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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > m3 REAR subfram bushing labor



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      07-29-2009, 01:41 PM   #1
Park828
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m3 REAR subfram bushing labor

ok Are these bushings really worth it? i mean $220 for the bushings and my shop quoted me $500 for labor alone!

any other local shops in the sf bay area?
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      07-29-2009, 01:42 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Park828 View Post
ok Are these bushings really worth it? i mean $220 for the bushings and my shop quoted me $500 for labor alone!

any other local shops in the sf bay area?
they are not easy to remove, the subframe has to be dropped and they are pressed into the subframe very tightly. its not that bad a quote
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      07-29-2009, 03:00 PM   #3
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I think that sounds like a great quote. Where's your shop? I might hit them up.

BTW, I've ridden i a car with them that had the same suspension as my car. BIG difference in how settled the car is and you don't get that bounce from the rear end.
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      07-29-2009, 03:09 PM   #4
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Is it a better idea to do rear sway bar and subframe bushing at the same time since they both required the subframe to be dropped?
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      07-29-2009, 03:26 PM   #5
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YES!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ontopofm View Post
Is it a better idea to do rear sway bar and subframe bushing at the same time since they both required the subframe to be dropped?
If you are going to put a swaybar in that is the time to do it. If you plan on or have upgraded suspension I wouldn't recommend swaybars other than maybe the M3 bars -- just a little stiffer.

Search or plenty of threads on this.
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      07-29-2009, 04:12 PM   #6
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Yea... thats a really good quote.. Its a huge pain and typically takes longer to do it . Sonic MS did mine the other week.
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      07-29-2009, 05:00 PM   #7
Park828
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shop is BR racing In campbell great guys and always got me good prices but damn..

i already have HRs in the back (too stiff?)

man this month is gonna cost me....

new set of ps2 in the back front m3 parts vorslag or whatever camber paltes
install rear subframe bushings m3 seats and on and on and on gotta stop gotta stop gotta stop
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      07-29-2009, 06:57 PM   #8
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the quote you got is pretty reasonable.

I got about the same labor quote here in socal.
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      07-29-2009, 07:35 PM   #9
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yah since theyre droppin the sub make sure u do ALL Suspension work that ur gonna do ALL at once. If ur not done with the suspension then wait on it.
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      07-29-2009, 09:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Park828 View Post
shop is BR racing In campbell great guys and always got me good prices but damn..

i already have HRs in the back (too stiff?)

man this month is gonna cost me....

new set of ps2 in the back front m3 parts vorslag or whatever camber paltes
install rear subframe bushings m3 seats and on and on and on gotta stop gotta stop gotta stop
Thanks for the lead.

Too stiff? That's the million dollar question. roozie2001 said unless you're done with your suspension don't drop the rear sub frame. I have to agree.

I feel the sways should be the last thing you install. Although a lot of folks think it's an inexpensive fix-all for handling issues on our car that just isn't the case.

This in reference to driving all out. If you're not doing that then you're fine. In fact you might be fine with the HRs. I don't know them.

This is my order of modifications if I had to do it all over again:
  1. Wheels and tires - spacers if necessary
  2. Coilovers
  3. Camber plates
  4. M3 bits in the front
  5. M3 bits in the back including sub frame bushings
  6. Maybe a front M3 bar
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      07-30-2009, 12:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Park828 View Post
shop is BR racing In campbell great guys and always got me good prices but damn..

i already have HRs in the back (too stiff?)

man this month is gonna cost me....

new set of ps2 in the back front m3 parts vorslag or whatever camber paltes
install rear subframe bushings m3 seats and on and on and on gotta stop gotta stop gotta stop
Agreed. Had the HR's and went to M3's and the car picked up some more roll but also some more grip! call me crazy...
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      07-31-2009, 05:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MteK View Post
Agreed. Had the HR's and went to M3's and the car picked up some more roll but also some more grip! call me crazy...

Mtek, is that right? you had H&R rear sway bar and then you replaced that with the M3 sway and got more grip?

That's interesting as they are both 20mm. If so that may be the result of a better engineering of the bar or more likely the contribution of the bushings and/or the Stabilizer link if you changed that as well.

Btw I also have H&R front and rear and I wonder if I should have gone for the M3 swapping route.
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      07-31-2009, 07:45 AM   #13
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me too, having the h&r front and rear anti roll bar as well as kw v2. Are all the m3 bits still necessary or wonder we shall just get the front m3 bits and stop there.
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      07-31-2009, 08:51 AM   #14
uberschnell
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BMW Stock M3: 26.5mm (39310 mm^4) /22.8mm (12904 mm^4) <hollow>
Biasing: 75% / 25%

H&R: 27mm (52714 mm^4)/ 20mm (15707 mm^4) (part # 33211-1)
Biasing: 70% / 30%

HR is significantly stiffer.
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      07-31-2009, 09:03 AM   #15
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M rear is shown as 20mm
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&hg=33&fg=45
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      07-31-2009, 09:17 AM   #16
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Those specs are posted by Mark (admin). In any case, I held the HR rear in one arm and the M3 rear in the other at the shop and the HR is significantly heavier.

The swap introduced increased sway which I countered with stiffer springs (Swift 600R/400F) which in turn improved mechanical grip. My comparison was running both set-ups at laguna seca within 3 months of each other. The difference was on the order of 4 seconds.

According to Harold @ HP 600 rear is about as far as you can go with the stock rear bushings. Personally, I'd like to go stiffer but I'm stuck on stock bushings.
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