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      07-10-2012, 01:35 PM   #837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grennx View Post
Now you mention DTC - is it possible my LM was wheel-spin related? Has this happened to you going over the hill at Lime Rock?
I missed this post, no issue with limp modes while airborne at the uphill and/or landing after it.
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      07-10-2012, 01:41 PM   #838
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Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
I missed this post, no issue with limp modes while airborne at the uphill and/or landing after it.
I wonder if these trac codes are e-diff related?

I was considering getting my e-diff coded out; saw a few threads mentioning it. Once I have my LSD in, of course.
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      07-10-2012, 01:44 PM   #839
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Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
you got it covered

Also, no need for a BBK if you invest in a good rotor/pad setup. My only advice is to have a way to read/reset codes (via BT or tune etc) while at the track so you don't lose track time.
I plan on aggressively pursuing a single turbo probably over the winter so that I can run 13-15psi on the track and have 450-ish whp. I figure I'll need the BBK eventually so rather than mess with it, just go ahead and get it over with. Should be overkill at first, of course.

My thought is that with the single turbo at 15psi, with the low backpressure the engine will actually retain less heat than with the stock turbos at 15psi, despite making considerably more power.

I'll report in when I get there.

Edit: I do have a procede so I can read/clear/suppress codes.
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      07-10-2012, 02:04 PM   #840
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Originally Posted by DallasBoosted View Post
I wonder if these trac codes are e-diff related?

I was considering getting my e-diff coded out; saw a few threads mentioning it. Once I have my LSD in, of course.
Could very well be the case, there are no error logs anywhere that I can find (despite the obvious engine malfunction display and the immediate power cutoff ) to confirm this but it's an interesting approach, let us know how it goes!
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      07-10-2012, 08:45 PM   #841
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Hey guys, I'm targeting my first track day in November (haha heat gremlins, eat cool air), and I'm trying to get together my reliability/trackworthy mods before I go. So far here's what I'm doing:

1> Stett Stg 2 oil cooler (my car is a 2008 E92 335 with no oil cooler)

2> Wavetrac LSD + powerflex subframe bushings + eibach/hotchkiss swaybars (figure I'll do the swaybars since I'll have the subframe out) -- any suggestions on swaybar selection?

3> Racing brake caliper/rotor upgrade in the front or a stoptech front kit; haven't been completely sold on either yet.

I realize some of this is overkill but I'm an experienced racer (raced motorcycles in the 90's, had a mkiv supra TT and a C5 Z06, sold in '06) so I want the car to hold together and I plan on doing more mods later.

Anything else you can think of besides the usual flush/fill with 80/20 water coolant/wetter/40w oil/flush brakes fill with motul 600/etc ?

I know there's nothing I can do if my VANOS craps out at the track besides replace it afterwards, but I'm trying to knock down the pins I can.

Thanks
I would add a AR catless DP, new 1M WP, T-stat, and 335IS radiator fan if you are in the mood to make sure (as best as possible) that your car is up to the heat challenge. Some of these may be overkill or do little to change heat (like DP) but every little bit helps. Last thing to consider is running with the heater or defrost on and even engine cover and cowl off while at the track. Everything else I think you got covered.
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      07-10-2012, 09:08 PM   #842
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I would add a AR catless DP, new 1M WP, T-stat, and 335IS radiator fan if you are in the mood to make sure (as best as possible) that your car is up to the heat challenge. Some of these may be overkill or do little to change heat (like DP) but every little bit helps. Last thing to consider is running with the heater or defrost on and even engine cover and cowl off while at the track. Everything else I think you got covered.
I actually don't see many people with manual transmission water temp problems. If there are some, they aren't reporting in. And I don't want to do a DP since the DP's seem to be included in the single turbo kits.

Besides - I just checked on penskeparts and the 1M tstat and water pump are the same part #'s as the E92 335i, and the 335is radiator fan is 850w v. 600w, but the fans aren't going to help when you are out on the track anyway - they're going to help at lower speeds. I don't know what the crossover speed is where the fan helps instead of obstructs flow, but I'm going to imagine it's low. Besides, that fan is $800.

Last edited by DallasBoosted; 07-10-2012 at 09:57 PM.
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      07-10-2012, 10:29 PM   #843
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I actually don't see many people with manual transmission water temp problems. If there are some, they aren't reporting in. And I don't want to do a DP since the DP's seem to be included in the single turbo kits.

