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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Stuttering, Misfiring, Stumbling--Fixed!



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      05-19-2010, 06:44 PM   #23
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I have this now.... codes say #3 is misfireing...

Should I try this?? have appt with dealer tommorow??

Also I had the rev thing happen at the dealer when they updated my software. They thought they had killed the car. They ended up finding my tune and charging me 400 bucks to reprogram the ecu. I wonder if this would have worked. Car wouldn't move....just rev high, low, high, low
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      05-19-2010, 07:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. 5 View Post
I was always curious with when to reset things but I've never got the true answer.
The question that I always had is, "When resetting things, should the engine be off or on?"
People are quick to say that the engine should be off but there's nothing to back up the statement.

When I reset these devices, the engine was on and everything reset perfectly fine.
Now, I can see how resetting the ECU with the engine running probably wouldn't be the best thing to do, but when talking about air/fuel and throttle plates I don't see how it could have been a bad thing.
I do all things with the car off, only basis I have is on my last car, If I modified an ECU change while the car is on (specifically while "tuning"), the car would stumble and burp for a little bit. This was probably because during the upload process the ECU would restart. Depends on the car, but the safest route is always when off, just avoids some potential head aches.
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      05-19-2010, 10:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPSlick View Post
I do all things with the car off, only basis I have is on my last car, If I modified an ECU change while the car is on (specifically while "tuning"), the car would stumble and burp for a little bit. This was probably because during the upload process the ECU would restart. Depends on the car, but the safest route is always when off, just avoids some potential head aches.
yep +1
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      05-19-2010, 10:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPSlick View Post
I do all things with the car off, only basis I have is on my last car, If I modified an ECU change while the car is on (specifically while "tuning"), the car would stumble and burp for a little bit. This was probably because during the upload process the ECU would restart. Depends on the car, but the safest route is always when off, just avoids some potential head aches.
I wonder though what the process should be.
Bavarian Technic doesn't say.
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      05-25-2010, 05:45 PM   #27
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Did you reset each one and then drive around then reset another? or did you just reset them all at once?

Thanks!
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      05-25-2010, 06:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perfectus View Post
Did you reset each one and then drive around then reset another? or did you just reset them all at once?

Thanks!
I did them at once, but made sure that each one reset before I went to the next one.
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      06-01-2010, 10:18 AM   #29
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Mr.5 - This worked for me. Thank you very much, I have a 6MT and did the adaption commands with the car off.

After I changed spark plugs for the first time (13k miles), I was having rough cold starts, sputtering and stumbling. I did not have any misfires but it almost felt like the car was missing. Also, with the car warm or cold, I would have the rpm needle rising and falling while at stop lights and more stumbling (close to a miss).

Once I reset the adaptions you listed the car runs like brand new. Cold or Hot the idle rpm sits with the top of the needle at 600 rpms and it does not move even when sitting at a stop light for a couple of minutes.

This makes sense to me since the old spark plugs had the electrodes eaten away and there was a much wider gap. The car probably adapted to the slow change in gap getting wider, but had a hard time going back to the stock gap in an instant.

Thanks for this post.

I did have lots of errors after short testing all modules when I was done. I cleared all codes once, and most went away, cleared again and all errors were gone, then took it out for a drive. Perrrrrfect!

I reset them all at one sittling like you did. Waited for the BT status bar to go from working to command sent successfully before proceding to the next command.
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      06-01-2010, 05:05 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottp999 View Post
Mr.5 - This worked for me. Thank you very much, I have a 6MT and did the adaption commands with the car off.

After I changed spark plugs for the first time (13k miles), I was having rough cold starts, sputtering and stumbling. I did not have any misfires but it almost felt like the car was missing. Also, with the car warm or cold, I would have the rpm needle rising and falling while at stop lights and more stumbling (close to a miss).

Once I reset the adaptions you listed the car runs like brand new. Cold or Hot the idle rpm sits with the top of the needle at 600 rpms and it does not move even when sitting at a stop light for a couple of minutes.

This makes sense to me since the old spark plugs had the electrodes eaten away and there was a much wider gap. The car probably adapted to the slow change in gap getting wider, but had a hard time going back to the stock gap in an instant.

Thanks for this post.

I did have lots of errors after short testing all modules when I was done. I cleared all codes once, and most went away, cleared again and all errors were gone, then took it out for a drive. Perrrrrfect!

I reset them all at one sittling like you did. Waited for the BT status bar to go from working to command sent successfully before proceding to the next command.

I too changed my plugs @ 30k and had the limp mode upon starting. Too bad this thread wasnt out when it happened to me. I took it to the dealer and they replaced injector 6 with a new plug. Car was running fine before the plugs were changed too. So weird, coincidence? Hmmm

Great point of discussion!
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      06-01-2010, 05:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottp999 View Post
Mr.5 - This worked for me. Thank you very much, I have a 6MT and did the adaption commands with the car off.

