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      06-04-2010, 09:42 AM   #1
xxxjecxxx
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repaclace window regulator

My window regulator broke and I could not find a DIY. It is not very difficult to replace and you don't need any special tools. This is my first DIY so excuse any mistakes. Follow at your own risk. I am no pro and this is only to be used as a guide.You should read all of it before you start. Hopefully I didn't get my iphone dirty for no reason and this will be useful to someone!

Tools used
knife or flat head
torx screwdriver
monkey wrench or ratchet and sockets
New window regulator ($120 with tax)
(Old motor was used because it was still good)


1. Need to remove the door panel. This involves gently pulling the wood trim from the right to left because the clip is on the left. Removing two torx screws. The door handle (part used to pull the door not to open) also has a cover that holds another torx screw under . that cover is removed by gently pulling from the bottom and working your way towards the top.pretty straight forward.

2. Very gently stick a flat head between the metal and door panel to lift just enough to fit your finger under. Again, very gently pull the door panel on all corners, you will hear the clips coming off. Take your time you are trying to fix something not break anything else.

3.After you remove the door panel here is what it looks like. Use a blade to cut between the foam and the glue, keep in mind you are going to reuse it so be neat.


4. Start by removing the motor. three screws. the clips are circled also, be careful not to break those.



This is why my window would not work, your problem might be similar.


5. Remove the window regulator. remove the three screws that hold the regulator. (Picture is with the new regulator)


6. Now you have to remove the clip that holds the window to the regulator. Be very very careful. You don't want to break the glass. Once you unclip it you can wiggle out the old regulator.If available have someone hold the window just in case while you work.


8. Reverse all the steps to put in the new one. Don't forget to plug in all the cables and door handle cable. Test it out!

Last edited by xxxjecxxx; 04-18-2013 at 04:20 PM. Reason: updated pictures
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      06-04-2010, 09:57 AM   #2
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bravo...

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So let me see if I am correct, you replaced the rear passenger regulator?
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      06-04-2010, 11:52 PM   #3
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Nice write-up, thanks!
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      06-05-2010, 02:14 AM   #4
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yes, it was the rear passenger. Thanks!
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      06-14-2010, 01:18 PM   #5
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Thumbs up great!!!

brothet thanks for thew info

I have the same problem exact same door

do you have the part number for the regulator because i order one and i got the one for the left door

where did u got yours

thanks

joseluisgonzalez17@hotmail.com
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      06-14-2010, 01:24 PM   #6
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I don't have the part number I'll try to look for the paper at home but I got mine directly from BMW dealership for $120. Saw some on eBay for $90 plus shipping. Price different wasn't worth the wait
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      06-14-2010, 11:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxjecxxx View Post
I don't have the part number I'll try to look for the paper at home but I got mine directly from BMW dealership for $120. Saw some on eBay for $90 plus shipping. Price different wasn't worth the wait
i went to the bmw dealer here in jacksonville and they do not sell it separate so they have to install it and they charge 420 dollars and that is extremely expensive, they did not gave me tha part number either

I will appreciate if you can help me with that, thank you
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      06-15-2010, 10:54 AM   #8
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Thank god I haven't cleaned my trunk, paper was still there

Part # for rear passenger
A S51-35-7-140-590 price was $119.96 with tax.

You can buy it from the BMW dealer, not sure why they won't sell it to you. Here is where I got mine

9750 S. Orange Blossom Tr.
Orlando, FL 32837
407-345-1118

Good luck!
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      07-03-2010, 08:37 PM   #9
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Thanks for posting this. It is coming in handy. Mine just failed and I was going to take it to the dealer and have to pay a deductible while taking a chance my extended warranty from Carmax would not cover it. I ordered one from Tischer for 73.00 plus shipping so doing it myself should break close to even with the $100.00 deductible and I like doing things myself when practical. Without your DIY I doubt I would have taken a shot on my own. Finally for those of you with a window stuck in the down position. I cut the wire since it will be replaced with the new regulator. That enabled me to raise my window and tape the top of it to keep it sealed till the new part arrives.

