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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - E92 CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) Removal



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      12-09-2009, 12:48 AM   #243
mmoussa
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Anyone in the New England area want to meet up and help me out with this. I am willing to pay $$ and provide beverages
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      12-17-2009, 08:42 AM   #244
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I just completed this as well. The feel in clutch engagement is exactly what I was looking for. As mentioned earlier in this thread all you need to do is put something narrow (such as a hex key) into the small side of the cdv and give it a tap. The constriction pops right out. The only thing I would add is that if you're going to do the clamp method (easiest way in my opinion) make sure you clamp it down quite tight. I had a second body use a pair of pliers to hold the line and he either wasn't holding tight enough or they weren't quite centered on the line. I think a C clamp would be the way to go.
In summary this mod is free or about $30 depending on your preference and worth every cent. It will provide the linear clutch engagement you are looking for.
*huge thanks to EvanL for taking the time to create this DIY*
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      02-15-2010, 04:57 PM   #245
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Anyone in the OC/Irvine area want to help me out with this?
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      03-18-2010, 11:11 PM   #246
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i'm doing this tomorrow

i've driven sticks my whole life and can't stand the 1st to 2nd action on my 328xi. I've to rev up high or keep at the gas in order to get a smooth clutch action. my 08G35 with notorious bad clutch and transmission synchro didn't even have this problem which I'm guessing it doesn't have a CDV.
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      03-18-2010, 11:12 PM   #247
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very nice
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      03-21-2010, 12:05 AM   #248
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just did this today

folks don't make the same mistake I did by not clamping vice-grip tight enough and got hydrolic fluid on the hands and on the painted black pipe. This caused the paint directly below the CDV to get eating away during final clean up of the fluid on the pipe. Not sure if dealer will void my warranty seeing that if I ever have any problems. I kept the CDV inserts just in case or I can always buy another one if I ever need to put it back. I got good record with sticks going for me so I'm not really worried about it having driven a Sentra, Altima, Maxima over 100K miles and never had any clutch or transmission problems. Drove the G35 to 36K miles with no problems although that clutch and gear box isn't that great either. So I'm trying to unlearn the bad shifting habits I developed with the CDV in place but I noticed the car launches stronger and I don't have to keep the gas pressed while shifting 1st to 2nd and it's smoother than before.
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      03-25-2010, 09:41 AM   #249
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Just installed my modified CDV in to my e90. It took me a longer time to jack the car up and take off the underbody panel then to actually change the part. lol. i crimped the line with a set off vice grips but bled it twice to ensure no air in the lines. huge difference from 1-2and 2-3.
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      03-25-2010, 10:41 AM   #250
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So I take it you need 2 people to do this, if your going to bleed your clutch ... and ... instructions on bleeding clutch? Do you open and they pump or is there a method to it?

thanks
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      03-27-2010, 03:39 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iaz View Post
So I take it you need 2 people to do this, if your going to bleed your clutch ... and ... instructions on bleeding clutch? Do you open and they pump or is there a method to it?

thanks
I just did it by myself - took me just over an hour in total. Once you have the cover off the bits are amazingly clean.. wow! I used a simple clamp you use to glue wood etc to close off the hose (the base of these things is rounded, so doesn't 'cut' into the hose, and under the upper screw down bit I put a rubber pad I had. With these clamps you feel how much force you put onto the hose. One spring clip (metal colored) comes (jumps) out completely, the other (copper colored) just stays in the unlocked position. I pushed out the inner bits with an allen key, didn't even need the hammer. Thanks again to the one who found this out!!!
For bleeding the air the top half of my aluminium jack lever fits exactly between the fully depressed pedal and the left rail of the drivers seat.. so installed that, went under the car, opened the plastic bleeder so the clutch spring moves the oil/air out (ok is a bit akward to get to but if you use an open end 11mm spanner and flip it over between each movement it takes about 6 movements to crack it open). Closed it, removed the lever, pulled the clutch up (only the first time), and repeated this 3 times, on third no more air came out.
I agree with the other post you need to bleed. Air is not going to get out by itself, and you will end up with longer dead travel before the pedal feels firm. I think I will bleed it once more next week. Pedal feels great, but have the feeling i need to depress it slightly further. I lost very little fluid in the whole process, can't even see the level dropped in the reservoir
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      05-07-2010, 08:00 PM   #252
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Works beautiful! So smooth now. Thanks!!
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      06-10-2010, 09:52 AM   #253
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Stupid ? but do you still bleed the clutch if you put a modified cdv?
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      06-10-2010, 09:54 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtac View Post
Stupid ? but do you still bleed the clutch if you put a modified cdv?
No. Im pretty sure thats been mentioned many times. Just clamp the line so it doesnt leak and youll be fine. Ive done over 50 CDV replacements this way and not one issue.
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      06-14-2010, 11:43 AM   #255
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I did this yesterday. My car FINALLY drives as I always expected it to be! The clutch engagement has been transformed completely.