After I changed spark plugs for the first time (13k miles), I was having rough cold starts, sputtering and stumbling. I did not have any misfires but it almost felt like the car was missing. Also, with the car warm or cold, I would have the rpm needle rising and falling while at stop lights and more stumbling (close to a miss).

Once I reset the adaptions you listed the car runs like brand new. Cold or Hot the idle rpm sits with the top of the needle at 600 rpms and it does not move even when sitting at a stop light for a couple of minutes.

This makes sense to me since the old spark plugs had the electrodes eaten away and there was a much wider gap. The car probably adapted to the slow change in gap getting wider, but had a hard time going back to the stock gap in an instant.

Thanks for this post.

I did have lots of errors after short testing all modules when I was done. I cleared all codes once, and most went away, cleared again and all errors were gone, then took it out for a drive. Perrrrrfect!

I reset them all at one sittling like you did. Waited for the BT status bar to go from working to command sent successfully before proceding to the next command.

I'm really glad it worked for you.
IMO, it's worth it to try the resets before going in to the dealer.
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      06-04-2010, 12:57 AM   #32
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Hi Guys,

I tried resetting the Lamda Adaptation and in the bottom left hand corner of the Bav Tech app it says that the send command failed.

I was trying this as i have had a persistent problem with a lamda code that seems to always go off every 2000 miles.

Any thoughts or suggestions as to why the bav tech app is not allowing me to execute the adaptation reset.

Thanks
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      06-04-2010, 08:58 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightemup88 View Post
Hi Guys,

I tried resetting the Lamda Adaptation and in the bottom left hand corner of the Bav Tech app it says that the send command failed.

I was trying this as i have had a persistent problem with a lamda code that seems to always go off every 2000 miles.

Any thoughts or suggestions as to why the bav tech app is not allowing me to execute the adaptation reset.

Thanks
Bav tech support usually responds in 24 hours or less. Shoot them an email.
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      06-24-2010, 02:42 PM   #34
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everytime my car goes into one of these crazy rough idle modes and constant LIMP modes, i just plug in the BT cable and erase all faults and reset and all is well for a few weeks then starts again so I reset again. I have never done any selective resets as u guys mentioned above. i just reset everythng. All my rough idles and LIMPs were in the mornings on cold start. Car always ran well once warmed up. Initially i thought i was getting the pump failure but if the symptoms go away after clearing the codes then it cant be the pump.

I think that 90% of everyone's problems are actually the electronics and ECU, but sooooo many people take their cars in to the dealer and have everything replaced for no reason and then they get more real problems.

If you ever have a problem, always recet the ECU with the BT cable OR just unhook your battery which also recets the ECU. If the problem persists after a computer reset then u may have an actual hardware problem and not an ECU malfunction
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      06-24-2010, 02:45 PM   #35
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p.s. havent had to reset anything in months now and havent had a LIMP in months now that the weather is warm. all my problems were in the winter with the temps less than 50 and ALWAYS on cold starts in the morning. dont know why but then again, a simple reset used to fix the problem for a while until its tarted again. not looking forward to winter again
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      07-17-2010, 12:55 PM   #36
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I have had all 6 injectors replaced, fuel pump, and plugs.

I continue to get misfires on heavy acceleration. They moved an injector and the fault followed it. They replaced it and now its gone... Have same problem in two other of the cylinders, also new injectors. My dealer said they had to pay for the last one because BMW paid for 6 and that they don't make faulty equipment (lol).

I have begun to remove mods...SLD gone... reset throttle adaptations and ecu... Still misfires. Next is the JB3... maybe its a harness or something??? I am ready to buy a 2011 mustang GT at this point. I have been so patient with this vehicle and I just want to drive and enjoy...

Anyone ever have a bad Tuner Harness? How about connectors? I wonder if the plugs that go to the ecu if plugged and unplugged a few times could created a lack of data transfer to like a fuel line or something on the top end. The last time this happened, BMW re-replaced and injector and the problem went away. Its been gone for 30 days and has just started to come back. It usually gets worse working its way to the bottom end...starting in 5th and 4th gear...If you cruise and then accelerate I get a bogging sensation and then a shutter. If I push through it I will get ses light then check engine. Not sure what to do next....Lemon??
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      07-17-2010, 03:49 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Eater View Post
It usually gets worse working its way to the bottom end...starting in 5th and 4th gear...If you cruise and then accelerate I get a bogging sensation and then a shutter. If I push through it I will get ses light then check engine. Not sure what to do next....Lemon??
My car is 100% stock and I've been having the same issues as you. Under WOT at low rpms in higher gears, I get the stuttering thing happening-past 2.5K rpms it's fine.

