E90Post
 


TNT Racewerks
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY E90 335i Xdrive Front Wheel Bearing



Comment
 
Tutorial Tools Search this Tutorial
DIY E90 335i Xdrive Front Wheel Bearing
Published by isd8266
07-27-2013
DIY E90 335i Xdrive Front Wheel Bearing

Parts Needed:
- Wheel bearing: 31226783913
- Lock Ring: 07119934760
- Axle Nut: 33411133785


Tools Needed:
- 36mm 12point socket
- 10mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 24mm socket
- 17mm, 18mm, 24mm wrench
- 4.5mm, 6mm Hex key
- 5mm, 6mm, 7mm Hex bit sockets
- Screwdriver
- Curved nose pliers
- Press
- Below are images of the tools I made.






Suggested Tightening Torques:
- Axle Nut: 420Nm (310 ft-lb)
- Control Arm Bolt: 100Nm (74 ft-lb)
- Stabilizer Bar Link: 58Nm (42 ft-lb)
- Tension Strut: 165Nm (122 ft-lb)
- Tie Rod: 80Nm (59 ft-lb)
- Strut: 81Nm (60 ft-lb)

CAUTION: Before you being, just know that this is not an easy job. It all depends on where you live [Road salt!!!]. I live in NY and rust is a major factor and can cause a lot of issues, so if you do not have a lot of tools at your dispense you may have a hard time. My initial plan was to pull the bearing without detaching the steering knuckle, but the bearing was locked in with rust and required a press to remove it. I am in no way responsible for your work. If anyone wants dimensions for the tools I made let me know and Iíd be happy to help. Once again do at your own risk and good luck. Also thanks ken1137 for the detail, it helped out in the long run.


1. Remove the center cap off the wheel and loosen the axle nut using a (36mm 12 point) socket. The 12 point on mine was far gone so I had to drill it off.


2. Raise the car and remove the wheel, and the axle nut.
3. Remove the break caliper by first removing the clip by pressing it towards the caliper(Straight edge screwdriver).

4. Remove the plastic caps on the back of caliper and remove both pins using a (7mm) hex socket, the smaller pin is from the top and the larger from the bottom.



5. In order to remove the caliper you might have to apply pressure to the piston by prying with a screwdriver to free the caliper from the rotor.

6. Remove the rotor by using a hex key (6mm) to remove the holding screw.

7. Remove the dust shield by removing the 4 bolts with a (10mm) socket.



8. Remove the caliper mounting bracket by removing the two bolts using a (16mm) socket.

9. [Caution: Once you attempt this step the current bearing will be destroyed and you will not be able to drive the car until the bearing is replaced.]I used a slide hammer and a self made tool to remove the drive flange hub from the steering knuckle. This was before I realized the wheel bearing was rusted into the steering knuckle. If you do not have the capability to make such a tool, the easiest approach would be to remove the whole Steering knuckle assembly (follow next steps) and then push the drive flange hub out with a press.


10. Once the drive flange hub is removed, use a pair of curved needle nose pliers to remove to lock ring.

11. To follow the normal procedure, use a setup similar to bellow (Good front wheel drive bearing removal kits have similar disks, but I made mine.) and use a wrench to pull the bearing out of the steering knuckle. Since my bearing was rusted in I had to remove the steering knuckle and use a press. The following steps will demonstrate how to do so. Reference red highlights for step 17.


12. Remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle by using a (24mm) socket and a [(6mm) hex key needed for tightening.]

13. Remove the stabilizer bar link using a (17mm) wrench on the outside lower portion of the bar and a (16mm) socket on the outside lower nut. (bold highlighted in red)

14. Remove the control arm by remove the inside bolt using a (18mm) wrench and a (18mm) socket.

15. Remove the Tension strut (thrust arm) by removing the nut, using a (24mm) wrench and a (4.5mm) hex key. I had to use a ball joint separation tool in order to get the arm to separate from the steering knuckle. I didnít get a clear picture of this, but I circled where the nut is in red.

16. Remove the ABS sensor for the hub by using a (5mm) hex socket and carefully pry the sensor from the steering knuckle. Theyíre pretty easy to break so watch out.

17. Remove the strut bolt by using (18mm) wrench and a (18mm) socket. Once the bolt is removing if the steering knuckle has not fallen use a hammer to tap it down. I didnít get a picture of the bolt or nut, but highlighted their location in red in step 11ís second picture.

18. Now that the hub is free use a press to press the remained of the bearing out of the steering knuckle. Mine was locked it and required 8 tons of pressure to break the seal.


19. Remove the remainder of the bearing that is stuck on the drive flange hub by using a chisel and a hammer. Once there was a large enough gap, I used a bearing puller and plats to get the remainder off the shaft.



