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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: The final Homelink retrofit guide



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DIY: The final Homelink retrofit guide
Published by tylerdurdon
11-03-2010
DIY: The final Homelink retrofit guide

First of all, a word of thanks to all of the other homelink DIYs on here. They helped tremendously, but at the same time, I was left with a few questions in a few places...ones I plan to clear up with this one. I'll be nabbing a few pictures from some of the other DIY's I've found, as well as adding the ones I took during mine.

Thanks to Evan at Tischer for the help!

Tools needed:
- A regular flathead screwdriver (must be clean)
- A mini-flathead screwdriver

a.) Purchase a mirror. You can go dealer, but I got mine off of e-bay for a pretty reasonable price.

b.) Purchase the retrofit kit (Part# 61120434330). I had a clown nose already, but otherwise my original mirror was lacking of any other features. The mirror with all features requires additional wiring, hence this DIY.

c.) Install away! Before you touch anything, WASH YOUR HANDS. Once you get that interior dirty, it's never coming off.

1.) Carefully split the cover for the mirror's arm using your fingers.

(picture courtesy of this DIY)


2.) Once you have removed that, gently twist the mirror assembly towards the passenger side of the vehicle. It takes deliberate force, but don't over-force this part if it's not moving. There are a few folks on these boards who have posted horror stories of a crunch sound and having to buy a new windshield. This is what it looks like dis-assembled:

(picture courtesy of this DIY)


3.) After that, remove the lighting assembly (FZD) from it's location.

Use the flathead screwdriver for this (making sure it's clean, as well as your hands). Some folks prefer a spatula (to make sure you don't mark the upholstery), but I never got enough leverage that way, so just be careful when you are sliding it in there and you should have no trouble.

Once the FZD is loose, you do not actually have to disconnect all wiring, you can just let it hang there.

Also, don't worry if the white cover plate pops off when you are placing the screw driver, it pops back on and you can do that during re-assembly.

To remove the FZD, you will slide the screwdriver between the FZD and the upholstery just behind where the reading lights are, as depicted below:

(picture courtesy of this DIY)


4.) Now, you can follow the instructions from BMW (this is the pdf link, use pages 11 & 12), or you can continue here for a few tricks to make it easier.

Before you do this next part, you need to remove the rubber housing from the retrofit kit. there are 2 pieces of tape on each end of it, and you need only remove the tape closest to the plastic piece it's attached to. After that, you can just pull carefully, and the rubber housing will come off, leaving the tape that comes around the wires intact.

Some wiring kits come with the connector attached, but mine didn't which made it easier. If yours does, I suggest you remove the connector from the wiring kit as well to make your life easier.

At this point is where you need to bring the retrofit wiring kit through the rubber housing that all of the original wires are already going through (between the place that the FZD resides and the windshield). I pulled the rubber housing out towards the windshield side to make this part easier. It's been described as a big pain in the butt, but thank you to welkerbrads for the straw tip, it made it very easy. Take a straw and insert in through the rubber seal along the pre-existing wiring. Then push the wires from the retrofit kit one at a time into the straw as far as you can (mine got about 1/2 way through the straw). Here's a picture of me in action:



Once you've got it that far, just pull the straw through while helping the wiring kit along, and it will come right along with it. Then...tada!



5.) Here, you can just use the factory connector and add the wires from the retrofit kit to it. AoshichanX made a great picture for this, so I'll just post that below.


Before your wires will actually click into place though, you need to unlock the connector. Take the mini-flathead and pry the bottom part of the connector (the one without wires) until it clicks open. You don't need to open it fully, just unclick it on both sides of the bottom part. Here's a pic of mine (I already have a wire from the kit in place):



If you're unsure, take a look and practice with the extra connector that came with the kit.

The wires themselves have a lip that comes off of one end, and that lip matches a groove in the connector, so they can only be inserted one way.

Another thing you may have noticed is that you may have an extra solid-brown wire. This is a ground that goes into pin 10, but it's not necessary for the functions of the mirror. Up to you if you want to do with it, but I never researched a good place to ground it to.


6.) Once that's done, it's time to connect the other end of the wires. This will require you to disconnect the 2nd connector of the FZD (refer to the pdf above to make sure you get the right one). Once you unplug that connector, you need to take it apart (otherwise you cannot plug in the wires from the kit). It slides apart pretty easily, but here's a picture of the empty connector 1/2 way apart if you are not getting it:



The pinout is written in the PDF, but it's kind of unclear as to where it all goes until you look closely at the connector, it has the pins listed on each end. Here's mine before adding the wires (notice the pin numbering):


Here it is after adding the wires:


Now you can put the connector back together, plug it in, and you're almost done. At this point, I suggest you plug all connectors into their respective sockets and do a quick test of the mirror's functions. You will have to start your car for the functions to light up...check the compass (you may have to start and stop your engine a couple times), make sure the LED blinks when you press a homelink button, and your headlights will have to be on for the auto-dim to activate. Don't forget the clown nose! Mine didn't work at first and I was kind of freaking out, but after locking and unlocking a few times, it started functioning normally.

