[jphughan]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Do you think that would show the right commands referenced in the spreadsheet? I'll try it and see I guess...

when you guys code the NFRM module, how do you get to it and how large of a .TRC file do you get to edit and make into a .MAN file?

I get it through the CAS master ECU and I think it's about 37KB. FYI though you have to use the original EDIABAS\ECU folder; using the one from newer daten packages or even importing them into the existing folder landed me an EDIABAS version error trying to read NFRM -- but using the old ECU folder prevents me from reading CIC, so I keep both.

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by jphughan

I get it through the CAS master ECU and I think it's about 37KB. FYI though you have to use the original EDIABAS\ECU folder; using the one from newer daten packages or even importing them into the existing folder landed me an EDIABAS version error trying to read NFRM -- but using the old ECU folder prevents me from reading CIC, so I keep both.

How did you set it up so you can switch between the two?

[jphughan]

Originally Posted by dzenno

How did you set it up so you can switch between the two?

In the EDIABAS folder I have the original folder named ECU-orig and the V42 version named ECU-new. Then I rename whichever one I need to use to "ECU" and off I go. If you need to switch mid-coding though, make sure you close NCS and then right-click EDIABAS Server and close that app too (it doesn't close automatically when NCS does.)

[dzenno]

Here's the thing, I can code the NFRM module, in my case i get a 35kb .trc file...I managed to turn off my orange side markers (SIDEMARKER_US_NFRM it was called) and I also managed to get the fob to close the windows/mirrors/sunroof, so that works

what I don't understand is why in this .TRC file for the NFRM module I don't see the commands for LED tail light retrofit which turn off the bulb errors...its the following which I don't get in my NFRM .TRC file:

CC_MELD_BFD_BL,
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BFD_L,
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BFD_R

I do see the following similar and tried setting them to nicht_aktiv but it didn't help:

CC_MELDUNG_BFD
CC_MELDUNG_BL

Funny thing is I do end up seeing the above required 3 commands from the spreadsheet when I read the entire CAS ecu (229kb .TRC file) but not when I go to the NFRM ecu (35kb .TRC file)...

Basically the lights work but the blinkers are too fast and the lightbulb error in the dash on startup which goes away and isn't annoying..

[xxxjecxxx]

Originally Posted by AU335i

are they really needed for my pre-lci 08 335i? i just want the amber corner light delete.

Depends on the last time the dealer updated the car. If it was updated within the last 6 months you will probably need the newer files because those are the ones the dealer used to program your car. If you car has not been updated in a long time, you don't really need the newer daten files. In order to code some cars, I've actually had to revert back to the old daten files. Hope that answers your questions.

[dzenno]

Bump, anyone?

[rault18]

On a pre lci ...to be precise a 2006 330i , do I need that 100 bucks cable or a regular obd2 cable will do the job? I have my old cable from my data logging Subaru days..will that cable do the job ?

Sorry of the noob question

[jphughan]

Originally Posted by rault18

On a pre lci ...to be precise a 2006 330i , do I need that 100 bucks cable or a regular obd2 cable will do the job? I have my old cable from my data logging Subaru days..will that cable do the job ?

Sorry of the noob question

DCAN, which requires the newer cable, was introduced on BMWs produced starting (EDIT: March 2007), so if your car is older than that, your car uses K-Line or maybe Double K-Line, in which case you may be able to get by with an older cable. Even if your cable doesn't work, you can buy a cheaper BMW-certified cable (about $30) than the one we've been discussing.

[rault18]

Originally Posted by jphughan

DCAN, which requires the newer cable, was introduced on BMWs produced starting (EDIT: March 2007), so if your car is older than that, your car uses K-Line or maybe Double K-Line, in which case you may be able to get by with an older cable. Even if your cable doesn't work, you can buy a cheaper BMW-certified cable (about $30) than the one we've been discussing.

Perfect. Thank you so much. Now that cable ..I did a google search and itpointed me to eBay where I saw plenty of them.. Where do you think it ll be a good place to get it from? Or actually a BMW certified one?