20. Clean both the inside of the steering knuckle and the drive flange hub. Be sure to clean where the rotor meets the drive flange hub. Once clean I applied anti seize to the inside of the steering knuckle.

21. Place the new bearing in the steering knuckle using a press and the old bearing to push it into the steering knuckle. [Important: Make sure the wide chamber of bearing is going into the hub. On the bearing I removed and the new bearing it was the side with black on the end (F.A.G. bearings). In the image the left side of the bearing goes into the steering knuckle.]



22. Insert the lock ring into the steering knuckle using curved needle nose pliers.
23. Apply a lubricant to the shaft of the drive flange hub and used the press to press it in to steering knuckle.

24. After the drive flange hub is pressed into the steering knuckle reassemble as taken off (follow above tightening torques). Once the axle nut is on use a drift to strike the axle nut on both sides.
Tutorial Tools
  #1  
By lingnoi on 07-28-2013, 12:07 PM
Respect!

This is clearly for professionals only!

Regards,
L
Reply With Quote
  #2  
By isd8266 on 08-06-2013, 03:30 PM
Member reviews
Difficulty [ 1 = Difficult ]
60%60%60%
3
Cost [ 1 = Expensive ]
40%40%40%
2
DIY Clarity [ 1 = Not clear ]
60%60%60%
3
Average 53%
Thanks, it's definitely a pain, but can be done. I had such a hard time due to rust. I imagine without rust it would have taken half the time.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
By JTWCT on 08-26-2013, 08:50 AM
Member reviews
Difficulty [ 1 = Difficult ]
20%20%20%
1
Cost [ 1 = Expensive ]
20%20%20%
1
DIY Clarity [ 1 = Not clear ]
20%20%20%
1
Average 20%
It appears that you kept your original hub and replaced only the wheel bearing. I've seen other replace both the hub and the wheel bearing. Was there a reason why you didn't replace the hub?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
By isd8266 on 08-28-2013, 12:53 PM
Member reviews
Difficulty [ 1 = Difficult ]
60%60%60%
3
Cost [ 1 = Expensive ]
40%40%40%
2
DIY Clarity [ 1 = Not clear ]
60%60%60%
3
Average 53%
Yeah, there was no reason to replace it. The only reason I could see replacing it is if it was already damaged or damaged when you removed it. Last October I went to two different BMW shops to get a quote for the front driver’s side bearing and all they replace is the bearing, lock ring, and axle nut. RWD E90’s have a totally different front bearing that comes in one hub assembly (hub and bearing). Is this what you are talking about? The following link below shows what a e90 RWD hub/bearing looks like.

http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/i...1208555887.png
Reply With Quote
  #5  
By JTWCT on 08-28-2013, 12:57 PM
Member reviews
Difficulty [ 1 = Difficult ]
20%20%20%
1
Cost [ 1 = Expensive ]
20%20%20%
1
DIY Clarity [ 1 = Not clear ]
20%20%20%
1
Average 20%
Awesome, thanks. That's exactly what I'm talking about. I have a 328xi E92 and all I want to replace are the bearing, lock ring, and axle nut.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isd8266 View Post
Yeah, there was no reason to replace it. The only reason I could see replacing it is if it was already damaged or damaged when you removed it. Last October I went to two different BMW shops to get a quote for the front driverís side bearing and all they replace is the bearing, lock ring, and axle nut. RWD E90ís have a totally different front bearing that comes in one hub assembly (hub and bearing). Is this what you are talking about? The following link below shows what a e90 RWD hub/bearing looks like.

http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/i...1208555887.png
Reply With Quote
  #6  
By pifane on 05-20-2014, 09:10 AM
Member reviews
Difficulty [ 1 = Difficult ]
20%20%20%
1
Cost [ 1 = Expensive ]
20%20%20%
1
DIY Clarity [ 1 = Not clear ]
20%20%20%
1
Average 20%
Anyone done the same for the back? Found videos on youtube about E46, but nothing about E90 XDRIVE.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
By isd8266 on 06-12-2014, 09:25 PM
Member reviews
Difficulty [ 1 = Difficult ]
60%60%60%
3
Cost [ 1 = Expensive ]
40%40%40%
2
DIY Clarity [ 1 = Not clear ]
60%60%60%
3
Average 53%
Quote:
Originally Posted by pifane View Post
Anyone done the same for the back? Found videos on youtube about E46, but nothing about E90 XDRIVE.
I was going to since I already had everything I need to do it, but to tell you the truth the job looks like a pain in the ass due to the coil spring. If you haven't done it yet and are still looking to pm me, I have the instructions you'll need.
Reply With Quote
Comment

Bookmarks

Tutorial Tools Search this Tutorial
Search this Tutorial:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:20 PM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST