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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Need DIY for Brake Rotor Change



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  Need DIY for Brake Rotor Change
govtec
09-02-2010
I searched but didn't find any post for a diy rotor/disc change. Is it a difficult job? I saw the brake pad change thread on the 335 and it looks fairly simple. Is it just 2 bolts holding the caliper to rotor? We're talking E90 here. I'm looking to order my parts from here:...
  #22  
By parapaul on 06-14-2013, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samdaman View Post
Anyone know if it's ok to resurface BMW rotors? I put new EBC ceramic RED brake pads onto my existing rotors without resurfacing them (I also got the spray on disc brake quieter) but they squeal like crazy when I'm braking at slow speed after they've warmed up a little. The car has 55k miles on them and I believe this is the first brake change. The inner and outer edges are pretty high and then sink in a bit where the main pads hit the rotors so I'm thinking that's what's causing the squeal. The EBC Red brakes have an anti-squeal shim on them so I'm assuming the squeal is more coming from the the uneven rotor surface or edges. So my question is...is it too late to try resurfacing the rotors since I've put about 100 miles on the brake pads? (and does BMW even sanction resurfacing rotors or are they simply 1-time use?) OR should I just paste on some anti-brake squeal on the backs of the pads? HELP! The squeal is killing me!!!
Relax

EBC pads tend to squeal pretty badly for the first couple of hundred miles due to their bed-in coating. I wouldn't worry about it until at least then. They definitely DO NOT need any anti-squeal paste of any sort, they have rubber shims on the back from the factory.
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  #23  
By Amini77 on 07-26-2013, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samdaman View Post
Anyone know if it's ok to resurface BMW rotors? I put new EBC ceramic RED brake pads onto my existing rotors without resurfacing them (I also got the spray on disc brake quieter) but they squeal like crazy when I'm braking at slow speed after they've warmed up a little. The car has 55k miles on them and I believe this is the first brake change. The inner and outer edges are pretty high and then sink in a bit where the main pads hit the rotors so I'm thinking that's what's causing the squeal. The EBC Red brakes have an anti-squeal shim on them so I'm assuming the squeal is more coming from the the uneven rotor surface or edges. So my question is...is it too late to try resurfacing the rotors since I've put about 100 miles on the brake pads? (and does BMW even sanction resurfacing rotors or are they simply 1-time use?) OR should I just paste on some anti-brake squeal on the backs of the pads? HELP! The squeal is killing me!!!
I've heard bad stories from resurfacing BMW rotors. Apparently they aren't like "honda or toyota rotors to be so easily resurfaced" according to my mechanic's worker and they're easily warped when resurfaced.
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  #24  
By danb35 on 08-04-2013, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
PB Blaster is okay. If you want a real good penetrating oil, get Kroil from Kano Labs. The stuff is awesome and doesn't smell like skunk piss. You can only get it from Kano Labs on line.
Actually, Kroil is widely available--I've ordered mine from a gunsmith supply house called Brownell's for some years, but I'm sure there are other sources. It does work well.
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  #25  
By wdeerfield on 03-20-2014, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amini77 View Post
I've heard bad stories from resurfacing BMW rotors. Apparently they aren't like "honda or toyota rotors to be so easily resurfaced" according to my mechanic's worker and they're easily warped when resurfaced.
bmw rotors are already so thin to save weight that after wear, there usually isnt enough to save them by resurfacing. Its best to just do new as you can get a whole brake package for ~$500 from Turner using OEM suppliers for rotors and OEM pads/sensors
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  #26  
By mweisdorfer on 03-26-2014, 03:15 PM
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There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the guide. Then there are two bolts that hold the guide in place. Then there is a small screw that holds the rotor on.

Typically speaking, you can get one change of pads on the Rotors. You should not have to change out the rotors at 55k. I would look into Akebono ceramic pads. On the 2nd change of pads, you will most likely have to change out the rotors.

However, I am wondering about the lip you describe on the current rotor. That is usually a sign the rotor is done and needs to be changed out.

