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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - E92 CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) Removal



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  DIY - E92 CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) Removal
EvanL
09-13-2006
Hey, just removed the CDV from my 335i today. Very straightforward and much simpler than the CDV removal from my E46 M3. Steps are as follows:

1. Jack the front end up and put it on JACK STANDS. Do not get under a car that is supported by a jack only.

2. Remove the...
  #220  
By scanboy on 04-13-2009, 06:27 PM
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I've also been thinking about doing this, but I don't want to do the bleeding process. Sounds like you didn't do it either. So you only have to clamp one side (rubber side) of the CDV to prevent leaking? what about the other side? wouldn't fluid leak out from other side too when you take the CDV out?
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  #221  
By mikeokimster on 04-13-2009, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scanboy View Post
I've also been thinking about doing this, but I don't want to do the bleeding process. Sounds like you didn't do it either. So you only have to clamp one side (rubber side) of the CDV to prevent leaking? what about the other side? wouldn't fluid leak out from other side too when you take the CDV out?
The hard line doesn't really leak.
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  #222  
By turbotwin90 on 05-06-2009, 11:40 AM
where can i find a high quality CDV valve for my 335 ? & does this increase performance speed wise ?
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  #223  
By sum1else on 05-19-2009, 07:16 PM
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'08 328xi Coupe

Just did this today on jack stands... tried a ramp but didn't have enough clearance to move my arms around.

It was very easy. I clamped the tubing shut right behind the valve with a vice grip wrapped in a small towel, so as not to damage the tubing with the metal teeth. My 328xi didn't have enough slack in the tubing to connect it with the valve completely gone, so I had to act quickly and punch out the guts of the existing piece. This was accomplished as others have said with a small allen key and a hammer, and took all of two seconds. The hardest part for me was getting the clips back on, until I realized that you can rotate the valves whichever way works for you.

I lost about a half ounce of fluid on my first try because the vice grip wasn't tight enough on the tubing. The hard-line did not leak at all.

Also, I did not need to bleed the air out. My clutch and brakes were fully responsive immediately.

edit:
Just did my brother's 328i coupe, would like to highlight the small differences for everyone while they are fresh on my mind.

1. The panel is slightly different between the xi and i, but the ease of removal is the same.

2. CDV access is much better in the i. The xi was much tighter due to all of the extra equipment for all wheel drive.

3. The nozzle on the hard-line in the i did not rotate for me, but the nozzle rotated on the xi [the CDV rotates in both]. This made putting the clip back in a little more annoying, but the added space to the left of the valve (about 6 inches more) to work with made up for it.

4. Jacking up the i was a pain. The jack point is much further back than in my xi, and my jack couldn't reach it. I thought of a nifty idea though- I jacked up each side separately and let the springs stretch out. Now the car was high enough to get my jack under the i coupe.

Good luck!
Last edited by sum1else; 05-20-2009 at 10:29 AM.
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  #224  
By sum1else on 05-19-2009, 07:17 PM
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I forgot to mention that this is the most amazing improvement that I could have wished for in my car. It is going to make rush hour traffic and pedal-to-the-floor action much more tolerable.
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  #225  
By No_curebimmer on 05-25-2009, 01:15 AM
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Did I do this right?

Hey guys: thanks for all your comments and this awesome DIY guide, I finally got around to do this mod. I need your assistance as I think I did something wrong. Please bear with me as I need to explain my steps.

After I swapped out the CDV with a modded one, I decided to bleed the system. I used the Bav Auto bleeder kit (along with a bottle of 12oz DOT 3/4 high temp break fluid inside the kit) pressurized to 20 psi. Bled the system via the bleeder screw/valve and then tighten it back up.

I thought I did everything ok. Before I put everything back together, I of course checked the clutch and break. I pushed the clutch with my hand and it didn't come back up. I also checked under the car and some break fluid also came out - the fluid actually pushed out the rubber nipple off the bleeder screw. I repeated the clutch action a few times, and every time it wouldn't come up by itself and released more fluid thru the bleeder screw/valve. Obviously the bleeder screw was not tight enough, so tighten the screw until the clutch action was returned to normal and no more fluid escaped the system.

So here is my question(s): When do you actually introduce air in the clutch system, only by swapping out the CDV? Is the system really air tight when you add break fluid in the reservoir? The way I see it (and I'm not mechanically inclined) but you open the system and allow clutch fluid when you engage the clutch no? Because I didn't tighten the bleeder screw, I thought I introduced more air. I took the car for a really short ride (it's really late so not much of good test) and it seemed ok, perhaps less jerky, however, the clutch does feel somewhat softer - it could be a mental thing, I don't know yet.

Am I all right, what do you think, do I need to pressurize and bleed the system again?

Sorry for the long ramble, it past 2 AM. I appreciate your input/help you may have...many thanks!

Cheers, and Happy Memorial Day!
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  #226  
By Kelvin1000 on 05-26-2009, 05:33 AM
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I had a hell of a time doing this in my E92 because the valve is 11mm and hard as hell to reach. The reservoir might look full but it is partitioned and the clutch side gets empty right away. Make sure you top it off 100% and then give it another try.

