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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Decided to fit a M3 diff



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      02-11-2013, 12:51 PM   #265
Nigelo
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You could just get the wings on the M3 centre bearing cut and new ones attached 10mm lower?
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      02-11-2013, 12:54 PM   #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
My 677mm are from the middle of the hole in the bearing (where it bolts to the car) to the flange surface where it meets the guybo at the gearbox
I measured the same way, my best guess was 675 and my shop measured 673. Don't tell them but I actually ordered 674mm to split the difference and was worried that was contributing to the wobble. I'll be really glad if it doesn't have to go back to the driveshaft shop. So yeah, we're 3mm off and it's not rocket science but seems like a pretty decent independent measurement result.
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      02-11-2013, 01:04 PM   #267
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Originally Posted by Nigelo View Post
You could just get the wings on the M3 centre bearing cut and new ones attached 10mm lower?
you could rotate the bearing housing so that the TOP marking goes down and add washers under the tabs so that the shaft is in line with the gearbox. don't know exactly how many mm washers

I would not solder the tabs, if thy break you are in danger of an explosion of the shaft....
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      02-11-2013, 01:07 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyguy View Post
I measured the same way, my best guess was 675 and my shop measured 673. Don't tell them but I actually ordered 674mm to split the difference and was worried that was contributing to the wobble. I'll be really glad if it doesn't have to go back to the driveshaft shop. So yeah, we're 3mm off and it's not rocket science but seems like a pretty decent independent measurement result.
I measured on the car, from the center of the bolt to the gearbox flange guybo, remember the 335i shaft is flexible in length between the gearbox and the bearing
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      02-11-2013, 01:12 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
you could rotate the bearing housing so that the TOP marking goes down and add washers under the tabs so that the shaft is in line with the gearbox. don't know exactly how many mm washers

I would not solder the tabs, if thy break you are in danger of an explosion of the shaft....
I like your idea much better than mine!


Just so I know Marconi, was your measurement like the red or blue line (ie straight, or parallel) in my piccy? Thanks!
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      02-12-2013, 05:19 AM   #270
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it is like the red one.... no way to do it like the blue

but on the car when the shaft is removed, from the center of the hole of the bearing to the plastic of the guybo, remember the metal parts of the guybo go inside the flang

anyway -+3mm won't change anything,
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      02-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #271
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Hi guys,

I've tackled this in my own way and here is how I did it

335i 6AT with M3 DCT Diff and DCT Prop

Once you have the subframe mounted to the 335i the prop from M3 Diff to Center bearing matches up fine.

All that needs fabricating is the shortening of the M3 prop from Center bearing to gearbox.

I used the 335i tri bolt flange and rubber plate, had this cut off the 335i prop and welded this to the M3 Prop, this also shortened it in the process.

I took my measurements for the new prop from my original 335i prop, from center bearing to flange as this distance never changes on the car.

So in conclusion.

1, The center bearing location remains in the same position because we share the same chassis
2, The M3 diff sits more forwards on the rear subframe than the 335i diff
3, The Key is to always use the prop from the original Diff so this measurements is consistent
4, Use your flange from the 335i prop to mate to the M3 prop

Attached pictures for reference


http://www.flickr.com/photos/93145858@N04/8468305924/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93145858@N04/8467211511/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93145858@N04/8467211617/
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      02-12-2013, 02:33 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N111CUK View Post
Hi guys,

I've tackled this in my own way and here is how I did it

335i 6AT with M3 DCT Diff and DCT Prop

Once you have the subframe mounted to the 335i the prop from M3 Diff to Center bearing matches up fine.

All that needs fabricating is the shortening of the M3 prop from Center bearing to gearbox.

I used the 335i tri bolt flange and rubber plate, had this cut off the 335i prop and welded this to the M3 Prop, this also shortened it in the process.

I took my measurements for the new prop from my original 335i prop, from center bearing to flange as this distance never changes on the car.

So in conclusion.

1, The center bearing location remains in the same position because we share the same chassis
2, The M3 diff sits more forwards on the rear subframe than the 335i diff
3, The Key is to always use the prop from the original Diff so this measurements is consistent
4, Use your flange from the 335i prop to mate to the M3 prop

Attached pictures for reference


http://www.flickr.com/photos/93145858@N04/8468305924/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93145858@N04/8467211511/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93145858@N04/8467211617/
Perfect explanation and example.... Thank you
One question... You used M3 central bearing was it ok? because somebody said it sits lower +-10mm and does not align with gearbox?

Did you tested everything?
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      02-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #273
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Yes used m3 Center and can easily be adjusted to align with gearbox
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      02-13-2013, 05:18 AM   #274
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Remember 2 important things:

as you can see on the pictures, the 335i shaft has a sliding part (to compensate engine and diff movements) that is between the bearing and the gearbox, this means that if the shaft is taken out of the car then the length can vary.
So you have to measure when the 335i shaft is still on the car, or on the car between the bearing mounting hole and the rubber guybo

The M3 shaft has no sliding articulation, the gearbox movements are absorbed by the homocynetic at the diff side

The M3 center bearing puts the shaft 10mm lower than due, very difficult to notice but it is, you will get vibrations at low speed VOT... because the guybo takes a big deflection.