If everything checks out, then put the FZD back in place (don't forget to put the white cover on before placing the FZD in it's location...much easier), place the rubber housing back into it's proper place, twist the new mirror onto it's socket (carefully), and put the cover back on.

You're done!

A few helpful tips/links:

1.) Look at the end of the PDF and calibrate your compass. Then set it to the proper location you live in. Mine was still set to the default 8.

2.) Here are the instructions for setting up your homelink


Thanks for reading my franken-DIY, and I hope this helps!
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  #1  
By dre_2ooo on 11-03-2010, 11:52 PM
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Just did this and it's pretty straight forward. The only thing it it's hard to tell where to put the screwdriver to remove the overhead console...you need a very small 'regular' screwdriver.

Also, everyone remember it's clockwise to loosen the mirror.
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  #2  
By tylerdurdon on 11-04-2010, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dre_2ooo View Post
Also, everyone remember it's clockwise to loosen the mirror.
This is could be interpreted many ways (I'm seeing it as counter-clockwise in my head). I guess the most accurate would be to just look at the angle of the mirror in picture 2...turn it that way.
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  #3  
By dre_2ooo on 11-04-2010, 08:37 AM
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I mean if you're inside the car, looking towards the hood, it rotates clockwise

Pic 2 shows the driver's side of the mirror rotated downwards which is incorrect for showing the loosening direction.
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  #4  
By jonnones on 11-04-2010, 06:15 PM
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This DIY is fantastic! I just finished installing a new premium mirror with only a few hiccups. Thanks for posting.

1. For some reason, I had trouble disconnecting the mirror from the wires after I had easily twisted it off the assembly. You have tug it just a bit to expose the wire connector attached to the mirror itself. After that you can just pull them apart.

2. The straw technique worked perfectly!

3. Instead of a small screw driver to unlock the first connector, use a small knife. Mine was so snug I couldn't fit the screw driver in.

4. The second wire connector did not slide apart easily for me. There's a latch that holds it in place. You have to pull the black piece apart a little and then push the grey piece out from the back. There's a slot for a screw driver to push it out.

Thanks again for the instructions.
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  #5  
By tylerdurdon on 11-05-2010, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jnones View Post
This DIY is fantastic! I just finished installing a new premium mirror with only a few hiccups. Thanks for posting.
Much appreciated! Glad someone got some use out of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jnones View Post
4. The second wire connector did not slide apart easily for me. There's a latch that holds it in place. You have to pull the black piece apart a little and then push the grey piece out from the back. There's a slot for a screw driver to push it out.
Ahh, I hadn't thought of that. I wasn't sure how far to break it down for people...thought I might get ridiculed for treating people like they were dumb. Thanks for adding though, bro.
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  #6  
By jonnones on 11-06-2010, 12:36 PM
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Speaking for myself, the simpler the better. Thanks, again.

BTW: There's another way to get to the FCZ panel if you don't want to or can't get to it with a screwdriver or spatula. If you can fit your hand between the windshield and the roof, you can actually just push the clips in with your finger. See this tutorial: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97545 (thanks to xRayx).
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  #7  
By 1QuikWS6 on 11-07-2010, 04:17 PM
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I used a similar method to remove the FCZ without the use of screwdrivers or spatulas.

But instead of just jamming my hand up between the headliner and roof right behind the console to remove the clips and risk breaking the headliner substrate:

I unclipped each visor & swung them out of the way & then removed both left & right inner visor clips from roof 1st - only (1) torx screw per side. This allows you to gently pull down on the headliner across the front with no danger of breaking and gives a ton of room to reach your hand up under the headliner and release the console clips.

Taking the visor clips off is all of about 30 seconds.

I like the straw method for getting the new wires thru the boot - I didn't see this particular DIY or use that method - but it would have made that part of the job easier
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  #8  
By matrix76 on 11-11-2010, 10:30 AM
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Just completed the install of the autodim/homelink/compass mirror. I have to say the process went very well but taking your time is key to prevent problems. The tough part was removing the overhead console. Those clips were hard to find with the tip of the screwdriver. All in all the DIY was right on the money, very pleased with the final result, and it was worth it. I did order the retrofit kit 61120434330 but I was surprised that it did not have all 7 wires in it. The process would have gone smoother if these three extra wires were in the new kit, you wouldn't need a straw or another method to fish the 4 wires threw. So I go from nothing to all three features, very nice. One note, complete all the calibrations, very important as everything worked perfectly when they were done. Thanks Tylerdurdon for this, even more informative DIY.
Last edited by matrix76; 11-11-2010 at 05:43 PM.
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  #9  
By tylerdurdon on 11-11-2010, 05:12 PM
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Glad to help
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  #10  
By enforcerman on 11-22-2010, 02:50 AM
The hardest part in all of this was putting the damn trim piece back that surrounds the mirror. The next to hardest was getting the homelink programmed. Few notes:

The hands down EASIEST way to remove the FZD (center panel) is to remove the clips for the visors. After those two easy to remove clips are removed, getting to the FZD is a snap. Also, straw worked like a charm.
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  #11  
By quiksi on 12-19-2010, 09:45 AM
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took me forever to get that stupid upper console off, was stabbing my screwdriver in there blindly until I looked up close and realized you stab in the OTHER direction

... and THEN I realize my 2011 base M3 doesn't even need the retrofit harness, and everything worked right when I plugged it up (except the compass, which I had to calibrate)
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  #12  
By Zeppelin on 01-31-2011, 03:52 PM
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After much procrastination, finally installed the homelink/compass mirror. Mirror was from e-bay, retrofit cable was from Tischer.

Had a battle getting the console down, and had done it before without much hassle. Broke the original connector that plugs into the mirror, but retrofit kit had a spare - just had to insert all the wires.

Instead of a straw, I slid a plastic cable tie through the rubber grommet and taped one wire at a time - then pulled through the grommet - tedious but the straws from McDonald's are too big to use effectively.

Homelink programming a snap - compass is next. Glad its done and works!

Thanks to all who published the pin outs for the connectors.
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  #13  
By Myki335 on 02-10-2011, 11:59 PM
I'm about to do this install over the weekend and need clarification. Comparing this write up to the pdf, it seems that you don't mention anything about cutting off the 2 wires mentioned in the pdf. Does the retrofit wire come with those wires already missing or did you leave those wires and connected them along with everything?

Currently I have a plain mirror...no homelink, no autodim, no compass.

I have the retrofit wire from Tischer and the homelink/autodimming mirror I got form ebay sitting at home, but I haven't seen it yet.

If anyone could clarify I'd greatly appreciate it.
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  #14  
By Zeppelin on 02-11-2011, 04:28 PM
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I had the same situation - a basic mirror and got my retrofit cable from Tischer. The cable from Tischer had 5 wires and there was no plug attached to any end. The solid brown wire is a ground wire not needed for US installation - you only need the other 4 wires (Brown/White, Black/Brown, Green/White, and Pink/Purple or Violet). I removed the rubber grommet and solid brown wire from the Tischer retrofit.

Be gentle with the plug on the mirror side, I broke off the little plastic piece that allows you to slide in the new wires (you can practice on the one that came with the Tischer kit - I had to use it since I broke the one already in the car).

Not enough room to stuff a fat straw into the rubber grommet - so I used a cable tie and taped the wires (one at a time) and fed them through the grommet that way.

In sum, I connected four wires to the plug by the mirror, other ends to the plug in the overhead console. I now have autodim, homelink, and a compass.
I used the pin placements as outlined in the pdf and in the diagrams in this and other DIY. Worked first time, homelink was easy setup and compass figured out where it was on its own.

Read up on some other homelink DIY threads for easy ways to release overhead console (take out screws for sunvisors and you can drop the headliner and get to console a bit easier).

Good luck!
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  #15  
By ChrisCharcoalE92 on 06-06-2011, 03:24 PM
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ok i actually already had the premium mirror but i cracked the class(well my psycho ex did)...so i ordered just the mirror off ebay n saved myself like 500 dollar from what the dealer wanted to replace it lol unbelieveable...my question is i dont need the retro fit harness im assuming so can i just twist off and connect and disconnect w.o running the wires im tryin to see which parts of the diy to cut out
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  #16  
By tylerdurdon on 06-06-2011, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisCharcoalE92 View Post
ok i actually already had the premium mirror but i cracked the class(well my psycho ex did)...so i ordered just the mirror off ebay n saved myself like 500 dollar from what the dealer wanted to replace it lol unbelieveable...my question is i dont need the retro fit harness im assuming so can i just twist off and connect and disconnect w.o running the wires im tryin to see which parts of the diy to cut out
Yes, your replacement should be very easy. You just need to do steps 1 & 2 above, then change the mirror, and put it back.

Just be very careful when twisting it. It twists away from the driver's seat. It takes deliberate force, but don't overdo it or you'll be buying a new windshield too.

Good luck!
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  #17  
By ChrisCharcoalE92 on 06-07-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerdurdon View Post
Yes, your replacement should be very easy. You just need to do steps 1 & 2 above, then change the mirror, and put it back.