Have someone pump the clutch a bunch of times then hold it down and loosen it 1/4 turn max and repeat about 3 times until there is no air in the system and just liquid comes out. Make sure they are holding the clutch down until you finish tightening up and you should be good.

Remember, the reservoir may not be full!!!

Good luck.
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  #227  
By No_curebimmer on 05-26-2009, 02:00 PM
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Thanks Kelvin1000 for the reply...

Well, since I introduced air back into the system, I'll bleed it again. I'll use the bleeder kit though (not the manual way) to pressurize it up to 20 psi and then unscrew the bleeder valve to get the bubbles out. Like all who have done this said, the hardest part is getting enough leverage to screw/unscrew the bleeder screw.

Is there a trick/technique to get that plastic loosen/tighten? It took me approx. 15 min with a 7/16 open end wrench just to loosen it in the first place. Why would BMW place this in such a conspicuous and hard to get place I'll never get...

Good point about the reservoir, mine is about 3/4 full, but I haven't driven the car since the swap so I'm not worried; but I'll run down to Auto Zone and get a 12oz bottle of DOT4 break fluid (both for the bleeder kit and to top off)

I'll post my final outcome...hopefully all will be alright! Thanks all!
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  #228  
By Kelvin1000 on 05-26-2009, 03:46 PM
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Even if it looks 100% full, the clutch reservoir is partitioned and may be empty or close to empty. Top it off all the way and you can keep putting the liquid and it just goes elsewhere. Fill her up and you should be good to go.

You will have to tighten pump and hold, then loosen and re-tighten.

You will have to do this at least 3 times or until the air runs out.

I had the same problem, just be patient, stop and rest, then come back to it and you will get it.

Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by No_curebimmer View Post
Thanks Kelvin1000 for the reply...

Well, since I introduced air back into the system, I'll bleed it again. I'll use the bleeder kit though (not the manual way) to pressurize it up to 20 psi and then unscrew the bleeder valve to get the bubbles out. Like all who have done this said, the hardest part is getting enough leverage to screw/unscrew the bleeder screw.

Is there a trick/technique to get that plastic loosen/tighten? It took me approx. 15 min with a 7/16 open end wrench just to loosen it in the first place. Why would BMW place this in such a conspicuous and hard to get place I'll never get...

Good point about the reservoir, mine is about 3/4 full, but I haven't driven the car since the swap so I'm not worried; but I'll run down to Auto Zone and get a 12oz bottle of DOT4 break fluid (both for the bleeder kit and to top off)

I'll post my final outcome...hopefully all will be alright! Thanks all!
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  #229  
By OM3G@ on 08-18-2009, 07:42 AM
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Sorry if I missed this but has anyone done this on an '09 e90 LCI? I have no reason to suspect it would be any different, just looking for some peace of mind before getting wrist deep in brake fluid.
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  #230  
By HyperM3 on 08-18-2009, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM3G@ View Post
Sorry if I missed this but has anyone done this on an '09 e90 LCI? I have no reason to suspect it would be any different, just looking for some peace of mind before getting wrist deep in brake fluid.
Its the same. Ive done like 3 so far.
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  #231  
By OM3G@ on 09-04-2009, 05:28 PM
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Joined the modified CDV club last weekend and the improvement, although noticeable, isn't quite the life altering zen experience some of these posts seem to imply. Most improved is the 1st to 2nd gear shift under normal driving conditions, it is now buttery smooth.
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  #232  
By labedra on 09-22-2009, 09:20 AM
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I just removed the CDV without bleeding and no problems what so ever. (Just REMOVED IT WITHOUT installing the moded one) I just made sure I clamped the hose pretty tight so the brake fluid doesn't come out and viola. The hardest part was getting under the car. I actually had to buy a drive up ramp (Murrays $35), once the jack got underneeth the car then I was able to jack the car up . First impression is wooooow, now it's actually my foot that controls the cluch. THANKS FOR THIS DIY, I love it. This should be the way BMW comes out of the factory!!!!! I don't know why you would ever want a CDV. Even if you drop the clucth at high rpm you'll smoke the tires, but if you drop the clutch with CDV install, you'll smoke the clutch. So what's the point ? Tires are cheaper to replace anyhow
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  #233  
By Eugene-TAIWAN on 09-29-2009, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labedra View Post
I just removed the CDV without bleeding and no problems what so ever. (Just REMOVED IT WITHOUT installing the moded one) I just made sure I clamped the hose pretty tight so the brake fluid doesn't come out and viola. The hardest part was getting under the car. I actually had to buy a drive up ramp (Murrays $35), once the jack got underneeth the car then I was able to jack the car up . First impression is wooooow, now it's actually my foot that controls the cluch. THANKS FOR THIS DIY, I love it. This should be the way BMW comes out of the factory!!!!! I don't know why you would ever want a CDV. Even if you drop the clucth at high rpm you'll smoke the tires, but if you drop the clutch with CDV install, you'll smoke the clutch. So what's the point ? Tires are cheaper to replace anyhow
Once you took out the CDV what did you replace it with??? I can't seem to find the answer for that
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  #234  
By mu979 on 10-06-2009, 08:43 PM
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I have found this mod to be well-worth the "hype", although I have to admit I was a bit skeptical. Definitely more linear engagement of the clutch, and the pedal seems silkier. I noticed the difference just backing the car off of the jackstands. The 1-2 shift is still the hardest to get perfect, but overall the clutch behaves more predictably. A few notes from my install on a e92 328xi:

- I replaced the CDV with a modified one. The old CDV valve was not as easy to separate on my car as I was expecting. It may have just been due to the tight quarters on my xi. Once it did come out, fluid began to spill (I didn't clamp the line for fear of damage), so be prepared to work quickly to get the new (modified) part in. It definitely helps to have an assistant here.

- As mentioned before, keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder, as the clutch portion is very small and easy to miss until you are out of fluid in that partition. If you drain the clutch portion, you'll need to completely fill the cylinder and start the bleed process over again.

- I used a vacuum bleeder, which made things a bit easier, although still did not have much feeling in the clutch pedal once bleeding was complete and fluid was bubble-free. Feeling returned to the pedal gradually after pumping the clutch a few dozen times with the system closed.

Well worth the time! Thanks for all the tips on here!
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  #235  
By ucdbiendog on 10-10-2009, 02:13 PM
I just replaced my CDV with a Burger Motor Sports modified CDV. Just tooling around on residential streets I can feel a noticeable difference in the shifting.
As others have said, I did not need to bleed the clutch. I used some vice grips to clamp down on the main line, then popped off the old CDV (it helps to rotate the CDV in place to get better access to the clip, I have an E90 335xi which doesn't have a lot of space to work with). A few drips came out of the metal hose, but that was it. Put the modded CDV in then took off the vice grips. I pumped the clutch a few times and it didn't come all the way up. Once I pulled it up it was back to normal. Piece of cake!
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  #236  
By vadim on 10-15-2009, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugene-TAIWAN View Post
Once you took out the CDV what did you replace it with??? I can't seem to find the answer for that
You don't have to put anyting there - just pull the hose closer to the port the valve used to be connected to, and connect it there instead of the valve.
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  #237  
By vadim on 10-15-2009, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucdbiendog View Post
...
As others have said, I did not need to bleed the clutch. ... Put the modded CDV in then took off the vice grips. ...
Actually, you DO need to bleed it - you've just installed a new valve full of air - unless you removed the clamp before connecting the other end of rhe valve and let it get filled with the brake fluid. Even if you "feed" the pedal as normal now, it is NOT.
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  #238  
By mmoussa on 11-29-2009, 10:05 PM
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decided to finally give this mod a shot. So I got under my car, took off the panel and was unable to find the CDV. From the attached picture you can see what I found which looks like to be where the CDV is from other pics. But no CDV. It looks similar to the pics from this tutorial here http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.htm, without the CDV.

I have a 2006 325xi, is there no CDV on this car? Or maybe I am looking in the wrong spot.

Other differences I noticed in my pic is that there is a lot more things all around it and it is way more cramped. From what I read in this post, I think this is because I have an all wheel drive model. Also you will notice the hard line (I think that is what it is called) is very short and goes straight to its destination. Other pics showed the curly long hard line, but other people had mentioned they had short hard lines as well.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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  #239  
By HyperM3 on 11-30-2009, 12:41 AM
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Im not sure what month your car was built so I guessed. But this is what I found on realoem.com. You can see that number 13 is the CDV or Lock Valve. Try following your lines again and see if you can find it.
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  #240  
By mmoussa on 11-30-2009, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoussa View Post
decided to finally give this mod a shot. So I got under my car, took off the panel and was unable to find the CDV. From the attached picture you can see what I found which looks like to be where the CDV is from other pics. But no CDV. It looks similar to the pics from this tutorial here http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.htm, without the CDV.

I have a 2006 325xi, is there no CDV on this car? Or maybe I am looking in the wrong spot.

Other differences I noticed in my pic is that there is a lot more things all around it and it is way more cramped. From what I read in this post, I think this is because I have an all wheel drive model. Also you will notice the hard line (I think that is what it is called) is very short and goes straight to its destination. Other pics showed the curly long hard line, but other people had mentioned they had short hard lines as well.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Maybe what I was looking at was the brake line. When I saw it, it looked familiar to the pictures I had seen, so I assumed it was it. So where is it located under the center panel? Under the clutch pedal? under the stick? Assuming the attached picture is the undercarriage of an e90, could someones circle where the CDV would be? Thanks
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  #241  
By superduty on 12-04-2009, 07:46 PM
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Just want to throw my 2 cents in. Just completed removing the CDV and I have to say it's a major improvement (like that's news!). The 1-2 clutch engagement is way improved. The best part is with the launch. The car gets off the line hard(er) w/o lurching or too much clutch slip. Way easier to modulate. Time for a beer!
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