[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by jbass524

Thanks. 335is are already overheating and I may want that space in the driver's side fender for an additional oil cooler while having the increased radiator capacity.

This is just from my experience. I'm sure this could work some but I don't feel it would for me. Plus it's so tiny I think the radiators coming out have more capacity than the main radiator and this combined. I would also need to get a new bumper.

Just keep in mind though that a couple of guys have logged their water temps on this site during hard laps in the summer, and since they already have oil coolers, the water temps never went over 220! If its a cheaper after market radiator, I say go for it, if not don't bother. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...mance+radiator

[mid-corner fun]

It's here!!! It'll be a while before it makes a difference though, we're at 22F and buried in snow at the moment...



Terry is also working on displaying water temps on the fuel gauge so hopefully we'll be able to soon watch both water and oil temps at the track. (the JB4 guys that is)

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by PeterM1

It's here!!! It'll be a while before it makes a difference though, we're at 22F and buried in snow at the moment...



Terry is also working on displaying water temps on the fuel gauge so hopefully we'll be able to soon watch both water and oil temps at the track. (the JB4 guys that is)

Congrats Peter! hopefully we can have some fun at the track this year! I'm installing mine in mid march, and my first track event is in mid may!

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by PeterM1

Terry is also working on displaying water temps on the fuel gauge so hopefully we'll be able to soon watch both water and oil temps at the track. (the JB4 guys that is)

You should be able to read your water temps of your display. Here's how, from this thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...7&postcount=26

Quote:
Originally Posted by Confidential Informant
Press and hold the milage reset button (10 to 15 seconds) until "01.00 FGSTNR is displayed. Your code is listed under this heading with two letters followed by five numbers. Write these down. Now ADD all five numbers up to get the sum and this is your password to unlock the menu. While in this menu, you can continue to press the reset button to scroll through the "01.xx" menus.

While you are in the "01.xx menu, press and hold the milage reset button again for a few seconds and you will see the "01.xx menu again. Now quickly within a second press and release the reset button 18 more times to get to the menu item number "19 - Unlock". Wait a second or two and you will be prompted to enter the unlock code which is the sum of the number listed in "01.00". To enter the code, press and release the reset button until you arrive at the unlock code number. At this point the menu is unlocked and you can scroll with the reset button to number "07.00" which is the coolant temperature. I only drove for a few miles, but it continued to display while driving and read between 91 and 106 degrees C. I will drive it harder tomorrow and see where I can get it to read.

[mid-corner fun]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

You should be able to read your water temps of your display. Here's how, from this thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...7&postcount=26

Quote:
Originally Posted by Confidential Informant
Press and hold the milage reset button (10 to 15 seconds) until "01.00 FGSTNR is displayed. Your code is listed under this heading with two letters followed by five numbers. Write these down. Now ADD all five numbers up to get the sum and this is your password to unlock the menu. While in this menu, you can continue to press the reset button to scroll through the "01.xx" menus.

While you are in the "01.xx menu, press and hold the milage reset button again for a few seconds and you will see the "01.xx menu again. Now quickly within a second press and release the reset button 18 more times to get to the menu item number "19 - Unlock". Wait a second or two and you will be prompted to enter the unlock code which is the sum of the number listed in "01.00". To enter the code, press and release the reset button until you arrive at the unlock code number. At this point the menu is unlocked and you can scroll with the reset button to number "07.00" which is the coolant temperature. I only drove for a few miles, but it continued to display while driving and read between 91 and 106 degrees C. I will drive it harder tomorrow and see where I can get it to read.

thanks, I was under the impression that this procedure doesn't work on e9x but I'll give it a try!

[Martin_hbg]

Saturday track event turned into a crappy day…..