Just be very careful when twisting it. It twists away from the driver's seat. It takes deliberate force, but don't overdo it or you'll be buying a new windshield too.

Good luck!
Thanks for this i just wanted to make sure...great write up...im still waiting for delivery but i can not waittt bc its so annoying driving with my glass cracked and it super dark bc the auto dim is broken lol hard to see out of it. plus i had the car for a few months have a lot of mods lined up and this is holding everything back but hopefully it will be an easy swap ill update afterwards.
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  #18  
By dukeandtheland on 06-22-2011, 05:09 PM
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a few points that were not mentioned before

The write up helped me quite a lot. Thanks!

I installed it this afternoon and noticed a few things:

1. the pdf file is crap (homelink-retrofit-pdf-february-25-2008-8-22-pm-1-3-meg.pdf), confusing and misleading. The only benefit from that pdf is the wiring to the overhead console (the colors to match the pins) on page 12; even that, the pdf doesn't even tell you which connector to pull out. Page 11 is disaster. I will truly admire whoever made it by following that page!

2. The original post didn't metion the details of wiring the mirror end so I found this picture online and posted here. Aso, that is the main reason page 11 of that pdf became a major disaster.
I hope this will help. To clarify, for many of us that got confused, what you need to do is, leave the original wires in the original black connector (Red/Violet, Gray/Black, and Brown/Black); then you put in the new wires from the retrofit (Gray/Violet, Green/White, Black/Brown, Brown/White).
You don't need to use the solid brown ground wire - I cut it off.

3. To open the overhead console, I didn't use any tools; instead I followed tips from one of the posts and used my hand to reach for the metal clips from the winshield border. It worked very well and it took me 10 secs to open it up! You do need some powerful middle or index fingers (which ever is the longest on your hand!) though...

4. It took some fight to put the mirror back in the metal bolt on the winshield. You just need to be patient until you find that snuggy spot and turn to tighten it up.

5. The compass did not work right away. I think it may need some time or I will have to do some calibration later.

6. To test the autodim, simply turn on the headlights, and turn on the cabin light. You will notice the mirror goes tint instantly.

(I don't remember where I got this wiring pic... some guy posted it)
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Last edited by dukeandtheland; 06-22-2011 at 10:24 PM.
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  #19  
By OlivaresAnthony on 06-22-2011, 07:21 PM
I did the homelink retrofit a couple of months ago but the mirror is not working. I'm sure I wired everything right but the compass, homelink, and autodim do not work. The only thing that works is the blinking clown nose. Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?
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  #20  
By dukeandtheland on 06-22-2011, 09:09 PM
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Compass calibration

I did manage to complete compass calibration which is necessary after installation of the mirror. My compass was showing wrong directions after installation.

1. Find parking lot or a circular drive where you can make 360 degree turn for 2 mins
2. use a small philip screw driver (size PH 0) or something similiar to poke that button at the bottom of the mirror. You will have to press it, hold it for 6 seconds until the compass shows "C".
3. start driving the circle until you have directions shown on the compass. It's better if you have a GPS mounted to confirm the directions
4. Stop the car. press that button again, hold it for 3 secs and you will see a number, press the button until it increases to the number matching your magnetic geographic zone. e.g., Michigan is 9, New York is 11, etc. I have attached the map

Once you entered that number, you are all set.

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
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Last edited by dukeandtheland; 06-22-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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  #21  
By dukeandtheland on 06-22-2011, 09:17 PM
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Clown Nose issue

If I were you, before I put the overhead console, the wire, and the mirror back, I would have tested it first. For example, I would press the homelink to see if the indicator light is on or not, the compass shows anything or not, the autodim goes tint or not.

If have done all the wiring exactly right, I mean exactly, not a bit off, then there is no reason it won't work.

First check how many wires you have on the mirror end connector, then check how many are in the overhead connector. Are all the colored ones matching the pins?

Did you cut any wires? Did you pull the original 3 wires from the mirror end?
There are two "Black/brown" wires in that end, same color, one is old, the other is from the retrofit harness.

Did you press and close the clips on the the mirror end black connector? Did you see all the metal tips showing up after you inserting the wires?

About the clown nose, mine is not blinking and I don't think it should because I did not wire for it - I didn't do any wiring for the alarm, did I ?
However I came across this thread about DIY the blinking clown nose. After you read this, you will know what I am talking about. It is such a wonder that you made the nose to blink when that guy made such a great effort, I mean, man, all the fancy stuff and complicated process just to make it blink...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25207

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlivaresAnthony View Post
I did the homelink retrofit a couple of months ago but the mirror is not working. I'm sure I wired everything right but the compass, homelink, and autodim do not work. The only thing that works is the blinking clown nose. Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?
Last edited by dukeandtheland; 06-23-2011 at 09:56 AM.
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