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      04-23-2011, 08:46 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by TXSailor View Post
I am thinking about running my cobb stg 1 93 oct tune at the track. I do have the stett OC- what do you guys think? Of course I can flash to stock if it gets too hot- or vice versa, and start base. But I am so used to the tune, I would like to try it. Again- what do you all think? I will be using the stock airbox.
go for it and let us know how it goes, I'm typically cycling between 3 boost levels at the track (let's just call them high, mid and stock) depending on track type and temps.

Please keep a record of cobb stg, ambient, oil temp per run if possible, I started doing this late last year and it helps a lot. As far as the stock airbox goes, with ambient in the 70-90s I'm able to get more runs (pre-OC) with the stock airbox than a DCI. With colder temps, it seems to be the other way around.
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      04-23-2011, 09:42 PM   #134
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That was kinda my thought / understanding about the airbox. If it ends up being cool (who knows what we'll get in a week in Texas??) I may drop the DCI in, but most likely it will be warm and I think the oem airbox will serve me best.
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      04-26-2011, 10:18 PM   #135
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Guys, great news! I've been able to get the computer to read water temps, in our car! Here's the post on how to unlock this feature: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...7&postcount=26

I did it tonight, after a few tries. I had been parked for a while, so I started out at 75C. After driving for like 20 Mins, the oil temps were at 239F, while the water temps were at 98C, or 208F! I'm going to keep monitoring it, and see where I get up to cruising on the highway. I will be at the track in two weeks, but I was wondering if one of you track guys can read your water temps, and let us know what it hovers at, while you are racing. Also if you guys try this, and it doesn't work, just Let me know, and I'll guide you guys through it. Its confusing at first, but once you get it, its a breeze.
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      04-27-2011, 08:53 AM   #136
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Guys, great news! I've been able to get the computer to read water temps, in our car! Here's the post on how to unlock this feature: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...7&postcount=26

I did it tonight, after a few tries. I had been parked for a while, so I started out at 75C. After driving for like 20 Mins, the oil temps were at 239F, while the water temps were at 98C, or 208F! I'm going to keep monitoring it, and see where I get up to cruising on the highway. I will be at the track in two weeks, but I was wondering if one of you track guys can read your water temps, and let us know what it hovers at, while you are racing. Also if you guys try this, and it doesn't work, just Let me know, and I'll guide you guys through it. Its confusing at first, but once you get it, its a breeze.
Glad to see it worked for you, very important info to have! I tried it a while ago and couldn't get this to work, apparently I was doing something wrong, I'll try again tonight.
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      04-27-2011, 08:56 AM   #137
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Peter- great news- thanks for posting! I also have stett stg 2, though I didn't get the thermostat (live in dallas, figured it isn't cold enough) I am headed to the track next week. I will add the mocool as well. Ambiants here lately have ranged from 60-94 so no telling what we will get on track day.

FYI my car runs about 220-230 now around town. If I get racy I can get it to 240 with amb's in the 70-80's. Before I was generally around 260.
You're right about the temps, we had some unusual weather here lately (80F) and oil temps are now hovering at 220F during highway/city driving. Still working with STETT to figure out the annoying ticking when the thermostat opens at 180F.
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      04-27-2011, 09:56 AM   #138
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Glad to see it worked for you, very important info to have! I tried it a while ago and couldn't get this to work, apparently I was doing something wrong, I'll try again tonight.
Yeah, let me know how it works out. The instructions aren't very good but it does work. I can re-write it to where it makes more sense, if you can't get it to work for you. So far highest water temps with my 1 hr highway commute to work= 98C w/ heater off 95C with heater on. Unless I see high numbers at the track, I'm not upgrading the radiator, or getting a trans oil cooler.
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      04-27-2011, 09:56 AM   #139
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You're right about the temps, we had some unusual weather here lately (80F) and oil temps are now hovering at 220F during highway/city driving. Still working with STETT to figure out the annoying ticking when the thermostat opens at 180F.
someone else had this ticking noise as well: antonio335?. Hopefully its not due to unboiled moisture going back into the engine from the OC.

Last edited by Turkeybaster115; 04-27-2011 at 04:20 PM.
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      04-29-2011, 09:35 AM   #140
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Yeah, let me know how it works out. The instructions aren't very good but it does work. I can re-write it to where it makes more sense, if you can't get it to work for you. So far highest water temps with my 1 hr highway commute to work= 98C w/ heater off 95C with heater on. Unless I see high numbers at the track, I'm not upgrading the radiator, or getting a trans oil cooler.
I had the HPF replaced last week, put in the OEM airbox yeasterday, putting in some Watter Wetter tonight and heading to Sebring on Sunday.

