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      07-25-2010, 11:05 AM   #1
mattsten
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Just tweets to base 2010 system?

Guys,
Sorry if this has been addressed, but after searching I could not find a solid answer. I am not unsatisfied with my standard system but would like to add tweeters. If I get the oem pillar pods and add some tweeters with a filter or crossover (any recommendations?) will this be asking too much of the stock hu and blow something? It seems like a little tweeter could not possibly require much power. Thoughts? I have read all about the better options available but really just want to know if I will end up frying the amp in the hu.
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      07-25-2010, 11:36 AM   #2
joelc73
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You won't fry the amp -- but you also won't like the sound...
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      07-25-2010, 12:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelc73 View Post
You won't fry the amp -- but you also won't like the sound...
Please elaborate. I don't see how it could not be at least a mild improvement.
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      07-25-2010, 09:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsten View Post
Please elaborate. I don't see how it could not be at least a mild improvement.
The lack of tweeters is only part of the problem. The lack of bass and power are just as significant in the overall poor performance of that system.

The HU is also pre-EQ'd to "compensate" for the fact that the system is inadequate. Adding tweeters to the hyped up high-end of that system will not get you any closer to good...
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      07-27-2010, 02:57 PM   #5
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I did as you described as just the first part of my overall upgrade. I used Morels all around buying new "Sails" to put the tweeters into. I also put 9" Morels under the seats (required a bit more customization). The rears were done much lke the fronts, I just got a little creative in how I mounted the tweeters in the back.

When using the stock HU to dirve them, the speakers were a bit underdriven but the sound quality was improved enough that some people could have stopped there. I chose to continue with a DSP, Amps and a sub. So If you are willing to take your door panels off and put in the new speakers with a crossover, you most likely will NOT regret it.

As for frying your amp, You may not be able to get away with just adding the tweeters if you wire them in parallel as it would bring down the resistance. Two low of a resistance will probably fry the amp as it is already expecting the low resistance of 2 Ohms per channel. I replaced both the door speaker and the tweeter to ensure that the total resistance of the door speakers was 4 Ohms. Putting that in parallel with the underseat woofer (also 4 Ohms) brought the etire channel down to the expected 2 Ohms. Just make sure that the reisitance is correct and you should be safe.

Last edited by DeFKnoL; 07-27-2010 at 03:03 PM.
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      07-27-2010, 04:45 PM   #6
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OK, gotta offset that with some technical facts.

Speaker's impedance only overlaps to the degree that they play the same notes.

A 4" mechnically rolls off above a certain point, and its impedance correspondingly rises.

A tweeter with a series capacitor also rolls off, BELOW a certain point, and the series capacitor interacts with the impedance of the speaker to create a rising impedance BELOW a certain frequency.

So you can add a tweeter with a series capacitor and it will play fine.

HOWEVER, the treble range comingg out of the 2010 Stereo-coded HU has a HUGE boost in the treble. Most people actually find it annoying as hell.

If you want to try it, I have some inexpensive Rainbow tweeters that will work fine - but I'm not at all confident that you WILL like it, or I'd be pitching these babies to 2010 1 and 3-series owners all the time...
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      07-28-2010, 11:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Speaker's impedance only overlaps to the degree that they play the same notes.
Good point.
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      07-28-2010, 06:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
OK, gotta offset that with some technical facts.

Speaker's impedance only overlaps to the degree that they play the same notes.

A 4" mechnically rolls off above a certain point, and its impedance correspondingly rises.

A tweeter with a series capacitor also rolls off, BELOW a certain point, and the series capacitor interacts with the impedance of the speaker to create a rising impedance BELOW a certain frequency.

So you can add a tweeter with a series capacitor and it will play fine.

HOWEVER, the treble range comingg out of the 2010 Stereo-coded HU has a HUGE boost in the treble. Most people actually find it annoying as hell.

If you want to try it, I have some inexpensive Rainbow tweeters that will work fine - but I'm not at all confident that you WILL like it, or I'd be pitching these babies to 2010 1 and 3-series owners all the time...
VP, your expertise is always appreciated! I have done a lot of searching on some of the forums geared to euros as I know they have had the base system we have in 2010/11 cars in the US for years. Apparently most tweeters sound awful like you describe, but the tweeters from an L7 car sound good, and pnp into the stock door speaker. If I could find a set of used L7 tweeters or you have something that is comparable I would try it out as a guinea pig. I am gathering that the L7 tweeters have a capacitor built into the wiring pigtail. I would let you set me up with a full upgrade but in all honesty I am not all that upset with the stock system, just wanted a little bit more sparkle on the highs.
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      07-29-2010, 11:06 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsten View Post
I would let you set me up with a full upgrade but in all honesty I am not all that upset with the stock system, just wanted a little bit more sparkle on the highs.
If that's all you need, get the L7 tweeters (and maybe the mids since they usually come together when buying used) and get some black grille cloth at Parts Express. If the tweeters are too bright (I think they will be, but regardless), try the old "textile L-pad" trick: cut some grille cloth with scissors and fold a couple thicknesses over, and masking tape it over the tweeter till you get the right amount of attenuation and know how many thicknesses it takes. Then take the door panel back off and attach that cloth behind the grille, but in front of the tweeter (requires temp removal of the grille mesh, you need needlenose pliers).
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