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      05-19-2011, 01:28 PM   #265
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I have the STETT stage II as well- no thermostat though. I live near STETT's HQ and had them install it. My lines fit perfectly. Curious, maybe b/c I don't have the thermo. I did have one issue, on Sunday while daily driving, the gasket on the return line to the oil filter housing let go, spraying and leaking oil quite badly. I was unable to drive the car, and unsure how to proceed. I spoke with Chad (STETT), and he (personally) came out to my house Monday afternoon to make the 15 minute repair. So I guess, I have had a different customer service experience.
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      05-19-2011, 01:34 PM   #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraRacer13 View Post
I have the STETT stage II as well- no thermostat though. I live near STETT's HQ and had them install it. My lines fit perfectly. Curious, maybe b/c I don't have the thermo. I did have one issue, on Sunday while daily driving, the gasket on the return line to the oil filter housing let go, spraying and leaking oil quite badly. I was unable to drive the car, and unsure how to proceed. I spoke with Chad (STETT), and he (personally) came out to my house Monday afternoon to make the 15 minute repair. So I guess, I have had a different customer service experience.
wow... did you have any error lights when that happened? oil pressure low? what warnings did you get to make you check under the hood?
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      05-19-2011, 01:55 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraRacer13 View Post
I have the STETT stage II as well- no thermostat though. I live near STETT's HQ and had them install it. My lines fit perfectly. Curious, maybe b/c I don't have the thermo. I did have one issue, on Sunday while daily driving, the gasket on the return line to the oil filter housing let go, spraying and leaking oil quite badly. I was unable to drive the car, and unsure how to proceed. I spoke with Chad (STETT), and he (personally) came out to my house Monday afternoon to make the 15 minute repair. So I guess, I have had a different customer service experience.
Wow, that's just scary. And although STETT came over to fix it that only worked due to proximity, not applicable to most of us.

Did you get a low-oil warning before you started sliding all over the place?
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      05-19-2011, 01:57 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraRacer13 View Post
I have the STETT stage II as well- no thermostat though. I live near STETT's HQ and had them install it. My lines fit perfectly. Curious, maybe b/c I don't have the thermo. I did have one issue, on Sunday while daily driving, the gasket on the return line to the oil filter housing let go, spraying and leaking oil quite badly. I was unable to drive the car, and unsure how to proceed. I spoke with Chad (STETT), and he (personally) came out to my house Monday afternoon to make the 15 minute repair. So I guess, I have had a different customer service experience.
stett offers the hoses two ways, already put together, at a pre determined length, or they give you the hose and fittings separately and you can make them to your liking, i bet that they do that since its a much better way to ensure fitment
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      05-19-2011, 02:12 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsapphire7 View Post
wow... did you have any error lights when that happened? oil pressure low? what warnings did you get to make you check under the hood?
No- It must have occurred just prior to parking the car at home. I didn't lose enough oil to need to add any really. I'm guessing maybe 1/2 cup - cup. I was actually opening the hood to tweak my AST's and my daughter was like "Daddy- what is all over the engine?"


Did you get a low-oil warning before you started sliding all over the place?[/quote]


Neither issue, in fact not enough to leak all over the floor- it collected in the undercarrriage (and all over the engine.) It was a simple fix, but be sure to check the fitting. When the engine is cool, you can pull the fitting w/o oil leaking. I might suggest using tephlon tape (plumbers tape) to wrap the threads on the fitting to eliminate the need for the gasket at all. I say this b/c Chad obviously can't make it to everyone's house.

FWIW - this is why I bought from local vendors like Cobb/ STETT / AST and Vorshlag. Though obviously this isn't available to everyone, I would suggest buying from a local vendor if their product is even half decent. Local service FTW!
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      05-20-2011, 01:38 AM   #270
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Just a quick question. I am a bit of a do it yourself. Where did you buy the mocool additive? Did you get the distiller water from the grocery store? How did you know how to drain the radiator? Experience or is there a DIY on the site? About how much did it cost? Did you re-use the coolant after the season or get new stuff from the dealer? Did you have to jack up the car to ge at the radiator drain plug? How much is the coolant when you replace it when winter comes? Thanks. I hate that my car overheats everytime I go to the track.