I have tried to set up so I can read the water temp inthe past but failed. i could not get out of the "01.xx" mode. If you can guide me through it i will be glad to test and report Sunday. I will pm you my cell number in case you have time guide me through over the phone.
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      04-29-2011, 11:36 AM   #141
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Originally Posted by orionredwing View Post
Oh, I heard somewhere that an upgraded radiator also helps w/ keeping oil temps down (I do mean oil temps, not tranny). I have no idea how these 2 separate cooling systems can help each other. Can someone explain?

Your radiator is the first line of defense your car has against oil/car temps. The water flows around the engine block, picks up heat from the OEM trans cooler (If your an auto), then returns to the radiator, where it gets fanned down. In a Naturally aspirated car, this is all you'd need to keep the cars temps down (Oil, block, and trans). In High HP, NA cars, or Forced Induction cars like ours The small radiator is over whelmed. In FI cars like ours, the oil is used to cool the turbo's, which are spitting out 400 Degree gases headed to the intercooler.
The reason why lowering water temps can help reduce oil temps is because in our car, the turbos are cooled by oil AND water (correct me if im wrong). Also keep in mind when oil temps skyrocket, the water is also used to help cool the oil directly. I believe you can see channels in the oil filter housing where coolant flows beside the oil (saw these when Mr.5 opened it up).

Therefore, if your oil temps increase, your already overburdened water/radiator has to not only cool down the engine/transmission & turbo, but the excessively heated oil too. I bet youll see that once you pass a certain oil temp, water temps will skyrocket just as well.

2 solutions:
1. Keep oil temps down and hope that the water temps don't get too high.
2. Cool the water down and hope that it can also carry heat fast enough away from oil to keep it from getting too hot.

OR... you can just do both! problem solved
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      04-29-2011, 12:19 PM   #142
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Which would be the first mod in your opinion experts?

Oil or water cooling upgrade?
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      04-29-2011, 02:22 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat767676 View Post
Which would be the first mod in your opinion experts?

Oil or water cooling upgrade?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat767676 View Post
Which would be the first mod in your opinion experts?

Oil or water cooling upgrade?
This depends on how hard you drive - assuming this is because you're tracking. If you're new to tracking I would do an oil cooler (evolution, stett, dinan). If you're a faaaaaast driver I would make sure to do as much as possible:
  • oil cooler
  • radiator when available - AT-specific
  • if a radiator isn't available a transmission cooler

Other aids:
  • Intercooler
  • vented hood
  • distilled water with mocool or water wetter instead of coolant
  • some do meth injection but not sure if that would help
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      04-29-2011, 02:22 PM   #144
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Which would be the first mod in your opinion experts?

Oil or water cooling upgrade?
OIL! There is a guy on your forum who had the same problems you did. He was heavily modified, and kept going into limp mode. He upgraded his oil cooler to the larger dinan, and he was fine after that:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ght=oil+cooler
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      04-29-2011, 02:24 PM   #145
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Ok, thanks guys!!!
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      04-29-2011, 02:29 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsapphire7 View Post
The reason why lowering water temps can help reduce oil temps is because in our car, the turbos are cooled by oil AND water (correct me if im wrong). Also keep in mind when oil temps skyrocket, the water is also used to help cool the oil directly. I believe you can see channels in the oil filter housing where coolant flows beside the oil (saw these when Mr.5 opened it up).

Therefore, if your oil temps increase, your already overburdened water/radiator has to not only cool down the engine/transmission & turbo, but the excessively heated oil too. I bet youll see that once you pass a certain oil temp, water temps will skyrocket just as well.

2 solutions:
1. Keep oil temps down and hope that the water temps don't get too high.
2. Cool the water down and hope that it can also carry heat fast enough away from oil to keep it from getting too hot.

