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      02-21-2016, 04:36 PM   #1
9iron
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Cheapest respectable option? ('08 328i sport E90)

I have an '08 328i E90 w/ ~100k miles on the stock (sport) suspension. I feel it may be time to replace the shocks, as the car feels sloppy going over bumps. This is my DD and i never track the car, but i do enjoy driving it somewhat aggressively.

Ive recently replaced tires, brakes, rotors, plugs, coils, oil pan gasket, vlave cover gasket, OFHG, etc.... I contemplated selling the car, but since i replaced quite a few things already, have committed to keeping it a while longer. I know the waterpump/t-stat and suspension will need fixing, which brings me here.

I have read many of the threads on this forum, and i will be the first to admit i know very little about the technicalities of suspension components as they relate to performance/driving dynamics. It seems the KW Street Comfort is a good option and costs ~$1850.

What is the cheapest option that will still be good? Any suggestions? Also, what should be changed while im doing the springs/shocks?

My BIL is a mechanic, so the labor should be cheap/free. Thanks in advance for the help.
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      02-21-2016, 05:38 PM   #2
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Koni FSD's....sudden....bliss....use existing springs, they're far from needing replacement.
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      02-21-2016, 05:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
Koni FSD's....sudden....bliss....use existing springs, they're far from needing replacement.
What are your thoughts on the Bilstein B12 Pro-kit vs the Koni FSDs?
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      02-21-2016, 08:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
Koni FSD's....sudden....bliss....use existing springs, they're far from needing replacement.
Really?

That would be great if the springs are still good. I thought it may be better to replace everything at once.

Also, you think i should (need to?) replace the control arms or subframe bushings?

Thanks
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      02-21-2016, 08:19 PM   #5
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Since the effort to replace shocks & springs is the same to put on coilovers. Look at both options.

TCKline coilovers get praise even for street comfort. They are usually single adjustable.

For shocks, definatly look at Bilstien HD/B6 or the FSD. Just be aware that I've seen Koni's rust in the salted winters my city gets..
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      02-21-2016, 08:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Since the effort to replace shocks & springs is the same to put on coilovers. Look at both options.

TCKline coilovers get praise even for street comfort. They are usually single adjustable.

For shocks, definatly look at Bilstien HD/B6 or the FSD. Just be aware that I've seen Koni's rust in the salted winters my city gets..
Two things:

1. Whats the benefit of coilovers?
2. Good to know about rusting issues w/ Koni. I live in Michigan, and we see plenty of salt on the roads four months of the year.

Thanks for the advice.
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      02-21-2016, 08:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9iron View Post
Two things:

1. Whats the benefit of coilovers?
2. Good to know about rusting issues w/ Koni. I live in Michigan, and we see plenty of salt on the roads four months of the year.

Thanks for the advice.

Dude! You have coilovers...

Koni offers a lifetime warranty. Gotta wonder....does that include corrosion? Would seem reasonable.

.

Last edited by CALWATERBOY; 02-21-2016 at 08:53 PM.
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      02-22-2016, 02:24 AM   #8
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Cheapest option...

Bilstein b4s with new mounts and spring rubber insulating pads. Springs aren't 'bad' if they aren't literally broken.
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      02-23-2016, 09:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Cheapest option...

Bilstein b4s with new mounts and spring rubber insulating pads. Springs aren't 'bad' if they aren't literally broken.
Thanks! Looks like that is an affordable option.

I might spend a little more and try the HD instead of the B4. So if i do the bare minimum, ill get the Bilstein HD and new mounts. I will use my stock sport springs. Does that sound about right?

If i decide to upgrade a little more, would my other choices here be good? Am i missing anything, or did i pick something that doesnt make sense?

Not sure if i need the M3 control arms, new tie rods, or subframe bushings, but it seems like thats what most people mod when they want handling improvements. I put the water pump in there because i know im just about due, so may as well have it ready.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/Sho...oductID=206099
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      02-24-2016, 09:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9iron View Post
Two things:

1. Whats the benefit of coilovers?
2. Good to know about rusting issues w/ Koni. I live in Michigan, and we see plenty of salt on the roads four months of the year.

Thanks for the advice.
It's not that big of an issue on the Koni's. I had the yellows with lowering springs on my other car and never ran into a problem. If you're that worried, I recommend hot temp clear coat the struts.

The benefit of the coilovers IMO, I love adjusting the height and the KW V1's are running progressive springs. I noticed a much firmer ride and much more stable compared to my friends Koni yellows and H&R's.