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      05-20-2011, 09:17 AM   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boilerdan33 View Post
Just a quick question. I am a bit of a do it yourself. Where did you buy the mocool additive? Did you get the distiller water from the grocery store? How did you know how to drain the radiator? Experience or is there a DIY on the site? About how much did it cost? Did you re-use the coolant after the season or get new stuff from the dealer? Did you have to jack up the car to ge at the radiator drain plug? How much is the coolant when you replace it when winter comes? Thanks. I hate that my car overheats everytime I go to the track.

AOF
Probably not what you're looking for but, although I'm a DIYer too, when it comes to radiator flushes I cheat. It falls under my "not worth it" category as I can get it done for free plus the drain plug is obstructed by the FMIC. One of the PCA chapters in my area requires an ASE-certified shop tech checkout so I have them fill with distilled/mocool in March and replace with OEM 50/50 mix in October. I supply the fluids and I never re-use them btw. As they know I'll be there a few times a year they offer me the service for free.

As far as the other questions go:

Mocool: My 2 local race gear shops carry it, I think it's in the $15 range per bottle. You'll need 2 bottles. If you can't find it local, try here:
http://stableenergies.com

Distilled: Yes, buy it wherever you find it, it's just distilled water. Grocery stores and pharmacies carry it typically.
Antifreeze mix: Get it from your dealer's parts dept.

Last edited by mid-corner fun; 05-20-2011 at 09:33 AM.
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      05-22-2011, 06:48 PM   #272
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Just came back from a nice Hot session at the autobahn country club. PeterM1, here is my data:

2007 335I auto No tune. AR design oil cooler retrofit only(No OEM) 30/70 Non-OEM Coolant(Total Auto Supra)+ GuNk Liquid Cool (water wetter).
Track: Autobahn country club Joliet, IL-South Track
Lap Times: 1:45-1:55
Skill Level: Upper intermedate/Lower advanced Grp 2 (groups= 1-5)

1st Session:
Temp: 72F Humidity: 60%
Heater on 78, but turned to Max 1/2 way through course
Oil: 255F
Water: 93-98C (203F-208.4F)

2nd Session
Temp: 78F Humidity: 60%
Heater on Max
Oil: 260F
Water: 91-95C (195-203F)

3rd Session
Temp: 80F Humidity: 60%
Heater on Max
Oil: 270F
Water: 93-100C (203F-212F)
Reduced Power just b4 last lap- No limp

4th Session
Temp: 86F Humidity: 60%
Heater off
Oil: 270F
Water: 101-106C (213-222F)
Reduced Power x 3= 3 pit outs No limp

Last edited by Turkeybaster115; 05-22-2011 at 10:03 PM.
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      05-22-2011, 07:03 PM   #273
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A word on reading oil temps from OEM gauges. I met a cool dude (Klammer) from the M3Post forums, and he took me out for a ride on his car (2011 M3 Sedan)! Awesome car, MUCH faster than my car, but you do notice the lack of low end torque I rode with him later in the day, when the ambient temps were 86F. His car didn't have a reduced power mode, or seem to suffer as much as mine from high temps, but after the 3rd lap, the car spuddered a lot, and had Noticeably reduced power. The OEM in car oil temp guage read 270F Max:

However the guages installed by IND, read:


Oil= 290F
Water= 220F
Oil Pressure= 65

I'm just wondering how good OEM in-car temp guages are. Our cars are programmed to prepare for "Limp" Mode at 290F, but our cars throw the engine reduced signal when our oil starts to go to 270F by the in-car guage. Just wondering if they are generally off, depending on where they are taking their measurement. Maybe at 270F in our cars, the actual oil temp is more like 290F, with a 20 degree difference just like in his M3? Hack?

Last edited by Turkeybaster115; 05-22-2011 at 07:12 PM.
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      05-22-2011, 10:14 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 View Post
Just came back from a nice Hot session at the autobahn country club. PeterM1, here is my data:

2007 335I auto No tune. AR design oil cooler retrofit only(No OEM) 30/70 Non-OEM Coolant(Total Auto Supra)+ GuNk Liquid Cool (water wetter).
Track: Autobahn country club Joliet, IL-South Track
Lap Times: 1:45-1:55
Skill Level: Upper intermedate/Lower advanced Grp 2 (groups= 1-5)

1st Session:
Temp: 72F Humidity: 60%
Heater on 78, but turned to Max 1/2 way through course
Oil: 255F
Water: 93-98C (203F-208.4F)

2nd Session
Temp: 78F Humidity: 60%
Heater on Max
Oil: 260F
Water: 91-95C (195-203F)

3rd Session
Temp: 80F Humidity: 60%
Heater on Max
Oil: 270F
Water: 93-100C (203F-212F)
Reduced Power just b4 last lap- No limp

4th Session
Temp: 86F Humidity: 60%
Heater off
Oil: 270F
Water: 101-106C (213-222F)
Reduced Power x 3= 3 pit outs No limp
Good stuff, chart updated.