In the past the oil temp used to reach 290-295 degrees and I had an occasional limp mode at Sebring so in January I installed the AR Design Oil Cooler. At my first event this year ambient high temp was about 65 degrees and the oil temp never went past 280 degrees so I was quite pleased and could not wait to get back out on the track again. This past weekend the car went into limp mode already during the first morning session while the ambient temp was about 68 degrees and mid-day when the temperature was about 80 degrees I got about 3-5 laps from each session before it went into limp modes. The oil temp was however never more than 280-285 degrees.

Is there a way to check any error codes what caused the limp mode? Could it have been the oil temp that caused it even though I never saw it go past 285 degrees or was it maybe the water temp?

My car is out of warranty but I am taking it to the dealer next week for HPFP Recall and hope they can see what caused the limp modes.

Any help and advice is appreciated.

335i Sedan -07, Manual 6sp, Sport package with OEM Oil Cooler, AR-Design Oil Cooler, Injen air intake and no tune.

[zsapphire7]

obd2 or bt tool.. u need to pull the codes to find out anything..

[mid-corner fun]

You're flying blind, like zsapphire7 said you need to invest in a code reading tool. BT will go way beyond any regular OBD reader, at a cost.

2 weekends ago I had to pit in on 3 of the 8 sessions due to limp mode, none of which were oil or water induced. Ambient in the 40s. Let us know how it goes, the codes will stay there till you find a way to clear them.

Originally Posted by Martin_hbg

Saturday track event turned into a crappy day…..

In the past the oil temp used to reach 290-295 degrees and I had an occasional limp mode at Sebring so in January I installed the AR Design Oil Cooler. At my first event this year ambient high temp was about 65 degrees and the oil temp never went past 280 degrees so I was quite pleased and could not wait to get back out on the track again. This past weekend the car went into limp mode already during the first morning session while the ambient temp was about 68 degrees and mid-day when the temperature was about 80 degrees I got about 3-5 laps from each session before it went into limp modes. The oil temp was however never more than 280-285 degrees.

Is there a way to check any error codes what caused the limp mode? Could it have been the oil temp that caused it even though I never saw it go past 285 degrees or was it maybe the water temp?

My car is out of warranty but I am taking it to the dealer next week for HPFP Recall and hope they can see what caused the limp modes.

Any help and advice is appreciated.

335i Sedan -07, Manual 6sp, Sport package with OEM Oil Cooler, AR-Design Oil Cooler, Injen air intake and no tune.

[jbass524]

HPFP can definitely cause a limp but the coolant temp has caused it also. I have limped when my oil temp was below 270 and I'm assuming that's what caused it.

Our coolant gets incredibly hot but there is no gauge which hides this from most of us. Therefore we don't talk about it. An aftermarket radiator is what's needed. See the 335 is and the 1M; N54s with additional radiator capacity.

OP, do you have an MT or AT? Also, zsapphire is correct.

[mid-corner fun]

AT

But in the last event it was VANOS codes specifically that killed me.

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by PeterM1

AT

But in the last event it was VANOS codes specifically that killed me.

PeterM1, what was the cause of your limp mode if it wasn't the oil or coolant temps?

This is seat of the pants temp gauge but it seems like the ATs generate about 15 degrees more temp than the MTs. The radiator really is too small and just not enough if you have an AT as part of its capacity is used to to cool the transmission because it gets hotter than an MT.

I'm in the same boat.

[Autobahn335i]

I attended the Nürburgring twice last year but couldn't achieve more than two consecutive laps due to brake problems (uneven pad deposits on the rotors caused shudder).

However oil temps were already on the hot side and I would prefer to stay safe, as I have a few track days planned this year. And I'm AT.

So has anyone succesfully retrofitted the additional water radiator from the performance package?

Sadly there's still no aluminium radiator available for a reasonable price.

[mid-corner fun]

Originally Posted by jbass524

PeterM1, what was the cause of your limp mode if it wasn't the oil or coolant temps?

This is seat of the pants temp gauge but it seems like the ATs generate about 15 degrees more temp than the MTs. The radiator really is too small and just not enough if you have an AT as part of its capacity is used to to cool the transmission because it gets hotter than an MT.