Brought it in for the dealership to look at and now it's stumbling at higher rpms. This afternoon, I was on the highway and passed someone and the SES light comes on and the motor's shaking at 3K rpms. I downshift so that I am at 4K and it's smoother.

Decided to bring it to the dealer and when I got to a stoplight, engine smoothed out and the SES light went off.

ARGH!!!! Hopefully they can get this resolved. I got my car brand new and it's now got ~74K miles and I've had no real issues with this car with the exception of wastegate rattle (had turbos replaced)!
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      07-17-2010, 06:47 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed View Post
My car is 100% stock and I've been having the same issues as you. Under WOT at low rpms in higher gears, I get the stuttering thing happening-past 2.5K rpms it's fine.

Brought it in for the dealership to look at and now it's stumbling at higher rpms. This afternoon, I was on the highway and passed someone and the SES light comes on and the motor's shaking at 3K rpms. I downshift so that I am at 4K and it's smoother.

Decided to bring it to the dealer and when I got to a stoplight, engine smoothed out and the SES light went off.

ARGH!!!! Hopefully they can get this resolved. I got my car brand new and it's now got ~74K miles and I've had no real issues with this car with the exception of wastegate rattle (had turbos replaced)!
Mine does the same thing, but very intermittently, let me know your findings. Also did you try pulling your codes? Because when I get home to pull the codes none exist. Both Shadow and normal codes....strange stuff
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      07-18-2010, 02:34 PM   #39
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Mr. #5.... I have tried all of this and it has been a learning experience.

If you have a JB3 and leave it on any map besides 0.... you will get the idle attack everytime you start the car.
If you have an AA Speed Delimiter... you cannot make it go away with out removing it.

If you have DP fix...set it to by pass as you don't want the car to think there is o2 when there is not!

I have had all 6 injectors replaced and one of them twice. BMW agreed to pay for the first 6 and now is questioning what could be wrong with my car. Dealership agreed to pay for the 2nd injector and the car ran pretty well for about 30 days... Over that time I have turned on my jb3 and been adapting maps.. and turned on my meth as well.
All of the sudden.... the shuttering and missing has started again. It started in # 2 the first time, they moved it to #5 and it followed.... bad injector right? so why won't bmw own up to it? Now # 1 aND #3 are giving me the misfire code and the not filling code and I am afraid that BMW is done paying for this even though I have a full warranty. I have removed my tune and turned off the DP fix. I have the car now where it will not code on stock trim but under heavy boost it will miss almost immediately. My foreman and SA both know I am tuned and have worked hard on my car up to this point and now they are afraid that BMW is going to come down on them and make them pay for parts and labor EVEN THOUGH MY TROUBLE IS NOT TUNE RELATED. I have been through about all the dealers in this area and actually work for a dealership that owns a bmw store.... those guys won't return my emails or calls at this point as they know the car is tuned. I just want BMW to fix my car right....why is that such a problem..??
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      07-18-2010, 03:37 PM   #40
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I just did the reset with map 3 on, once I restart the car, I got half engine light, idle was like bonkers and no response from the gas pedal. I restarted the car again, it went away. Haven't try another restart yet, should I worry much or redo the reset again? Do it in map 0? Man, I swear that really scare the crap out of me, hahahaha
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      07-18-2010, 08:45 PM   #41
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Yesterday morning I reset all the adaptations Mr. 5 listed in his posts, all while the car was on, and still running map 5 on the jb3. waited until each one was done resetting and went on the next. finished all 3, turned the car off, and then restarted, and had/have no problems.

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      07-18-2010, 08:51 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by skifreek View Post
Yesterday morning I reset all the adaptations Mr. 5 listed in his posts, all while the car was on, and still running map 5 on the jb3. waited until each one was done resetting and went on the next. finished all 3, turned the car off, and then restarted, and had/have no problems.

aw... i did it while the car is off... i haven't have chance to start my car yet... so any suggestion if i restart it and the idle keeps revving again?
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      07-18-2010, 09:12 PM   #43
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keep your lap top near by....
reset throttle... then reset ecu.

If you reset while car is running...it may not take affect.. but I have reset the ecu with it running and knew it worked because I had codes that made it run rough until it was reset.... and the car stopped rumbling instantly...

I just can't believe.... 3 out of 6 new injectors malfunctioning..
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      07-18-2010, 09:18 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Eater View Post
keep your lap top near by....
reset throttle... then reset ecu.

If you reset while car is running...it may not take affect.. but I have reset the ecu with it running and knew it worked because I had codes that made it run rough until it was reset.... and the car stopped rumbling instantly...

I just can't believe.... 3 out of 6 new injectors malfunctioning..
cool, so if i start the car later, if it runs fine, then IT SHOULD be okay, rite?

if not, should i put it to map 0, then reset it with the car on?

thanks!
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