Besides - I just checked on penskeparts and the 1M tstat and water pump are the same part #'s as the E92 335i, and the 335is radiator fan is 850w v. 600w, but the fans aren't going to help when you are out on the track anyway - they're going to help at lower speeds. I don't know what the crossover speed is where the fan helps instead of obstructs flow, but I'm going to imagine it's low. Besides, that fan is $800.
True. I have an AT so its more important for me. I agree the WP and T-stat are the same but my car was acting up so i changed it. As for the fan, well I got a good deal of $359 as a clearance sale so I couldn't pass it up. I just got it back from the shop today and obviously the fan is best for low speed but that is where people will mostly go into limp from heat...as they slow from a straight to go into a series of slower turns. I did notice the water temps rapidly changing from 109 to 99 in a matter of about 1-2 minutes while waiting for a light to change and as the fan cut on. Either way it sounds like you got most of the stuff covered. Being AT I am just trying to cover all my bases. We'll see how she holds up Saturday
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      07-12-2012, 10:52 AM   #844
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Quick update on the weird limp mode world that our cars belong to:

Despite pushing the car more than ever this year, including running with the TT crowd and advanced groups in PCA, SCDA, NASA, trackdaze etc, I've had ZERO temp-related limp modes so far. I've only had reproducible traction-related limp modes under specific track conditions. So what changed?

- I threw out the DCI, I'm alternating between a stock airbox and the Mr.5 offshoot on all runs.
- I'm running 3 bottles of Motul and distilled water in a new (OEM) radiator. The old radiator had accumulated a lot of dirt/sludge on the front side, not sure how/if that affected it's cooling capacity.
- Oil temps are consistently up by 20F (to 270F) this year with the STETT stgII kit, I attribute that to more aggressive track driving.
- I dropped the 4th gear shift to about 5800rpm, no cooldown laps during a session.

So far so good!
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      07-12-2012, 11:28 AM   #845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
Quick update on the weird limp mode world that our cars belong to:

Despite pushing the car more than ever this year, including running with the TT crowd and advanced groups in PCA, SCDA, NASA, trackdaze etc, I've had ZERO temp-related limp modes so far. I've only had reproducible traction-related limp modes under specific track conditions. So what changed?

- I threw out the DCI, I'm alternating between a stock airbox and the Mr.5 offshoot on all runs.
- I'm running 3 bottles of Motul and distilled water in a new (OEM) radiator. The old radiator had accumulated a lot of dirt/sludge on the front side, not sure how/if that affected it's cooling capacity.
- Oil temps are consistently up by 20F (to 270F) this year with the STETT stgII kit, I attribute that to more aggressive track driving.
- I dropped the 4th gear shift to about 5800rpm, no cooldown laps during a session.

So far so good!
What power-related mods are you running?
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      07-12-2012, 01:25 PM   #846
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Just a tune. I start at 14psi and stay there as long as the weather is <85F. I drop to 13psi for warmer weather and for sessions longer than 20mins.
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      07-27-2012, 09:20 AM   #847
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Peter- I too have the Stett stg 2, etc. I have zero limp issues as well, but I also run the stock airbox at the track. I really think it makes a difference. Maybe if i had a vented hood the DCI would be good, but I don't need the little power bump. I run the COBB AP on 93 oct aggressive without issue. I do not usually go to redline though.
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      07-29-2012, 01:20 AM   #848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
Quick update on the weird limp mode world that our cars belong to:

- I threw out the DCI, I'm alternating between a stock airbox and the Mr.5 offshoot on all runs.
- I'm running 3 bottles of Motul and distilled water in a new (OEM) radiator. The old radiator had accumulated a lot of dirt/sludge on the front side, not sure how/if that affected it's cooling capacity.
- Oil temps are consistently up by 20F (to 270F) this year with the STETT stgII kit, I attribute that to more aggressive track driving.
- I dropped the 4th gear shift to about 5800rpm, no cooldown laps during a session.

So far so good!
My update peter:
This year I have done 3 events so far. before my last event I added Catless Downpipes, and FMIC. Great improvement in oil temps:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721579

However, now I have water temp issues. I know, I know, I should use diluted water, and water wetter. I believe I was the first one on here to do that. After my water pump died, albeit at 84K miles, I've been hesitant to do this, so my water pump doesn't fail again for lack of lubrication. So I might do a new radiator and fan, since I'm at 96K miles.

I ended up hosing down my front radiator with a few blasts of water, and that cooled things down tremendously. It all dries in between sessions, so no danger of getting water on the track. Prior to this I was spraying my oil coolers with a water/alcohol mix from a squirt bottle. That helped a ton with oil temps, but when the water temp issues hit, I had to hose her down, which killed all high temps.
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      08-25-2012, 01:23 PM   #849
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Here are my latest experiences:

Last weekend, I've driven two 335i's on a trackday in hot summer heat (85░F):

- my own 6AT car equipped with ER Sports OC, AR Design OC in front of the radiator and PPK radiator.

- a friend's 6MT car with upgraded OC.

Same tune, similar suspension mods, same day, same track.

I managed to overheat my car within two hard laps, water temps going above 240░ and power completely cut by the ECU.

In the 6MT the car could be pushed no problem for a 30 minutes session.

