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      06-14-2017, 02:41 PM   #1
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'07 328i - low miles - what to expect repair up to 100K

I apologize if this should be in the general forum area ... but I just wanted to hear from N52 owners on what common things to expect to repair, which may make purchasing an aftermarket Bumper-Bumper warranty worth while. (outside of the typical wear parts such as: spark plugs, brakes, belts, etc)

I have a 2007 328i with about 37,500 miles. I bought it last November with 29k on it.

I know BMWs will can be quite costly to repair, and $$ can add up quickly even when using an Indy shop. And was aware of this when I decided to purchase a used BMW.

Since I got it, I had to replace the starter ... which wasn't a huge deal since I was already having a 3IM installed, so it was really just the part and whatever labor that added to the overall job. I know that the VCG needs to be replaced due to an oil leak (~ $400 job quote). This is my first BMW ... to me these repairs at this mileage didn't even factor into my thought process when buying it, figuring I'd be safe until I got around the 70k mile area. At the moment, I don't really have the time or place to work on it myself (outside of changing oil and occasional bulbs). So any issues occur ... off to the shop for repair.


I'm not looking to turn this into a warranty vs no warranty debate ... just a realistic look at what are the typical repairs I should expect in the next 60K.



I know extended warranties are a crapshoot if you're going to use one. (used my CPO Audi's warranty 1 time ... but ran out of miles too fast so it's not a good comparison, didn't use my CPO Toyota's either ... now over miles). Frankly, I don't think that I've spent $3k on any one vehicle. I was close on my Audi but it had 150K when I traded it in on the BMW. My '01 F-350 diesel would be next but it has 175k. But reading through BMW forums it seems that I will be more than likely to use the warranty than not when compared to my previous vehicles (4 Fords, 3 Toyotas including a Geo LSI, 1 Subaru, 1 Saab, 1 Audi).

I can get an Allstate affiliate Fortegra, Bumper - Bumper plan at a max of 48mo/60K for $3200, as well as other number of months. I understand Allstate is a bit more expensive ... but that's seems to be close to what others are paying for high coverages. And frankly, finding one that will "bumper - bumper" a 10 year old car is difficult to find, so paying a premium for it isn't out of the question ... especially when it covers gaskets without any other issues attached to it. So I know I would be using it for the VCG shortly.



Thank you for any input.



.

Last edited by N52UNED; 06-14-2017 at 03:46 PM.
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      06-14-2017, 03:01 PM   #2
Jeffeypoo
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I would find a good shop if you do not have time to DIY; however, each item listed below takes less than a days work to complete.

I have taken my car I just purchased to get serviced 6 times under warranty (PARTS COST THEM $4600). 8 issues total which were covered under warranty 100%. The only downside is that they gave me my car back with scratches, chips and cosmetic issues that were not there previously.
FIND A GOOD SHOP!

Suggestion: When you replace the Valve Cover Gasket, clean the Vanos Solenoids if you do not replace them and dont do what this guy did: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1393472

Valve cover gasket: $40
Oil Filter housing gasket: $20
Oil Filter housing: $180
Thermostat housing: $120
Coils: $30 each
Plugs: $80 for all 6
Vanos Solenoids: $150 each (2 exterior)
Fuel Tank Vent Valve: Dumps fumes to vent into the engine's intake $90
Front and Rear brake kit: $400
Oil Pan Gasket: $40

All of these items will fail at one point. I am not an experienced mechanic, just a DIY freak and I can complete all of these with DIY found in this community and Pelican DIY pics.

Each part I listed above can be replaced in less than a days work while taking your time and taking breaks to eat.

The only thing I have not seen or done myself is resetting the Valvetronic Camshaft Adjusting Unit during the valve cover gasket replacement process.

Good luck with your new ride! If it helps you sleep at night, get the warranty if you can afford it.

Last edited by Jeffeypoo; 06-14-2017 at 03:13 PM.
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      06-14-2017, 03:11 PM   #3
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That is a low mileage for that year.

Potential issues you are looking at (part prices in prentecies):
- water pump (~$400 in parts)
- valve cover gasket leak ($40)
- oil housing gasket ($25)
- few coils (eventually) ($25 each)
- spark plugs (~$12 each)
- vanos solenoid (just clean them, or replace $130 each)
- serpentine belt (OEM kit $100 or $25 just for the belt)
- oil pan gasket ($40 - Indy shop usually charges about $800 to replace)
- transmission flush (~$40)
- power steering flush ($40 for the kit including new reservoir)
- coolant flush ($20-40)
- brake fluid flush ($30)


And then you might be looking at general stuf:
Air filter ($20)
AC filter ($20)
Oil changes
Wiper blades ($40 - get them from BMW)


Potential issues affecting all e9x -
ac blower fan failing ($250)
Door actuators (~$200 each)
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      06-14-2017, 09:57 PM   #4
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I think it all depends on the prior owner's maintenance plan. I bought my 2007 328xi with 180,000 miles on it. None of typical e90 problems have happened to me; that could mean that they already happened. I would hazard a guess that the 85,000 to 145,000 mile range is probably the most expensive (past 180k too, but most people upgrade by that point. I'm just a poor Echo 4 who loves my wagon). The thought process to me is that the parts that fail or need servicing in that mileage range are the most expensive/challenging to repair. For example: struts, clutch, suspension bushings, water pump, and other random things that wouldn't fall under your "normal" maintenance: brakes, oil, wipers, ect.
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      06-15-2017, 10:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W37V View Post
That is a low mileage for that year.
... ... ...
Sure isn't typical ... but it seems here in the Sunshine State ... there's quite a few out there. I'm guessing it's because you get wealthy "Snowbirds" who leave a car here for when they visit.