I'm wondering why you, orionredwing and Martin are not getting limp modes after losing power. In my case last year, pre-OC, it was a matter of 30 secs at most between power loss and limp mode. The vast majority of times it was an "engine malfunction, reduced power" error but once or twice I saw a red thermometer on the screen with a warning of critical temperature reached.

Is this typical in your runs? (power loss/no limp mode)

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      05-22-2011, 10:29 PM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
Good stuff, chart updated.

I'm wondering why you, orionredwing and Martin are not getting limp modes after losing power. In my case last year, pre-OC, it was a matter of 30 secs at most between power loss and limp mode. The vast majority of times it was an "engine malfunction, reduced power" error but once or twice I saw a red thermometer on the screen with a warning of critical temperature reached.

Is this typical in your runs? (power loss/no limp mode)
Yes, I've never had an actual limp mode (red thermometer). All I've ever had is engine malfunction, reduced power, with like about 50% power left. Always at 270 Degrees. I've gotten as high as 290F, when I didn't have any oil cooler, but I've never seen the thermometer. The car performed best with the AR oil cooler, diluted coolant and additve, heater on from the beginning+<78 degrees F Ambient. You guys with STETT or ER, have yet to prove to me that those oil coolers can keep this car below 270 degrees in 80F+ weather. I mean REAL heat, and humidity, like I experienced today.
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      05-22-2011, 10:43 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 View Post
Yes, I've never had an actual limp mode (red thermometer). All I've ever had is engine malfunction, reduced power, with like about 50% power left. Always at 270 Degrees. I've gotten as high as 290F, when I didn't have any oil cooler, but I've never seen the thermometer. The car performed best with the AR oil cooler, diluted coolant and additve, heater on from the beginning+<78 degrees F Ambient. You guys with STETT or ER, have yet to prove to me that those oil coolers can keep this car below 270 degrees in 80F+ weather. I mean REAL heat, and humidity, like I experienced today.
Engine malfunction always generates a 3100 ECU code, counts as limp mode AFAIK.
We're making progress on OC performance, by end of this summer we should have data on all OCs in 80F+ weather.
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      05-23-2011, 09:57 AM   #277
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great thread going here guys. i've only had one temp-induced limp mode so far, but this is really good reading either way. more often than not i run my car stock (in B group), but i'll still take a few notes at my next track day...could be some good comparison since we still have the same engine
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      05-23-2011, 05:40 PM   #278
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Was at our local track here (high plains raceway) doing HPDE last weekend. Limped (50% reduced power, half engine yellow) on two separate sessions, and got a reduced power but no limp on one...Automatic.

So what I generally see on this thread with the AT's is that its usually water temp related rather than oil temp, which is consistent with what I was seeing at the track. Oil temps were ranging in the 270-290 range, so not quite enough to limp. Guess I will try the heater and maybe get a water temp gauge next time before investing in other cooling mods...
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      05-23-2011, 06:06 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceyBMW View Post
So what I generally see on this thread with the AT's is that its usually water temp related rather than oil temp, which is consistent with what I was seeing at the track.
Stock oil cooler? Note that virtually all (except one) reports above are for cars with upgraded oil coolers. At that point, yes, water temps are the main focus

Quote:
Originally Posted by raceyBMW View Post
Oil temps were ranging in the 270-290 range, so not quite enough to limp. Guess I will try the heater and maybe get a water temp gauge next time before investing in other cooling mods.
At 290F you're already at reduced power even if you don't see an engine malfunction error. Get your water temps next time (with and without heater on) you're out there so we can add more good data to the chart.
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      05-23-2011, 06:07 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceyBMW View Post
Was at our local track here (high plains raceway) doing HPDE last weekend. Limped (50% reduced power, half engine yellow) on two separate sessions, and got a reduced power but no limp on one...Automatic.