So this made it clear for me that the real culprit is the heat exchanger in the radiator: the 3 lowest rows are used by the transmission oil which exchanges the heat with the engine coolant. This is fine when the engine is cold as it helps to get coolant temps up quicker, but on the track it becomes a handicap where the hot tranny oil simply heats up the coolant even more.

What we need is an external tranny cooler to keep both circuits separated.
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      08-25-2012, 08:36 PM   #850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobahn335i View Post
Here are my latest experiences:

Last weekend, I've driven two 335i's on a trackday in hot summer heat (85░F):

- my own 6AT car equipped with ER Sports OC, AR Design OC in front of the radiator and PPK radiator.

- a friend's 6MT car with upgraded OC.

Same tune, similar suspension mods, same day, same track.

I managed to overheat my car within two hard laps, water temps going above 240░ and power completely cut by the ECU.

In the 6MT the car could be pushed no problem for a 30 minutes session.

So this made it clear for me that the real culprit is the heat exchanger in the radiator: the 3 lowest rows are used by the transmission oil which exchanges the heat with the engine coolant. This is fine when the engine is cold as it helps to get coolant temps up quicker, but on the track it becomes a handicap where the hot tranny oil simply heats up the coolant even more.

What we need is an external tranny cooler to keep both circuits separated.
Read my post above. With our mods we are simply at the maximum heat capacity for our vehicles (heat in-heat out). In your vehicle for instance an extra 1/2 liter of fluid circulating through a core, be it via a larger radiator, or trans cooler, will only buy some more time. Of late I have been making it just fine through hot track days (85F or above), by simply hosing down the radiator with water. Spraying it with water for 5-10mins, then leaving the vehicle to dry in between sessions, eliminates, the heat that accumulates in the radiator. (This is an idea, I borrowed and modified from TheHack)

Another thing to keep in mind is that our cars are aging, and gunk (insects, road debris) is getting stuck and baked onto our radiators, creating numerous hot spots. I will soon replace my OEM radiator, with a new one, and this should really help bring down water temps, which are now a problem.

Lastly, if you want to do a stand alone trans oil cooler, then go ahead. It's just better to tap into the lines going to and from the heat exchanger, instead of eliminating it entirely. This way, you won't affect transmission warm up time during the winter months. Also, PM AdamWay on this site. He is the only one I know of who has installed a transmission oil cooler to the auto.
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      10-23-2012, 07:32 AM   #851
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I just went to the track on Saturday for our local BMWCCA chapter's Fall HPDE. We had four 20 minute sessions, and I went into limp in 3 of them. The limps were all registering a 30FC fault code. I don't recall the exact verbiage, but it's something like charge air pressure too low, leak-tightness.

This is the same code I pulled during my last track day, and it only ever happens at the track. I've never seen it during autoX or daily driving. The dealership ran their test plan a while back and told me my diverter valves were leaking. I replaced them a couple weeks ago, but clearly that wasn't the problem.

Have any of you guys had this? If so, I'm curious to see how the problem was diagnosed and resolved. I'm also wondering why it didn't happen in one of my sessions, considering I pushed the car very hard.
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      10-24-2012, 12:16 PM   #852
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From my 5 minutes of internet research 30FC is an "underboost" code, so look for leaks. Another guy had "bad wastegates" (assuming they wouldn't stay closed) and they were replaced which fixed the issue.
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      10-24-2012, 05:58 PM   #853
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Yeah, I saw those too. I was hoping to get a little more insight from someone who may have actually had the issue and resolved it. Is there a "best" way to diagnose a boost leak? Like I was saying, I can only replicate this at the track, so I'm trying to avoid the 'take it to the shop, they say its fixed, take it to the track, find out its not' game.

Crazy thing is, the dealership quoted me $640 to replace the diverter valves! I would have been very mad if I had paid that only to find out it didn't fix it. While I didn't pay that much, I did spend $100 on parts to do it myself.
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      10-24-2012, 08:55 PM   #854
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You simply can't track an AT car.
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      10-24-2012, 09:16 PM   #855
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Orly?
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      10-26-2012, 12:56 PM   #856
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Orly?
The AT's definitely have more water-temp issues because part of the radiator is lost to the transmission cooler, which heats your water temps further.

Definitely more of a challenge!

Look into a standalone tranny cooler in the drivers side fender (where the PPK radiator would go) and maybe look at a MT radiator to reclaim your radiator space.

That'd get you at least to where the MT guys are at.

Disclaimer: I haven't tried that or seen it done so I don't know. Just a starting point.
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      10-27-2012, 11:09 AM   #857
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You simply can't track an AT car.
Seem to be doing just fine here Ran a best of 1:48 that day. E90 M3s were all at 1:55.
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      10-28-2012, 09:13 AM   #858
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Seem to be doing just fine here
Yep, Ultra forum Racer is simply confused
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