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      06-27-2011, 11:48 AM   #463
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Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux View Post
Just a small note on this: Since a few weeks, I'm running (i) the AR Design oil cooler (sitting in front of the water radiator) and (ii) an upgraded VK Motorwerks oil cooler with a Setrab core as replacement of the stock oil cooler.

I have two track events scheduled in the next months, the first being on the 18th of July on the Nürburgring. As my car's having issues right now (probably injectors...), I hope it'll be fixed until then so that I can do some datalogging.

What I can already say is that when driving very fast - i.e. upwards of 250 km/h - the oil temperature barely goes beyond 120 degrees Celsius, where before (i.e. with only the AR Design oil cooler plus the stock oil cooler) it rose quickly to 130 degrees and beyond.

Alpina_B3_Lux
I wonder if this might point to question the effectiveness of the OC in front of your radiator...

Just a thought.
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      06-27-2011, 12:32 PM   #464
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Looking at Peter's chart, the 2 guys with AR oil coolers both had reduced power issues too.
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      06-27-2011, 12:38 PM   #465
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I guess what I'm getting at is maybe the AR is unnecessary after replacing the factory core with the setrab setup noted above
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      06-27-2011, 01:02 PM   #466
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Just looking at the data points, but without my own testing, I would agree... I'd invest the time and money into a cooler in the fender well instead.
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      06-27-2011, 01:23 PM   #467
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I caved...it's done. 1st post updated with this info. Now start pointing out all the incorrect info I provided
Wow, HUGE thumbs up! Didn't check thread all weekend, and came back to a nice surprise. Very nicely summarized.


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An Adue

Now that I finally found great solutions for tracking my 335 AT it is now officially retired from track duty.

I never put a tune on my car but I wish I had just for the last 3 track days I did where the cooling issues were finally resolved. I would have loved to have a go at sub 1:45 at Laguna and sub 1:55 at Infineon. It's fun to make people scratch their heads.

Drive the hell out of your 335 and I look forward to being passed by you guys when I'm in my M3.
What?!?! You had to let your 335i go?? Aw man, really sorry to hear, and sorry we couldn't get together for 1 more track day. I would've let you borrow my PROcede. I've gotten so fast, I could've had it installed in your car in 15 mins flat! Would've been great to see what you could do with another 80-100whp


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Looking at Peter's chart, the 2 guys with AR oil coolers both had reduced power issues too.
I'm one of the guys who lost power running AR. But please note that TurkeyBaster115 made it work. I'll give his (also suggested by others) suggestion a try....for my next radiator flush, switching to 20% coolant / 80% water + 2 bottles MoCool. Will report back after my next track day....currently unscheduled

Decided not to go 100% water as I wanted a little rust protection. Also, I'm in California, so I won't be doing a winter flush. Seems like a good compromise. I'm going w/ 2 bottles instead of 1 due to feedback from jbass and others earlier in this thread. Seems like 2 bottles work better than 1.
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      06-27-2011, 02:02 PM   #468
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Looking at Peter's chart, the 2 guys with AR oil coolers both had reduced power issues too.
You have to check the codes, to see what caused the reduced power issues. Mine were due to HPFP, and vanos solenoids. Oil temps never went over 270 even in 86 degrees+ humidity. Remember, I don't even have the additional OEM oil cooler. Also note that directly in front of the radiator, is usually the spot where most folks have historically mounted their oil coolers. Just look at all the Aftermarket 370Z oil coolers. Even the stillen one mounts in front of the radiator .
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      06-27-2011, 02:05 PM   #469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orionredwing View Post
I'm one of the guys who lost power running AR. But please note that TurkeyBaster115 made it work. I'll give his (also suggested by others) suggestion a try....for my next radiator flush, switching to 20% coolant / 80% water + 2 bottles MoCool. Will report back after my next track day....currently unscheduled
While your at that, its a good idea to use a cooling system flush (prestone/Peak), to flush out all the hot spots, first. Also run with the heater on max from the start. With proceed though, you might not get too far with the added boost.
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      06-27-2011, 03:26 PM   #470
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What?!?! You had to let your 335i go?? Aw man, really sorry to hear, and sorry we couldn't get together for 1 more track day. I would've let you borrow my PROcede. I've gotten so fast, I could've had it installed in your car in 15 mins flat! Would've been great to see what you could do with another 80-100whp
I'm keeping it but it's now a DD instead of double duty. I'm sure I'll see you at the track soon. I'm not quitting. Just a different car.

An extra 80-100 WHP would have been great. Let's bench race for fun and since I did 1:47 at Laguna what would the extra HP potentially give me assuming my ability stayed at the same level? Say something REALLY LOW so I can feel really good when I'm doing 1:52s in the new car Cheers orionredwing. I'll still be adding my opinion here and will be missing my 335 at the track.
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      06-27-2011, 04:20 PM   #471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 View Post
You have to check the codes, to see what caused the reduced power issues. Mine were due to HPFP, and vanos solenoids. Oil temps never went over 270 even in 86 degrees+ humidity. Remember, I don't even have the additional OEM oil cooler. Also note that directly in front of the radiator, is usually the spot where most folks have historically mounted their oil coolers. Just look at all the Aftermarket 370Z oil coolers. Even the stillen one mounts in front of the radiator .
Ah good point on what caused the issues.

I don't think in front of the radiator is a bad location per se, it may just be that the oil cooler or distribution block from AR doesn't work as well as a setrab core. On previous cars I've ran oil / trans coolers in front of the radiator as well, which is pretty standard fare I think.
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      06-27-2011, 11:07 PM   #472
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Hey all,

Going to Infineon Saturday and have a few questions...