I'm in Michigan as well, if you'd like a ride PM me. I'm in the West Bloomfield area.
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      02-24-2016, 11:40 AM   #11
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Depends on what your goal is. Do you want to lower the car? Do you want a firmer ride? Do you want adjustability? etc etc

If you want a drop then the most reliable route is lowering springs with koni yellows. Coilover's benefit when you want ride height adjustability and damper adjustability.

I've heard great things about the KW Street Comfort.
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      02-24-2016, 12:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camman View Post
Depends on what your goal is. Do you want to lower the car? Do you want a firmer ride? Do you want adjustability? etc etc

If you want a drop then the most reliable route is lowering springs with koni yellows. Coilover's benefit when you want ride height adjustability and damper adjustability.

I've heard great things about the KW Street Comfort.
I do not care to lower the car, nor do i care about adjustability. I do prefer a firmer ride, but it is still a daily driver. I only want something similar to stock sport feel, or maybe a little firmer/tighter.
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      02-24-2016, 04:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9iron View Post
I do not care to lower the car, nor do i care about adjustability. I do prefer a firmer ride, but it is still a daily driver. I only want something similar to stock sport feel, or maybe a little firmer/tighter.
Then just go with FSD's and stock or Dinan springs. No other reason searching for other options at this point.
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      02-25-2016, 05:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9iron View Post
Thanks! Looks like that is an affordable option.

I might spend a little more and try the HD instead of the B4. So if i do the bare minimum, ill get the Bilstein HD and new mounts. I will use my stock sport springs. Does that sound about right?

If i decide to upgrade a little more, would my other choices here be good? Am i missing anything, or did i pick something that doesnt make sense?

Not sure if i need the M3 control arms, new tie rods, or subframe bushings, but it seems like thats what most people mod when they want handling improvements. I put the water pump in there because i know im just about due, so may as well have it ready.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/Sho...oductID=206099
The HD shocks are great. They could be cross-shopped with Koni yellows, as well. Personal preference then comes into play as to which you want. Going above that at the 'shock' level sort of takes you in the coil-over direction. More choices and generally reduced ride quality all around as a trade off for 'better' handling.

At 100k it most advisable to replace shocks and any load bearing rubber element in the suspension - within reason. Of course, the sky is the limit, but any bushing that exhibits excess play is not helping you. There may be a couple on your car at this point but I'm guessing the big ones, like the subframe are still in good shape. Check them before you buy them. Most of them aren't cheap and rather a PIA if they need to be pressed in.

Front m3 control arms would likely be a pretty big improvement, especially given your mileage, but if your stockers aren't clunking than they're still doing their job. I wouldn't bother with tie rods unless they're visibly worn out. It's not a high wear item with these cars.

The link to your cart was empty, btw :-(

Take a look on realoem to get an idea what rubber bits in the shock/spring are would be good to replace. Spring pads are always nice to replace when doing shocks. Eliminates noises gives a tight, correct response. An as-new feel that's nice and not spendy.

Last edited by tlow98; 02-25-2016 at 05:22 AM.
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      02-25-2016, 10:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
The HD shocks are great. They could be cross-shopped with Koni yellows, as well. Personal preference then comes into play as to which you want. Going above that at the 'shock' level sort of takes you in the coil-over direction. More choices and generally reduced ride quality all around as a trade off for 'better' handling.

At 100k it most advisable to replace shocks and any load bearing rubber element in the suspension - within reason. Of course, the sky is the limit, but any bushing that exhibits excess play is not helping you. There may be a couple on your car at this point but I'm guessing the big ones, like the subframe are still in good shape. Check them before you buy them. Most of them aren't cheap and rather a PIA if they need to be pressed in.

Front m3 control arms would likely be a pretty big improvement, especially given your mileage, but if your stockers aren't clunking than they're still doing their job. I wouldn't bother with tie rods unless they're visibly worn out. It's not a high wear item with these cars.

The link to your cart was empty, btw :-(

Take a look on realoem to get an idea what rubber bits in the shock/spring are would be good to replace. Spring pads are always nice to replace when doing shocks. Eliminates noises gives a tight, correct response. An as-new feel that's nice and not spendy.
Great post! Thanks. Ill look into realoem.
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      02-25-2016, 05:12 PM   #16
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How much are you looking to spend? There are several components that could use refreshing, but it's a slippery slope.