Thanks again,

Tom
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      07-08-2010, 11:26 PM   #10
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I did mine today but I am getting a fault code that says window entrapment alert. I think I have to adjust it because perhaps there is too much resistance due to an alignment problem. I just hope that I don't have to take it to the dealer to get the alert reset. I will do some adjusting this weekend and post the results.
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      07-09-2010, 09:22 AM   #11
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Does the window work while you are getting that code? If I am not mistaken I don't think I had to reset the computer. Car was off (battery was still plugged in) while i was working turned the car back on when I finished and no codes. Double check your cables. keep us posted!
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      07-09-2010, 10:51 PM   #12
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Found the issue on the entrapment code. Basically if the motor feels resistance like in a case of pressure on the edge of the window then it triggers a safety mode. If you get this alert follow the instructions on page 37 and 38 of the manual. It states to get the window all the way up and hold the switch in the up position for 4 seconds. Sure enough this resolved my issue and everything is great.
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      07-12-2010, 05:58 PM   #13
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I just finished this DIY, took me about an hour to do, the total cost $83.00 compared to $450.00 that the dealership wanted for the work! Great DIY post!! Thanks
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      07-23-2010, 01:32 AM   #14
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Great post, thanks. My left driver's side regulator just popped and the dealer quoted my $400 to fix it. I said F that and used your DIY guide to open the door and take out the regulator myself.

It turned out that the problem with mine was that the cable got twisted up inside the plastic spool thing in the motor and jammed it.

When I opened it up the top part of the cable (which raises the window) was not connected to anything, it was just dangling. Is it supposed to be attached to the green plastic clip that holds the window? If so, then it broke off. There was a broken piece of that green plastic thing down inside the door when I opened it.

So as a temporary fix I ghetto-rigged the regulator with zip ties just so I could raise my window and keep it shut, until my new regulator arrives in the mail. Now that I've been through the routine I feel pretty confident installing it myself. Thanks again TS, you saved me a couple hundred bucks!
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      07-23-2010, 02:53 PM   #15
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That green plastic tab you speak of is the flaw that has created the issues. I am getting ready to do a major write up of this issue because I had two fail within 10 days on each side of the car.
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      08-10-2010, 04:42 PM   #16
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Both of my rear windows just failed within 1 month of each other

Quote:
Originally Posted by pruettfan View Post
That green plastic tab you speak of is the flaw that has created the issues. I am getting ready to do a major write up of this issue because I had two fail within 10 days on each side of the car.
I had the same issue. Last month my window regulator broke on the rear passenger window and cost me $600 at the dealership because it conveniently happened a few months after the warranty expired. Yesterday on my way home I heard wind leaking in from my rear driver's side. When I pushed up on the window, SNAP, the exact same sound as the month before. I was considering taking it to a highly rated shop I found that swapped out my RFT for standard radials at a good price. Now thinking about doing it myself.

I would love to see if there was a way to get BMW to cover these costs because this is clearly a product defect.
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      08-10-2010, 05:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_blond View Post
I had the same issue. Last month my window regulator broke on the rear passenger window and cost me $600 at the dealership because it conveniently happened a few months after the warranty expired. Yesterday on my way home I heard wind leaking in from my rear driver's side. When I pushed up on the window, SNAP, the exact same sound as the month before. I was considering taking it to a highly rated shop I found that swapped out my RFT for standard radials at a good price. Now thinking about doing it myself.

I would love to see if there was a way to get BMW to cover these costs because this is clearly a product defect.
$600 is robbery, definitely do it yourself! The part costs about $80 if you buy it online, and it's not hard--it only takes an hour or two to install it if you've never done it before. For the mechanic at the dealer it probably takes like 20 minutes max! They are gouging you big time on the labor.

I got my replacement window regulator from http://www.fcpgroton.com/
Their service was pretty good, unfortunately they sent me the passenger's side one when I ordered the driver's side one, but they sent me the correct part 2-day air free of charge when I pointed out their mistake.

HOWEVER, if you already paid to get your window regulator replaced at the dealer, and then the same part broke AGAIN, it is probably covered and they should be willing to fix it again for free. Call them and ask.
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      08-10-2010, 06:28 PM   #18
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Glad this is saving everyone money. Can we add it to the master DIY list?
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      08-10-2010, 09:21 PM   #19
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I agree with those above. It is way too easy of a job to pay a dealer to do and $400-$500 in labor charges is repulsive. The whole thing is an outrage to me. The fact that it is a clear defect, BMW has not upgraded the replacement parts, BMW has not extended the warranty on this issue and finally the fact that they allow dealers to charge what works out to be about $1500 per hour in labor since, once you know what to do it can be done in 20 mins tops.
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      09-14-2010, 11:41 PM   #20
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Great DIY, mine went out as well, bum green piece, but anyways follow the DIY and everything went smooth...
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      09-15-2010, 07:02 PM   #21
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my left rear side just went out, just as I expected. went to the stealership to buy the new regulator and talking to one of the associates he said that it's almost guaranteed that the rear ones will go out, but the front ones rarely go out.

so once you replace your two rear ones, you should not harry worry about it for another 70K miles?
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      09-17-2010, 10:31 PM   #22
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Nice work!
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