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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > diverter valve removal, plastic grey clips



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      12-17-2006, 11:47 AM   #1
Edman951
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diverter valve removal, plastic grey clips

Hey guys,
I'm tring to swap out one of the diverter valves with a HKS valve.
But i can't get the dam plastic grey clips off.
These are bizare clips that they use instead of regulaar hose clamps.

Does anybody know the trick to remove these clips????

Please help.
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      12-17-2006, 11:57 AM   #2
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You will have to twist the connector located on the bottom of the hose.
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      12-17-2006, 12:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edman951
Hey guys,
I'm tring to swap out one of the diverter valves with a HKS valve.
But i can't get the dam plastic grey clips off.
These are bizare clips that they use instead of regulaar hose clamps.

Does anybody know the trick to remove these clips????

Please help.
nice let us know how this goes and the results
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      12-17-2006, 12:12 PM   #4
Edman951
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bob,
Twist unsrew or screw?

I tried that but its hard. and i didnt want to break it.
Thanks
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      12-17-2006, 12:19 PM   #5
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ooo yes i got it.
Thanks alot Bob.

will post result later
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      08-08-2013, 11:22 AM   #6
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Reviving this old one bc I'm trying to remove my valves to install a charge pipe and can't seem to get the technique right... the twist lock connector isn't budging!

Is there a special trick to it our just brute force?
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      08-08-2013, 11:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Reviving this old one bc I'm trying to remove my valves to install a charge pipe and can't seem to get the technique right... the twist lock connector isn't budging!

Is there a special trick to it our just brute force?
They can get very gummy, and tough to remove by hand. I used a simple wrench for grip and toque, and gave it a good twist around the grey locking collar. I did this months ago, but donít recall any issues after that approach. I have no plans to re-use the DVs, but it didnít damage them or anything like that.
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      08-08-2013, 11:37 AM   #8
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So there's no locking clip to unlatch first, while twisting?

Thanks
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      08-08-2013, 11:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Reviving this old one bc I'm trying to remove my valves to install a charge pipe and can't seem to get the technique right... the twist lock connector isn't budging!

Is there a special trick to it our just brute force?
It can take a bit of force sometimes. It sounds dumb, but make sure you are turning them the proper direction.
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      08-08-2013, 11:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
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So there's no locking clip to unlatch first, while twisting?

Thanks
IIRC itsí just that grey collar that unlocks when turned the correct way, I donít remember which way that is though. Just find yourself a bit of mechanical torque/grip and itíll turn without too much trouble.
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      08-08-2013, 11:46 AM   #11
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Ten four. Thanks fellas.
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      08-08-2013, 12:13 PM   #12
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If I remember correctly move it counter cw from top ... becareful not to put too much pressure on the pipe itself .. I had to pay to get DPs removed to push in the rear turbo inlet that came half way out because of strangling while airbox removal ... there are no clamps on the turbo end
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      08-08-2013, 01:09 PM   #13
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Will do it once my car cools off and I get some work done. I think the directions to twist are pretty clear as there is a stop in the twist-lock channel that only would allow the mechanism to go in one direction once locked. Will try some channel locks in a bit and report back!

Thanks all
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      08-09-2013, 12:12 PM   #14
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Be careful with channel locks. These should be able to twist by hand and channel locks may put too much pressure and crack them.

I recall giving them a quick push in and then twisting it to unlock. Sometimes pushing it in helps. (Push in, Push out then try twisting). No homo.
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      08-09-2013, 12:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
Be careful with channel locks. These should be able to twist by hand and channel locks may put too much pressure and crack them.

I recall giving them a quick push in and then twisting it to unlock. Sometimes pushing it in helps. (Push in, Push out then try twisting). No homo.
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      08-09-2013, 12:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
Be careful with channel locks. These should be able to twist by hand and channel locks may put too much pressure and crack them.

I recall giving them a quick push in and then twisting it to unlock. Sometimes pushing it in helps. (Push in, Push out then try twisting). No homo.
Lmao

Yeah, I chose not to use the channel locks and just used bare handed brute force (Hulk MAAD!). Everything worked out just fine and the CP-e/BMS pipe is now in there!

FWIW the installation instructions CP-e provides are a bit overkill. Don't need to remove the diverters entirely to install them on the new pipe. Didn't want to pull the vacuum hose if I didn't have to.

Thanks for the encouragement, fellas
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      03-11-2014, 02:09 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007_e350
If I remember correctly move it counter cw from top ... becareful not to put too much pressure on the pipe itself .. I had to pay to get DPs removed to push in the rear turbo inlet that came half way out because of strangling while airbox removal ... there are no clamps on the turbo end
How did ur turbo sound when this happened? I think i might have the same problem. Did you throw any codes
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