Thanks in advance

[jphughan]

Originally Posted by rault18

Perfect. Thank you so much. Now that cable ..I did a google search and itpointed me to eBay where I saw plenty of them.. Where do you think it ll be a good place to get it from? Or actually a BMW certified one?

Thanks in advance

Well, this is the more expensive cable from the recommended seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-I...item25667c576d

I believe that seller has the non-DCAN cable available as well but may not have it listed on eBay, so I'd recommend contacting her.

[rault18]

Originally Posted by jphughan

Well, this is the more expensive cable from the recommended seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-I...item25667c576d

I believe that seller has the non-DCAN cable available as well but may not have it listed on eBay, so I'd recommend contacting her.

Great!! Thanks!!! Will report back

[bumere90]

I have the same cable for sale. Brand new
$80 shipped

[1QuikWS6]

Actually, to alleviate any misconceptions, these are the pics of the EXACT cable that is PROVEN to work by many - the eBay link is:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-I...item25667c576d

If you purchase the cable thru the referenced ebay link then it is the cable of choice. There may be others that look similar, but not exactly the same (i.e. cable color, etc.) that will work, but this is the proven item.

[DESI4life10]

^^^Wrong.

It's the internals that matter.

There are other cables that also look like this, but have different internal components (cheaper cost), which will still cause problems.

[1QuikWS6]

Regardless of how I worded my post, the referenced ebay link, along with the pics, is the cable of preference...

[Coding@DetailAddict]

Now hopefully everyone will stop posting saying "will this cable work" on a $1.50 cable.

[mr_milo]

Originally Posted by Grant@DetailAddict

Now hopefully everyone will stop posting saying "will this cable work" on a $1.50 cable.

Wishfully thinking...

[Coding@DetailAddict]

lol right?
Speaking of noobie stuff, I'm still struggling with my INPA update

[HaZe_X]

Just thought I would post it in here since many don't know what cable to buy.

I have the Exact cable listed above for sale, brand new, never opened. The Adapter is also included to work on older cars.

$75shipped

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Here's the thing, I can code the NFRM module, in my case i get a 35kb .trc file...I managed to turn off my orange side markers (SIDEMARKER_US_NFRM it was called) and I also managed to get the fob to close the windows/mirrors/sunroof, so that works

what I don't understand is why in this .TRC file for the NFRM module I don't see the commands for LED tail light retrofit which turn off the bulb errors...its the following which I don't get in my NFRM .TRC file:

CC_MELD_BFD_BL,
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BFD_L,
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BFD_R

I do see the following similar and tried setting them to nicht_aktiv but it didn't help:

CC_MELDUNG_BFD
CC_MELDUNG_BL

Funny thing is I do end up seeing the above required 3 commands from the spreadsheet when I read the entire CAS ecu (229kb .TRC file) but not when I go to the NFRM ecu (35kb .TRC file)...

Basically the lights work but the blinkers are too fast and the lightbulb error in the dash on startup which goes away and isn't annoying..

So, finally figured it out...I had to deactivate (nicht_aktiv) all the warm/cold bulb checks in the NFRM ecu...once that was done, bulb errors were gone and the fast blinking of the turn signals was gone as well...

The other thing I had to do to complete the conversion was follow the instructions on wire pin arrangement as described here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473711

Once wiring and bulb error coding were completed the lights work without any issues sweeeeeeet!

P.S. It would really help if the google spreadsheet indicated that the warm/cold bulb checks should also be coded to nicht_aktiv if you're doing the LCI rear tails retrofit to make it easier for ppl going forward

[Coding@DetailAddict]

you coded out ALL the warm and cold checks?! or just the ones associated to the rear lights? No reason to turn them ALL off.

[DESI4life10]

Originally Posted by Grant@DetailAddict

you coded out ALL the warm and cold checks?! or just the ones associated to the rear lights? No reason to turn them ALL off.

+1...only code of the lights that are giving you problem.