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      02-04-2012, 02:12 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_g80 View Post
Judging from all the symtoms I figure it was the water pump, but since the tstat is right there I replaced it too. I figured better spend $100 now and hopefully avoid dealing with it again for a while.

If you want to do it in steps from least $ to most $, you can, but it's quiet a bit of work. Took me 8hrs to replace both (would be same time for either, since both tstat and pump have to come out for you to replace either).
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      02-04-2012, 04:57 PM   #68
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Can you guys please post the part # for the bolts to be replaced? I think those are blue painted. Thanks a lot.
When I replaced my water pump back in July, I ordered the new bolt kit. The new bolts in the kit are not blue-headed. I don't think they need to be replaced (BMW must have changed the specs). The old bolts and new bolts were exactly the same except for the blue paint. The bolts hold the aluminum water pump to the the magniesum block through rubber bushings. There is not much torque required to hold the pump in place. The old bolts are not torqued to the point where they stretch and break if you reuse them.
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      02-05-2012, 02:31 AM   #69
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Is programming by dealer required after you replace the pump?
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      02-05-2012, 09:59 AM   #70
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Is programming by dealer required after you replace the pump?
No. But make sure you clear the fault code BEFORE you plug in the new pump and restart the engine.
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      02-05-2012, 03:57 PM   #71
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No. But make sure you clear the fault code BEFORE you plug in the new pump and restart the engine.
Cool. Thanks! Im dreading the day mine goes out. I have an cable and INPA program, just havent figured out where to read to go to read the water pump so I can get an idea on rpm or voltage and see if its slowly dying.
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      02-05-2012, 04:10 PM   #72
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Does anyone know what would constitute "low rpm?" I'm getting some overheating issues without the codes. Only happens when I push it really hard like on the track. It's fine on the street. Just wanted to know what the pump is capable of vs what causes the code to come up.
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      02-07-2012, 08:44 AM   #73
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Cool. Thanks! Im dreading the day mine goes out. I have an cable and INPA program, just havent figured out where to read to go to read the water pump so I can get an idea on rpm or voltage and see if its slowly dying.
They will be codes in the ECU. They are BMW specific codes. Not sure if your reader reads them or not. The BT scan tool does.
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      02-22-2012, 10:51 AM   #74
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Great DIY. Thank a lot.

I first replaced the coolant with distilled water and did venting. So that water spilled on my face when removing pump and thermostat.
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      03-08-2012, 03:43 AM   #75
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my Water Pump died suddenly at about 112 000km just after 10km after a shop remapped the car to OEM yes, i wanted it to be non-remapped before i get the Accessport AP...

shop says it has nothing to do with that they remapped the ecu to OEM...
well cannot arque on that because i have no idea...
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      04-25-2012, 11:10 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by ENINTY View Post
No. But make sure you clear the fault code BEFORE you plug in the new pump and restart the engine.
Is it ok to clear the faults prior to removing the WP and Tstat, or should it be done after removing them and then reinstalling the new ones? I'll be doing this sometime this weekend.
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      04-26-2012, 03:28 PM   #77
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Is it ok to clear the faults prior to removing the WP and Tstat, or should it be done after removing them and then reinstalling the new ones? I'll be doing this sometime this weekend.
Clear the codes before you replace with the new parts and energize the ignition to start the bleeding process. Best thing to do is just clear the codes before you start work on it.

Good luck.
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      05-01-2012, 05:38 AM   #78
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Where is the best place to order the pump and stat from, I know BMW charges $835 for parts, but I'm looking at Turner and Bavarian too.
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      05-01-2012, 09:45 AM   #79
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I ordered mine from Turner. I think ECS Tuning had the best prices, but the parts were not in stock.
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      05-01-2012, 12:55 PM   #80
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But turners products are legit? I read about them not lasting as long
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      05-01-2012, 07:04 PM   #81
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For the love of GOD how do you take that top bolt off and hot do the hoses come off, what a pain it wouldnt be that bad if it wasnt for those damn mosquitos
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      05-05-2012, 07:24 PM   #82
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I'm changing mine right now. Thanks for the DIY.

Tischer just kitted the pump/thermostat/bolts with free shipping for $475 on their specials page!
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      05-07-2012, 08:46 AM   #83
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Just did mine, took me about 40 mins. The key is a lot of prep work. Just have everything ready to go. And deff don't forget the bleed out process. Its like contra cheat code lol. Ignition on, break brea break, gas gas, heater on 80 degrees and on lowest setting with the coolant cap off for 10 mins and it will bleed it out.
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      05-10-2012, 05:39 PM   #84
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I replaced the water pump and thermostat on a 06 325i (e90) but when I attempt to bleed the system I get no response and the car still over heats, any suggestions?
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      05-10-2012, 05:49 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eflores07081978 View Post
I replaced the water pump and thermostat on a 06 325i (e90) but when I attempt to bleed the system I get no response and the car still over heats, any suggestions?
Did u have the heater on when bleeding it out? With the cap off? And where the parts new? And does it spit out the coolant from the over flow when it over heats?
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      05-10-2012, 07:02 PM   #86
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My car still overheats as well. I'm trying to chase it down. It could either be a leak or maybe a bad power cable that has built up too much resistance over the many heat cycles. Those are the two going theories for me.
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      05-13-2012, 12:58 PM   #87
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bolting prolem

I'm in the middle of replacing the water pump on my E92 335, and I am having trouble getting the top aluminum bolt of the WP all the way in. The other 2 bolts went in just fine. It might be that the pump I got from Faulkner bmw does not have rubber grommets (this is the new Continental branded pump), so the hole thru which the bolts go is less deep.

What I did is, I took one of the used bolts, saw off the little unthreaded section at the bottom of the bolt (by hand, to avoid generating heat), and it went in just fine, torqued to aprox 80 in lb.

Does anybody see a problem with leaving the bolt in as it is?

---
Update: i did leave the bolt I cut in, and assembled everything.. Cooling system works well now.. Im a little nervous about that bolt and also due to the fact i used the used bolt and not the new.. The reason i used the old one is i think i overtorqued the new bolt when trying to fit it in before realizing it was too long to go in

Do i have reason to be nervous? The other 2 bolts (lower bolts) are new and torqued to spec
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Last edited by longhorn335; 05-13-2012 at 09:17 PM.
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      05-14-2012, 08:18 AM   #88
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Did u have the heater on when bleeding it out? With the cap off? And where the parts new? And does it spit out the coolant from the over flow when it over heats?
I did have the cap on, as for the parts the thermostat is new but the water pump was used but was supposed to be in working order. yes coolant does spit out.

Last edited by eflores07081978; 05-14-2012 at 09:56 AM.
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