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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY E90 Rear Differential Oil Change



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      05-12-2010, 09:33 PM   #1
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DIY E90 Rear Differential Oil Change

Tools needed:

14mm Hex - 1/2" drive
1/2" drive Ratchet
Transfer Pump
Jack Stands/Ramps
Low profile floor jack


Specs (Thanks to Agentphish):

Plug: 60 Nm (44 ft lb)

Aspiration Rear differential Capacity (L/qt)
Natural 188L / 188 LW 1.0/1.05
Turbo 215L / 215LW 1.2/1.3

Drive the car around for a while to warm up the rear diff oil.

Then lift the car and make it level.

Remove the drain bolt and insert the transfer pump into the differential and remove the old oil - real nasty, dirty smelling stuff into the drain pan. Try to hold the hose into a downward position of the inside of the differential to get ride of the bottom sludge. Beware of splashing into the pan. When I removed the drain plug, hardly a drop of old oil came out, but just in case, have the pan and a rag ready.

When done removing most of the old stuff, Wipe everything down and insert the intake side of the pump into the new bottles of oil and the release portion into the differential. Begin pumping until new oil starts overflowing from the drain hole. I went through about 1 and a half quarts of royal purple. That is why the car needs to be level.

Wipe everything down again and screw the drain plug back on. I hava a torque wrench, but not knowing the specs, I guessed based off how much force it took to remove it.

Done.

Thanks,
Danny
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Last edited by HRC; 01-27-2014 at 06:57 PM.
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      05-12-2010, 10:56 PM   #2
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good write up

is there a crush washer that needs to be replaced? wouldn't mind finding out now since i plan on doing this soon.

what are your thoughts on royal purple's 75w140 over 75w90?

Last edited by mike3000fl; 05-12-2010 at 11:08 PM.
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      05-13-2010, 02:08 AM   #3
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Did it need replacing Danny?
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      05-13-2010, 02:35 AM   #4
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Yup, old stuff was not good.

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      05-13-2010, 05:17 AM   #5
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The washer was reusable, no problem. My car had 69K when I did this.

I choose 140 only because the shop was out of 90. I figured it can't hurt. If it's not the right weight, I'll swap out the 140 for the 90.

Danny

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike3000fl View Post
good write up

is there a crush washer that needs to be replaced? wouldn't mind finding out now since i plan on doing this soon.

what are your thoughts on royal purple's 75w140 over 75w90?
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      05-13-2010, 05:35 PM   #6
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Car feels smoother now.

Danny
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      05-14-2010, 08:43 AM   #7
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I just did mine last weekend and replaced the old plug with the new one(the new one came with the washer). If you don't have the right equipment it can get really messy. My car only had 49.5k miles on it and the fluid was barely discolored so I'd say the exhange for my situation was probably a little premature. Eitherway I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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      05-14-2010, 08:44 AM   #8
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Forgot to mention I also used redline 75w90
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      02-23-2011, 03:35 AM   #9
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xi

is the same for the all wheels drive cars (xi) i thought there were two differentials in the xi rear and center ?
please let me know

thanks
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      02-26-2011, 08:09 AM   #10
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Not to sound like your Mother or anything, but did you really get under a car that was supported by two plastic ramps, a hydraulic jack and two jack stands placed on the left rear lift point, and on the rear subframe cross member?
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      02-26-2011, 09:22 AM   #11
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Unknown Torque Value

When a torque value is unknown a good rule to follow is :

snug plus 1/6 of a turn.
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      02-26-2011, 11:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENINTY View Post
Not to sound like your Mother or anything, but did you really get under a car that was supported by two plastic ramps, a hydraulic jack and two jack stands placed on the left rear lift point, and on the rear subframe cross member?
I was thinking the exact same thing, that was one strange setup.
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      02-27-2011, 05:20 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENINTY View Post
Not to sound like your Mother or anything, but did you really get under a car that was supported by two plastic ramps, a hydraulic jack and two jack stands placed on the left rear lift point, and on the rear subframe cross member?

Yes I did, not the best decision i have made.

Danny
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      02-27-2011, 11:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HRC View Post
Yes I did, not the best decision i have made.

Danny
I've had a car fall on me. It's not fun and I was about 9 or 10 years old when it happened. Get another set of stands, cheap insurance.
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      03-01-2011, 10:49 PM   #15
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Very nice write up. Definitely get a set of stands to hold the car up though. I just did this and I lifted the car drained out what I could then lifted the back and removed the back stands to allow it to angle down to get the last bit out and put it level again.
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      03-02-2011, 06:01 PM   #16
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What's the BMW service interval on the fluid?
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      03-02-2011, 06:43 PM   #17
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Is there a reason people didn't remove the diff cover to drain the old fluid? I wouldn't trust that pump to get all of the old stuff out.
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      03-07-2011, 03:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney View Post
What's the BMW service interval on the fluid?
BMW says "lifetime" which is umm...whatever. In car talk, lifetime means 100k miles.

Danny
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      03-07-2011, 10:21 PM   #19
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What's the part number for the stock fluid? Can't find it anywhere.
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      03-08-2011, 02:57 AM   #20
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I searched Real OEM and Tisher, no fluids for the rear diff. Maybe because it's "lifteime". Just go buy redline or royal purple, probably better than OEM anyways.

Danny
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      03-12-2011, 09:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
What's the part number for the stock fluid? Can't find it anywhere.
Diff Oil P/N Bulk 83 22 1 467 993. Too my knowledge diff oil is only sold in bulk (55 gal drum). I went to Tischer one day and brought a 1 gal. contanier and bought a gallon of it.
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      05-20-2011, 11:52 PM   #22
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this should be stickied! very easy and straight forward. TY DANNY! will be doing my "inspection 2" really soon
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