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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > P0012 - Clean Eccentric Sensor- Swapped Vanos Sols - Help Please



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      03-09-2015, 03:32 PM   #1
tosaytheleased
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P0012 - Clean Eccentric Sensor- Swapped Vanos Sols - Help Please

Hey All,
Purchased a 08 e90 is November. I am not a newbie to cars but this is my first BMW so congrats to me.

Recently had misfires and checked which coils to change and then changed them.

Saturday I pulled a P0012 Code. I did the following after doing my due diligence but I am still a little shaky during start-up and my RPMs are fluctuating at stops and lights.

Recent Work:
2 weeks ago I replaced Ignition coils 4-6.
I also took it to Valvoline and they did the oil last week and I put Lucas Injector Cleaner as well thereafter.

Yesterday I cleaned and swapped the Vanos Solenoids with brake cleaner and compressed air.

My Eccentric Shaft Sensor is free of oil and debris - but I also cleaned it out as well.

Cleared the code at Advanced Auto Parts and I am still a little shaky during start and the RPMs are fluctuating.

Can anyone please help me diagnose this issue?
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      03-10-2015, 10:40 PM   #2
tosaytheleased
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Anyone?
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      03-10-2015, 11:46 PM   #3
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The car does fluctuate RPM on start-up. That's normal for aged N52 motors.
If the car drives fine and the misfires don't come back then your car is fine.
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      03-11-2015, 01:02 AM   #4
thomas88162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playground View Post
The car does fluctuate RPM on start-up. That's normal for aged N52 motors.
If the car drives fine and the misfires don't come back then your car is fine.
Sorry, but how is this normal? I have never seen an n52 that was maintained do such a thing.

Honestly it sounds like your VANOS solenoids are the issue, that is unless your engine has been taken apart down to the timing components recently
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      03-11-2015, 07:02 AM   #5
tosaytheleased
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Ok, I ordered 2 solenoids, should be here by Friday. I will install and post results.
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      03-11-2015, 07:14 AM   #6
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Don't forget to clean solenoid filters.
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      03-11-2015, 11:30 AM   #7
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Clean the solenoid filters?
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      03-11-2015, 11:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tosaytheleased View Post
Clean the solenoid filters?
I think he means the check valves. See here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096694
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      03-11-2015, 12:36 PM   #9
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May I just add that just because you cleaned the vanos solenoids doesn't guarantee 100% success. Even after cleaning and swapping my solenoids (in response to similar symptoms) I ended up having to buy a new unit as my problems didn't go away permanently. The cleaning helped, but only for a few days until the problem came up again.
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      03-11-2015, 02:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
I think he means the check valves. See here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096694
You are correct. Thank you!
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      03-11-2015, 05:59 PM   #11
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Well, since you are already replacing the costly solenoids, I would say just replace the check valves while you're at it - they are fairly cheap, so wouldn't bother cleaning them unless you really want to.
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      03-11-2015, 10:24 PM   #12
tosaytheleased
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Dang I wish I brought new valves as well. Oh well.

I will change the new vanos solenoids and see if it gets better.

I should change spark plugs now too as well right?

I have 2008 328 with 95,xxx miles.
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      03-12-2015, 12:17 AM   #13
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I have a 08 328 also. You would not believe how big the gap gets at 100k+ miles. Yes, it is time.
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      03-12-2015, 11:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeSmSp View Post
I have a 08 328 also. You would not believe how big the gap gets at 100k+ miles. Yes, it is time.
Haha I can only image. Ill change tomorrow.

I received the solenoids today and did a quick swap.

Took it for a spin and let it sit in the drive way and the rpms started jumping once or twice - as if I kicked the gas accidentally.

What could it be now?
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      03-13-2015, 01:13 AM   #15
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Like a sharp change in RPM or a more of a lumpy idle? Vacuum leaks, spark plugs, maybe even random misfires (plugs or coils) could do this. Generally there is either an air leak or a bad ignition component when idle quality is in question.
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      03-13-2015, 12:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas88162 View Post
Like a sharp change in RPM or a more of a lumpy idle? Vacuum leaks, spark plugs, maybe even random misfires (plugs or coils) could do this. Generally there is either an air leak or a bad ignition component when idle quality is in question.

Its usually just one jump and then it drops back to idle.

Im going to change spark plugs today. Im at 95xxx, dad says its about time. Could it be injectors?
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      03-13-2015, 02:54 PM   #17
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change plugs and coils. it will make everything run much smoother. (coil replacement would be kind of preventative measure).
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      03-13-2015, 08:10 PM   #18
tosaytheleased
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Ok guys,
Came home today, changed spark plugs and the rest of the ignition coils.

Car runs much smoother to say the least.

However, my dad and I took it for a spin and after running it pretty hard down the street a few times, back home idling it jumped up to 1000 rpms and back down.

Im not sure if its an injector issue now? I believe I smelled gas when changing spark plug 5...
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      03-14-2015, 12:27 PM   #19
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Injectors can be hard to diagnose. You can try pulling the rail and putting something under them to check for leaks, but that is about it other than sending them in for conditioning. Other than that I still say looking over your vacuum system is worth a shot for air leaks. Very easy and cheap fix if that were the culprit. These are really the only two things (injectors and vacuum leaks) that I would think could be upsetting your idle.
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      03-16-2015, 09:35 AM   #20
tosaytheleased
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas88162 View Post
Injectors can be hard to diagnose. You can try pulling the rail and putting something under them to check for leaks, but that is about it other than sending them in for conditioning. Other than that I still say looking over your vacuum system is worth a shot for air leaks. Very easy and cheap fix if that were the culprit. These are really the only two things (injectors and vacuum leaks) that I would think could be upsetting your idle.
Thank you. I will try this tonight.

UPDATE: I changed my intake camshaft positioning sensor and SES light immediately went away on startup - which is nice. Idle is smoother. Throttle feels much more responsive.

Other than that now, the car is taking just a tad bit longer to crank while starting up. Maybe I should change the exhaust camshaft positioning sensor as well?

Thoughts.
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      03-16-2015, 02:31 PM   #21
thomas88162
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Hey if the other one was bad it couldn't hurt. Do you know what your SES code was for? I know you originally had P0012 but you said that one was cleared? What is your version of "a tad bit longer"? I only ask because it varies a LOT from person to person
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      03-16-2015, 02:51 PM   #22
tosaytheleased
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas88162 View Post
Hey if the other one was bad it couldn't hurt. Do you know what your SES code was for? I know you originally had P0012 but you said that one was cleared? What is your version of "a tad bit longer"? I only ask because it varies a LOT from person to person
So my buddy has the ETHOS computer scanner - which is BOSS btw. Scanned it Saturday.

Anyways -the code was 2A82 - VANOS Inlet. I just brought a new one and swapped it 2 days prior. So I was at a loss for words because it was just swapped with 2 brand new ones, intake and exhaust. I changed the intake Camshaft positioning sensor which I believe was "A" referencing the P0012 code.

I noticed the start was almost a half second to a second longer. Its definitely something you notice.
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