It may be bit early to be sure, but I also think that the clutch chatter at idle is gone too.
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      06-30-2010, 10:10 PM   #256
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TY so much for the info. I had mine changed and now I have the car I was supposed to have.
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      07-08-2010, 11:31 AM   #257
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excellent mod great write up
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      08-07-2010, 03:40 PM   #258
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Thumbs up CDV replaced on 2006 330xi

I now experience smooth shifting, no more drive train lash at low speeds or when running air conditioner. Used modified replacement part instead of complete elimination. Had mechanic do it as I had to have other work done. Thanks to all who posted information on this modification.
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      09-15-2010, 01:25 AM   #259
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how do you bleed the clutch in a e92 335i? When i depress my clutch, it will not come back up. HELP!>!!>

I did the CDV change and didn't read the part to clamp the hose in the DIY. I lost a bit of fluid and now even after bleeding about 5 times of opening bleeding, pushing down clutch, close bleeder, pulling back on clutch, my clutch pedal is still limp and it will stay to the floor when I push it down. Please help. PM me.

Last edited by arhim22; 09-15-2010 at 02:53 AM.
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      12-17-2010, 11:44 PM   #260
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I've been meaning to do this mod for a while, and finally did tonight.
Now keep in mind that I've bled brakes plenty of times. This was my first time doing a clutch.

The first 3 bleeds had some air. In retrospect, the pedal felt mushy for the first half of the throw. I topped up the reservoir, bled a couple more times and the clutch felt better. However, the top 1" still felt mushy. The rest of the throw feels nice. Being that the engagement is at the top of the clutch, is this upper 1" of mushyness normal?

Also, the clutch feels lighter. I assume that by removing the restriction, this makes for a lighter clutch.
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      12-18-2010, 11:26 AM   #261
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I dont know why people still think they need to bleed the clutch to do this. That makes a 10 minute job and turns it into an hour long job.

CLAMP THE LINE PEOPLE!!! Ive done over 50 of these and never once have I needed to bleed the clutch.
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      12-18-2010, 06:20 PM   #262
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Ok I went to the tech and inquired about the top 1" issue I had. He said the piston is shorter than the throw of the clutch arm, and that 1" mushyness is a spring. It's apparently for people who like to ride the clutch. My clutch feels fine, but I'm gonna bleed again because I have some leftover oil anyway. Doesn't Hurt.

HyperM3: Yes you have to bleed. People here who are not bleeding are living with a bubble in their hydraulic line. If you lost one drip after clamping the line, thats a bubble. Albiet, one drip isnt a HUGE deal, but remember you removed the CDV valve and the guts in it. Thats a little more than an air bubble. In the 4mm hydraulic line, you probably have 2cm worth of air in there. If you dont feel it and insist its firm, then all the power to you. Maybe you dont feel it, Maybe it wont have any long term effects.

Mechanics 101 - tamper with hydraulic lines, bleed to ensure theres no air.
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      12-23-2010, 03:33 PM   #263
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useful
http://www.brakebleeder.com/index.ph...products_id=16
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      01-16-2011, 09:20 PM   #264
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Hey guys

Just did the DCV swap with the modified valve.

Since I am a big fella, had a little trouble getting under the car on ramps. My jack damaged the mounting point while I was trying to Jack up the car, so next time I will get a plank of wood and use that as the jack point to distribute the weight.

Had a tricky time getting the Clip back on the clutch line, and no luck at all undoing the bleed valve. I do not have a pressure bleeder and I need to drive the car ASAP so I am having my local shop bleed it out for me tomorrow morning (Terrified to bring it to BMW - I don't want to tip them off that i have a modified CDV in the car)

I too feel the location of the bleed valve is poorly thought out.

Has anyone had any luck using a swivel head ratcheting 11mm wrench? What do most people use to undo the bleed valve?
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