It's a 2 owner car. Had 29,300 miles when I bought it. Clean CarFax ... the only things done were oil changes (one was in NY ... so I'm guessing one owner was from there and did the drive up and back). Each sale was a "local" sale (trade-in) ... including mine. 2 at local BMW dealerships ... I bought it from a Nissan dealer (it was traded in a day or two before).

Perhaps the last owner knew the starter was going and the VCG so decided to trade it vs dropping $1K into a car they don't think is worth much.

(when I bought it ... I had no idea the starter was going because I'm not used to push button starters, so I don't know how to notice an issue. Also the oil leak didn't present itself until a few thousand miles later when I cornered heavy. I'm guessing its a small leak where the oil is pooling a bit and only under heavy cornering does it flow onto the manifold).

.
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      06-15-2017, 11:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N52UNED View Post
I have a 2007 328i with about 37,500 miles. I bought it last November with 29k on it.

I can get an Allstate affiliate Fortegra, Bumper - Bumper plan at a max of 48mo/60K for $3200, as well as other number of months. I understand Allstate is a bit more expensive ... but that's seems to be close to what others are paying for high coverages. And frankly, finding one that will "bumper - bumper" a 10 year old car is difficult to find, so paying a premium for it isn't out of the question ... especially when it covers gaskets without any other issues attached to it. So I know I would be using it for the VCG shortly
That Allstate/Fortegra extended warranty covers 48 months from the day you purchase it and 60K miles total(37.5k+22.5K)? or on top of your current mileage 37.5k to 97.5k total?
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      06-15-2017, 12:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraMarty View Post
That Allstate/Fortegra extended warranty covers 48 months from the day you purchase it and 60K miles total(37.5k+22.5K)? or on top of your current mileage 37.5k to 97.5k total?
Yup. So I'll be covered until just under 100k miles.

The thing is I'm not sure how many shops around the US accept Fortegra. I'm checking options, but an extended warranty coverage for a 10 year old car is very limiting, even more so with a Bumper-Bumper. Their website isn't very informative ... but according to the shop I'd get it through ... the warranty covers pretty much everything outside of regular maintenance stuff ... the same as the Allstate program with $100 deductible.
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      06-15-2017, 01:32 PM   #8
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That's impressive for a 10 year old car.

I have a '07 328xi with 83k, so I could get 4 years to 143k miles. That's wild.
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      06-15-2017, 02:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraMarty View Post
That's impressive for a 10 year old car.

I have a '07 328xi with 83k, so I could get 4 years to 143k miles. That's wild.
I believe this one max's out at 100K odometer reading.



I did find Endurance. They are not quite bumper-bumper. They might have one that will carry over the 100k odometer. I asked if they cover gaskets ... the rep stated a kind of clue on how they cover gaskets, although it's not directly listed.

He mentioned it's not the gasket that's the issue, but some sort of pressure or issue that's not the gasket itself. ... so basically what to tell the repair shop to tell Endurance so they'll cover the gasket, since it's covered being part of the repair process (ex. VCG work). I can't imagine most or any shop would have an issue with finding a way so that it's covered.
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      06-15-2017, 11:19 PM   #10
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The problem with your car is it has not been driven enough and hard enough.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission.
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      06-15-2017, 11:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
The problem with your car is it has not been driven enough and hard enough.
Lol! Yeah sitting in garages and driven to the clubhouse every weekend during the winters for the past 10 years didn't help I guess .

It took about 4-5K miles before the car "learned" my driving. When it went from Driving Miss Daisy mode to normal BMW performance ... it was like someone flicked a switch and it woke up.

The funny thing was I bought a 3IM and Tune because it lacked performance; just afterwards it woke up ... so I figured ... eh, I got the parts ... might as well make it faster anyway.
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      06-16-2017, 12:29 AM   #12
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I'm barely at 125k, and it's taken me 3 years to get there from 99k.

Lets see, I 've replaced an angel eye bulb, one coil (that probably didn't even fail - it was just loose, but I already had the new one - I still have the original sitting on the shelf), I ran over a bungie chord that destroyed a rear tire, and uhm.. I changed the oil 3 times?

