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      01-23-2011, 09:26 PM   #221
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You must have base stereo with a Technic harness? You did not move the MoSt cables to the Technic harness. That solves the latter problems, and might solve the first one - never heard if te first one before, so I'd not chase it til you fix the MOST issue.
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      01-23-2011, 09:39 PM   #222
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Originally Posted by javaperson View Post
This weekend, I put in the MS-8 and a bunch of new speakers on my car with the base system. The system sounds really good when it is working, but I now have several problems:

1) Whether on radio or CD, there is a periodic audible "click" over the speakers that happens every 2 or 3sec. As I increase the volume, this click gets louder. The only time that I don't hear it is if I have no input (e.g. setting aux when there is nothing connected). Has anyone run into the problem? Is it some type of interference issue?

2) Not related to the sound... My bluetooth, BMW assist, and ipod connection don't work. The bluetooth option doesn't even show up in the Menu screen. My ipod is not recognized. BMW assist is shown as not working, although it does connect if I press the button. Is this related to my disconnecting the battery during my work? Or did I knock something loose?

This is frustrating...the music sounds good, but now I have other problems and the clicking sound.
The MOST plug was not transferred from the OEM harness to the new harness as stated in bold in the link that shows the harness (not in this forum); once you do that it will solve both issues.

Use this as a guide to transfer the MOST plug to the harness: http://www.bmwretrofit.com/downloads...Manual_PNP.pdf (used without permission).
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      01-23-2011, 11:25 PM   #223
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Originally Posted by javaperson View Post
This weekend, I put in the MS-8 and a bunch of new speakers on my car with the base system. The system sounds really good when it is working, but I now have several problems:

1) Whether on radio or CD, there is a periodic audible "click" over the speakers that happens every 2 or 3sec. As I increase the volume, this click gets louder. The only time that I don't hear it is if I have no input (e.g. setting aux when there is nothing connected). Has anyone run into the problem? Is it some type of interference issue?

2) Not related to the sound... My bluetooth, BMW assist, and ipod connection don't work. The bluetooth option doesn't even show up in the Menu screen. My ipod is not recognized. BMW assist is shown as not working, although it does connect if I press the button. Is this related to my disconnecting the battery during my work? Or did I knock something loose?

This is frustrating...the music sounds good, but now I have other problems and the clicking sound.
Ok, problem solved. Apparently both issues are related. I took the radio out of the dash and found that I had overlooked the optical cable and had forgotten to transfer from the stock connector to the harness one during the initial install. Anyways, I plugged in the optical cable and the bluetooth, BMW assist, and ipod issues are resolved.

And surprisingly, the clicking sound is gone as well. Not sure how that is caused by the missing optical cable, but issue resolved and I'm not going to complain.
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      01-23-2011, 11:27 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
The MOST plug was not transferred from the OEM harness to the new harness as stated in bold in the link that shows the harness (not in this forum); once you do that it will solve both issues.

Use this as a guide to transfer the MOST plug to the harness: http://www.bmwretrofit.com/downloads...Manual_PNP.pdf (used without permission).
VP E, Technic,
Oops, just saw your posts. I had not refreshed this page and didn't see them. It probably would've saved a bunch of my time.

Anyways, thanks for the quick responses!
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      02-19-2011, 10:09 AM   #225
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I do now feel that certain sections of songs sound very bright to me, and certain frequencies just plain "ring" in my ears at moderate to high volume levels.
Wow, I discovered that somehow my HU was set to "music" which means that L7 was on. With OEM L7 turned off, it now sounds sweet again!

I'm still gonna add those Hybrid Audios though...
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      02-19-2011, 01:31 PM   #226
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Wow, I discovered that somehow my HU was set to "music" which means that L7 was on. With OEM L7 turned off, it now sounds sweet again!

I'm still gonna add those Hybrid Audios though...
On the OEM HK/L7 system, if the L7 is on, doesn't all the music come from the front speakers?
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      02-19-2011, 03:41 PM   #227
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I'm still gonna add those Hybrid Audios though...
I don't see why you don't drop some HAT Pro ring radiators in the OEM locations. RRs want to be on axis, and they will be in our car.
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      02-19-2011, 08:03 PM   #228
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I don't see why you don't drop some HAT Pro ring radiators in the OEM locations. RRs want to be on axis, and they will be in our car.
Sure, as soon as they make some that play down to 150Hz I will!

In the meantime, I'm gonna try to get by with some 3.7" mids that can play from 160Hz - 15,000Hz.
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      02-20-2011, 12:13 AM   #229
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After a lot of reading and forum advice from you guys, I decided to order the MS-8 to enhance the L7. Hoping the install goes smoothly and decision was a good one. Now I just need to hopefully get a harness from Technic. Can't PM yet though...
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      02-21-2011, 07:27 PM   #230
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Has the bluetooth echo issue been resolved?
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      03-17-2011, 03:07 PM   #231
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I noticed something recently that I think might be interesting. The MS-8 is more sensitive to voltage on the line (I assume). Several times when I had the sub turned very high (along with everything else), the MS-8 rebooted. This of course shut down the amps as well. When it came back up the music started again but them rebooted again. This would keep occuring until I turned the base down. After that it was fine.

I was concerned about the power consumption so I connected an ammeter to check and found that The amps were peaking over 100 amps in current draw.