1) I haven't found MoCool anywhere local. I know Amazon carries it but I waited too long to order through them. Where do you pick it up normally? How about Water Wetter?

2) What is the radiator capacity? I want to know before I run my Distilled Water / Mocool mix.

3) I haven't seen any DIY on a radiator flush. So, I'm thinking about using my Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator (link below). Do you think I can access the fluid through the reservoir? If not, how else do I flush it?

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-F...9233290&sr=1-2


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      06-28-2011, 01:13 AM   #473
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NAPA carries water wetter.

I have the same fluid extractor but I don't think it'll get much fluid out. You have to drop the intercooler to get to the drain peacock. I'd probably just disconnect the radiator hose and make a mess and get most of the coolant out and refill with distilled. Should be a pretty low coolant mix by then.
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      06-28-2011, 01:46 AM   #474
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Another off the wall idea:

Use the headlight windshield washer to cool the oil cooler and radiator? If there was a way to remove them from the bumper (useless for me anyway) and mount one towards the oil cooler and the other towards the radiator. Then just figure out the wiring to set them to "hot" and mount a momentary switch in the cabin to activate them. I'd think this bypasses the wipers too and would just activate the headlight washers.

You'd have to switch the windshield washer fluid to water only of course. And coating the track with water isn't a good call, but a quick squirt on a back straight wouldn't even put water on the ground I think - it would mist and evaporate so quickly on the fins that nothing gets on the ground.

If anything, when coming out of the track hot, you can get the car cooled down quickly.
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      06-28-2011, 02:27 AM   #475
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About the AR oilcooler: does it run in series or parallel with the stock OC? If it is run parallel, that could explain its relative ineficiency, as only a part of the oil would run through it, where the other part runs through the small stock OC.

I get my Evolution Racewerks Sports Series cooler, which replaces the stock core on the passenger side, installed in two weeks and I'll instruct my shop that I want to run the two OCs in series: engine => ER OC => AR OC => engine.

Hopefully that should improve things alot.
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      06-28-2011, 03:12 AM   #476
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Quote:
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I don't think in front of the radiator is a bad location per se, it may just be that the oil cooler or distribution block from AR doesn't work as well as a setrab core. On previous cars I've ran oil / trans coolers in front of the radiator as well, which is pretty standard fare I think.
Could be. I was not able to test out how the car runs without the AR oil cooler and only the upgraded stock oil cooler, as I didn't want to remove the AR cooler.

However, it may very well be that it is more efficient to upgrade the stock oil cooler instead of mounting the additional AR one. I did see an improvement with the AR oil cooler, though, but it was not substantial enough for me and the oil temps were still going up further than I liked.

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      06-28-2011, 03:28 AM   #477
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Psstt... guys without stock oil coolers... Turner Motorsports has a brand new N54 oil filter housing with oil cooler hook ups for $300 in their used parts section.
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      06-28-2011, 06:27 AM   #478
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Psstt... guys without stock oil coolers... Turner Motorsports has a brand new N54 oil filter housing with oil cooler hook ups for $300 in their used parts section.
unless its gone already the only one there is for an e9x M3 and it looks like its different
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      06-28-2011, 08:26 AM   #479
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1. Typically local race gear shops carry it, both shops near my loc always have it in stock (~$15 per bottle)

2. I buy 4 x 1Gallon jugs of distilled water, more than enough.

3. I'd be interested to see if that works. Like Chowbow said you need to drop the FMIC to get to the drain but there has to be another place to tap in (other than the small reservoir line), I'll have a look at realoem later today.


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Hey all,

Going to Infineon Saturday and have a few questions...

1) I haven't found MoCool anywhere local. I know Amazon carries it but I waited too long to order through them. Where do you pick it up normally? How about Water Wetter?

2) What is the radiator capacity? I want to know before I run my Distilled Water / Mocool mix.

3) I haven't seen any DIY on a radiator flush. So, I'm thinking about using my Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator (link below). Do you think I can access the fluid through the reservoir? If not, how else do I flush it?

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-F...9233290&sr=1-2


PS, Peter rocks!
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      06-28-2011, 12:05 PM   #480
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Don't mean to start a coolant additive war or nothing, but ANY water wetter will basically do the same thing: Redline, royal purple, motul, gunk,....etc. So many brands. Just check your local pepboys or autozone. All will temporarily increase the surface tension of water.
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      06-28-2011, 01:34 PM   #481
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unless its gone already the only one there is for an e9x M3 and it looks like its different
Hmm... maybe it was my imagination. Although cross checking part #s on realoem.com it looks like the same parts.
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      06-28-2011, 01:48 PM   #482
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So, for those of you that run 50/50 plus Water Wetter, are you just adding 1 or 2 bottles to your mix and calling it a day?

Here is the radiator. I have an AT. Is #3 accessible from below? Can it be done without removing the FMIC? I just switched to ETS and really don't feel like pulling it out again.
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      06-28-2011, 02:16 PM   #483
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If you're not changing the 50/50 mix you can surely just suck some fluid out of the reservoir and add in a bottle of WW. You'll need to drain the system to do a 100% distilled water setup though. Although I'm not sure if there's a drain on the block, I don't recall ever seeing one on the N54.
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      06-28-2011, 02:49 PM   #484
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Here is the radiator. I have an AT. Is #3 accessible from below? Can it be done without removing the FMIC? I just switched to ETS and really don't feel like pulling it out again.
Sorry, #3 (blue/yellow plug) is obstructed by the ETS FMIC...I have the same setup.
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