OR... you can just do both! problem solved
I've haven't been thinking like this, these days. Since I've been looking at my water temps as I drive to work, in my 80 mile commute, I noticed that our radiator is fine for both city, and highway driving. I will monitor water temps at the track as well, to see if it is above 96-98 C, but so far, like Mr. 5 was saying, our cars might not actually benefit from radiator, or trans cooling mods.
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      04-29-2011, 02:36 PM   #147
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I have tried to set up so I can read the water temp inthe past but failed. i could not get out of the "01.xx" mode. If you can guide me through it i will be glad to test and report Sunday. I will pm you my cell number in case you have time guide me through over the phone.
1. Press and hold your milage reset button until you see 01.XXX[last 5 numbers of VIN]. Add those numbers up.
2. At the 01.XXX screen press and hold the button, then rapidly press and release it, and you will go up in number: 01.00, 02.00, 03.00...keep going and stop at 19.00. wait, and the screen will ask for your code. Your code is the number you got from adding those numbers. rapidly press and release the button, until you end at your number. You have now entered your code.
3. wait, and it should take you back to 01.XXX. rapidly press and release until you get to 07.00. Stop, and it will start reading your water temps. Fully start your car, and it will keep reading temps until you completely stop and turn off your car.
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      04-29-2011, 02:39 PM   #148
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Add up the XXX numbers or do we include the 01?
When you say press and hold the button, are you referring to the mileage reset button again?

Thanks!
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      04-29-2011, 02:41 PM   #149
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...I will monitor water temps at the track as well, to see if it is above 96-98 C, but so far, like Mr. 5 was saying, our cars might not actually benefit from radiator, or trans cooling mods.
What is his reasoning around why they may not help?
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      04-29-2011, 02:45 PM   #150
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Add up the XXX numbers or do we include the 01?
When you say press and hold the button, are you referring to the mileage reset button again?

Thanks!
Just the numbers after the 01.XXX, which should be the last 5 numbers of your VIN. Yes, its the milage reset button.

Last edited by Turkeybaster115; 04-29-2011 at 02:56 PM.
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      04-29-2011, 02:52 PM   #151
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What is his reasoning around why they may not help?
He's logged his water temps at the track, and they never went above 98C. Now, I used to doubt him, because I have an auto, and he has an H-pattern manual. He doesn't have his trans being cooled by his radiator like we do. However, once I started driving around and looking at water temps, its clear how our radiator works. Keep in mind I even have an AR oil cooler "blocking" my radiator. The only time water temps rise above 98C, is in stop and go, after a long high way run, like my 40 mile commute to and from work. once you get over 40 mph in our car, and air starts flowing through the radiator, temps dive back down to 98C. This also means that the max our water, and trans sees is 98C, or 208F. So for driving around town, or long highway commutes, a trans oil cooler, or larger radiator is a big waste of money. Not 100% sure about the track, but like Mr. 5 said, unless you are driving at 8/10ths for more than 30 mins on a 90+ degree day, your water temps will not go over 98C. I have to see what water temps will do at the track, though, but at this point, I doubt it will go over 98C. I'll report back though.
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      04-29-2011, 03:48 PM   #152
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Turkeybaster115, Hmmm...I thought this was all about 10/10ths driving at the track. Let's wait and see temps at the track going all out. I'm at Thunderhill this weekend and will try and get the dashboard coolant temp reading to work while on the track. I'm very curious.

Also, as much I respect Mr 5 and the mods, research and tracking he does his times at Laguna (a high horsepower track) are 1:54 or 1:52 in a very well sorted MT with big horsepower. Although I'm sure he is driving hard, the car is not being pushed near it's limits.

BTW, I would be fine on the street without any OC, the stock intercooler and regular coolant.

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      04-29-2011, 04:21 PM   #153
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Turkeybaster115, Hmmm...I thought this was all about 10/10ths driving at the track. Let's wait and see temps at the track going all out. I'm at Thunderhill this weekend and will try and get the dashboard coolant temp reading to work while on the track. I'm very curious.

Also, as much I respect Mr 5 and the mods, research and tracking he does his times at Laguna (a high horsepower track) are 1:54 or 1:52 in a very well sorted MT with big horsepower. Although I'm sure he is driving hard, the car is not being pushed near it's limits.

BTW, I would be fine on the street without any OC, the stock intercooler and regular coolant.
Yes, the track, especially during the summer is a whole nother ball game. However, till I see some hard numbers like coolant temps at or above 117C, I'm not in a hurry to source a trans cooler, or larger radiator.
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      04-29-2011, 04:26 PM   #154
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Yes, the track, especially during the summer is a whole nother ball game. However, till I see some hard numbers like coolant temps at or above 117C, I'm not in a hurry to source a trans cooler, or larger radiator.
Let's see what numbers I come back with after this weekend. Cross your fingers I can get it to work ;-)
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