I think the reboot is a good thing as it protects my electrical system from underloading the important stuff. This never happened with the 3Sixty.2, but I'm glad the MS-8 gives me an early warning.

The fact that my sub box is sealed is partly to blame for pulling so much current. My thinking is that as soon as I port the box, the sound in the bass won't be as tight. So I'm weighing the alternatives. Anybody got thoughts on it?
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      03-17-2011, 03:12 PM   #232
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You can't just port a sealed box, willy-nilly. The sub has to be suitable for it and the box has to be exact in size and port dimensions. When done correctly, a ported sub can sound as good or better than a sealed box because of it's extra low end extension and efficiency.

The box will be larger unfortunately.
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      03-17-2011, 03:31 PM   #233
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You can't just port a sealed box, willy-nilly. The sub has to be suitable for it and the box has to be exact in size and port dimensions. When done correctly, a ported sub can sound as good or better than a sealed box because of it's extra low end extension and efficiency.

The box will be larger unfortunately.


True enough. Since the driver is an upgrade from PSI, I don't have the relavent specs to build a proper box. I built this sealed box according to intuition and it really rocks. It goes pretty low (sub 30hz with all that power) but the trade off seems to be the sound that I want or overloading my electrical system.

Sigh, I guess there is always an alternator upgrade and the big 3.

But I should stop while I'm ahead and not hijack the thread. I mainly wanted to point out that the MS-8 will shutoff (probably upon a detection in voltage drop).
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      03-18-2011, 02:54 AM   #234
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then we must be talking about a huge voltage drop. i've seen the MS8 survive through bad battery, engine cranks, etc. with no issues.
do you get one of these DSP system errors on the MS8? Could it be that maybe your bass is so loud that it makes some loose wires create a short?
Anyway, I've had great luck adding a passive radiator to a sealed box in the past. It's worth researching. For me, it allowed lower extension yet I was able to keep the tight response a smaller sealed box would give you. There is a dead spot in the f/r of the box though, at the PR's tuning frequency, but if it's low enough it's no biggie.
I know I don't hear a thing when I play 20Hz, but my RTA goes off the charts and my sub reaches dangerous levels of excursion
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      03-18-2011, 04:04 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeFKnoL View Post
I noticed something recently that I think might be interesting. The MS-8 is more sensitive to voltage on the line (I assume). Several times when I had the sub turned very high (along with everything else), the MS-8 rebooted. This of course shut down the amps as well. When it came back up the music started again but them rebooted again. This would keep occuring until I turned the base down. After that it was fine.

I was concerned about the power consumption so I connected an ammeter to check and found that The amps were peaking over 100 amps in current draw.
Yeah, I have a thought. If you're going to want to draw conclusions about your voltage, why don't you use the meter in "voltmeter" setting?

If your MS-8 has a low voltage, it will probably shut down. But if you have a lousy ground, it may have a lower voltage than the battery does.

When you say you used an ammeter, was it an inductive ammeter? How did you perform the test?

A ported enclosure is A, more efficent to drive, and B, a terrible means of power management.
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      03-18-2011, 05:18 PM   #236
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A ported enclosure is A, more efficent to drive, and B, a terrible means of power management.


To stay on topic....
so after a few weeks without the MS8, I decided to put it back for comparison. I double, triple checked polarity of all my drivers. No matter what I do, midbass is gone. Using the EQ and/or turning up the gains sort of works but it does not sound as clean as without the MS8. My ADMW9's only come to life when the MS8 is far away from the car. Amps are 3 PDX-F6's and 1 PDX-M12 (awesome little amps)
the MS8 is a great device still, and great proof of concept showing that it is possible for a chip to do t/a, etc. infinitely faster than a human, but it just does not sound right to me, and I've had two of them, so it's not the device either.

Hey Ken, I finally got all the components for my other car's system... am going to use the 4 PDX amps, my carputer, SPG-555 sub and Canton QS 3.28 3 way comps. Since fitting the Cantons is going to require some talent which I do not have, and because you are in portland and the car is in socal, how could we do this?
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      03-18-2011, 06:06 PM   #237
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To stay on topic....
Send me an email!
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      03-18-2011, 09:27 PM   #238
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added some L7 tweeters to the rear doors today (thanks Karim!) to have full range sides which will help stretch the stage a bit up front. The coupes already have the tweeters in the rear sides, the sedans do not.
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      03-18-2011, 10:34 PM   #239
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added some L7 tweeters to the rear doors today (thanks Karim!) to have full range sides which will help stretch the stage a bit up front. The coupes already have the tweeters in the rear sides, the sedans do not.
Glad they worked
Pics?
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      03-20-2011, 04:05 PM   #240
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Glad they worked
Pics?


I wish the color match was better but I'll take it!
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      03-21-2011, 08:21 PM   #241
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how will the sound in my car be, if i have a 09 e92 without logic 7, and i bought this jbl ms-8? (i'm a newb btw) I'm just looking for my sound to be more defined and clearer.
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      03-22-2011, 07:37 AM   #242
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how will the sound in my car be, if i have a 09 e92 without logic 7, and i bought this jbl ms-8? (i'm a newb btw) I'm just looking for my sound to be more defined and clearer.
The MS-8 can do only so much with inferior speakers. You can try it but you will probably end up replacing the front door speakers and the underseat woofers, at a minimum. Putting in a center channel with the MS-8 is also highly recommended.
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