I'm in the same boat.

2a87. VANOS solenoids & carbon buildup. I usually get in trouble trying to follow a handful of (faster) P-cars. This time around it was an RS. I was able to finish entire 25min sessions with the same settings and same ambient provided I'm ahead of the pack/not following anybody. Quite frustrating if you ask me...

[jbass524]

AR has a radiator specifically for the automatic. Not sure if it's in stock but it is listed.

[mid-corner fun]

BTW, regarding the water temps, Motul's Mocool helped a bit last year, I'll try it again this year (or Water Wetter) for a small temp drop. (drained it for the winter)

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Martin_hbg

Saturday track event turned into a crappy day…..

In the past the oil temp used to reach 290-295 degrees and I had an occasional limp mode at Sebring so in January I installed the AR Design Oil Cooler. At my first event this year ambient high temp was about 65 degrees and the oil temp never went past 280 degrees so I was quite pleased and could not wait to get back out on the track again. This past weekend the car went into limp mode already during the first morning session while the ambient temp was about 68 degrees and mid-day when the temperature was about 80 degrees I got about 3-5 laps from each session before it went into limp modes. The oil temp was however never more than 280-285 degrees.

Is there a way to check any error codes what caused the limp mode? Could it have been the oil temp that caused it even though I never saw it go past 285 degrees or was it maybe the water temp?

My car is out of warranty but I am taking it to the dealer next week for HPFP Recall and hope they can see what caused the limp modes.

Any help and advice is appreciated.

335i Sedan -07, Manual 6sp, Sport package with OEM Oil Cooler, AR-Design Oil Cooler, Injen air intake and no tune.

Were're all struggling with the same issue bud. Its most likely water temps that is causing your limp modes. Always turn on your heater when you are racing, and this will help drop water and oil temps by quite a bit. Crank up the fan too, when you do it. Lastly, try running with less than a 50/50 coolant to water ratio. Try 30% coolant 70% water+coolant additive (e.g: redline water weter, gunk liquid cool, royal purple ice, motul mocool, etc). doing these two things will prevent your limp mode issues.

[zsapphire7]

when running water wetter, do we need to regularly flush the radiator fluid to avoid corrosion issues?

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by PeterM1

2a87. VANOS solenoids & carbon buildup. I usually get in trouble trying to follow a handful of (faster) P-cars. This time around it was an RS. I was able to finish entire 25min sessions with the same settings and same ambient provided I'm ahead of the pack/not following anybody. Quite frustrating if you ask me...

Peter, have you installed the stett oil cooler? I'm curious to see what this mod did, also, try running with the heater on, like set to 78-80+, maybe fan setting on 3. This will make your oil temps take a dive.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by zsapphire7

when running water wetter, do we need to regularly flush the radiator fluid to avoid corrosion issues?

Not unless thats all your running. The coolant should have anti-corrosive properties, so it should be no problem. I'm flushing my radiator this weekend with prestone radiator flush, though.

[mid-corner fun]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Peter, have you installed the stett oil cooler? I'm curious to see what this mod did, also, try running with the heater on, like set to 78-80+, maybe fan setting on 3. This will make your oil temps take a dive.

not yet, hopefully soon.

[mid-corner fun]

Replacing the solenoids next week and trying to schedule the oil cooler installation for 2-3 weeks from now, next event end of April, will let you know how it goes.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Just keep in mind though that a couple of guys have logged their water temps on this site during hard laps in the summer, and since they already have oil coolers, the water temps never went over 220! If its a cheaper after market radiator, I say go for it, if not don't bother. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...mance+radiator

Actually that's getting dangerously close to "limp mode" territory. When coolant temp reaches 242º F it'll go into the first stage of limp by cutting power to the engine. By 248º F it'll go into FULL limp mode and the warning lights will come on.