I would not re-surface a BMW rotor. (Zimmerman).
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  #27  
By Efthreeoh on 03-29-2014, 09:00 AM
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I've done at least 15 brake jobs on BMWs. Early on I tried two or three of them (on different cars) without changing the rotors and found that the original rotors, when they have gone through a full pad set, will not make it all the way through the second set of pads without warping. Machining the old rotor to get it the surface properly flat, which should be done to allow the pads to properly bed with the rotors, makes the rotors too thin to last through the second set of pads. If you are DIYing your brakes, you are saving more in labor than the difference in paying for the old rotors to get resurfaced versus the cost of new rotors, so it just makes sense to start out with fresh pads and rotors. And like I said previously, just get a set of new rotor screws while your at it.
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  #28  
By 335e92tx on 03-29-2014, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I've done at least 15 brake jobs on BMWs. Early on I tried two or three of them (on different cars) without changing the rotors and found that the original rotors, when they have gone through a full pad set, will not make it all the way through the second set of pads without warping. Machining the old rotor to get it the surface properly flat, which should be done to allow the pads to properly bed with the rotors, makes the rotors too thin to last through the second set of pads. If you are DIYing your brakes, you are saving more in labor than the difference in paying for the old rotors to get resurfaced versus the cost of new rotors, so it just makes sense to start out with fresh pads and rotors. And like I said previously, just get a set of new rotor screws while your at it.
Good advice there EFth. And considering the price of a good set of rotors now, its a no brainer, see my update to the pad change thread on the current deal from tire rack.

For other 335 owners instead if using a hammer when trying to get the rotors off check #177
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=177
Last edited by 335e92tx; 03-29-2014 at 09:01 PM.
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  #29  
By Kruz on 07-10-2014, 03:06 PM
sub
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  #30  
By Hops128i on 07-10-2014, 07:29 PM
has anyone used a rotor puller? Do they work?
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  #31  
By mweisdorfer on 07-24-2014, 08:35 PM
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Rotors / pads / misc

You basically want to replace the rotors, pads and retaining clips and of course the sensors. You can do both axels for about $500.00 in parts.

I like Brembo UV rotors and Akebono pads.

Make sure you clean up the caliper guide pins good with an emery cloth or 1000 grit sand paper and grease the crap out of them with high temp brake grease.

I would put some synthetic grease on the caliper guide bolts before putting the caliper guide back on.

Also, the last thing you do is install the sensor. This just clips right in from the top of the caliper once it is secure to the caliper guide.

Last, make sure you burnish the pads. You do this by running the car up to 60mph and break steadily w/ out setting off the ABS down to 15 mph, Do this 8x in a row on your test run.

The only thing with Akebono pads is that it takes about 1000 miles for them to fully break in. The nice thing is that there is virtually no break dust, and they break just as good as the stock pads. At least in my opinion they do.

One more thing, if you are doing a break job, you might consider painting your calipers and caliper guides. There is plenty of DIY's on this. You should take the caliper off the car. If you do that, you will need a break Vacuum to properly restore pressure in the lines. So, you will need about 3 cans of Dot 4. Your also going to need a flare style wrench or you risk breaking the the break line where it is attached to the caliper.
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  #32  
By Meeni on 07-24-2014, 08:41 PM
If the rotor is stuck, use a rubber mass to "ring" it. A single blow flat on the center of the rotor is usually enough, if not, use more force.
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  #33  
By Efthreeoh on 08-03-2014, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hops128i View Post
has anyone used a rotor puller? Do they work?
I just use a 14 inch long 1 3/4 wood dowel and a 3 lb. sledge hammer. Tap the rotor from the back side where the caliper usually sits and rotate it and smack it again.
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  #34  
By Initial G on 08-08-2014, 10:15 AM
Anyone know what the factory runout spec is for the 335i rotors? I don't have a Bentley manual and I've been searching and can't seem to find it. Thank you!
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  #35  
By Frasdl on 10-31-2014, 11:57 PM
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Broke a bolt too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ska///235i View Post


Other notes:
ē Putting back on the bracket bolts; be very careful when you torque these bolts. The front bolts are twice as big as the rears. I made the mistake of over torque one of the rear bolts and it broke. You want to properly torque them to the steering knuckle but donít over torque. A short torque wrench is ideal for the rear (no more than a foot long). Here are the specs: Front bolt = 110nm/81ft lbs Rear bolt = 65nm/48ft lbs
I have to second this point. I broke a rear bolt today making sure I hit 48ft lbs. They seem to spin on lower torque, rather than my wrench clicking. This must be very close to the limit for these alloy bolts or whatever they are.

It was no fun only getting one side done as I had to drive to the dealer to replace the bolt. However I was relieved the bolt came out and that I didn't strip the back of the bracket they screw into. This happens because the mounting plate attached to the hub or suspention is not threaded. Only the caliper bracket is threaded allowing you to spin the middle of the bolt if you keep torquing. I had no issues on the left side, only the right.
Last edited by Frasdl; 11-03-2014 at 10:57 AM.
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