So what I generally see on this thread with the AT's is that its usually water temp related rather than oil temp, which is consistent with what I was seeing at the track. Oil temps were ranging in the 270-290 range, so not quite enough to limp. Guess I will try the heater and maybe get a water temp gauge next time before investing in other cooling mods...
Search this thread. I posted on how to read water temps from the car. Don't waste your money.
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      05-24-2011, 12:29 AM   #281
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TurkeyBaster,

I was wondering where you got the mix for your radiator? Did you do it yourself, or have it done someplace locally? I was going to try it out soon, and have had pretty good luck with Midwest Eurosport and Fallline motorsport. I'm in south Chicago and don't mind dropping a few dimes.

Dan
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      05-24-2011, 09:17 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boilerdan33 View Post
TurkeyBaster,

I was wondering where you got the mix for your radiator? Did you do it yourself, or have it done someplace locally? I was going to try it out soon, and have had pretty good luck with Midwest Eurosport and Fallline motorsport. I'm in south Chicago and don't mind dropping a few dimes.

Dan
Call Either one and ask them if they can get Mocool or Water Wetter and tell them you want a radiator flush and distilled water with Mocool or Water Wetter to replace the coolant.

Since you live near Chicago you can't keep that mixture in year round due to freezing temps.
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      05-24-2011, 09:21 AM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boilerdan33 View Post
TurkeyBaster,

I was wondering where you got the mix for your radiator? Did you do it yourself, or have it done someplace locally? I was going to try it out soon, and have had pretty good luck with Midwest Eurosport and Fallline motorsport. I'm in south Chicago and don't mind dropping a few dimes.

Dan
I ordered the coolant online, and bought the gunk liquid cool water wetter at autozone. I also bought prestone radiator flush, and flushed the entire cooling system first. I got my work done at Dubwerks in libertyville.
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      05-24-2011, 10:08 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 View Post
Yes, I've never had an actual limp mode (red thermometer). All I've ever had is engine malfunction, reduced power, with like about 50% power left. Always at 270 Degrees. I've gotten as high as 290F, when I didn't have any oil cooler, but I've never seen the thermometer. The car performed best with the AR oil cooler, diluted coolant and additve, heater on from the beginning+<78 degrees F Ambient. You guys with STETT or ER, have yet to prove to me that those oil coolers can keep this car below 270 degrees in 80F+ weather. I mean REAL heat, and humidity, like I experienced today.
Well on 6/6 I am headed out to MSR again here in DFW. We are running the 3.1 setup, not many long straights. In June, this will be an excellent test! In fact I am quite concerned. I will go with Mocool/ distilled for the first time. We will see what the Stett will do!
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      05-24-2011, 11:15 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraRacer13 View Post
Well on 6/6 I am headed out to MSR again here in DFW. We are running the 3.1 setup, not many long straights. In June, this will be an excellent test! In fact I am quite concerned. I will go with Mocool/ distilled for the first time. We will see what the Stett will do!
It'll be a good test, let's see if STETT+distilled+Mocool will be enough in 80/90F weather. So far we haven't broken 250F at the track with STETT but that's with low ambient temps and water temps are still not that far off from reducing power. My next event is 6/11-12, temps should be in the 80s, we'll see how it goes.
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      05-24-2011, 01:32 PM   #286
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I posted this in the N54 section, but I guess it goes here...

I have followed with great interest the cooling issues of these cars. I can tell you that I "know somebody" (ahem) who instructs for PCA and BMWCCA and drives his 335i in stock configuration (manual, zhp with stock oil cooler) on a track quite often. Not once has the car experienced a temperature related limp mode (has limped for injectors, also for vanos solenoid).

This "individual" was able to do a 55 minute session at Mid Ohio (until he ran out of gas) in 70 degree ambient without any limps or temperature issues at all. All the while turning reliable 1:45s.

Is this a problem that has just not been experienced yet? Wouldn't a temperature fault result in the temperature icon, or does it just go into reduced power mode?

Thanks for your feedback, as I am not trying to troll, but want to understand what the difference must be, or how the "individual" I am speaking of has garnered the grace of (insert religious reference of your choosing, I will go with Vishnu) to avoid these issues thus far.

-Tom
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