Front:
Bilstein and kW are solid setups, as is just replacing the struts with konis as cal said. While you're in there the control arms could use replacing, may as well upgrade to trw m3 bits (same as m3 without the badge). Check sway links and bushings, can upgrade to power flex bushings. Tie rods may or may not need to be replaced. Motor mounts as well.

Rear:
Same strut, control arm, and sway advise as front. Also check the dif and subframe bushings. Mine had visible cracks at 90k, depends on how you drive, may still be good since you aren't hammering them with torque.

Lastly, put an eye on your giubo and trans bushings.
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      02-25-2016, 08:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamboat View Post
How much are you looking to spend? There are several components that could use refreshing, but it's a slippery slope.

Front:
Bilstein and kW are solid setups, as is just replacing the struts with konis as cal said. While you're in there the control arms could use replacing, may as well upgrade to trw m3 bits (same as m3 without the badge). Check sway links and bushings, can upgrade to power flex bushings. Tie rods may or may not need to be replaced. Motor mounts as well.

Rear:
Same strut, control arm, and sway advise as front. Also check the dif and subframe bushings. Mine had visible cracks at 90k, depends on how you drive, may still be good since you aren't hammering them with torque.

Lastly, put an eye on your giubo and trans bushings.
Thanks. Slippery slope is right. Start fixing one thing after another and it adds up quick. I need to find the happy medium between reasonable improvement and going overboard.
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      03-05-2016, 10:25 AM   #18
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UPDATE: Ive done a bunch of reading on here, and i think ive decided what i want to do. Please review this and let me know if im missing something, or if there is something not needed.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...335i-set-of-4/

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...ce-suspension/

Coil spring pad (upper and lower) for all four corners

Front upper strut tower bearing (2)


This will cost around $925 for all these things. I want to add M3 control arms, subframe bushings, etc... but for the price, i think i may be ok replacing just the parts i listed for now. The car is a DD and will never see the track.

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
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      03-05-2016, 01:19 PM   #19
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I would suggest a minor change - don't get that package. The front strut mounts should likely be replaced, but in the rear the lower shock mount is very likely fine, and the top shock mount can be replaced with something better. The OEM one is soft foam, and it's worth replacing with a firmer one. You'll find lots in here with the Monroe top shock mount, only $10 a side (which is what I used) or if you feel like spending a little (lot) more, then the Powerflex or Dinan ones would be beneficial. The firmer top shock mount does make a difference. I think you'll really like the HDs if you're not lowering.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1145344
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      03-05-2016, 04:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinblair View Post
I would suggest a minor change - don't get that package. The front strut mounts should likely be replaced, but in the rear the lower shock mount is very likely fine, and the top shock mount can be replaced with something better. The OEM one is soft foam, and it's worth replacing with a firmer one. You'll find lots in here with the Monroe top shock mount, only $10 a side (which is what I used) or if you feel like spending a little (lot) more, then the Powerflex or Dinan ones would be beneficial. The firmer top shock mount does make a difference. I think you'll really like the HDs if you're not lowering.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1145344
Thanks. I read through that post but was confused if those monroe mounts were for the front or rear. I will pick up a pair of those and reuse the current lower mounts on the rear.


EDIT: One more question: The "front upper tower bearing" (according to bavauto) is the same as the front mount, correct?

Part number 31211 01?
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      03-05-2016, 05:49 PM   #21
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I highly recommend Bilstein HDs with new mounting hardware and non runflat tires.
I also have a sport package e90, and the HDs pair very well with the stock sport springs.
I'm in Brooklyn NY and the car is composed and responsive on the horrific streets we have here, all while being sporty and involving to drive.

Stiffer but still appropriate for a daily driver? Bilsteins. And they're much thicker and beefier than stock shocks....extremely tough.

By the way: the shocks do take 1500 miles to break-in. Initially very stiff but the harsh side smoothes right out after break-in.
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      03-05-2016, 05:54 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitfire007 View Post
I highly recommend Bilstein HDs with new mounting hardware and non runflat tires.
I also have a sport package e90, and the HDs pair very well with the stock sport springs.
I'm in Brooklyn NY and the car is composed and responsive on the horrific streets we have here, all while being sporty and involving to drive.

Stiffer but still appropriate for a daily driver? Bilsteins. And they're much thicker and beefier than stock shocks....extremely tough.
Good to hear. Thats what i plan on doing. I am gonna use my stock sport springs with the HD's.

I dropped the runflat tires a long time ago. I have Michelin PSS's on my summer rims and Nokian R2's for my winter setup.
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