard a snap, and was able to tighten down a little bit more, but i HOPE i didn't over tighten and cause an even worser leak!!!)

And then on the other side further down towards the transmission where the engine meets the transmission, there seems to be a couple drops accumulating at the edges, there is definitely a thin film of oil that traces down from the round curved area where the transmission and engine meet.

What do you guys think it could be? I drive an n54 with 106kmiles on it, I don't mine doing the labor for the oil pan, but i heard the rear mail seal is even more of a PIA! Also, would over tightening the bolt on the oil pan require me to rethread it even though it was still able to tighten somewhat more? (could i just get a new bolt and trim it down so it doesn't reach the cross threaded area if that was the case?) I couldn't find any torque specs on the oil pan gasket.

thanks for your advice
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      04-04-2014, 12:10 AM   #2
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So i went to a local indy repair shop today and the technician stated that it was an oil pan gasket leak, he didn't think it was a rear main seal since he removed the little plastic cover that lets you peak inside the transmission and didn't notice any wetness around the seal.

As for the overtightened bolt on the oil pan which i heard a snap when turning but still was able to tighten snug, he said as long as the head didn't snap off, that the new bolt should still work since the aluminum bolts shouldn't be tightened down to tight anyways. He also stated to use some gasket sealer on the pan and on the mating surface for extra protection.

What do you guys think of the diagnosis? I feel like I'm up for the task of doing this oil pan gasket replacement myself in couple months and maybe do a DIY write up.
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      04-04-2014, 05:52 AM   #3
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I'll just say I wish my engine was THAT clean. I think you have such a minor oil leak that is not worth worrying about. You may make the issue worse by trying to remove and replace the oil pan gasket (get more leaks in different places with an imperfect installation of the new gasket). You have to drop the front subframe in order to get enough room to properly replace the pan gasket; it's a lot of work for trying to solve such a minor leak. Someone did write a DIY without dropping the subframe, so it can be done that way, but he reported it was a major PIA and I don't think he's ever updated to let us know how when the new pan gasket has held up (to new leaks).

Most engines have minor oil leaks; it is just a fact of life.
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      04-04-2014, 08:03 AM   #4
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I did the oil pan change and I would pay to have it done if needed again.

Do not touch it until your car drinks insane amount of oil.
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      04-04-2014, 02:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
I did the oil pan change and I would pay to have it done if needed again.

Do not touch it until your car drinks insane amount of oil.
Hey Meeni, when you did your oil pan did you drop the subframe as well? What would you say was the toughest part of the job? Also did u have any reoccuring leaks? Thanks
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      04-04-2014, 05:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
I'll just say I wish my engine was THAT clean. I think you have such a minor oil leak that is not worth worrying about. You may make the issue worse by trying to remove and replace the oil pan gasket (get more leaks in different places with an imperfect installation of the new gasket). You have to drop the front subframe in order to get enough room to properly replace the pan gasket; it's a lot of work for trying to solve such a minor leak. Someone did write a DIY without dropping the subframe, so it can be done that way, but he reported it was a major PIA and I don't think he's ever updated to let us know how when the new pan gasket has held up (to new leaks).

Most engines have minor oil leaks; it is just a fact of life.
Ditto.. My engine was that clean id eat dinner off it..
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      04-05-2014, 08:48 AM   #7
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Hey Meeni, when you did your oil pan did you drop the subframe as well? What would you say was the toughest part of the job? Also did u have any reoccuring leaks? Thanks
I did not but regretted not doing.

The most difficult part of the job is clearance. There is just not enough space to work. That makes everything difficult, from removing bolts, cleaning old gasket material (that is often cooked on the block, and you don't want the pieces to fall into the oil pan) to retorquing to spec.

The leak has been greatly diminished, but it never completely stopped, because I did a sloppy job with the lack of clearance. It has improved the issue enough that I will not redo it for now, but that was not satisfactory for 8 hours of DIY invested.

See here the DIY a fellow forumer has been nice enough to provide, and my experience with it http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585855
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      04-05-2014, 10:31 AM   #8
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Just worth mentioning - I had the same exact oil spots, and it was my rear turbo inlet tube was slightly seperated where it connects into the rear turbo. Oil was gatherings that spot over time, causing it to drip down where the engine meets the trans. I thought it was rear seal or oil pan, but not the case.
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      04-05-2014, 10:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
I did not but regretted not doing.

The most difficult part of the job is clearance. There is just not enough space to work. That makes everything difficult, from removing bolts, cleaning old gasket material (that is often cooked on the block, and you don't want the pieces to fall into the oil pan) to retorquing to spec.

The leak has been greatly diminished, but it never completely stopped, because I did a sloppy job with the lack of clearance. It has improved the issue enough that I will not redo it for now, but that was not satisfactory for 8 hours of DIY invested.

See here the DIY a fellow forumer has been nice enough to provide, and my experience with it http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585855
oh ok, i plan on dropping the subframe to remove the oil pan completely. I read on here that the subframe is about 8 more bolts on each side after removing the engine mounts (about an extra hour or so), i plan on getting the harbor freight engine support that goes over the top and connects to the side rails (thats what scares me the most since I'm relying on something that costs 60 dollars to save my life) but hopefully subframe won't be that much of pain, besides, it will be good to practice dropping it since i plan to replace my turbos when they fail in future as well…
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      04-12-2014, 07:40 AM   #10
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...most engines don't have minor oil leaks...those select engines which do have owners who neglect to fix/have fixed said oil leaks..

That being said you likely have an oil pan gasket leak-if you aren't comfortable properly doing it which involves supporting the engine from the top and lowering the subframe I'd suggest having someone do it.
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      04-16-2014, 04:31 PM   #11
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My car just went in for final inspection before the CPO warranty and extended maint. go away.

They found an oil pan leak.... They are fixing it. Whew.......
I had also reported some other issues that they were able to pull the codes for, not sure what they are, but they are fixing those too....

They just did a full head refresh with cam ledges about 1500 miles ago. Their dime again.
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      04-16-2014, 05:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volkswackin View Post
...most engines don't have minor oil leaks...those select engines which do have owners who neglect to fix/have fixed said oil leaks..

That being said you likely have an oil pan gasket leak-if you aren't comfortable properly doing it which involves supporting the engine from the top and lowering the subframe I'd suggest having someone do it.
I find this statement highly offensive.
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      05-26-2014, 02:07 PM   #13
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Anyone have the part number and quantity for the hardware needed for a rear main seal change? Not very appearant to me on realOEM. Just the RMS, the hardware for flywheel, housing and so on was easy to figure out. N52 motor
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