Pretty horrible, I know.
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      06-16-2017, 06:35 AM   #13
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OP, I've started threads twice, once about hitting 200,000 miles, then second for 300,000 miles and gave a whole bunch of detail on operating costs. Now at 325,000 miles I just dropped in a new (42K-mile used) diff - mine really didn't need replacement though (long story), also installed new rear wheel bearings and a re-manufactured driveshaft, all for about $1,100 (DIY). So with those last repairs my tally for all non-maintenance repair items over 325,000 miles has been just $9,200. All but $2,400 of that is DIY (i.e. free labor). The $2,400 was a dealer repair of the AC in 2008. If you came and looked at and drove my car, you'd think it has 20,000 miles on it. In December 2015, my niece got in it for the first time and asked if I got a new car; it had almost 300,000 miles on it at the time. And trust me, I don't not baby the thing.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission.
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      06-16-2017, 06:37 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
I'm barely at 125k, and it's taken me 3 years to get there from 99k.

Lets see, I 've replaced an angel eye bulb, one coil (that probably didn't even fail - it was just loose, but I already had the new one - I still have the original sitting on the shelf), I ran over a bungie chord that destroyed a rear tire, and uhm.. I changed the oil 3 times?

Pretty horrible, I know.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission.
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      06-16-2017, 09:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
I'm barely at 125k, and it's taken me 3 years to get there from 99k.

Lets see, I 've replaced an angel eye bulb, one coil (that probably didn't even fail - it was just loose, but I already had the new one - I still have the original sitting on the shelf), I ran over a bungie chord that destroyed a rear tire, and uhm.. I changed the oil 3 times?

Pretty horrible, I know.
I've had a bungie kill a tire too. It looked like a small piece of rope or broken belt in the road ... didn't even think about it when I ran it over ... never imagined that hook would hook into my tire.

... makes me wonder what was done before 99K
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      06-16-2017, 10:15 AM   #16
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I had a 4" long lag bolt stuck in the tire of my Jeep once. Sadly that thing is so loud inside I could only hear a faint clicking, like a rock in my tire. The tire didn't loose any air somehow. BF Goodrich All-Terrain.

As for the BMW E90 with the N52 these are normal maintenance items:
-Water pump and thermostat
-Oil filter housing gasket
-Serpentine belt and tensioner, a good idea to replace idler pulley too
-Spark plugs and eventually coils
-Valve cover gasket
-Battery
-Starter (usually around 100k)


Many also recommend changing the transmission fluid in the automatics around 100k miles or a bit before. Changing the differential oil and the transfer case fluid on an X-Drive is also a good idea.


I find the easiest thing to do is create an Excel spreadsheet with maintenance items and the mileage they need to be replaced. I do this for all the vehicles/equipment I own and service.
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      06-16-2017, 10:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTinline-six View Post
I had a 4" long lag bolt stuck in the tire of my Jeep once. Sadly that thing is so loud inside I could only hear a faint clicking, like a rock in my tire. The tire didn't loose any air somehow. BF Goodrich All-Terrain.

As for the BMW E90 with the N52 these are normal maintenance items:
-Water pump and thermostat
-Oil filter housing gasket
-Serpentine belt and tensioner, a good idea to replace idler pulley too
-Spark plugs and eventually coils
-Valve cover gasket
-Battery
-Starter (usually around 100k)


Many also recommend changing the transmission fluid in the automatics around 100k miles or a bit before. Changing the differential oil and the transfer case fluid on an X-Drive is also a good idea.

I'm already at the VGC and Starter.

Frankly, I'm surprised that a car with as low of miles as I have would have these 2 issues so soon. This is the only reason why I'm questioning a warranty or not. However I think I'll likely get most of my investment out of the coverage when I get closer to the 100K mark. Especially if I get one that covers gaskets without any other issue attached.

Regarding the Starter ... perhaps the prior owner kept holding the button in or something like that. IDK ... all I know is the Starter was going at 29K (when I bought it but didn't realize the characteristics of a Push Button Starter going) seems wicked early in it's life. The VGC ... Eh, maybe because it mostly sat in garages for the past 10 years.
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      06-16-2017, 11:44 AM   #18
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it could just be corrosion on the electrical connections since the car is 10 years old... or a battery that's on its way out.

I had a 2 year old battery go bad on me and I figured it was the starter. until I tested the battery and it read a low voltage. I have an 07 as well.
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      06-16-2017, 02:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iahawkeye View Post
it could just be corrosion on the electrical connections since the car is 10 years old... or a battery that's on its way out.

I had a 2 year old battery go bad on me and I figured it was the starter. until I tested the battery and it read a low voltage. I have an 07 as well.
It was the starter ... no more lag since it was replaced. I thought it was my battery too ... threw a charge on it (battery read 80% when first connected to my charger). After the charge, it started without a lag the first time, but back to the same lag after a couple more starts.
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      06-16-2017, 08:21 PM   #20
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Where you bought starter ??
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      06-16-2017, 08:52 PM   #21
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Where you bought starter ??
The Bosh shop installed it when they were installing the 3IM. Obviously they installed a Bosh starter.
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