2 solutions: use the 335i bearing, it fits 100% the M3 shaft, or rotate the M3 bearing with the TOP marking facing DOWN and add washers under the fixing bolts to put the axle back in line with the gearbox. no alignment needed with the diff, there is the homocynetic making the job
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      02-13-2013, 06:50 AM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
Remember 2 important things:

as you can see on the pictures, the 335i shaft has a sliding part (to compensate engine and diff movements) that is between the bearing and the gearbox, this means that if the shaft is taken out of the car then the length can vary.
So you have to measure when the 335i shaft is still on the car, or on the car between the bearing mounting hole and the rubber guybo

The M3 shaft has no sliding articulation, the gearbox movements are absorbed by the homocynetic at the diff side

The M3 center bearing puts the shaft 10mm lower than due, very difficult to notice but it is, you will get vibrations at low speed VOT... because the guybo takes a big deflection.

2 solutions: use the 335i bearing, it fits 100% the M3 shaft, or rotate the M3 bearing with the TOP marking facing DOWN and add washers under the fixing bolts to put the axle back in line with the gearbox. no alignment needed with the diff, there is the homocynetic making the job
Thanks This is essential info

I will write up in detail all this info in a new thread and maybe sticky it.
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      02-13-2013, 10:58 AM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
Remember 2 important things:

as you can see on the pictures, the 335i shaft has a sliding part (to compensate engine and diff movements) that is between the bearing and the gearbox, this means that if the shaft is taken out of the car then the length can vary.
So you have to measure when the 335i shaft is still on the car, or on the car between the bearing mounting hole and the rubber guybo

The M3 shaft has no sliding articulation, the gearbox movements are absorbed by the homocynetic at the diff side

The M3 center bearing puts the shaft 10mm lower than due, very difficult to notice but it is, you will get vibrations at low speed VOT... because the guybo takes a big deflection.

2 solutions: use the 335i bearing, it fits 100% the M3 shaft, or rotate the M3 bearing with the TOP marking facing DOWN and add washers under the fixing bolts to put the axle back in line with the gearbox. no alignment needed with the diff, there is the homocynetic making the job
I tried the m3 bearing up side down and I still found the prop wasn't at the perfect angle coming off the gearbox. Adding washers wouldn't work as the prop needs to get closer to the floor of the car. I've fitted a 335i bearing from the advice you gave me a while ago but have yet to drive my car.

Changing over the prop bearing takes less than an hour, you just need to mark up the prop so it goes back the same way and doesn't need rebalancing.

BTW congrats on getting the swap done.
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      02-13-2013, 11:33 AM   #277
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running already one year with the swap

and swapped front carriers too, now full M3 brakes and dampers with EDC
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      02-13-2013, 11:35 AM   #278
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Sorry the last comment was aimed at N111CUK

You had yours completed well before me
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      02-13-2013, 11:44 AM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idnan View Post
Sorry the last comment was aimed at N111CUK

You had yours completed well before me
Hi Idnan,

Well not quite I'm completing it this Friday. I had to re-order my KW V3's as I'm now on M3 running gear.

I'm also doing the Prop this Friday so I will take your advice (as always) and use the 335i center bearing.

What's involved in removing the bearing?
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      02-13-2013, 11:47 AM   #280
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Hi mate,

Make some marks on the prop so you can align it the same way when you put it back together. Then remove the 18mm bolt in the centre of the propshaft and split it into two. I knocked the old bearing off with a hammer and screwdriver, then used the old bearing to push the new one in place lightly tapping it with a hammer.
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      02-13-2013, 11:59 AM   #281
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This really is a great thread, great job OP I love it when someone fabricates a part that is better than stock and it works....but this is just awesome!

Respect!
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      02-13-2013, 03:52 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N111CUK View Post
Yes used m3 Center and can easily be adjusted to align with gearbox
How it can be adjusted?

Never mind
Ive read further.
Amazing guys thanks for sharing all that useful info

Last edited by RimasRS; 02-13-2013 at 04:15 PM.
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      02-15-2013, 11:01 AM   #283
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Propshaft being made up at the mo, although my engineer is going to remake the whole tubing from the centre section to the flange. He's a bit hard to make out at times, who knows what his plan is! Lol.

Anyway, he does props for everything from tractors, trucks to custom car stretches so I'll let him work away.
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      02-16-2013, 05:02 AM   #284
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Update on my prop

This thread has saved me some pain

I have followed Idnan's advice and i am now using the 335i centre bearing. My previous statement was wrong you cannot adjust it to match up like OEM

So the prop shop have confirmed the best way to do this is cut and shut from the tri bolt flange

So use the flange, centre bearing and measure from centre bearing bolt hole on chassis to the inside face of the prop tri flange

My measurement on a 6AT was 635mm
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      02-16-2013, 02:41 PM   #285
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On the topic of the centre bearing, looking at RealOEM.com there's 3 parts - the aluminium carrier, the bearing, and a choice of 3 grooved damper rings.

Just wondering about what parts are needed, as the 335i shaft is grooved as it passes through the bearing, but the M3 is smooth.


#edit - worked it out, no damper ring needed!, the grooved part only begins after the 335i shaft has passed through the bearing#

Last edited by Nigelo; 02-16-2013 at 02:49 PM.
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      02-26-2013, 01:23 PM   #286
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Some updates guys Special Thanks for OP Idnan Marconi118 Nigelo and others.
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